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Hi all Can't believe I forgot to join the club after spending a fair amount of time on the forum before I got my own. Based in Bucks, you may see her rolling on the road. Shout if you have already, had it for around 6 months. Feel like it's an odd time to join with all that's going on. Better late than ever, stay safe all! Here she is: Impreza 93 WRX Import

Ask most subaru fanatics and they will tell you its pointless unless your going for “big” power amd it really needs mapped in. A good solution is to just throw in a better panel filter that firs the original air box like cosworth/ k&n ect

Hi All, Thought it was time I got a thread going for my car, for all the odd little jobs I do that don't warrant seperate posts. Just to generally document what I do as time goes on. So I bought my 2003 Forester in April last year. It is a 2.0 non turbo that cost me under £1500 to buy, and got an MOT just before I bought it. Had a few jobs to do since, and tinkering here and there. I should say I am a uni student studying Off Highway Automotive Engineering, and this is my first car! So not got the greatest budget at the moment, but I plan on looking after this car and hopefully it will last a while. I hope it will get a few nice parts through the next year as I will be on a placement year working at Prodrive!! Further in the future it may even end up with a different heart when funds allow. Work done so far: When bought to exhaust had already got a replaced back section to pass the MOT, but it didn;t take long for the cat section to cause problems. A lot of rust around a guard meant there were a lot of holes in the pipe. So whilst working at a classic car garage last summer (Wren Classics in Shaftesbury) I was able to buy a new cat section and install it one evening after work, using the 4 post lift. Before Then I had a look at the brakes at some point at Uni. Put some new front brake pads in, as well as doing an engine oil and filter change. Could probably do with some new discs in the not too distant future, but waiting till placement year when money should be more available, and probably go for some slightly upgraded road pads at the same time. The most recent fun, and the reason I found this forum was a failure of my lower control arms. Only one went badly enough I could hear it, but both were very dead when I actually looked at them closely. @Mr B was very helpful showing me some that would fit and so I now have second hand alloy Impreza arms in. Got new ball joints and drop links, but should probably have got new bushes as well. So after a little more research I have bought some strongflex polybushes which I plan to install on Monday, making the most of isolation. Only gone for the standard road replacement strength, not stiffer for now. This car is still my daily driver, gets a lot of miles (About 15000 in the last year) so I want it to still retain the comfort, whilst upgrading things a little here and there. Will be my first time changing things like this so any tips for polybushing the car would be appreciated.

I've been at home since Tuesday at the start of the uk lockdown ,so had a few (to many) beers at home on Friday celebrating my birthday and didn't do anything scooby till sunday 🙄 Although most of the parts have been through the hotwash, there's no such thing as being too clean prior to assembly. My teenage daughter's like to get involved so I put them to work cleaning parts , while I dried them with a heat gun 😊 I trust Pat's work but I will still dry build the mains with plastigauge, to triple check the crank clearances . I also want to check that the longer throw on the 2.5 crank hasn't caused the piston skirts to contact the grub screws ,that I used to delete the oil squirters 😉 At least with everything clean, dried and prepped , I'm ready to do the dry build , if all goes well , I might even get chance to gap the rings too Keep safe people's 👍

This weekend we have gone from thisto this

Hey guys! only just found this site and joined right in! feel free to check out my Instagram and YouTube channel also! #SCOOBYJORDUK in the search looking forward to helping and receiving info from everyone!

Great work mate

hello, i purchased a 2003 uk wrx in the new year. i had a 1993 jdm wrxm in 2002/3 and a sti type r in 2009/10 so decided i would dip my toe in the subaru game again. the car is a sti replica from the outside but doesnt have the power to match. i know i probably should have bought a sti but i just wanted a fast car to take out an odd day. its will spend 95% of its time in the shed parked up. getting into a wrx now they dont feel as quick as memory serves me lol. time has moved on and cars have gotten faster and more torquier ( especialy diesels ) so with that in mind i've decided to remap it. im based in ireland by the way. i have an appointment next month to get the car remapped. not looking huge power just want a few extra ponies and better power delivery really. ive ordered a cosworth panel filter and walhbro 255 fuel pump, car has full ss de cat exhaust . i will get it fully serviced before mapping and the mapper has advised to fit a certain type of spark plugs to use ( cant think of exact ones sorry) he will map it for use on octane boost as we have crap 95 ron petrol here. hopefully i should see 270/280 bhp

