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yours is a sigma m30 alarm . read the M30 alarm manual linked in my first post . my guess is keyfob faulty, not uncommon have bad button . Ideally want test if it transmitting, mail order keyfob repair services are available for around £30 You can buy keyfobs used off ebay and program them (read manual for programming) Yours should be keyfob built into key, with these you can buy same style used and swap board and program . your keyfob should be like below ! sometimes they get replaced with single button keychain fob . What ever you do don't go to a subaru dealer or you will be missing several hundred quid .... * NOTE while you got one working remote setup a 4 digit password before doing anything else (read manual to see how do it)

Just back from another overnight 'wild' car camp in the Outback. One of the reasons I bought the car was that, with the rear seats down flat, it allows me to stretch my full 6 feet easily (take the rear seats headrests out, reverse them and put them back in again to make a platform for a pillow). Sleeping bag and bedroll - sorted. Also, as most car campers will know, having the rear hatch open for extended periods is often necessary, if only to lounge in the back, with the nose of the car pointing into the wind, and take in the landscape while quaffing a brew. As I'm often stealth camping in areas with no phone signal, I don't want to get stranded with a flat battery. So I tried this Rear Hatch OB Battery Drain Fix and it works! To be fair, I've no idea if my car has had a fix for this known issue (it's still a reported problem on the Gen6 OB so maybe not). So....I'd be grateful if someone could see if it's still an issue with the late Gen5 OB and save me the hassle of being stranded/needing a jump start... 🙂

I've used Clive attowe tuning @ (salthouse rd Norwich) for most of my subaru tuning for around a decade . I know he does do diagnostic tests ,repairs and maintenance too . So he might be able to help , pending on what you need doing ?

@savage bulldogs might know a good place?

Sun load sensor for the temp/aircon.

I've recently had the same issue through the Subaru website trying to get a price quote for an accessory (sump guard) from Ullswater Subaru. That's 3 weeks ago and not even an automatic acknowledgement email. I wonder if it's the Subaru website - the one that forces you to use the online contact form? I've found phoning the dealerships directly better. Regarding servicing, I telephoned half a dozen or so a few months ago, just out of interest for the cost of the first service (1 yr 12,000 miles). Most were asking (for the Outback) around £250, with the exception of the dealership in Alnwick which was £150 (I double checked that too). More recently, I was speaking to a member of staff at the Dales Subaru stand at the Westmorland Show the other week. Seemed very pleasant. Skipton (Barnoldswick) would be a couple of hours for you? About the same for me. The two more locally based Subaru dealerships (Darlington and Penrith) are new franchises and I wonder about lack of Subaru servicing experience. Mine's due a service in December. I usually use an independent garage I trust, but I think I might go Subaru dealership first this time and see what's what. Let us know how you get on Andy.

Rear anti roll bar mounts and drop links plus fuel filler neck and breather pipe

Hello everybody. Well, I just joined the ranks of Subaru ownership. Nothing very exotic I'm afraid, but a 2005 Legacy 2.0i is a start, right? I will doubtless have a lot of stupid questions as I go through and tidy up all the bits that need fixing up. As for me, I'm 44, married, kids, dog etc etc, living in Norfolk. Also into fishing, flying rc planes, birdwatching etc. So that's me and here's the machine. Cheers Matt

A good workhorse for someone - good luck with the sale

I'm pleased for you. Buying a car is probably the second most expensive thing for many of us and the fun is easily drained away when things go wrong or you get mucked around. Post a few pics before you move on... Cheers

Well,I cancelled the formentor I had ordered as I still had no build slot in sight. I replaced it with......a cupra formentor 245 phev that was in stock! Collecting it in a couple of weeks.

I own this lovely little 4WD runabout, but have had it SORNed for the last few years. It is almost complete (missing FL indicator shell), but otherwise it has all its parts. It needs a fair bit of TLC (e.g. bodywork and replacement gaskets) so would make a great restoration project. However, I don't have the time these days to do anything with it so would be happy to sell or collaborate with someone else in its restoration. Okay, so it is not an Impreza or one of the more popular souped-up models, but for driving off-road or back-lanes, it's fantastic fun! If properly restored it will make quite a unique showcase model, simply because it is NOT an Impreza! Anyone interested? Russ

