Wulbert

Exhaust advice; 2010, 2litre petrol N/A

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Back from holiday today and a blowing sound from the driver's side rear box. Have traced it to a coupling where box pipe joins pipe leading to "Y" section. Have made a temp repair but will need replaced soon. 

What is confusing me is that all the exhaust part pictures I can find show the two rear muffler boxes as being fixed to the "Y" pipe by flanged joints. This would make it simple to detach damaged item and replace. However my muffler/silencer boxes seem to be either joined by a socket joint or to be a single structure fixed to the "Y" pipe. It is hard to tell because of all the corrosion on the "joints". 

So, my problem is; can I replace just one muffler box or will I need to buy both boxes  together with the pipe that leads all the way to the shiny flattened muffler. ( I'm not sure where the cats are on this car, seem to be inside the engine bay?) 

Also I'm not sure how easy/successful it will be detaching the rear section of pipe from the flattened muffler will be? The flanged joint ( two bolts) looks a bit rusty but is perhaps normal and straightforward to seperate? I've never done much exhaust work, so a bit uncertain.

I'll get a proper mechanic to do the job but I only want to buy what I need, avoid cheap, nasty parts that will need replaced soon and also consider whether now id the time to go for a stainless system at the back (and if so how much pipework I need to buy). Hopefully some pics will show what I'm  talking about. 

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it flange joints but yours been patched up by chopping joints out .

you could buy standard boxes and pre cut flanges and get a shop make up the existing y section to standard flanges or go custom stainless to good point at y pipe or down to the middle pipe flange for a neater job .
If planning on keeping it long time then stainless good but decent alu/steel tends last 5 to 10 years .
scotland pretty tough on underside of cars though .

Sometimes exhaust shops like powerflow so cheap it daft go steel, all down what services you got local enough ...

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Thanks Mr B. That explains the lack of joints at the back boxes....annoying, but I can see why the previous owner did it. The rest of the pipework seems sound enough. 5 years would do me fine. By then I hope to be done with higher annual mileage and could get myself an older style 2.5T Auto, which would suit me better. ( either that or a 2004 onwards Lexus LS 430 which I have a weird hankering for, God help me) 

All I know of near me are bargain bucket exhaust/tyre places and the big sheds; Kwick Fit etc. I'll need to find someone who can actually problem solve and cut and weld if I want to just buy a couple of back boxes fairly cheap and have them cut in.  Mind you, I'm in Glasgow, must be a few places who specialise in exhaust work. I'll have a look around. Guessing it will be more attractive for them to supply & fit rather than have me supply the parts.

Why can't they just make car exhausts out of silicone rubber?

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Yes most bigger outlets won't be interested in your parts or fabricating .
If the current back boxes good besides pipe you may be able just redo short joint lengths of pipe and have solid and tidy end result butter than previous joint patch effort .

Smaller friendly shop that handy with a mig be way go, is pretty pleasing work for hour or 2 and some straight and bent pipe lengths not expensive .
It really easy do but not easy find many willing, to many shops just want easy bolt on and the profit from marking up sourced parts

If you get new boxes you can buy flange plates to match as bare plates or pre welded to short length of pipe, I used them a lot on older models for cat outlet joint repairs, the older model single rear exhaust and centre pipe so cheap for fairly decent parts it never worth repairs unless something basic like a hanger bracket .
Yours is more pricey for decent enough quality and Y section would up the cost further ...

why they can't make them from more stainless like toyota did for a while . oem exhaust part pricing is ridiculous money ...
Do still see lot of 20year old outbacks and foresters with original exhausts with minor fix, newer is engineered cheaper unfortunately ...
 

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I'm having difficulty finding a replacement exhaust system from the front box backwards.  2.0 Diesel listed as only 2008-13 Forester on parts lists.

Is the diesel exhaust the same as petrol for the mid to rear sections? ( I'm guessing not, it's a turbo, probably different diameter pipe?) 

