larry
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Hi all, I am in need of an engine and have come across someone selling a long block which consists off a version 7 sti short block and version 4 sti heads. sounds good however there seems to be an irregular tapping sound and the seller has informed me it is the sti heads due to having solid lifters. There is also a receipt of heads being done 2 years ago. Any thoughts?
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Hi Guys I hope you are all well during the pandemic and staying safe 😊 I have a subaru impreza tubro 2000 1999 with some mods. I just wanted to know has anyone done or know if you can swap a 2.5 bottom end onto a 2.0 GC8? If so would it be a straight swap or would you need to change anything? Cheers
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When the indicator flashes mine sometimes remain on for no reason is that another known issue?
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Thank you for responding. The problem is now fixed. The problem was when arming the car it would trigger and begin beeping for 10-15 seconds followed by the car alarm being turned on. It was as if the system was picking up an door open but my car dash told me all of the doors are closed. It was like this for 2 years and I’m no specialist and always used the key to gain entry. In the end it was the bonnet alarm sensor. I simply disconnected it cleaned it and put it back and it began to work. I contacted numerous alarm specialist and they all tried to sell me alarms rather then fixing mine and so I contact a sigma alarm specialist his name is Ian here is his link below https://mobilecaralarms.com/?page_id=10 Very helpful individual didn’t even need to come out to help. Did it over email in a matter of minutes so I rate that. I will see how it goes in the meantime and if any more problems occur I’ll post it.
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Hey guys I hope your well during the pandemic. When I try to alarm my car it always seems to disarm instead of arming. I have tried what the Manual but it does not work does anyone know a specialist who can look at it please. It is an M30 Signa alarm 1999 Subaru turbo. Thanks.
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Oh right good to know. So how do you know what strength spring to have with the turbo they send you? How much BHP Were you running with 1.3 Bar?
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I agree Turbos are not cheap for these cars at all I guess you could call it capitalism lol With the arashi turbo that you tried what was wrong with the actuator? Some of the Kinugawa Turbos have an option to choose from for instance depending upon the bar. 0.3bar, 0.5bar, 0.8bar, 1.0bar, 1.2bar, 1.5 bar etc they will fit the waste gate actuator to your spec, What do you think is best? I knew of people running 400BHP but they have disappeared or else I'd be asking them lol
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Hi Guys so long story short.. I am in the process of getting more power out of my car which is currently on a IHI VF28. I am on a budget so bare with me. I know the billets and garrets etc are quiet pricey so I am looking at alternatives. I know of some guys who have used the ebay TD05 20g Turbos and managed to get 400+Plus after some alterations to fit a 99 subaru and there going strong after 2 years. I think the cost is around £200 for them. You then have the Kinugawa option which are in the £780 Region which produce similar power. I know the general stigma attached to the Chinese Turbo are negative simply because its unbranded and from China so people think cheap. Having said that some people have bought them and their cars are running fine. Does anyone have any first hand knowledge and or Turbo Options?
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They ran them on classic tubro 2000's id imagine they had the 2.0 not the ej207. Agreed it would be more safer but having it rebuilt and maintained I want to ideally see what my standard engine is capable of as people say different things along with their own experiences. Just sourcing a turbo is a bit of a nightmare.
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The car is Maffless so I initially ruled that out but to be on the safe side plugged it in encase it wasn't. I found the problem it was the Map sensor, it was disconnected when I was installing the front mount and I did not put it back in as it slid down and away from sight. It is now plugged in and idling fine which is good. I have not yet driven it as im bleeding the brakes but shall see if it needs a map.
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I have installed a front mount inter-cooler on my99 turbo 2000 and a cone filter. The car is mafless however upon starting its idling and not running properly and putting out white smoke through the exhaust. It is hesitant to rev. What could this potentially be down to? Could it be the dumpy valve? Could it be that it needs a map again? Could it be anything else?
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I have seen some 6 spds on ebay TY856WN4CA here is the link is this all what is needed? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Impreza-STi-6-Speed-Gearbox-Conversion-TY856WN4CA-Genuine-77k-miles-WRX/303556325881?hash=item46ad5df1f9:g:Ky0AAOSw0LteXVVK
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Defo agree with you on the clutch as it began crunching when I changed the box over. But it is always good to change the parts you have mentioned as things wear and age and get damaged etc. Thanks for the advice bro
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Thanks Savage so the 6 speed from a hawk should be able to handle the power of 460bhp?. Tidgy Thanks for the options. I don't know how much a 5 spd can handle as they arnt the same in strength as a 6. Bit of a gamble lol Rebuilding it with a gear kit to costly and lengthy.. 6 speed from an sti im assuming its the hawk eye? seems the best option for power and reliability. Seen some on ebay for around £1500 No engine isnt forged I did rebuild it two years ago. I have seen people run 400BHP on stock engines so im looking to test the water here. I dont abuse my car but give it the occasional sprint here and there whilst ensuring coolant, oil etc is checked.
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Which number on the Chasis TY is for the final drive ratio if you know at the top of your head for the gearbox as it consists of a lot of numbers. So you were running 359hp on a stock 5 speed box? if so its pretty good. If I purchase a 6 speed box what else would i need to complete the system?
