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  1. Past hour
  2. Forum just quiet Hopefully wheel bearing, try rocking vehicle left to right and see if noise goes away and note direction you rocking it . also after longer drive feel wheel hubs for heat or use a infra red heat gun if got one . If a manual you can dip clutch and see if noises change speed or stat same to road speed . If is wheel bearing not to big a concern but be sure no other surprises and be sure price reflects faults you find. Hope you buy a nice one, best of luck ...
  3. Yesterday
  4. Wulbert

    Strip Down started

    Impressed with your dedication. That sounds like a hell of a lot of work. Will the manual box mate with the "auto" crankcase housing ? That surprises me, I thought there would be too many different parts to make it feasible. Best of luck.
  5. Tidgy

    2007 STI Limited

    So cars done and i picked it up 😄 Managed 330bhp 360ftlb. Pull really strong all the way throught he rev range 😄 Forgot to pick up the graph so shall get that next time im up lol Turbo is maxed and injectors are at 95% so next step in a few motnhs is prob gonna be swap those out and remap to see what it gets too
  6. Are the journals definitely worn and out of tolerance? As it's fairly common to visually see a ring around the cam journals, from the oil staining and sometimes even a slight build up that can be "flattened off" .
  7. savage bulldogs

    2nd Impreza

    Hi n welcome. It does depend on whether you're after new or 2nd hand parts and where abouts you're based . Most tend to use import car parts for oe subaru parts ,gaskets, bushes ect . Alyn at as performance or mark at lateral performance are normally a good shout for aftermarket or uprated parts . If it's second hand stuff you're after, feel free to post a wanted thread in the for sale /wanted section on here .
  8. Lude-Scoob

    Legacy Parts

    Afternoon all, I picked up a Legacy R estate a couple of weeks ago, got a couple of bits needing done drop links and a wheel bearing nothing major. However what im looking for is the best place to find aftermarket parts nothing major she is going to be the family work horse but will be well looked after. Aim is induction kit, exhaust, window tint and a nice set of wheels. I landed lucky and obtained an induction kit locally brand new so will get that fitted over the weekend some time. Likely wont look to lower the motor so I can still use as intended with the dogs and wee man. Any advise would be appreciated.
  9. Hi Guys and girls I'm new to this forum and thrilled to be here. I could use some help and I know your the people to ask! I'm trying to get hold of an uprated intercooler Y pipe, over the last few days I've been reconditioning my intercooler. Along with this I noticed that the plastic factory pipe is quite restrictive when compared with the factory STI Y Pipe. My car is a 1997 V3 Uk impreza turbo wagon. Some mods nothing too crazy. Will update engine bay pic after slotting my freshly painted and straightened intercooler back in. Any help re finding a STI Y pipe would be much appreciated Thanks
  10. Last week
  11. murfey

    Fourth Scooby

    Good Afternoon All I've had previously 2 x GB270 wagons (loved 'em 😅) and a Forester XT that was mapped & tweeked back in 2004 Currently an owner of an 06 Forester STI that's in the process of having its EJ255 pulled to bits for a rebuild/new turbo/remap (not thru choice 😶) 100k on the car when the turbo died, thought it would be straightforward hahaha! Needing some advice regarding scored cam journals on the EJ255 heads, so i'll post in the relevant section. Cheers
  12. Ian Powis

    CVT Transmission Oil

    Has anyone any experience of changing the CVT Transmission Oil (Outback 2.0D 2013)? Mine would have been one of the first diesel CVTs I think and the service book says the oil doesn't need changing unless the car is subject to ‘Severe Driving Conditions’ . I do about 3-4,000 miles a year towing a caravan so asked Subaru whether this would qualify as severe driving conditions and they said yes and that the CVT transmission oil should be changed every 2 years/24k. It takes about 13 litres and the service book says must be Subaru oil and doesn't even give a specification. My local dealer says that they have never done one and that the oil is only supplied in 20 litre containers at a cost of about £250 and I'd have to buy a whole container because they wouldn't want the balance siting in their inventory. Just wondered whether anyone else had had it done and whether the same conditions applied. Ian Powis
  13. Brack

    New Forester owner

    Cheers mate 🙂
  14. Jay762


    Wotcha and welcome - yes those things pull off too easily - had one go missing off my impreza a few years back
  15. Jay762

    Hello world! Future owner here!