 

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Some after market cross it to both diesel and petrol and some don't, we had vegaz mufflers before for a petrol .
Y section not as nicely done as the oem effort on any off the shelf aftermarket I seen
I would be inclined repair original if it only the short pipe lengths from rear muffler inlets to the y section .
If you rear muffler boxes pretty rot free tidy and functional and oem parts it real shame to bin that quality level just for the short joiner pipe lengths .

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Thanks Mr B. Mechanic looking at car next week and carrying out an MOT and service too. I shall instruct that I'd like to keep mufflers if they are in decent knick. I'll have a good look at them tomorrow, not sure how to tell if they are OEM.

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generally by quality level of construction and tail pipe style
you possibly see product stamping on them if clean enough, the Y section is original and as been patched assume it just to remove bad flange joints .
 

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Looks like a crack in the pipe on the dodgy one. Just re-examining my original pics. Not yet had a proper poke about. 

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No one wants this job:

"Subaru mate? Ooft !...hard to get parts for them". "Best to replace the whole thing", "Couldn't look at it for 2 weeks". One "Auto Welding Specialist" says "My welder is broken and I can't get it "looked at" for 2 weeks so I'm not doing any welding just now".

 

My local, friendly MOT garage are having a look this afternoon but its not really their type of job.  Maybe I should learn to weld.

 

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My local MOT place is going to make a welded repair to both silencer boxes. Good news for the wallet!

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good news, is pretty easy do decent job if buy preformed bends etc .
No idea how some shops keep trading way they turn away easy work.

Subaru parts are pretty easy and less of a muddle and easier get good parts than lot of french/german cars .
So many garages who simply can't do any real work .

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Yes, funnily enough one garage said; "we can't get Subaru exhausts parts, they are very difficult to get. There is only one place that does them ( a local Subaru main dealer) , they never have them in stock and we have to go and pick the parts up ourselves. Maybe you could source the exhaust and we can fit it?"  This was a "specialist" independent exhaust repairer and fitter, so a bit disheartening. Perhaps they are too busy fitting loud performance exhausts to sporty hatchbacks.

Is there a "rule" that garages can't use Ebay or on-line parts suppliers? I can understand that there is a risk of sub-standard parts, but surely once you track down a good supplier, even on Ebay, you can use them with relative confidence? 

Repair done this morning; just a quick favour to keep me on the road. The other side looks very iffy too and will need done soon. I'd ask my brother to do it (he has a welder) but a bit concerned about welding so close to fuel tank. The back boxes are labelled "N1R" and "N1L", just printed on, not embossed, so maybe not OEM?

Thanks for all the advice. Most useful. IMG_0260.thumb.jpg.cd180c14dae52405e0977e630c71c71d.jpg

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They look original,should see stamped subaru on end near tailpipe ...

they not too much issue welding as long not near piping from tank and no obvious leaks ... never nice knowing all that fuel sitting close though .
I tend use old car heat shields as bit of protection and keep sparks/heat under some control .
For a nice job you take parts off chop and clean them as desired then loose fit and cut your pipe to fit and tack in position then remove to do most of welding off car and leave easy weld for on car or if used a joiner can weld all off car .

We can get parts where ever we like, is some disadvantages with online in terms of time to receive part, and returning it if issues .
Worst issue is ordering parts and you get customer no show,
With local auto factors this no issue as what not used simply picked up next delivery and no charges
Other factor here is lot of times you may get extra parts delivered in case you need them on a job and again this works well via auto factors.

Mainly it boils down garage wanting minimal hassle, easy new part to bolt or clip on and no head work on part research/sourcing, this type usually put big effort into is making bill out or feeding customers a load of fluff 🙂
I buy reasonable amount of parts off eBay and online parts site, handy for cheap and quick alarm keyfob solution, viable used part option and finding oem parts cheap or a preferred quality brand at sensible money, also use the 20% coupon times to stock few fairly common parts as prices so cheap for quality brands that nice work with (lot of factors stock low end brands these days)

 

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