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Took the v1sti to it's last meet of the year before she goes into hibernation for the salty winter this year . Was a local f.b group called east coast Japanese, loads of different motors there but mine was the oldest scoob 😊 Only took a few pics but here they are anyways 😉

I painted my wheels Gold as per the Colin McRae given right of every Subaru owner. Its like it was always suppose to be 🙂 BEFORE >>>> AFTER >>>

Started her up for first time since Japshow, fires up first time no probs and love how smooth it runs from cold after sitting for so long

Having to sell my baby because of kids and family life. Should have stayed single. 2L forester xsport. Rare. Custom remap, de cat, straight through exhaust. All work done at Scooby clinic. Fanatsic lads and work. Message me for more info I guess :(

Wotcha and welcome - according to the EBC info the rear caliper is an Akebono with the front being Tokico. EBC full listing https://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/info-brake-parts?make=SUBARU&year=2010&model=Outback&engineSelect=2.5+(165)&engine=2.5&bhp=165 an ebay option for the basic - ultimax option https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-ULTIMAX-REAR-PADS-DP1584-FOR-SUBARU-FORESTER-2-0-2008-2013/121478282541?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190705%26meid%3D0838441340814ab281236185562d7122%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D121478282541&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226

Hi All! just joined the club after owning my first Subaru for 3 months. In my 14 or so years of driving i have never considered a Subaru before but i have to say despite it's shortfalls i LOVE my car! She's called Daphne and is a 2005 Impreza GX Sport in Scooby Blue (don't know the proper name) Yes the bumper is cracked, Yes my drivers window doesnt work and yes my aircon is duff but i honestly don't care and almost think of it as a subaru feature! I own 4 horses, 3 dogs and live in an old farmhouse in the countryside in Devon so the car is constantly in fields, muddy lanes and i honestly don't know why i havent had a scooby before! My plan is to get some aditional lights installed, add a towbar and perhaps (just perhaps) look at getting some kind of sumpguard made up as i would like some piece of mind when in the fields.

Great! Keep me posted. From what I've read so far, the RX isn't that far off the WRX in many respects - I don't mean detailed parts, rather the base car, chassis and mount points so I am hoping it will take WRX parts without too much stress. I was thinking down this route for a simple brake improvement, maybe discs, callipers for a WRX when I look at those. And that rear ARB you mention. 👍

Ive got an IAG Stage 2 Tuff brand new in the box imported from the USA. Stage 2 Tuff Short Block Includes: Case Halves - Brand new Subaru OEM case halves, bored and honed to 99.75mm. Pistons - Manley 99.75mm Platinum Forged Pistons with .210" steel pins Connecting Rods - IAG Spec H-Beam / ARP2000 Rod Bolts. Rod / Main Bearings - ACL or King Race bearings. Crankshaft - Standard New Subaru Nitride Treated 2017+ STI Crankshaft. Case / Main Bolts – Standard FHI Subaru case bolts.

Just a friendly hello - I’m Luke currently based in Aylesbury and a first time proud owner, as of Monday, of a silver Hawkeye WRX. Spent the majority of my life on 2 wheels pushing my luck and now a family and young daughter requires something more ‘sensible’. always admired them and only now can I justify owning and runnning one (‘’it’s AWD and has a big boot with isofix babe of course it’s a grown ups car!’’) 😂 It’s completely standard as if it left the factory and has never been modified as far as I can tell, 59,000 miles and the last owner was a lady who babied it for the last 10 years so I pounced on it immediately. Still pinching myself over it’s condition and service history but I intend to carry her work on and keep it pristine, maybe adding a prodrive exhaust and a mild map or STI wheels in silver to complement it. Loving driving it so far, my second day of ownership a young lady parked up next to mine in her lovely black Hawkeye sti to take pictures of them parked side by side so I can tell already Subaru ownership is a friendly place. Sorry in advance if I can’t be of much help technically with them as it is my first, but i’m Keen to get involved wherever I can 👍🏻 Luke