Hello everyone, My name is Tom and I have been interested in Subaru since... since about 10 years old (34 now)! At 15 I started working at a Subaru garage and had the opportunity to get hands-on with plenty of Subarus from the surprisingly fun 3 cylinder Justy (I know it's a Daihatsu really!) all the way up to the Cosworth Impreza which was the last new car that arrived before I left. My first Subaru was sourced through the garage as a desperate measure when my MR2 disastrously failed it's MOT and my Racing Puma was off the road leaving me stranded without a car. A couple of phone calls later I arranged to take delivery of my first (and to this day, my only) brand new car, a 2008 Subaru Impreza R [last photo]. Whilst lacking a real boot and rear wing, and a turbo, my Impreza stayed with me for just under 8 years taking me to all corners of the UK and Europe and is the only car I regret saying goodbye to (I still have that Racing Puma and it's off the road again!). A short few years later I found myself returning to Subaru ownership with my 2017 WRX STI, which I found as a 1 year old car from a garage in Lincolnshire. 3 years of ownership and (until Covid hit) multiple trips around Europe I have every intention of keeping this car as long as, if not longer than my previous Subaru. My car is no garage queen, it is used for literally everything - even three 7 foot railway sleepers hanging out the rear for a 1 hour drive in the rain - and has never skipped a beat! So far I have only one modification which is a Borla cat-back exhaust system from America, it pops and bangs like a rally car but most importantly doesn't drone on the motorways which is perfect for me 🙂 I don't really plan to do much else at the moment. I hope to find a home of Subaru enthusiasts and some answers to those questions I haven't yet searched up! And my old Impreza with many many happy memories:

simply read the linked manual ... Resetting PIN code: If you do not have the current PIN, then follow option A. However if you do not have a working Radio Key, then you will have to use option B and obtain the systems PIN code from Subaru (UK). Your dealer can obtain this for you if you can provide proof of ownership and the alarm systems 16-digit serial number. A.Using a working Radio Key: - Arm and then Disarm the system using a working Radio Key. - Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- *17856*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where wxyz is your new PIN code) - Arm the system with the Radio Key - You should now be able to disarm the system using the new PIN code B. Using the current PIN Code (if a working Radio Key is not available): - Arm and then Disarm the system using the current PIN - Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- **abcd*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where abcd is your current PIN code and wxyz your new PIN code) - You should now be able to arm and disarm the system using the new PIN code When using the keypad always observe the following points: - The PIN number should not be entered too quickly or too slowly - when a digit has been pressed the small LED built into the keypad will illuminate briefly as confirmation and only then should the next digit be entered. - If an incorrect digit is pressed or the delay between entering digits exceeds10 seconds, then the LED above the keypad will flash rapidly and the PIN attempt should be abborted and started again after 30 seconds. - Due to the small size of the keypad some users may find a rubber tipped pencil easier to use. DO NOT use the sharp tip of a ball point pen etc, or press excessively hard on the keypad as this will only damage the membrane and cause a digit to remain pressed, causing a continual incorrect PIN. - The keypad allows only THREE PIN attempts and then will "Lock Up" if an incorrect number is entered a third time. This is a security feature to prevent random PIN attempts disarming the system.

Hi to anyone who may be interested! I have a 1.5" Suspension Lift Kit for sale for a 2009-2013 Mk3 Subaru Forester. I imported it from the States earlier this year but never got time to fit it so would now like to sell it on. It is a complete kit, no welding, cutting or alterations required. It contains Heavy Duty "King" springs, break line extensions and all camber adjustment brackets. You can check out more details at www.getprimitive.com/suspensionliftkits. The kit plus shipping and import duty cost me £800 but I am open to any sensible offer as it's just taking up space in my workshop! Feel free to contact me with an offer or any further questions and I will do my best to answer them. Thank you for taking the time to read this. Jim.

I've not had that happen yet, but at the w/e I had my first in-car warning symbol that eyesight wasn't functioning. I was 'wild' car camping (sleeping in the back) in the Lakes and when I started to drive away on a fresh, dew soaked, cold morning, even though the condensation cleared on the top of the windscreen inside (from my breath), obviously it hadn't cleared sufficiently on the eyesight camera lenses. It only took a couple of miles driving with the a/c on before eyesight started to function. While on this trip, I also used the 'carabiner trick' to fool the car into thinking that the rear hatch was closed (when in truth it was wide open) and so stop the battery drain which can happen when leaving the hatch open ( only needed on auto open/close boot hatches) for long periods, as often required when car camping.

Wotcha and welcome. Feel free to share photos, get stuck in - all friendly on here 🙂

I hope you enjoy the new car.