Ring compressor turned up 😎 so I cleaned up the bores and mating surfaces of the other block half and fitted the king main bearings in both casings. Coated the bearings with graphgeon paste and lowered the crank in position. Sorted through the big box of gaskets and found the new block o rings and put threebond on the mating surfaces case halves Soaked the threads of the block bolts in oil and torqued the half's together oiled and fitted the pre gapped piston rings to the pistons, coated the bores and fitted the pistons to the rods via the access holes Fitted the splash guard , oil pick and loosely bolted on the sump Still got a fair bit to do but the short block is almost complete, so I finally feel like I'm getting somewhere 😎

measure the parasitic draw with vehicle locked and modules asleep . Ideally want a logging ability meter so can see instances where a module maybe waking up and pulling power . Anything over 60mA is too much, 35mA +- 10mA is more average . Even if drive it more or retains just enough charge to start your battery lifespan going be short due to discharge levels caused while inactive . It certainly a fault, no car would ever be designed have stationary parked current draw flatten a battery in 4 to 5 months let alone days . Your dealers response is ignorant at best, excuse not to get involved in a known difficult to resolve issue at worst ...

Think a couple of forum members have done this before Just keep the spray light as blocking the holes between the fins will interupt air flow a little - however you could argue teh same for an IC with damaged fins 😋

Feel free to create a project thread. IMO your approach seems spot on. Obvously choices there for suspension and chassis stiffening - ARB's etc dependent on how stiff you want it. Brakes will be limited by your wheels so your choice can be quite easily narrowed down based upon that Power, if I remember correctly. Panel filter (Cosworth, K&N, etc), STI top mount intercooler, freer flowing exhaust plus map for the mods will give a small power increase but a nice driveable motor. But if you are looking at the handling, and driving in a more more spirited manner I would consider a sump baffle plate, stronger pick up with the rubber attachment, replace the fuel pump, particularly if it is over 5 - 8 years old. Possibly an oil cooler making sure your petrol and oil are in good supply and at teh right temp for sustained revs with higher corner G

Found that I'd left a few of my better files around the farther in laws ,while working on his old skool 60's mini so progress has been painfully slow setting the ring gaps For those who don't know , you do this by pushing the rings down squarely in the bore with a piston crown and measuring the gap with feelers gauges. Then widen the gap , refit in the bore and measure again ... normally and again and again in my case as I always worry that I'll take too much off and make the gap too big . I also remembered I no longer own a piston ring compressor so had borrowed one of a mate for the last 2 builds , unfortunately he has no spleen and is on the high risk list for the virus So I won't be popping round to see him anytime soon . The one I ordered off ebay this morning was dispatched this afternoon , so hopefully it will get here soon . cleaned plastiguage off the crank and coated the king bearings in graphgen builders paste , then fitted those to the rods and end caps . coated the arp end cap bolts and torqued them down onto the crank Cleaned the bores in one bank and that's sat in a sealed box but will wait until the piston ring compressor is here before before fitting the crank into the block halves . As I don't want the case assembly left open (no pistons in the bores ) for too long ,even in doors and in the dry 😉