I spent a long time surfing for information on the latest Outback before buying mine 6 months ago (2yrs old, 24K miles, diesel CVT) so if it helps anyone save some time...... Full disclaimer - I am a typical Subaru fan. From a WRX wagon + Prodrive in '03 (100K of fun for a younger me and it was still going like the clappers when sold), a high-mileage '09 Legacy gen IV diesel (still running and handling well at 180K) to the current Outback. Don't know why I can't escape (I do try others each time I change) - they're never flash, usually slightly behind their time and not cheap. They have, however, never broken down on me (bits have gone wrong, but they always kept running), all handle well, AWD goes anywhere anywhen (for a road car and then some) and I just like the "well engineered" approach they seem to have. However, I will try to be factual (except where stuff if obviously subjective opinion). Best mpg = 47mpg (about 40 miles of clearish country A roads, 60MPH typical speed, fairly steady). Around town mpg = 40mpg (about 50 miles of not too congested or too many junctions, between 30 and 40mph of non-aggressive but non-tortoise-mode driving). Worst mpg = 37mpg (Bucks to Cornwall, "optimistic" motorway speeds (M4, M5) + 60mph A-roads, 4 adults, full boot, two kayaks on roof, howling gales and driving rain, many hills in Cornwall). Current mpg = 41mpg (mixed town, A road and motorway, 3K miles) All mpg as shown by trip computer, but it seems to correlate quite well with at-pump refills. Overall, I'm quite happy with it. IMO - well mannered around town, comfortable on motorways, but most at home on decent country A roads (me too as it happens). For those debating between diesel and petrol - I tried both and the only reason for the petrol (IMO) would have been eco concerns. Personally, I try and avoid city driving, do >15K p.a. and prefer the pulling characteristic of the diesel. Main concern would be the residuals, but I intend running it for a long time (as my other scoobies) so that doesn't worry me too much. The DPF is probably my biggest doubt, but only time will tell. However, the petrol was just as competent and has the bonus of 200Kg extra towing capacity I believe (+ you can't buy diesels new any more). I took some persuading to go automatic - but I'm very happy with the choice now. I thought I'd miss the "fun" of a good gear change, but I don't and in traffic, or even on slower roads, the CVT is, as Ron Weasley might say, "bl---y brilliant". Again, I remain to be convinced of it's durability, but I see no reason to think it will be worse than clutches etc., and I really do prefer it's operation to the VW (and other's) DSG boxes I tried. I do use the paddles, but mostly to engine-brake going down hills - they work really well for that. The whole interaction of the paddles with normal Drive mode has been well thought out, with the box going (smoothly) back to auto once you start to drive again. The changes during hard acceleration (CVT pretends to go through gears) are a good compromise between feel and purist-efficiency, but in more gradual changes of speed, there is no shifting and the whole thing is smooth. Again, I was dubious about this whole thing, but it turns out I love it. I've done some spirited solo driving (OK, it's not a race car, but you can still have a bit of fun in it), as well as some serious people- and load-lugging and all were enjoyable from a driver's point of view (IMO). Downsides so far are: A gearbox sensor went kaput sending the dashboard into Xmas-tree mode (sensors might be a Subaru weakness IMO - one has gone on all of mine at some point - only 3 in 15 years but quite pricey), but the car still drove OK. It was fixed under warranty and no more problems (8K miles later), but there was a wait as the part had to be got from Scandinavia somewhere. There was a dashboard rattle that was fixed under warranty with no problem. There is now a rattle from a door/somewhere which they're going to sort out at the next service in another month (my preference not theirs). I bought mine through a Subaru dealer because I've been using them for 15 years now and always get excellent support and service. They're not the cheapest, but they know a lot about the cars, always do an excellent job and are happy to find ways to reduce costs where possible (3rd party parts etc.). I get no kickbacks and have no affiliation to them, but if anyone's interested, I can recommend Adams Subaru in Aylesbury, Bucks. Final, opinionated summary - I have taken it to many out-of -way mountain passes, etc. and still drive home by the weirdest routes I can think of whenever possible, grinning manically at inappropriate moments. It's not sporty-fast, it's not luxuriously quiet or the last word in cabin-chic, but it's very comfortable, feels enormous inside with well-sorted normal-car handling and generally gives the impression that it's gonna just go where you point it regardless of terrain, weather or anything else. This is of course, not literally true but I feel it encouraging me to find that out which is probably a really bad thing. Overall, I'm very happy with mine, and I'm looking forward to some inclement weather 🙂

