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Need guidance on this project please!


kayzarh
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Just porting this thread over from scoobynet

I went ahead and brought this: 
subaru :D

TO DO LIST

INTERIOR

AIRBAG OR GLOVEBOX
REMOVE OR KEEP ABC CHIP - BUILD UP (IF KEEP REMOVE VAVLE ON ACTUATOR)
BUILD UP STEERING SHROUD + GLOVEBOX
ROOF LINING

EXTERIOR

BRAKES + BUILD UP CALIPERS
PAINT WHEELS
T.CUT+POLLISH
CUT OUT FRONT BUMPER + MOUNT INTERCOOLER (IF FMIC)

ENGINE

CAMBELT - CHECK CAM PULLEYS TORQUED UP (REPLACE WITH NEW CAMBELT)
EXHAUST GASKET TO turbo
WIRING UNDER INLET
WASHER BOTTLE
EXHAUST HEADERS
MAIN ENGINE BOLTS TO SUBFRAME +FLYWHEEL COVER
CHARGE Battery
OIL + FILTER CHANGE

Good news is, it has a type ra gearbox and a exedy clutch which feel amazing (no gearbox play, tight shifts) in it and a **** load of spares, mint interior and literally everything else apart from a alternator pulley.

Has a new cam belt kit installed, timed, and a brand new one to go in once the engine is running.

Day 0:
Brought the car back from manchester, left some parts back in his garage to make another trip on sat/sun in a van.

Day 1:
He had a subaru impreza workshop manuals and he gave me a to-do list with it. took of the front rad and called it a day to do some good planning

Day 2: 04/01/16
Studying the wiring map for the engine from the book, will label them all with masking tape.. going to buy a suitable tool kit; after labelling the plan is to pull off the top of the engine and start with rewiring.

One of the mistake he said he made was wiring the engine all completed, so all the wires would not reach the middle grounding point on the engine and around towards the inter cooler spot..

Ah Also going to look for alternator pulley.

END OF DAY 2: Completely confused by the alternator wiring loom (posted a pic) comparing to my friends gc8 sport, one wire does nothing at all and the other complication is two of the same type of connectors; something seems really screwed up with this wiring loom

DAY 4
Figured out the extra connector (Thanks JOE), torque wrench arrived yday waiting on the spanner set today, still need to organise a van to grab the rest of the parts from the guy in stockport(quoted £150 :S) hes got like 2 bumpers a decatted vortex exhaust system and a load of extra spares!

Gonna upload some car pics now

DAY 5:
finally got all the tools are started poking away at it, been using this as a rough guide.

http://www.scoobynet.com/technical-t...-guide-up.html

Questions:
*Do i have to pull the inlet manifold to wire the main engine loom (to knock sensor, cambelt positon sensor etc)?

*I found a rip in a little hose (spark plug to inletmanifold) what should i do about it, how do i go about replacing it if i need to, dosent seem to come off?

*where do i mark the throttle cable and how do i go about taking it off the manifold

*do i have to take the alternator off to pull the sensors underneath it (connected to the main loom), if not how do i go about disconnecting sensor A/B

DAY 6
Took the alternator half off, did some wiring loom organisation, still have no clue how to remove 2 cables from under the alternator (one which resembles a screw and one which resembles a screw-nut).

As the wiring loom has been jammed under the powersteering pulley thing, im thinking ill just have to pull the inlet manifold off anyways

to do:
*Figure out the wiring loom extra bits
*pull the manifold, rewire, correctly (try to).
*replace the tear piped(told it was a vacum tube from sparkplug 3 to manifold)

DAY 7
its been hectic so far have been really busy and not been able to log; managed to take the loom wiring out and now its getting down to nitty gritty and some progress being made.

if anyone could help label/check over the current label it would be most appreciated (will also make a post in the more specific forum section.)

edit:
Labelled the injector connectors as sparks

Update:
Pulled the inlet off wired her up, connected the purge solenoid (hopefully correctly), broke the tension on the crank pulley without any anticlockwise movement!  checked the cams are all timed and that the pulleys have been replaced (just need to get a new belt on).

ordered Shell helix 5w-40, inlet gaskets, fuschs coolant (amid,phosphate etc free), some blue threadlocker and a troque wrench which odes ft/lbs (2-28nm).