Cheers jay, It was a good introduction to the Subaru world with this r sport be sad to see it go but can’t really be running two Impreza, hopefully it will find a good home Now also on eBay: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254550521320 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well today didn't get off to a good start Unfortunately, a bit of miscommunication from me and lack of experience with boxer engines from my engineer, ment the tang hadn't been altered on the center bearing case . I had asked him to do it and even shown him which bearing type needed to be fitted into number 3 main (old centre thrust position) but that didn't get told to the other machinist . This ment he'd used the wrong bearing type in the center main ,when checking everything over after doing the thrust conversion, overbore and hone . Wrong bearing in centre main looks like it fits fine as the bearing tang holds it central. But the thrust type 1, 3 ,5 have the tang in a different position and you can see it pushes the bearing off centre After chatting to him , I decided dust of my old metal working tools to measure up , scribe and file the casings myself to fit the tangs. Luckily enough I still have a few decent needle files ,so took a measurement off no1 main (to the right in the pic) then masked and marked up no3 . It doesn't look perfect but it's not bad and measures up spot on Correct bearing location tang now makes the bearing sit central So that ate up a lot of my time but I did still manage to check for piston skirt to oil squirter delete grub screw contact , plenty of room A quick glance at deck height .... not a wack a mole in sight (pistons don't poke out of the deck face ) And plastigauge the crank mains , which are all mid to high on standard limit I'll start tomorrow by gapping the rings and fitting them to each piston , then clean the crank ,bearings and bores before finally starting to assemble the bottom end

Thanks. Progress will probably be slow as it is just when I can afford things or they need changing. And I don't want to mess with it too much yet, everything seems to be working well (done 140k miles) and I like the reliability I am getting. In the advanced technology department so not racing stuff, but should be a very cool year of work. It probably will get light off road use from time to time. Unlikely to be anything that serious, but keeping comfort and flex should help if I do. Just got to get them changed over now.

A great start to a build thread - Yup @Mr B knows a thing or two about the Fozzie model for sure!! A placement at Prodrive, that sounds really interesting, think you made the right decision with the bushes given your motor could still go offroad etc you have retained flexibility and a degree of comfort 👍

Agreed, seen it on YouTube. The boot space pretty restricted and not a great deal of battery range. The boot space on the pure petrol XV is not great in my opinion, the hybrid version (UK) it is more or less level with the door sill and from what I see of the PHEV it’s much more restricted. When I’d originally talked to the Subaru dealer about the new chassis design he’d indicated that there would be space for batteries in the floor pan but does not seem to have been correct. i guess any amount of battery to recover energy from breaking etc., is worth having but at what cost? I’ve just received a £2k offer from Subaru UK against the purchase of a new XV. Not likely to go for that right now.

Proppa tidy install that mate , nice work Jay 👍

Completed the plumbing on the Surge Tank, couple of redesigns and a few stripped threads - Doing AN6 with ptfe hose is a fiddle, having the vice was a big help otherwise I would have trashed even more fittings than I did in the process Before - Standard Subaru setup Gently bent the hoses apart and got connectors that would go to existing setup Foam / sponge surround was falling apart, may or may not have had something to do with the fuel leak that has happened at some point disintegrating the sponge under the carpet transforming it from yellow to brown (Replacement carpet required as no support for rear passenger feet so carpet will eventually tear). Replaced with rubber gasket and lid replaced holding the connectors in place as well. View from Rear View from Front - Over kill but I added some trim to the metal edge so if there is any movement it wont wear away the black outer coating and expose the steel braided underneath.

Had my tailgate guard fitted to the xv....I already had the official UK dog guard installed,together with a boot protector. Pretty pleased with the combination,keeps the boot nice and clean and the dogs nice and secure. No rattles either.

Cheers @Jay762 have included a picture on here. Has to be 5x100 PCD which is why I think I am struggling so much! i don’t use Facebook so would be great to have an eye on there! hard to gauge an average asking price when you don’t see them anywhere! If I can’t find a set I will find a set of OEM STI wheels instead.

Wotcha and welcome - cant answer the saloon question but you are right about the hatches, a lot of people clearly like spending time in them - there are some lower mileage JDM versions that pop up every now and then with the 2.0 twinscroll setup

On the left is the original one that I took out and on the right is the newer one that I ordered. The newer one doesn’t have the sleeve and the plug in bit is ever so slightly different. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Still keep an eye on this thread Savage 5 years later! Great work Sir. Hope all is well 👍

Am considering the attached. Is anyone able to advise on wheels specs I have selected as to whether they would be correct fitment for Brembos and the best width to fill the arches without arch mods. thank you!

