Jeronimo

Thank you Judd. I made the mistake of thinking that the only system MIJ advertise for the Legacy would fit. Bought it and found of course that it is nowhere near a fit. It's going back. I would agree that a SS system from MIJ would be very nice but my 14 year old workhorse would be way over-lived by a very expensive custom made system. It would simply be TOO expensive. I have eventually found a replacement CS system which should last the remaining life of my car - I hope. This time I've been careful to ensure parts are for the Estate with twin outlets.

Can anyone tell me please, is there a difference and if so what, in the exhaust systems for saloon and estate models? I'm talking an Estate, 2.5l petrol version: variant B9 / SG0 127kW. I have to get a replacement for mine from the front, catalyst section, back. Could be single or double. Thanks, Jerry

We have a 2009 Legacy estate. Had it for 8 years now and it's done 75,000 reliable miles. Recently the warm air outlet to the drivers side is not blowing with any mode on the heating settings. All the other outlets work OK and the fan runs at the variable speed settings. Any guide to fixing this will be appreciated, thank you. Jerry

Can anyone advise me or point me to a video on how to remove the trim from inside the rear door on my estate. SWMBO complained that the cloth covering was coming off so, as she was using the car for Scouts camp all w/e, I just pulled it right off, thinking that removal of the panel would be easy. Ha!! Prising with a flat screwdriver produced unwanted sounds so maybe I need to remove the whole trim panel so I can get the small (previously) cloth covered panel off to re-cover it. I'm not going to try gluing it back on overhead. I will use 3M77 spray adhesive with it off the car so's I can get it straight. Thanks.

Complete dismantlement success Above EDIT comment does not entirely do me justice. There is a front cover hook accessible through the small hole but it is for the lower (black) cover. To remove the lower front cover release the LH hook, then the middle hook through the small hole in the motors frame. Pull the outer end away from the main body and the final hook can just be seen near to the folding motor mount. Poke with a screwdriver or other thin rod to release this and the cover comes off. To finish complete dismantling it is necessary to release the wires from the plug body. Carefully record (photograph/drawing) location of each colour wire. Remove 2 clips/retainers one each side of the plug: I think that just about covers it. Only hope I can remember how to put it all together once the weather improves so I can remove the broken mirror.

The above linked post helped me to start with but not with my need for further dismantling which I achieved after much head scratching There's lots of video's on how to change the mirror glass on u-tube but none go further for my specific 2009 Legacy in how to take the mirror assembly apart so that the front cover can be painted if desired. Well, I got it apart. For this model, the glass can be removed either by getting it out of the plastic holder as described in videos or by fetching the black holder from the white mount: The mount (and plate) may then be removed by extracting the central screw. To further dismantle it is necessary to remove the front coloured cover (which is what I want off to re-paint). This is held by hooks through the main body part, 3 easily accessible at the outer end, 2 are hidden below the adjusting motor mount and 1, nearest the inside end is completely inaccessible, but no matter. First, prise away the 3 accessible hooks, pushing the cover forwards as much as possible. To get to the 2 under the adjusting motor mount, remove 4 screws holding it on. The hooks are accessible with difficulty through the 2 holes. I have an LED on cable powered by a LiPo battery which gives me light in tight spaces. Such is necessary (helpful) in finding these hooks and I used the long strong hex keys to prise off these 2 hooks. The front cover can then be removed, pulling the loose end round, releasing the final hook. Screws securing the main frame and the indicator repeater are now accessible from the front. However, so far, I have been unable to remove the main frame completely. I hope this helps others. Jerry EDIT: I just realised some of this is rubbish. There's actually 4 accessible hooks, 3 at the outer end and 1 at the top. There is only 1 hidden under the main frame accessible through the larger hole on the left. Releasing this allows the cover to be removed. Anno Domini strikes again

I found this post on another Subaru forum (hope you don't mind) which helps some: http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/122966-how-to-remove-disassemble-a-wing-mirror/ I will report back on success or otherwise.

Good day, good folks of the Legacy club I have a 2 car (side by side) car port with brick walls so my Subi goes in forwards and 'tother car backwards. I fold in the mirrors on the Subi and get it as close to the wall as possible - not right up against as there's some wood stored at the base but fairly close to give good access into drivers doors to both cars. SWMBO reversed out the other day folding out the mirrors on the way and dragging the one along the wall and busting it up Well, its a folding/heated mirror and I found a s/h one from similar age Subi on fleabay for 50 squid delivered. However, it's the wrong colour for my car and I don't know if it's a folder or not. So I want to take it apart so's I can respray the front, maybe to fit to replace the broken bits on the original unit. The mirror glass is OK there. Can anyone advise how to dismantle these mirror assemblies or point me to instructions please? Ta very much. Jerry