Its a v4 manifold on a v4 head connected to a v6 block. the only thing im unsure about now is:

*Alot of the wiring doesn't match the wiring diagram and some pins are missing HOWEVER this change carries on towards the ECU and thus its a "changed carried forward" so im sort of risking it in a way (really just want to make sure i have the injectors lined up correctly for the firing order; everything else im pretty sure is correct 100%)

*the solenoid system im really unsure about, there is a 3 port valve for manual boost control, which i dont mind using (getting guages etc) but have no idea and cant find documentation to figure it out.

id really appreciate if someone could just check over the changes ive done so far and give me some feedback because this is all thin ice for me.

will take some nice pictures when i can

(just have to pop out and will upload the pictures asap)

IMG_20160104_090852.jpg

IMG-20160102-WA0002.jpg

IMG-20160102-WA0003.jpg

IMG-20160102-WA0004.jpg

IMG-20160102-WA0005.jpg

IMG-20160102-WA0006.jpg

IMG-20160102-WA0007.jpg

download_20151227_201917.jpg

download_20151227_201927.jpg

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Nice jigsaw 😆

I've always taken them to bits before trying to put one together, so credit to you for getting so far fella 👍

The factory vac lines in these motors are pretty complex and tbh most of mine is now in the bin (charcoal canister,purge system and oil breather system)

I've got a few pics of v3/v4 inlet with the oe loom with vac lines attached and a few of a standard v3 bay (I'll chuck em at the bottom of my post)

As for the boost vac lines you can run a single vac line from actuator to turbo outlet then plug /cap any other boost vac lines (that suck) and it should run at "actuated boost" (about 0.5 bar) .which would be safer than letting the ecu or boost controller trying to run high boost untill you at least get the afr checked (preferably dynoed) .

I'm fairly sure the top port (closest to the throttle body when fitted) on the purge valve goes to the top of the throttle body . i think the bottom port goes to the vac hard line that runs under the inlet too the charcoal cannister

89A1514A-orig_zpsb938be6b.jpg

E006D3F8-orig_zpseb10e880.jpg

98B734C7-orig_zpsbd2692e9.jpg

89A1514A-orig_zpsb938be6b.jpg

I've got a few more pics including some of the charcoal cannister but unfortunately im now running a custom phase 1 inlet so can't take any more ,let us know how you get on and if you get her running try to stay off boost until you know its running right [emoji6]

Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

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Nice jigsaw 😆

I've always taken them to bits before trying to put one together, so credit to you for getting so far fella 👍

The factory vac lines in these motors are pretty complex and tbh most of mine is now in the bin (charcoal canister,purge system and oil breather system)

I've got a few pics of v3/v4 inlet with the oe loom with vac lines attached and a few of a standard v3 bay (I'll chuck em at the bottom of my post)

As for the boost vac lines you can run a single vac line from actuator to turbo outlet then plug /cap any other boost vac lines (that suck) and it should run at "actuated boost" (about 0.5 bar) .which would be safer than letting the ecu or boost controller trying to run high boost untill you at least get the afr checked (preferably dynoed) .

I'm fairly sure the top port (closest to the throttle body when fitted) on the purge valve goes to the top of the throttle body . i think the bottom port goes to the vac hard line that runs under the inlet too the charcoal cannister

89A1514A-orig_zpsb938be6b.jpg

E006D3F8-orig_zpseb10e880.jpg

98B734C7-orig_zpsbd2692e9.jpg

89A1514A-orig_zpsb938be6b.jpg

I've got a few more pics including some of the charcoal cannister but unfortunately im now running a custom phase 1 inlet so can't take any more ,let us know how you get on and if you get her running try to stay off boost until you know its running right [emoji6]

Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Thanks so much, that's what I'm worried about; frying her cause of overboost I really can't find any documentation about the boost system that is literally my last obstacle!

Looking to get a remap done as soon as possible

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

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No worries bud[emoji106]

there's a few more random v3/v4 in that photobucket library i dont wanna spam your thread with usless pics but you can click the link and flick through the library to see if any others help .