Wotch and welcome - seems like some straight forward issues to resolve - keep us posted. I get a lot of my parts from ICP https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/

Recently purchased a 2004 Forester x Auto with only 30,600 genuine miles , a few minor scuffs here and there but like driving a new car , walked into a bargain !!

4 weeks in, have restored all the suspension, major service all advisory defects now done, 4 new tyres (done away with the cheap rubber which was on), finally around £1200 later, scooby is perfect and I am happy. next up 2 more minor changes am going to make, am looking into having the headlights restored and then finally last but no least, am booking in for full restoration of the wheels and painted gold.

Agreed, and my size 11 work boots would customise a scrotes backside quite well.

Yeah it was a baby boxer porka , so i wouldn't have picked on him but he started it by tailgating me through the 30 limits lol . I have had a play with a old skool 911 turbo , that couldn't keep up either but mine is running 359.9 hp and only weighs about 1200kg 😉

Hi all, I purchased Terzo 327 about a year ago as I had always dreamed of owning an Impreza as a boy. I currently have her off the road and am undertaking some major work to restore it to its former glory. If anyone has any past history of the car please share it with me and I will be putting up progress pictures as I go. Thanks

Nice scooby btw, was the Porsche a boxer by chance, boxers a joke, but tbh any Porsche with GT at the end of the name, 911 GT, Carrera GT, then the Porsche is no joke you would be facing a real supercar.

Been cleaning up my spare engine and inspecting it

So the other day I had an impulse buy on the eBay, think a lot of us have experienced that 😅. Long story short I over boosted in 5th flat out and suspect I may have lifted a head and pressurised the cooling system it's very mild. So I cut the stat out and have been collecting parts for a head rebuild. How ever I found a running engine on eBay from a v1 auto with 70k ish miles. It was too cheep to ignore even for parts, so the plan is to drop it in and do a proper rebuild on mine when I take it out. I got it for £150 the starting bid. Didn't appear to be listed well and it was a young mans and it was getting in the way so it was sold via what I believe to be his parents eBay. It came with the engine stand, 5lts mobile 1, both manifolds, pas pump, altinator, new ngk plat 7s and a new upppipe.

