savage bulldogs

V7 wrx sti type uk engine refresh

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It's already been ecutek remapped to 330hp /340hp ish by bob rawl on the road  , so I've set up actuated boost by by passing the 3 port for during running in.

 

 Soon as the running in is done and the millers cfcs is in , I'll plumb the 3 port back in and take it to clive attowe for a dyno health check 😉

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Looking good buddy, really nice job you've done 😉👍

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Cheers chap ,ive enjoyed doing it so far 😊

Did manage to get it all back together, but it wouldn't fire up 🤔

 

after checking numerous things there was no spark or injector pulse 🤨 

Me being mr over cautious decided to pull the timing belt to re align the belt lines on the pulleys, just to make sure the timing is spot on. 

Yep it was 🙄 and ive now eventually traced the fault to the crank sensor 😶

But only after checking most of the ecu pins ,engine sensors and loom 🙄😂

Sensor should be here friday but I've, Still gotta few bits to put back on and won't get chance to work on it till sunday 😏

So no pics on this post lol 

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So one of the reasons I took this project on to learn a bit about New age scoobs and avcs . After fitting at engine I had a no start fault 😕 I'd checked for fuel and spark and had both 🤔

 

so checked most of the loom , dash and ecu pins , then found that it was only sparking for the first rotation of the engine .... must be timing ?

So pulled the timing belt off again and marks were spot on (still) 🤔

Then noticed the 1 of the crank sprocket pins was bent , so tried to straighten it and it snapped off completely ffs. 

Ordered a new sprocket (£17 from icp) fitted that and refitted the timing belt .....

Fired up and sounded sweet with good oil pressure 😊

So hands up I'd used the crank sprocket teeth to turn the crank into position while setting up the timing marks .

I usually use the flywheel but with having a bad back atm, I hadn't fitted it while the engine was in doors ,as I didn't want the extra weight to carry 🙄

Why put my mistakes in this thread ?

So hopefully if someone has similar symptoms they can check their crank sprocket teeth and fix it sooner than I did lol .

Pic of the gap toothed sprocket and obligatory mad scientist meme 😊

 Can't work out how to upload a vid but guess I'll be too busy running it in to bother doing so now 😂

 

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we only get better through our mistakes :)

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Although I probably wouldn't have been so happy about it a couple of weeks ago ....... I've certainly learned something lol .

 

That the ej205 onwards crank sprocket has a lot more teeth on it than the early classic ones and if one's bent or missing it won't start 😂

A man that never made a mistake probably never made anything worth making 😉

Not that I like to think of it as a mistake..... more of a lesson learned on my newage learning curve 😂

 

But at least it wasn't anything to do with me not knowing how to build a good ej20 and just a minor (albeit hard to find) issue .

Guess I'd better give the bug a rinse and sort some insurance out soon 😊

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Hi Dan,  flux was my first port of call , as the v1 has been insured through you for the past 7 yrs and I've always found you more than helpful as a broker 👍

It seems that because of the Muppet that hit my v1 hasn't admitted liability yet,  the outstanding claim has caused a hike in the premium cost until it's resolved  😕

There's no way I'm paying nearly £900 to insure a 15yr old car with over 20yrs no claims , being the wrong side of 40 and both of us having a clean licences . 

I'll pm you some details just in case you can think of a way I can insure it cheaper , as I want to get it run in asap. 

 

 

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First stage of the running in is done 😊.

This involves heat cycling the engine whilst stationary,  which is basically starting it up , bringing the revs up n down , waiting for the fans to kick in a few times , shutting it off , waiting till the next day (for it to completely cool down) and then repeating the "cycle " again for 4 days .

I left most of the plastics off the engine whilst doing this to make it easier to spot any leaks or issues ,Glad to say it's had none at all . So now the cycling is complete it's time for the first oil and filter change ,to get rid of and metal particles from the honed bores , rings and new bearings ect..

With the fresh running in oil and filter in its ready to hit the road (once I've got some insurance) so i refitted the bay plastics over the weekend .

Before i started and  current pics 

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Well i finally got the insurance sorted , with thanks to Dan at flux and she's booked in for mot this afternoon . 

Fingers crossed it passes first time , then i can continue the running in process .

Gave it a rinse over and although it's come up well , can't wait to give it a clay, machine polish, wax and seal 😊

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Busy day for the bug ...... Maiden voyage went without any issues on the way too and from the mot station and it passed it's mot no problem 😎.