been driving a good old Subaru 2009 with something like 140 000 km in the counter... i loved that car ! manual ride ! very responsive and sporty boxer engine but i had discovered my brake pedal was kinda unresponsive made it to the dealer as sonn as i discovered brake problems it was kind of the visible part of the iceberg but i have a plan to repair that car Now i bought an Impreza 2016 Hatchback Touring trim ! im very satisfied as always with Subaru product. Excellent comfort and habitability. i can discern a concern for detail very admirable. love those boxer engine and AWD Subaru is my ride

Probably everyone knows how difficult it is to find the Impreza "BLOBEYE" Morette headlights. I've been looking for them for a long time, but unfortunately, I didn't find anything suitable. Then I decided, if I can't find it, I'll make it myself! This is how my project came about. The aim of the project - creation of Morette headlights copies using available light modules. And maybe, the headlights what I make, will be interesting to someone else too… Starting point: - Subaru Impreza "BLOBEYE" - the opportunity to borrow original Morette headlamps from a friend - Skills in working with fiberglass I will not go into details, therefore below it will be more pictures and just a little text… Ok, Let's go! 1. Making masks copies: - genuine Morette headlights: - made fiberglass shapes: - first copy of masks ready: - sizes identical to an original (my masks on genuine headlights): to be continued.....

🤣🤣 it's ok mate after you had said that they could be v1 sti wheels i had a wee hunt around the old googley and seen that pic you posted, would have been nice if they had been genuine sti wheels but hey ho 👍

Dropped the cdb , 2.5 crank ,king bearings and pistons off at the engineers. Hopefully he'll fit me in within a fortnight to complete the thrust conversion and 93mm overbore 🤞 Had another parcel turn up yesterday with the arashi upgraded ball bearing 20g core 😊 seems to spin much more freely than the journal core . On the journal core 20g they recommend a 11 blade hotside wheel , as this aids spool but looses a bit at top end . The ball bearing core has a 9blade hotside wheel to flow better at top end . Got a few things to do , "de threebond" the sump , disassemble, check ,clean and reassemble the rcm oil pump , then a few bits of ally to polish and bits to paint , to keep me busy . But I can't wait to get stuck in with the build and see what this arashi uprated core is like

Nice work 😎 Are those rims v1sti wheels? If so they're fairly rare ,dont know how much they sell for but the last set I saw were up for £1k 😲

Looking good 👍

Thanks chaps 👍, its been a week or so since i've managed to get near it coz been away getting my class 1 licence my work kindly put me through it so it gives me more options when i decide to hang up the tools i suppose, anyway got a little more done after work this evening Just some filling and flattening while the blacksmith done the sill on the other side, should get the rest done later on in the week 👍

Rough running. If it was my Hawkeye I would check MAF sensor and plugs. Not sure about forester

Got a couple of problems: whirring noise from rear increasing with speed, diff oil is good, wonder if the centre prop bearing / support could be the culprit leaning out / hesitant under medium throttle. Suspected a worn throttle position sensor then it self healed 🤔 came back today and worse. Not really responding properly in medium / heavy throttle below 3200rpm. the car has covered 77k with a good history file. I bought it in December. given the mileage, I’m wondering if there are known common issues to point me in the right direction

That’s great - I hope you really enjoy it 🙂 they are brilliant cars. The sports sharp dial is interesting too for taking off speed wise!

Subaru has brought out a mapping change which reduces the initial engine torque but this actually makes the engine more flexible and better at in gear acceleration. The change does mean acceleration from rest is slightly slower but acceptable. More importantly keep an eye on the oil level - too low and its a new engine. Also the DPF puts diesel in the sump if you drive too many short journeys. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Yes the pMaxKote, was doing a comparison between the Mahle option and King, like the idea of the coating and the increased oil way. looking forward to seeing how that new turbo performs

