Tidgy

Is it mapped for the 99 fuel?

Prob need to drop the oil and see what it looks like, after that compression/leakdown test, then go from there. doesn't sound promising though.

could try importcarparts maybe

I believe it will be drive by wire rather than cable so could be the throttle position sensor, def need to get it looked at.

its just a cable so it's either snapped or come off at one of the ends. Does it open with the key?

By revs climbing do you mean the clutch is slipping? or throttle sticking?

Never even heard of them before tbh, loooking at companies house they hyave been around since 2013, but thats about it.

Tbh you'd be better and spend less just buying a wrx, its not just the engine thats different.

tbh i have no idea, they dont come up very often so its a bit of an unknown

No problem at all to ask, hopefully you have some luck finding one 😄

tbh it really depends on how long its been sat and how lucky you are, it's gonna be step by step to check what state things are in before moving on. Full fluid change (coolant, engine, oil, gearbox, diff etc etc), fuel in the tank will need draining and replacing, fuel pump in the tank, fuel filter in the engine bay, all belts, tyres (as im assuming multiple years) all filters, prob spark plugs as well. I would sugest first making sure you can hand crank the engine so you know its not siezed, Prob then worth doing the engine oil and filter, collant, fuel and fuel filter then see if you can get oil pressure before then trying to fire it up. If you cant get it started could mean there are more serious issues at which point your then into is it worth pulling the engine etc etc. A bad example could be if it was stored without proper coolant and just had water in it. If so it could well have frozen and split the heater matrix, lifted the head etc etc Additionaly a leakdown test would be a good idea. !!!!!!!!!Make sure you crank the engine over without letting it start to get a good flow and good pressure before trying to start it!!!!!!!. After that its prob a case of seeing what happens, you may find lots of dfferent fluid leaks (be very carefull of anything that might catch fire!!!!!!!!!!!!!) from withered pipes, failed rubber seals etc etc, all you can really do its see how it goes. If you get to the stage of test driving it, be very carfull of failing brakes and leaking suspension when you drive it. i'd advise very gradual steps.

welcome, the only daft question is the one not asked 😄

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine says on there 🙂

Prices are all over the shop tbh, being a uk turbo as apposed to sti will reduce its value. See if you get any offers close to that and if not and need a sale do the usual of gradualy reducing it till you do.

Welcome Eurocarparts, import car parts and then specialists are your best bet.

Oil drip wont be the headgasket (doesnt show external), so my first port of call would be check where the oils coming from. As far as thump im not sure what you mean, do you mean rod knock? if so then its engine shagged

Walk away, the arches rust from inside out and your prob looking at £1000 a side at least as it sound slike the inner arches are shot if its got up as far as the suspension mounts., Rear subframe is also a big job as you have to drop pretty much the whole rear end, so prob another £500 Simply put, just isnt worth it.

They dont call em styealers for nothing 😉

tbh i wouldn't bother with the cylinder mod, i''ve not had it on any of my cars.

Yikes, not the first and wont be the last 😞

Welcome, whats your plans for it?

chuck your reg into eurocarparts and see what it kicks out.

Short version, yep, will need a full rebuild. Copper fillings in the oil very highly likley means the crank bearings are damaged (could have ring land issues, but untill its stripped you wont know. although ring land failure is common so would be no surprise) As far as what you do its up to you really, a proper reabuild wont be cheap if done properly, If the shell is solid and you plan on keeping the car long term may be worth the cost. Rolling shell of a wrx isnt worth much, maybe 1-2k at best, it's doubtful the cost of a rebuild will increase the value of the car to make it cost effective to rebuild then sell.

tbh i'd just look for a reputable local car transporter.

Never heard of needing to do it, i've always just disconect, replace, reconnected opn all the cars i;ve owned :S