Welcome!

The shift from 5 years warranty to 3 years took place on 1st January 2021. Subaru warranty

No, that not fair, top price on that for japanese parts (mainly oem) would be £450 . They very easy/quick to do on boxer engine, if do water pump it MUST be a top quality part (japan only) which means original or Aisin . You can get all idlers and tensioners oem for sensible money, dayco belts or Aisin are good, avoid likes of Gates kits and and any euro or chinese parts as all you be doing is spending money to reduce reliability/longevity . you probably could go longer due to minimal mileage on current parts but what was done/replaced and what quality of work and parts ! Cheap parts and fitted poorly and not replacing critical idlers makes it a gamble unless check it or know what level of job done last time . I seen lot of issues from garbage timing belt parts & not replacing idler pulleys, water pumps on non turbos tend last couple decades and couple hundred thousand miles as original FHI made pumps are extremely well made as they knew it critical concern in timing belt design .

a, assume you likely have non standard head unit install . b,just fit battery and you done unless keyfob faulty . c, the alarms are sigma units (M30) installed in UK to comply with euro legislation the keypad you see is to arm/disarm and enter special functions/[rograming options using a 4 pin code . It very worthwhile having a 4 pin code. good news is you can program a new code as long as have a working keyfob. My advice is do so as can become a ballache and serious money waste if neglect the issue and keyfobs fail/lost etc . The real M30 manual is linked below ... https://docs.google.com/document/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=118227053694960733297&resourcekey=0-0xC3ClnW4kKEblPzZbcQag&rtpof=true&sd=true

Hello All. Lusted after an Outback for a while, but the old car kept going on and on. I am a wear them out type of fella. Never had such a new car either, so a double for me. 20 plate Outback. Will check out the old threads first, but hope you don't mind me picking your brains occasionally. Baldchap.

Hi Otto, when I got my Forester e-boxer this March I thought the same about the Sound system. So after a while of trying some of my past usual equaliser settings I let Google do a search on the problem. Soon found on other Subaru forums that I (like you now) thought the sound was crap. One or two suggested forgetting your usual settings and go for somethink like the attached, which now I find quite acceptable. I like all sorts of music from 60s 70s 80s 90s now and Club, all sound OK now. Hope that helps in some way.

Thanks, I thought about them, but will see how it goes with the dealers first to ensure no warranty issues further down the line.

If you did not want to use main stealers look at Sheffield Subaru Services as an alternative

Hi all new to the forum thought I'd share my first impreza. Pretty standard example I think just an aftermarket backbox and the speedline wheels and the wing Before and after a good clean. Looking at changing to crystal headlights if I can source some

Thank you ernieb. Just as I had feared. I was interested to find that there has been a lawsuit against Subaru in the US for faulty Starlink systems. I have dropped a line to Subaru, as 4 years for a system to work and then fail, isnt satisfactory at all.

Unless the unit is defective the most likely problem is that the internal firmware/software is corrupted so that the boot up process is being stalled. The XV I owned was a later model but if it were mine I’d locate the radio fuse and take it out for a while and hope this might clear any internal data. Try a reboot. If that did not clear the issue then download the latest firmware/software onto a USB and see if I could get the unit to reinstall the operating system. (Or SD card not sure how your unit works but the Subaru support page should help you with that) Not much help I’m afraid but it does look essentially like a boot up problem. Sadly most garages in my experience have no knowledge or interest in sorting Head Unit problems. There are specialist companies who sell units and a call to them or a visit might be beneficial. Hope you get it sorted.

Thanks for the replies. I had to phone the dealers direct, still never had a reply to my website enquiries. I have decided to go with Richtoy near the Humber bridge in October and give them a try. They were about £60 cheaper than Sheffield.

OK, in that case I'll be ordering a new boot rather than a whole new driveshaft. Thanks so much!

As Jay describes, its a doddle once the shaft is off, release the split pin holding the CV joint on and everything can come out be cleaned repacked rebooted refitted, easier and cleaner than most designs because (assuming its the roll pin design on the 2.5) you don't have the struggle of forcing the drive shaft out of the gearbox past it's spring circlip resistance. Quite honestly once you have the shaft off it would only be half an hour longer to sort the present problem, and you've saved the cost of a rebuilt shaft.