Spent a bit of time cleaning off the old three bond liquid gasket from all the mating surfaces with a Stanley blade, as the engineers hot wash doesn't break it down .Then cleaned up the timing belt belt tensioner bracket and p.s pump bracket . When stripping the v4sti heads down one of the spring seats (washer that stops the spring wearing the ally head casings) was slightly damaged , so I've removed one from the v1sti heads to replace it with once I'm ready to fit the heads . I've got loads to do but until the new pistons arrive pat wont start work , as they run 3 thou (3 thousand'th of a inch) clearance. subaru have different A and B sized pistons from the factory. So even though the mahle 2186 stroker pistons are well made , he wants to measure each one and machine the bore to suit . Hopefully by midweek the pistons, 2.5 nitrade crank ,king bearings ,bottom end gasket set ,oils ,filters and fluids should be here 🤞 Then I can drop the cdb ,pistons, crank and bearings off to pat and he can fit in the 93mm overbore, hone and thrust conversion. Arashi have updated me on the new ball bearing tdo5 20g billet and they're waiting on some bearing cases too assemble it 😏. So it's still not been posted yet but they'll send me the tracking info once it's on it's way 😊. I'm looking forward to seeing how well a bb 20g on a 2.1 ltr as I was impressed with the journal core version.... well right up to the point it started blowing smoke everywhere 🤐 Once the blocks in Pat's shop , I can then concentrate on cleaning all the threebond and oil off the sump , clean and inspect the oil cooler and teardown check ,clean and reassemble the rcm oil pump . I just hope the engineer can find the time too squeeze me in , so I can make a start on the rebuild soon 😊

wheel bearing. mine's doing the same it's doing my head i. hardly hear it at 30mph.. 50+ 70mph.. it's a case of turning the radio on! lol Had it on the ramps on friday and it's looking to be OSR got it booked into Subaru Nottm for this coming Friday... about £180

Yep I have paid £100 for oil and filter change. My excuse it was in for bodywork and while they had it I may as well get them to do it. That will be the last time. Budgets always get broken.

Can you say Tranny fluid anymore?

Whirring noise in rear more likely wheel bearing given age and mileage.

Nice progress there 👍

Won't be long now then stu , cracking on with it nicely bud 👍

3.0 litre H6 is a peach, lovely gearbox too. Chain cam engine, HG trouble very rare, and the spark plugs whilst awkward can be done from underneath without too much cursing though your wrists will be shredded 😣 Check the rear subframe in particular for rust and check the front inner CV joints at the time of purchase, on the previous model to that one (a very good car itself too) those inner sat right over the CATs and the heat would cause perishing and splitting of the boots, easy enough DIY to fix but check at purchase, also check the exhaust out, it isn't cheap. Myself i avoid all cars that have lived in Scotland due to excess salt usage leading to corrosion issues. The model you are looking for is the pick of the bunch for Outbacks in my humble, had the present low mileage Forester not cropped up we would have got another H6 for wifey, as you allude to they need an annual service at the very least, not many low mileage examples about but take your time and the right one will appear, i'd rather buy these privately so i can judge the owner as well as the car. Don't pay too much for high ved years, few people want anything @ £555 annual tax.

Collected today the dealer transferred my plate without any issues and went through all the controls etc., did a really great job. I drove home best part of 20miles. What a great car, soooooooo pleased. 😀 just a quick photo. It’s going to take a little time to get used to the technology.

Here is the steps I do when I go the full hog. Jetwash Foam Jetwash Wash with two bucket Rinse as you go Dry Crystal clear, removes old wax. Clay with lube Rinse as you go, stop residue Synthetic chamois Compound, mequiars ultimate, wipe of gently as you go Cover panels with towels etc to stop heat from sun Polish/glaze, meguiars ultimate. Wax, meguiars ultimate, build up 3 or more layers over couple days. Widetrack [emoji3]

Regional county/ Borough/ District: West Sussex, Littlehampton Car Model: 2005 Impreza Sti widetrack Any Mods: Factory fitted prodrive performance pack. Hel braided brake lines. Mudflaps Rear tints. Grooved discs. 55 WRX STI PPP

If it is a high mileage car and no history of water pump change I would do it with the cambelt. It just makes sense to me to do both. The impeller gets corroded by the water and can cause cavitation which can cause vapor to form. This will make the cooling system less efficient. My last cambelt change was <£400, i did not change the waterpump as the car only had 30K, I wish I had now though.