Got home and taxed it , then thought i should really start to get some running in miles done 🤔

so took it too it's first local scooby meet 😊

 

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Had a nice weekend away with the family and decided to take the bug instead of the v1 sti,  to get some running in miles done 😉

 

Pleased to say , it's now done 185 miles without missing a beat or using any fluids 😎 . Although it has 18's and b.c's it was fairly comfy, even 4 up with a boot full of stuff . Certianly feels more refined than my animal v1sti. 

 

Still needs a good polish and wax but it's far too warm for that atm 😊 once I've detailed it, I'll chuck some pics on here though 😉

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1000 miles with no boost 😞

 

i feel your pain 😞

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When using "race tri coated bearings" they bed in much faster , so you only have to worry about the rings and bore burrs left by honing early on during the running in process. 

I did 3 heat cycles,  oil change (gets rid of the honing burrs) ,250 miles at actuated boost low in the rev range then oil change , 250 miles full boost low in the rev range but bringing the revs high without boost . Then proppa oil , map and smiles per miles .

 

1k miles without any boost isn't any good for a boosted engine, as it needs the cylinder pressure to help the rings "bed in " properly 😉

 

But yes ,it's still a pain not being able to use the car to its full potential yet 😕

 

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1 hour ago, savage bulldogs said:

When using "race tri coated bearings" they bed in much faster , so you only have to worry about the rings and bore burrs left by honing early on during the running in process. 

I did 3 heat cycles,  oil change (gets rid of the honing burrs) ,250 miles at actuated boost low in the rev range then oil change , 250 miles full boost low in the rev range but bringing the revs high without boost . Then proppa oil , map and smiles per miles .

 

1k miles without any boost isn't any good for a boosted engine, as it needs the cylinder pressure to help the rings "bed in " properly 😉

 

But yes ,it's still a pain not being able to use the car to its full potential yet 😕

 

Seems to be varying advice on running in depending on who you ask. Scoobyclinic have always advised the same way and they have built hundreds and never had issues with rings not bedding in, they use the same method for every engine they build from race to road, well apart from drag engines, but they only do about 300 miles before they are goosed anyway. I've had 3 built, my dads had one and never had issues with oil bypass (never needed to top up the oil between services) or failure so i highly doubt there is any problem with running 1000 mi'es without boost is an issue. I suspect its  case of procedure for the spec.

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Yes bud there's certainly plenty of opinions out there and definitely different ways needed for different spec 👍

Someone suggested 1k mile with 1 oil change and no boost but that just doesn't make mechanical sense to me .

As i wouldn't want leave all those metal filings in the oil while running in.

Just seems a bit strange not use boost while running in, then slap proppa oil in and just map it at full throttle without it ever seeing boost or wot before 🤔

I'd maybe understand it if its a complete new engine , valves , valve stems ,lash caps ect at the top end . This would mean you'd need a more gradual running in process by slowly bringing up the rpms over time but I'd still like to see more oil changes imo.

Don't get me wrong though chap , i know you trust s.c and many of their satisfied customers do too , after all they've built plenty of engines .

I'm just a enthusiast with a few engineering and mechanical qualifications (that's currently a plasterer by trade) that builds engines on the kitchen table for the love of it 😂

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ive always had,

500 miles on !Removed! mineral oil, no boost

then 500 miles on fully synthetic, no boost

at 1000 miles, oil change to fully synthetic again and map away.

so 2 oil changes in the first 1k

but also heard other people say drive it hard straight away which seems a bit gungho to me

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I wasn't saying s.c did the 1k 1 change no boost method by the way, Just that was a method I'd seen suggested and thought having oil with the initial start up filings in for that long wasn't a good idea 😉

 Along with the build it , thrash it at the other end of the scale too ,which seems far too harsh for a road build imo  .

Dunno what subaru do from new ? 

Bench run to heat cycle , new owner gradually build revs , bit of both with a 1k change ?

But the 1k run in without any boost is generally considered a bit old hat when using new technology tri coated bearings .Not that there's nothing wrong with with old tech , i still run tried n tested apexi f.c in my v1 lol .

  During my research proir to my first build, I'd settled on a "happy medium" method that had been used by numerous qualified and experienced performance engine builders . It also made sense to me from a engineering point of view  .