I could do with a new exhaust system for my Legacy. Although it is heavily rusted it seems very solid though I am told it is blowing at the bifurcation - the separation of the single pipe to 2 going to the 2 silencers. I looked for recommendation on here and found the Gerlach system (on eBay) described as complete and suitable for the 2009 Legacy Estate, 127kW edition - which according to my registration document is what I have. I asked for confirmation and was then told this system does not fit and was offered just the 2 rear boxes - no use to me. I then looked at an alternative supply offered on eBay. Their advert also said it is suitable for my car but when I run their online check - says it is not suitable. Any ideas where to go for a suitable exhaust system? 2009 Subaru Legacy Estate, Variant BP9, Version 5G0 Capacity 2457cc Max power 127kW VIN = JF1BP9KL58G070973 Engine No. - 449230 Advice appreciated, thanks, Jerry

Well, it weren't knocking at the back, it was the front. One of the recently fitted roll bar droplinks had come loose. A quarter turn locked it up again and knock was gone.

Ah! The top mount, could be, I have not inspected that closely. Thanks.

Long time and no need to consult the forum but now I do. Legacy 2.5 Auto, 59 reg and 69k miles. Regularly serviced and MoT'd though I have only done about 9k miles since purchase Jan 2014. Recently it started producing a KNOCK whilst moving. This can happen when just about rolling forward and/or at any speed. It hardly seems related to any particular bumps in the road. I can go over several and no KNOCK, then something gentle and it goes KNOCK! I've had it on a ramp several times. I have replaced antiroll bar drop links front and back. I can see no loose connections of subframes to body, no broken road spring, nothing which feels loose or with play. It is not a transmission fault. Any ideas?? Could it be a shock absorber internal problem? There's nothing loose in the boot. Thanks for any advices. Jerry

The eBay item is the retractable cover. I have that but it stops short of the tailgate and there's a gap which should be filled by a removable panel plugs into a slot in the tailgate. Thanks for looking Gambit. And thanks for the Coventry Dealer number, they are just about my closest. (no Thumbs-up smilie available ) Ta, Jerry

As it says. This is for a 2009 model. WHY? My Legacy came without the panel which fits into a slot inside the tailgate to close off the view behind the load cover. Without this, boot contents can be seen through the rear window. The dealer (not Subaru) I got the car from did not help me find this. I won't call a Subaru dealer on principle, as they all use 0844 numbers Jerry

Gambit's original advice to me for my OP was of course correct, as is the answer in post #14. Took me a while to cotton on to the key position required for a single press of the key button to be effective in turning off the immobiliser. Thanks Gambit.

deleted because the quote button would not work :(

Thanks Gambit. That will be very useful. Just as a reminder, my car is a 59 reg Legacy 2.5 SE Wagon. Jerry

And is it a DVLA scam to get extra revenue? When selling the car, will we only get back tax to subsequent whole months whilst the new owner pays again from the 1st of same month? Clearly the refund should be for all the days paid for.

Cheers Gambit. There is only 1 button on my keys which turns the alarm on and off. So pressing it once does not do the business. Obviously I don't want to disable the immobiliser completely. I don't understand why it needs to be active if the key is in the ignition and has been present when the alarm is turned off. If the immobiliser has to be activated sometime after the alarm is off, a more sensible delay period would be acceptable. The question is - can the delay be lengthened? Jerry

This feature is RIDICULOUS I just went to the shops, got a few groceries, opened the back door to put 'em on the seat, get in the front, belt on, key in, turn and no go :(. One press of the button, turn the key and the alarm goes off. It is really stupid!! and I'm not impressed by this. To have to lock and unlock the car in such a short time.................... AAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGH!!

Well, I've had my legacy for a couple of weeks now and one aspect is driving me mad The immobiliser. What is the point of having this activate, i.e. prevent the engine starting because I have not done so within a ridiculously short time (<30sec) of unlocking the car??? :( Taking the key out of the ign and putting it back in does nothing. The car locks have to be activated and opened again before the car will start. It seems to me that having the key in the ignition, or even just in the car (as it communicates through the transponder system) should be enough. Anyone know if there is a way to sort this? At least lengthen the time between unlocking and starting the engine?? Cheers, Jerry.

B**MER :( Looks like there are no FSDs for the Legacy. Guess I will have to learn to live with the ride too.

I suspect I will learn to live with wind noise. I don't think it is that bad, but will see. Fitting Koni FSD's is a real possibility, if they are available for this car. It took until I'd done 90k miles in the Alfa before I bit the bullet (needed new suspension arms anyway) to do the business. The transformation was marked and obvious and the ride (at 147k) is still fine. I will keep you's posted, but don't hold your breath

Well you guys helped as far as I'm concerned, thank you v much. It's a good car for what I need, looks and goes OK and should be reliable. As I do less mileage these days a newer diesel was out and the only alternative I could think of (other than another Alfa) was a Skoda Octavia FRS ........... but there ain't one around at this time. No reflection on the forum but you possibly won't see too much of me now, unless I have any problem.

The deed is done and I will collect the car 30th Dec. :)