Old thread i know, but times have moved on in the rustproofing world, and this last winter and the amount of salt used will have taken its toll, if you haven't been under your car yet since the winter you might be in for a shock when you do. I had a brand new Hilux professionally rustproofed and whilst it was a decent enough job it was nothing to write home about considering it was over £400, i thought then and know now that i can do a better job myself. I have rustproofed cars before with good old Waxoyl, but its such a filthy horrid job, what with having to thin the stuff down and heat it up on the cooker to get it to flow, plus the inevitable splashes in the kitchen you can soon get in trouble with the boss. I'd heard of but seldom used Dinitrol, but i did read about Bilt Hamber's rustproofing products, and on one forum a chap had tested various sheets of unpainted steel with the various maker's products, and after subjecting the panels to a good salt bathing periodically left them out in the open to see how they fared. The BH treated panels were far less rusty than the others, the worse of which you might as well have not bothered coating at all. So, up to now i've treated 4 vehicles with Bilt Hamber's products, from their rust destroyer/converters and zinc spray paints through to their superb underbody and cavity waxes, i alos use their wax polishes and car and wheel washing products, finished rustproofing the Mrs' Forester this last Sunday. Where BH win hands down on the rustproofing products is the large aerosols and the simple but very effective probes for cavity wax application, over the 4 cars treatments i've never had one single blockage, which will be music to the ears of any users of previous generation products where you spent half the time unblocking the pipes and wiping up spillages. BH is not cheap stuff, but IMHO the quality plus ease of use and far less wastage when compared to the previous stuff, makes it no more expensive in the long run, and the smell doesn't last for more than a few days after treatement. Typically you will spend around £130/150 on aerosol waxes and zinc paint to treat a Subaru well, maybe a little more to do a thorough job of an Outback sized car, roughly £220/250 of product to do a Landcruiser well, that's coating the ladder chassis fully inside and out as well as cavities and the whole of the underbody and inside all doors etc. For a Forester sized car i suggest 4 to 6 750ml cans of harder underbody wax, 2 or 3 cans of softer setting cavity wax and maybe a couple of cans of zinc spray paint to coat surface rust on the subframes before you start wax coating, and pick up some really hard chassis paint, i use a two pack which is hard as hell. The most important job is preparation, you must clean the car thoroughly underbody, i have a right angle lance fitting for my high volume pressure washer which is ideal to get the under body clean. Then get each wheel off and the car up in the air....get a large thick polythene sheet and drive the car onto it before you start...and get to work with wire brushes and glass paper, rubbing down all the surface rust on the suspension and subframes, then i sprayed the derusted areas in zinc, then painted them in hard black 2 coat paint the following day, you could allow this to dry then for a week and the following weekend you'll whizz the wax sealing process off in about 3 hours. I poked the cavity wax probes up inside the doors through the drain holes, into the boot, inside the bonnet strengthening frame and inside the wheel arch liners from various points, if you put the near enough meter long probes in as far as they can go and press the trigger you'll hear and feel the spray as it passes along and the fine mist will appear from any holes nearby, a very satisfying sound that is too, also useful those cavity probes for getting the product into the suspension/subframe nooks and cranies. Body box sections you will find various rubber bungs which can be removed so the cavity stuff can go all the way along, refit bungs. I unclipped the kick treads and did the insides of the sills, we have a boot liner in cos its the dog carrier, when the liner comes out for cleaning i shall unclip the trims and feed the probes down into the insides of the wheelarches and inside the rear wings. Don't forget to whip the spare wheel out and see if any damp has got in and been trapped near the rubber centre bung, now is the time to treat it. The underbody wax is obvious how and where to apply. Before waxing though no harm in painting the exhaust in heatproof paint whilst you're there. There you go, you've rustproofed your car as good as or maybe better than the professionals and saved yourself lots of cash, its still going to be a filthy job, so good overalls, latex gloves and preferably goggles (which can be a pain as they steam up) and a breathing mask and a hat of some sort...baby wipes are good for getting drops off your face which you will inevitably collect. Then just give it a good wash underneath every spring, then have a quick poke nose see what needs topping up, half an hour later you're back on the road. I have no association with Bilt Hamber other than as a very satisfied customer, and i get no freebies or discounts other than taking advantage sometimes of buying several tins of product to get the slight bulk discount they offer on their website which anyone can, if you have access to spraying equipment then they sell their products in bulk packs too, so you save even more.

Collected today the dealer transferred my plate without any issues and went through all the controls etc., did a really great job. I drove home best part of 20miles. What a great car, soooooooo pleased. 😀 just a quick photo. It’s going to take a little time to get used to the technology.

Keep it! Its gorgeous and a perfect family car. Just control your right foot Seriously though, if you get rid of it and get a boring slower car just for him you will resent it and this could cause problems. Dont do it unless you think he is right and you agree, find a compromise or middle ground. Someone with a heavy right foot will take it from car to car As everyone else says - Its the perfect car for the job, ticks all the boxes. - Either control your foot or get a milder tune. That Fozzy looks the business, it would be a shame for it to be sold and I dont even own it

I have a pitbull (only 8 months old)which was meant to be a staff when we bought him as a puppy so we had to let the authorities know about him so he is off to court in the next couple of weeks to see if we can keep him but it should be fine as he is the softest dog you will ever meet and do good with my kids looking sorry for himself as he has just had his bits cut off