    Wotcha and welcome - looking good!!
  16. Greetings from Glasgow. I'm looking to get back into a Forester (maybe as early as tomorrow!) I used to have a 2006 2.0l petrol and liked it but had to let it go because it could only tow 1.5t. Looking at a 2009 onwards model as I have recently discovered that they can two 2 tonnes. I'm wanting a 2.0l manual, petrol as it seems cheapest to run. Hoping to get good advice here, on-line "Road Tests" are useless "...the Subaru is a very much niche car..." Here's a pic of the old one which I liked a lot:
  17. Boggy

    Winter tyres to clear

    Hi Keith, sorry for delay in getting back to you, the cost of travelling down to you is probably going to be a deal breaker, to be honest I could probably offer £40 but this is because of fuel costs, hope you understand, regards
  18. davidb

    P0409 with new EGR valve

    Evening Thank you MrB, much appreciated No I don't have any sophisticated equipment i'm afraid, just DIY hand tools. I've not been able to bench test anything. Everything you say sounds absolutely right - basically everything is working, just not to the exact level as instructed to open/close by. Notably that on engine shut down the valve doesn't shut completely enough (as measured) , according to the position sensor. The light never comes on when running, it's only set when RPM and MPH both = zero. I cant say that we are experiencing any problems. a bit clattery when cold, and the idle can adjust itself up/down slightly and 'wobble', but only occasionally, and it never feels like stalling - just adjusting itself. In fact everything runs fine, other than the flipping warning light. I should probably invest in an OEM valve. Thanks again
  19. Sigood

    Thoughts.advice please

    Yeah im sure there is plenty over here .Just a language barrier for me and the wife wouldnt necessarily know the translation for a technical part. It can be very frustrating at times. My own fault for not learning the language better. I prefer to spend me money in UK anyway. I wouldnt mind those part numbers if i get one that still has original suspension. Plus the other bits. I see an SG on Autotrader 2006 2,0 xe manual 70k miles ! Needs a new clutch. Only £2200. Up in Holfirth though so unlikely to travel up just to view and potential of finding out he needs more than just a clutch.( Ill be staying with family in Kent)
  20. Just thought I'd throw up a few of the daily driver pride and joy for any Foz fans out there ...
  21. Fozster

    ESL Daughter Board

    Hi Folks, Is anyone running one of these on an SF EJ20? I'm about to manual swap my 2001 Jap S/tb STI and will be wanting to map it as well. No one in Ireland uses Ecutek and i'm too tight to fork out for a syvecs (which would be overkill for what i want anyway!) Cheers
  22. Fozster

    Hi Folks

    Hi All, Greetings from the Emerald Isle ! I've had my JDM Forester St/b STI II for about 2 years now - really loving it!!. Came from the factory as an Auto but I'm about to embark on a 5sp swap and then map it. Currently have a 3" H&S Decat full exhaust, vf28 turbo, walbro fuel pump and a fair few handling modifications so i'm looking forward to getting it more driver focused. I'm sure i'll have a load of questions along the way so thought i'd say hi.
  23. Hi all, my first post, please excuse me from not posting in introductions section firstly. Our battery went flat in Airport car park before Christmas and the system is now asking for a password. We’ve tried the usual obvious ones and today the car is in the what was Subaru dealer we bought the car from, only they are scratching their heads and can’t solve it. It’s a maroon XV and the previous owner was from Broughton, Chester but isn’t listed in telephone directory. The garage think he may have put his own code in, or even one of the other previous owners (it’s had 3). Really fed up now with no stereo and coming close to changing my blooming car! Any suggestions? Thanks in advance peeps x
  24. Tidgy

    6 speed swap hatch

    Should be ok on the 5 speed at that, the hawk 5 speed onwards is alot stronger. I ran 400/420 on a hawk 5 speed for 10k miles no issues.
  25. Broke a wheel and a tire [emoji22] !Removed! space saver wouldn’t fit over the callipers Luckily I had a spare wheel 30miles away at home Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  26. tezmil1

    Crack in windscreen

    I cant have a chip repair as the crack is about 5 inches long 🙁
  27. Tidgy

    Confused dot com

    Have you got a budget in mind?
  28. Big enough issue that they will all do it given enough time . Even revisions of crank and block not resolved it 100% Pattern is just fatigue and generally like one incident like a downshift or something creating a final load that causes crank fail . I had one towed in off of motorway end of last year, down shifted wrong gear and kaboom, What a mess that was, both block halves damaged around broken journal, valve bent on one cylinder as obviously one side of crank is no longer attached to cambelt lol . Generally they never worth rebuild and design fault not fixable even if rebuild with newest revision crank, boxer design also reduces machine work can do to block main bearing wells. Used engine hold silly money and obviously have same design fault, best way forward is using early 2011 and swapping parts so common rail and dpf etc match your cars electronic modules . The diesel was absolute disaster and pretty much writes your car off, new crank costs us just under 500 and all parts/materials to rebuild is between 1400 and 2k, add to that labour for removal, strip, machine shop, rebuild, refit and test and you got a silly bill. desirable used engines are 2 to 3K . I can buy super clean low mileage diesel subarus with crank failure all day long for about twice scrap value, nobody wants them and not many owners want or can afford cough up cash to put it back on the road ...
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