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Cat 1 Alarm


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Hi,

 
I wonder if anyone on the forum can help me with a problem I'm having with my 2004 Forester
 
It has a Category 1 alarm installed with the keypad in the pull-out tray near the bonnet release.
 
I only use the car to transport my dogs about or when the weather is bad, and so I never lock it as I may not use it for a couple of weeks and the Battery flattens.
 
Unfortunately, as of last weekend the alarm will trigger for no-reason. The alarm should not even be on, as it's unlocked, and even depressing the remote will not turn it off. In fact the only way to stop it is to disconnect the Battery.
 
I've tried all the suggestions I can find including putting the alarm into valet mode, but within 10 minutes it triggers again.
 
I'm at my wits end with the thing and have to leave the Battery disconnected until I want to use the car.
 
Is there anyway I can disconnect the alarm, even if it's only while the car is parked until I need to use it again, as I live out in the sticks and never lock it.
 
Can I reset it at all, or disconnect it permenantly?
 
Many thanks,
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I'm going to attach the Sigma manual which I use - it may give you some ideas. If your alarm sounds when it shouldn't the alarm's own Battery (9v) may be u/s. Its Battery is integral to the alarm horn, probably situated beneath the plastic panel around the wipers. Alternately, one of the door contacts may be u/s.

 

 

 

Subaru sigma_m30_manual.pdf

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Hi Greenmamba,

Many thanks, for the manual, but I managed to find my copy before posting and there is nothing in there that covers my problem - the fault it covers is when the alarm sounds without a problem and the car is locked and armed. My alarm goes off when unlocked and unarmed for no-apparent reason. 

Is it easy to get to the Battery?

Can I just disconnect the damn thing?

Thanks again.

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The alarm horn on my OB is under the wiper cowl which is the black plastic running across from side to side visible with the bonnet open. Take the wipers fittings off the splines, then find numerous clips holding the cowl in place. The horn should be visible underneath. Bit fiddly but not too hard. You Foz may/should be similar. When I did mine, the horn mounting bolts were rusted, as were the two bolts holding the horn together. I had to drill mine out. After that, open the case and you should see a rechargeable 9v Battery.

Before doing that, I'd suggest checking all door contacts, including bonnet and hatch that they are "telling" the alarm a closed signal. Also, I think the interior movement sensor can be adjusted for sensitivity.

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Thanks for the info.

I checked the contacts on the door and bonnet and they click in/out OK - non on the tail.

Do you think that a dead Battery is causing the problem?

I'll have a go at reaching it when it's a tad warmer. Tried today, but 

it's the feeling in my fingers after 5 minutes.

Thanks again.

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The tailgate must have a contact, probably it's integral with the lock mechanism (no separate rubber-booted switch). Otherwise, that's a weak point in the alarm's perimeter defence.

Note before you take the cowl apart - I cannot say with full confidence that the alarm Battery is the cause of your problem, it's just something I would try. The 9v Battery is, after all 12 years old. If you do investigate this far, at least you'd have access to the alarm horn wiring for physical permanent disconnection if that's what you eventually decide.

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Thanks Greenmamba,

I understand, but worth a try anyway. I'll check the tailgate again as that's always been a problem lock - sometimes it unlocks and sometimes it doesn't.

Gregolasos - it is an old Battery and has run flat before, although it didn't set the alarm off that time. May be a combination of this and the alarm Battery going flat as well. I'll try it before taking the cowel apart.

Thanks guys.

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Thanks Greenmamba, I'll remove the siren when my fingers have thawed out!

Stants - you need to remove the Wiper Blades, remember to mark their position, then there are 4 push dowels (2 either side) which need to be levered out. Then you need to go to the engine side of the cowl and gently begin to lever it up as it snaps into position. It's in 3 parts - 2 end caps and the large centre piece.

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