A combination of heat cycling the engine whilst stationary to remove initial machining burrs and changing the oil , then getting some decent heat into the pistons and rings with actuated (low boost) with low revs . Then finally putting higher boost low down and letting the engine hit higher revs at part throttle. The logic is that the pistons will get much hotter when using boost , causing them to expand and push the rings against the bore walls more . In turn completing the running in ,whilst the running in oil is in for the shorter period . 

 

 although my v1 build hasn't been pushed for power , due to me trying to keep a sub £2k budget for engine , turbo and injectors.  

It's done a proven 38k over 5 yrs without any issues , unfortunately i don't know where the other engines I've built over the years are or how many miles they've done now tbh .

If you asked the same question on a performance engine building forum you'd probably get at least 3 different answers and start the equivalent of a face book subaru page "what oil should i use " thread 😂.

So it's not a wrong or right type discussion ,just a personal preference thing imo 👍

 

 

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9 hours ago, savage bulldogs said:

I wasn't saying s.c did the 1k 1 change no boost method by the way, Just that was a method I'd seen suggested and thought having oil with the initial start up filings in for that long wasn't a good idea 😉

 Along with the build it , thrash it at the other end of the scale too ,which seems far too harsh for a road build imo  .

Dunno what subaru do from new ? 

Bench run to heat cycle , new owner gradually build revs , bit of both with a 1k change ?

But the 1k run in without any boost is generally considered a bit old hat when using new technology tri coated bearings .Not that there's nothing wrong with with old tech , i still run tried n tested apexi f.c in my v1 lol .

  During my research proir to my first build, I'd settled on a "happy medium" method that had been used by numerous qualified and experienced performance engine builders . It also made sense to me from a engineering point of view  .

A combination of heat cycling the engine whilst stationary to remove initial machining burrs and changing the oil , then getting some decent heat into the pistons and rings with actuated (low boost) with low revs . Then finally putting higher boost low down and letting the engine hit higher revs at part throttle. The logic is that the pistons will get much hotter when using boost , causing them to expand and push the rings against the bore walls more . In turn completing the running in ,whilst the running in oil is in for the shorter period . 

 

 although my v1 build hasn't been pushed for power , due to me trying to keep a sub £2k budget for engine , turbo and injectors.  

It's done a proven 38k over 5 yrs without any issues , unfortunately i don't know where the other engines I've built over the years are or how many miles they've done now tbh .

If you asked the same question on a performance engine building forum you'd probably get at least 3 different answers and start the equivalent of a face book subaru page "what oil should i use " thread 😂.

So it's not a wrong or right type discussion ,just a personal preference thing imo 👍

 

 

no no, i know you wern't, was just listing the process out :)

 

I'm not actualy sure what subaru do tbh, might have to do some digging on that.

 

There is an old saying, if it ain't broke don't fix it 😉 although don't think thats the case with subaru engines, its when they break fix em hahahaha

 

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12 hours ago, Tidgy said:

ive always had,

500 miles on !Removed! mineral oil, no boost

then 500 miles on fully synthetic, no boost

at 1000 miles, oil change to fully synthetic again and map away.

so 2 oil changes in the first 1k

but also heard other people say drive it hard straight away which seems a bit gungho to me

The engine tuner method is very similar , they do the fist change for you so it’s 

50 miles 15w-40 mineral 

500 miles mineral again 

1000 miles semi syntetic 

3000 miles fully synthetic 

 

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51 minutes ago, kershaw-330s said:

The engine tuner method is very similar , they do the fist change for you so it’s 

50 miles 15w-40 mineral 

500 miles mineral again 

1000 miles semi syntetic 

3000 miles fully synthetic 

 

so they run 2k miles on semi synth before going full synth? interesting.

 

when do they apply the boost? at 1k?

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cant find any info on subaru running engines from the factory, so i suspect they don't other than running up to temp to checking for leaks and function

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59 minutes ago, Tidgy said:

so they run 2k miles on semi synth before going full synth? interesting.

 

when do they apply the boost? at 1k?

 Yes the 1k oil change is already included in the price , before it goes on the dyno , I swapped out the semi synthetic for fresh at 2k as well . although they don’t specify that , then fully synthetic at 3k changed every 3k , 

the main point that Allan made on the run in sheet is it’s no good driving like miss daisy for 1k then at 1001 miles beating the living daylights out of it , need to slowly increase the load you apply when running her in make sure everything beds in nicely 

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