bobert
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Im currently returning my 97 Turbo 2000 complately back to stock (bit of a purist), I recieved the stock exhaust backbox the other day and I'm having second thoughts on replacing it. This is my first turbo scooby so I've never noticed any difference exhausts can make. I'm not interested in the noise, just if there will be any noticable power loss. I've attached a picture of the backbox that came with the car, I don't know if it is genuine STI or not, the box itself looks identical to the stock one but the tip is wider and single exit. Will I notice a difference? Cheers
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Found a broken vaccum tube last night, replaced that and all seems well , going to put on the new TPS tonight then do the ECU reset Check engine light is off but still shows the 3 codes when in diagnostics mode, hopefully they'll go after the reset? Cheers for the help mate
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It was never in a default position as I did an engine swap a couple of months ago and used the new throttle body without a TPS so I adjusted it myself and it ran fine until now. Anyway this is another method of resetting ECU I found, is this what you meant? Classic (JECS) ECU Reset Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature, turn engine off Locate the two ECU connectors, located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green. Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle, then return it to the half-throttle position and hold for a few seconds, and then release Engine Check lamp turns on Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h. ECU is now re-set. At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs. Stop the car and turn off the engine. Disconnect the black and green connectors. Job complete
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Position of the ICV or TPS? The TPS I have been mucking about with for the last couple of days finding a new idle point and it currently sits about 1000-1100rpms.
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After reading a lot of conflicting information on how to reset an ECU I ended up going with the "disconnect battery for 10 minutes, leave key turned for 10 seconds, run at idle for 10 minutes" method. It seemed to think about it for a while but now I have these other two error codes, the TPS has always been a bit of a **** so have a new one coming on friday and going to take out the ICV later to check my serial and get another
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Hi, started having idle issues with my non-turbo classic scoob, basically would start and stall within 10 seconds, threw up MAF error code (23) bought an identical one on eBay (same colour [green], same serial 22680 AA160) however this one is from a WRX - it seems to have fixed that problem but now I'm getting error code 24 and 31 (idle control valve & throttle position sensor), and issues with stalling at low revs. So basically my question is: Do MAF sensors differ between turbo/non-turbo models? These two are exactly the same but I am unsure if these are genuine error codes.
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Well this will give you guys a laugh. I made this post after I bought the car back in October. Since then a bolt snapped in the water pump whilst removing the thermostat, spent a month trying to extract it and god knows how much on tools, given up, taped the thing back together in December and got it to a garage ****.ing tapwater where a pressure test confirmed head gasket. Decided to go for an engine swap which worked out cheaper than the work involved with a head gasket replacement Bought an engine out of an identical subie which ended up being the wrong engine (ej201) (!!!), got another one coming tomorrow (ej20e) which matches up with the vin plate. What a !Removed! mess, 5 months just to get a car on the road I suppose the upside is I've learned a shitton about cars and especially subaru engines
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Hi, have a 97 Impreza non turbo, need the thermostat housing (bottom half and top hald that connects to engine block) but not the thermostat itself. Happy to pay anything reasonable plus postage in mainland UK. Thanks
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Thermostat works, decided to replace the coolant as it looks like a previous owner has used some kind of sealing liquid - little rubbery balls floating around. Rad cap seems ok but might spend a tenner to get a new one anyway - any recommendations? I'll check the header tank once that's all done - am i right in thinking that's the shallow bit on top of the radiator, with the tube that goes into the expansion tank? Sheared a !Removed! bolt when taking the thermostat out that's going to be a pain in the !Removed!
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I check it regularly - it's actually slightly above the max fill line and it hasn't really gone down at all. I've had the car a month now and regularly take it on 20 minute journeys - the amount of smoke coming out I would imagine I would have noticed a drop in levels by now Checking thermostat tonight, radiator cap is rusty on top but seems like the valves in it open/close as they should Cooling system hasn't been pressure tested yet - is there a chance the head gasket could be blown still?
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Non turbo mate, could thermostat be the problem even if it doesn't overheat? Temp gauge never goes above half way. I could take it out and test it anyway. Might replace rad cap too incase its faulty and causing pressure build up
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Cheers for the quick reply :D car isn't decatted, and I'm 100% sure it isn't condensation - theres nothing on startup, only when the engine fully warms up and it is really thick, sweet smelling clouds. It doesn't stop either its like a continuous 'feed' of fluid to burn if you get what I mean
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Hi, I recently bought a non-turbo '97 Impreza privately for relatively cheap. Car is in excellent condition, bodywork and paint is immaculate, all electrics work, very little rust and only a small bit of welding. No MOT issues as of September. It is completely stock However a couple days after buying the car I noticed thick white smoke coming from the exhaust once engine was warmed, getting thicker with revs and a sweet burning smell which must be the coolant. After engine is fully warmed up, steam starts coming out of the rad cap -- I assumed the worst straight away, however, the oil is fine - no milky or off-colour substance at all, so no crossover of fluids there Done block test, coolant has no combustion gases in Engine does not overheat after any time, no bubbling at all in expansion tank? There are no external signs of a coolant leak either, no spotting on the ground at all even when engine running. The only symptoms I am getting is this smoke/steam from exhaust and radiator cap, and the coolant smell. Could there be anything else that could be causing this? Thanks!
