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a few pics of my project so far


savage bulldogs
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Eventually i traced the problem to a 3rd inline alarm fuse hidden behind the center consul [emoji851]
The hovering had dislodged a old scotch blocked connection behind the ecu harness, which had grounded out on the ecu bracket and blown the alarm fuse [emoji55]

At least I'd had a crash course in scooby electrics and have given most of the electrical system a good checking over [emoji41]

With that fixed it started up but ran a bit rough to start with which i assumed was due to the unburnt fuel in the bores .As it soon stopped misfiring and ran fine for 2 weeks .. .. untill the mrs drove it again and it stalled and started running rough ffs .

First guess was that the unburnt fuel had fouled up the plugs as it had been taking a few extra turns to start . New set of platinum tipped heat 7 plugs and it seems to be running fine again [emoji41]

Although i was glad i removed a fair bit of the oe pipework as i only needed to get the washer bottle out of the way to gain access to the coilpacks [emoji6]

93173e4739db20af45fec138bf7b8f0f.jpg3cea435d6b02d320fa44b0b470c370f0.jpg643a87ff9cd1ed1f8e5c155d104cb9a6.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Hi Clive whats involved in the reverse inlet mod.Is there better gains from this
A few people have asked me this lately , so here's my (long winded) opinion [emoji848]

I think most "mainstream tuners" say it's not worth the gains to their customers and i agree . With off the shelf reverse inlets costing over a grand , alternator relocation , intake pipework re direction , materials and labour. it's probably cheaper to buy a bigger turbo and push more boost through it .

I found a tatty second hand phase 1 reverse inlet "kit" for £100 , so it only cost me about £250 including paint and pipework [emoji6]

Can i feel any gains ?

Don't know ,tbh [emoji23]

ive had various map tweeks, mods and even a reshell since building the engine and fitting it to my old v3 uk .

But after a long drive i can now easily keep my hand on the fmic pipework just before the throttle body , without burning my hands like i used too .

Anything that helps lessen heatsoak and gives less bends in less pipework, logically makes sense to me [emoji851][emoji6]



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  • 3 weeks later...
On ‎23‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 9:24 PM, savage bulldogs said:

A few people have asked me this lately , so here's my (long winded) opinion emoji848.png

I think most "mainstream tuners" say it's not worth the gains to their customers and i agree . With off the shelf reverse inlets costing over a grand , alternator relocation , intake pipework re direction , materials and labour. it's probably cheaper to buy a bigger turbo and push more boost through it .

I found a tatty second hand phase 1 reverse inlet "kit" for £100 , so it only cost me about £250 including paint and pipework emoji6.png

Can i feel any gains ?

Don't know ,tbh emoji23.png

ive had various map tweeks, mods and even a reshell since building the engine and fitting it to my old v3 uk .

But after a long drive i can now easily keep my hand on the fmic pipework just before the throttle body , without burning my hands like i used too .

Anything that helps lessen heatsoak and gives less bends in less pipework, logically makes sense to me emoji851.pngemoji6.png



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Hi Clive how was your Christmas.I love your build.I have a small problem with my hazards which you might be able to help me with.My hazards don't work yet my indicators do.Some say its the switch and other say its the hazard relay only I don't no where the hazard switch lives.Apprently its some where near drivers kick panel.Did you ever have any problems with yours

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7 hours ago, savage bulldogs said:

All good thanks, fella emoji41.png

I'll have a squint a bit later for some info on hazzard lights , do you have a multi meter ?

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Yeah I have one in work lol the master techs one lol.I have to change the front mains oil seal as well.some burk has changed the belt but not the seal.Luckily enough the belt is dry

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Sorry for the late reply Rick but after finding out the wheelnuts i bought from d2 uk were not fit for purpose , stripped the thread on 3 outta the first 8 i tried fit [emoji53]

Then my youngest stealing the laptop for 3 days [emoji849] its the first chance ive had to look at my wiring diagrams.

I haven't had any issues with my indicators or hazards , so can't really help from experience or even tell you if the hazzards and indicators run off the same relay / fuse .

I did take these , dunno if they're any good to ya though [emoji848]
c05d6f61d1058c72700e23a2809f6951.jpg09d532bd26a8b4a2b3e3c5a69f6f050f.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well wheelnuts were shockingly bad quality but a full refund (inc return postage) hasn't left me outta pocket , just still got ginger nuts [emoji849]

On a positive note i think i have finally found the fitting i need to fit the parallel fuel lines, billet rails and fpr i bought ages ago 🤞

Due to "clocking" the coldside of the sr40 turbo i didn't have the clearance to use the normal 90° an6 fittings to connect the fuel lines to the billet rails [emoji848] 6a28b1ac52610e003e536f3052063bed.jpg1b2e02c521b450a64fe0f23867627a84.jpg

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By the looks of the 1st pic in my last post , for almost 18months I've been searching for a fuel safe suitable tighter 90° bend[emoji52]

Hopefully this "racinglines" banjo bolt that fits directly into the end of the cdf rails will be the solution , just need better weather to give it a try .

Looks like a well made bit of kit too [emoji41]
dfb9928ca08b36afc86de2fd2ed329aa.jpg2aa84709186c39867c5aea7c6fc70e70.jpg

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Cheers chap , although it doesn't look quite as shiney under the bonnet now ,as it did when i bought the parallel conversion 18 months ago and took that pic [emoji52]

But hey , the engines nearly done 30k since i first built it and only has a very slight weap from the underside of drivers side cam cover .

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  • 3 weeks later...

Promise I won't spam my classic project thread with newage pics , hey i might even start a new project thread to show the bug some love .

For now here's a couple of pics of the v7 wrx sti type uk I've bought off a mate , it's a clean example but unfortunately the previous owner had hidden a mild crank rumble [emoji53]

 

So soon as the weather gets better I'm gonna rebuild the engine and save the 77k bug sti from being broken [emoji41]

 

Just means the v1 sti's parallel fuel rail conversion and respray is going on the back burner ,again [emoji850]41b479a33291a5c456a338b1953d86bb.jpg&key=72443b78ea1c2d4e0e36db01e1563582768348e227edbb6ac38d13937e2174dd1249c8fb64f387a6e2e9688dcabd5292.jpg&key=399ea0349e721fbb09f2a0ff4a76c970b2c24d22d30a4c5752f8329dedc58bff9a029c84425f462e6285ade856814c7b.jpg&key=f9b7c79130dea8ab2756c938a0a14bd82d06f6a828b3e0ed7758d2785dda1cea

 

 

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You need to do all the oily bits then seek the bug to me [emoji23] saves me having to do it

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She'll be for sale once the engines run in , its been on attowes dyno and got the all clear . It will certainly be a good strong lump when its done and its had a new clutch , full cambelt kit and b.c coilovers fitted about 800 miles ago [emoji41]
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Just read through all your build mate and a absolute credit to you. 

Wish i could do it myself with my car and get a runabout for time being whilst i got my hands dirty. 

Want a nice painted engine bay similar to yours along with a 2.1 stroker. 

Cracking work mate, built not bought as the saying goes 

 

 

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Thanks , I've enjoyed building it and i managed to keep it in one piece for most of last year , so have actually enjoyed driving it for a change [emoji4]

 

I do have a caddy for work but the v1sti is my daily driver , so it's sometimes a bit of a panic to get it back together in time for the school run monday [emoji849]

 

It is nice knowing you've built a car but you have no one else to blame when things go wrong . Hopefully i'll get round to re uploading the rest if the pics fookubucket has fubar'd but unfortunately for now the v1sti will take a bit of a back seat until the sti bug lump is rebuilt and run in .

 

 

 

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