If you do have a squint v3/v4 phase 1.5 is either standard unpainted inlet or blue

The red custom reverse set up is v1 phase 1 so slightly different [emoji6]

Boost on a v4

top port turbo outlet

Bottom port to "t" piece which 1 end goes to actuator and i think the other goes to a plastic elbow that connects to the underside ofthe big bore flexi intake pipe between maf and the hard pipe that runs under the inlet manifold

Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

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Here's a pic of a v3 boost control bracket

20150531_173820_zpszmewxae5.jpg

The big bore red vacumm in my pic goes to the charcoal canister.

The black plastic elbow at the other end of that goes to a hole under the ribbed pipe that runs between the maf and intake pipe ( under the inlet manifold).

In your pic The bit on the red n black vac line does look like a manual boost valve (as stants said) if it is bin it [emoji6]

The little pipe off the charcoal canister in the last pic is a drain pipe which just pokes into a hole in the chassis leg .

I can't remember off hand if the rest of the vacuum lines are correct for a v3/v4 as it's been 3yrs or so since I owned a standard v3 [emoji4]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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On 03/02/2016 at 8:11 PM, savage bulldogs said:

 

Here's a pic of a v3 boost control bracket

20150531_173820_zpszmewxae5.jpg

The big bore red vacumm in my pic goes to the charcoal canister.

The black plastic elbow at the other end of that goes to a hole under the ribbed pipe that runs between the maf and intake pipe ( under the inlet manifold).

In your pic The bit on the red n black vac line does look like a manual boost valve (as stants said) if it is bin it emoji6.png

The little pipe off the charcoal canister in the last pic is a drain pipe which just pokes into a hole in the chassis leg .

I can't remember off hand if the rest of the vacuum lines are correct for a v3/v4 as it's been 3yrs or so since I owned a standard v3 emoji4.png

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

thanks man this helped a ton

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We're always glad to help out if possible , shame I haven't got the v3 anymore (tin worm r.i.p) otherwise I could take a better pic

Obviously ignore the boost solinoid in that pic, as this was after I fitted the 3 port to my v3 uk . The map sensor and air density sensor are plumped in standard though 😉

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Just found this nut on the gearbox 8d2d34683cc6b5453df240c34df80f08.jpgloose 😭

Does this need a screw in next to it ?af7d28a99f8bacab75f40dde38c6be86.jpg

Does this need a nut under it?

37b0aa0591eccc72d7cb1399c16da424.jpg

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

the nut obviously needs to be nipped up in the first pic .

It needs another bolt in the the subframe in the second pic .

And I can't remember if the steering uj has a "captive" thread so I'd put a nut on it just in case [emoji6]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Just found this nut on the gearbox 8d2d34683cc6b5453df240c34df80f08.jpgloose 😭Does this need a screw in next to it ?af7d28a99f8bacab75f40dde38c6be86.jpg

Does this need a nut under it?

37b0aa0591eccc72d7cb1399c16da424.jpg

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

the nut obviously needs to be nipped up in the first pic .

It needs another bolt in the the subframe in the second pic .

And I can't remember if the steering uj has a "captive" thread so I'd put a nut on it just in case [emoji6]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Savs, gonna be up nice and early tomorrow (6am) going to use old gaskets and get the headers on, mount the rad and then fill some water / change oil filter, redo the boost lines in 1 min, take the ABC chip out and solder wires back and then we are finally gonna crank her !!!!!

The part 2 of the project 😂😂😂

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

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Lol

I've got a box full of bits waiting to be fitted to mine and the only thing stopping me is the weather (so I think you're out of luck there)

But if the weather's good and I'm not plastering, I'm normally doing something scooby at the weekends and would gladly help if you can get it here [emoji6]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Lol

I've got a box full of bits waiting to be fitted to mine and the only thing stopping me is the weather (so I think you're out of luck there)

But if the weather's good and I'm not plastering, I'm normally doing something scooby at the weekends and would gladly help if you can get it here [emoji6]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Haha savs I was yoloing it in the rain today morning, the younger generation are a bit cuckoo [emoji41]

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