Our 2003 Outback was the 3.0 litre, and assuming the shafts are the same as the 2.5 they are a doddle to remove and dismantle to reboot and repack with grease. The usual problem is the inner boots sit right over the cats so due to heat perish and split, but unless they've been left for months and dried fully out allowing wear it should be possible to simply repack and reboot them good as new again, they are very well engineered parts. If they are showing wear by rattling on tight lock then simply unclipping boots and repacking with grease may well see them last the car out, i've done this many times and now do this as a matter of course during an intensive service...note the original clips on Subarus take some removing, they are tight and surprisingly strong. Shafts don't need to come out of the final drive, the inner joint is simply push fit onto the output shaft spline and held in place with a roll pin, drive that out with a drift undo the hub nut, drop the bottom ball joint and if i recall the track rod end and the shaft will come straight out, CV joints circlipped to the shaft itself, couple of hours will see them both off and rebuilt. assuming the hub isn't too tight with muck/corrosion to the shaft, but even if this were the case you could in theory remove the hub carrier with shaft in place, awkward but better than destroying the wheel bearings at the same time. Don't know if this helps but it might save you ditching perfectly serviceable shafts for the sake of an extra hlaf hour stripping cleaning and repacking your own OE set.

As a rule of thumb ECU's (at a worst case scenario) will only loose what they've "learned" from the grade fuel you use , any mods and driving style , when left without power . Stock and aftermarket ECU base maps are stored as a "hard copy" and will stay on the ECU indefinitely (even without a power source), unless the ecu memory is damaged I imagine that esl would preload a base map to the chip to suit your version (cams, injector and turbo size) but that's only a guess. So contacting andy Stevens or esl to check would probably be a better option, just to be sure .

Yeah this is what I've seen everywhere 50% of people recommend someone then the other 50% say they are terrible. I've only ever used Northampton motorsport to map my Beetle and they were really good. Do you know if the car/ecu loses memory if I was to send the ecu to esl to fit?

I had a "so called " mapper fit mine into a spare ecu , then fit that into my car on the day . no problem with the esl, just wouldn't want to recommend the mapper but that's another story

I must admit my local main stealer is a bit of a nightmare - A phone call to order parts with a message left and call back commitment just never happens I have to go there in person to get some attention. Unfortunately the aftermarket alternatives seem to be more customer focused

Contact ESL directly for the board, either get them to fit it or do it yourself https://www.enduringsolutions.com/shop/#!/Board-97-8-Optional-discounted-cable-and-software-available/p/33042556/category=0 Try TDR @Warwick for the map

Haha I thought that might be the case that's why I'm trying to pace myself and start slow. I'll check out your build now thanks

Plus one for ICP - they do a rear chassis bolt kit with all the bolts you need. If you are looking at removing the large bushes be aware Subaru do not list a replacement so yo will need to look at an alternative - I used the Whiteline kit. When you come to remove the bushes do this outside as they make a bit of a smell 😁

Best advice don’t look book a test drive, it’s a different experience driving an hybrid car. Reading specs and the like is one thing but it’s a different feeling to drive, try to get at least a couple of hours if you can. My dealer was very good and just gave me the keys and told me when the garage closed. Keep us posted on what you decide as you’ve said the XV is good for the next 13 months but it might be worth testing out something different. Good luck whatever you decide.

Hi n welcome, looks like its had a fair bit done 😎 The mapper has probably held it back a bit to save the 5 speed , as those mods are capable of around 340hp (pending on the spec of the hybrid tdo5) . Only thing I'd say was unnecessary would be the oil cooler at that level of tune , there really only needed for high hp track cars tbh . Pending on model /year (cars original equipment) I'd probably look into upgrading the brakes , to reign in the extra ponies . Tbh 320 to 330 hp is the ideal sweet spot for classic imprezas, makes for a fast road car but retains a certain amount of reliability regarding engine and box limits . Enjoy and get some pics up 😊

Hi Otto Von. I can't answer your question directly, but if you don't find a solution on here, and you've also tried calling a few Subaru dealers, it might also be worth contacting. http://customerrelations@imgroup.co.uk directly (they're responsible for importing Subarus to the UK and managing the dealership franchises, etc.). I've found them to be helpful in the past with some queries I've had.

Brutal!! 😁

Wotcha and welcome!

Looks the business, nice one...

Fitted a spare wheel. I picked up a full size wheel and tyre (same size 18" tyre as my Levorg) for only £40 GBP. It fits on my car and in the wheel well in the boot perfectly. The wheel came of a Mazda 6 Sport. I made a securing clamp out of a piece of threaded rod and a sink plug holder I had in the garage to fix it in.