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Hi All, I'm pleased to be here! I've just started a major project! I'm fitting a Legacy Outback 3.0R Spec B engine, and a Subaru 5-speed gearbox into a 1971 VW Bay Window Bus! I'm planning to post updates in various places and showcase the project on YouTube. Stay tuned! I hope the project is of interest here. My main area of concern is how to work with can-bus to fool the ECU that the ABS module is still in play (it won't be). I'm experienced with vehicle electronics, having done a DIY standalone ECU project in the past, but haven't worked with can bus before. I have both the bus and the donor Subaru. I picked the Subaru up at the weekend. It took over an hour and a half to load it on the trailer due to the accident damage. The front wheels didn't turn as most of the front suspension had been removed. And the owner's driveway was gravel and mud. Not conducive to using wheel dollies or an engine crane! I've already removed the engine from the Legacy. I've noticed a few missing parts. Time to get the wallet out. Thanks, Andrew

well,,not as bad as i thought is was goner be.....few piece to be made up and also reinforce the jacking point,,,inside i also so good,light rust in places but spray kurust down it and all is covered nicely but il do another spray worth now its gone off and managed to get a air filter 3d printed air intake adapter(pic to follow)

Damn! Thanks mate, I'll give them a call now!

Just had my 2nd stainless cat back system custom made and fitted at MIJ Walsall, pics on my thread on the Forester forum if you care to take a peek. They made one for our previous (single rear outlet) Outback H6 a few years ago too, same price, i don't know how they do it. Lifetime guarantee, £295 all inc the same as last time, single system at the rear though so doubtless the twin set up of Outback will cost more, give them a ring for a quote. https://www.mijexhaust.com/subaru.php I have no interest in or affiliation to the company other than as a satisfied customer, who now sees them as my first and only port of call when it comes to exhausts.

Tim (SUBBUS) came exactly at the specified time - I'm OCD about punctuality so this was a great start. Having spoken to him, he put me in confidence as, like everyone else states on forums, he really knows his cars; I can't say the same when I spoke to mechanics at Subaru Cambridge main dealer. Currently changing the diff oil, gearbox filter, gearbox oil, plugs (full service) and also checking on my brakes as I suspect the pins are seizing. Also managed to tell me exactly what the front left knock was all about, which turned out to be the anti roll bar drop links. So far he has been amazing! I will provide further info once he has finished the work.

Nz has plenty floating around Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Don't know if you've made a decision yet, but Tyre Reviews has just posted a new video on all-season tyres... May be worth a watch if you haven't taken the plunge.

Lovely motor - If I was working in UK at the moment I would be on my way to collect now - Good luck with the sale

Thank you! That will be a bit of a beast! I will keep you all posted with the project. My donor Spec. B is now ready to be taken away. I've fully stripped the car. Have got some parts for sale now 😉 Andrew

Try chap named Jody Collins on facebook - he was breaking a hatch

are you sure its headgaskets and not rocker gasket?

No problem mate if price is right @savage bulldogs where would you think is the best place to have it fitted as people I’ve tried don’t want to touch it.

Only fast Renault I've ever owned was a Brodie Britain tuned Renault 5 gt turbo , thing used to try n kill me with torque steer on a regular basis but wish I still had it 😏 Popped into see a mate who's into his vdubs , this is his mk2 syncro running a longitudinal de stroked ,forged ,low compression v5 r32 engine with a gt40 and dsg 😍 think she's gonna be a bit of a animal 🤪 Best of luck with the project and keep us posted , bud 👍

It really is 🙂 I'll be starting a YouTube channel to showcase my project and will be posting here. I plan to use as much of the Subaru electronics as I can. Watch this space!

Thank you! Yes you have it correct! Well done. That shows serious car spotting skills! It's my1992 Alpine A610 - 3L V6 Turbo 🙂 Andrew

Steelmate make some of the best parking sensor systems out there, not cheap but high quality with individual replacement parts available which you won't find with the cheapies, we had front and rear sensors fitted to our new Hilux at the time, very accurate, small unobtrusive led display on the dash showing which sensor was being triggered, i could maneuver to within a couple of inches front and rear, thought provoking ''watching'' a child walking across the front of the truck as the leds lit up in turn marking his progress.

Yes turns out I will need an s7 for my build so there will be an s6 available shortly as well as @savage bulldogs's Apexi

Your welcome Jay 👍 Those radium rails are a thing of beauty, bud 😊

Been enjoying the new geo , seems to work well 😊. Went to a local scooby scooby meet last sunday , sensibly socially distant with a nice selection of scoobies to walk round while chatting. Only took a few pics and they don't do the cars justice tbh Even with the boost and duty targets backed off on the avcr , I'm still getting a bit of overboost 😏 I'd love to think that the trick up pipe and my self ported headers are out performing the old grouppe headers but it could well be that the ported headers haven't got a crack in them and are not leaking 🤔 Either way I either need to turn the boost duty down more or get the map tweeked again 😏 Then these popped up for sale ... Genuine 740cc nismos ,that should be good for 440hp ish 😊 I know the 20g won't make that sort of power and I've never got caught in numbers but it will hopefully allow it to just break the 400hp barrier 🤞 Although the apexi f.c has done its job well for years 😎 I'll be ordering a link g4 plug in ECU tomorrow .😊

hahaha, its a whole different ball game 😄

Sadly i too agree. If this was a petrol powered model then i'd say yes make the greatest use of it, but unless you travel for an hour or so on open roads regularly, giving it a fair chance to regen, then you will probably have DPF issues....if your normal motoring means you get a decent run fairly regularly then by all means give it a shot, if it causes issues then you can get the garage to force a regen then either modify your usage or sell the car on, at the very least you will have discovered if such a vehicle type is for you. This is where lorries are so much better, on some you can see the condition of the DPF via the dash menu (precentage of ash reading), and on some manually trigger a regen when suitable, all will warn you when a regen has started giving you the choice to carry on (i've driven an extra 5 miles once to allow a normal vehicle triggered regen to complete), and almost all of them have a full forced regen facility where you can park somewhere quiet where the much increased heat from the exhaust won't be a problem then press a switch, the engine will go to fast idle and 30 mins later the vehicle has self cleaned the DPF...in practice after some 400,000 kms with 2 different make DPF equipped lorries i have not yet needed to trigger a forced regen and only had to cancel a normal vehicle triggered regen once due to just arriving at a customer where i would be blowing product into an explosive atmosphere right beside the vehicle, not a place for excess exhaust heat. Now why couldn't car makers have made this type of operation or even the state-of-play info available on cars, OK some people wouldn't have a clue but we're not all as stupid as car makers seem to think (one size fits all again), on most cars you don't even get a dash light to warn a regen is in process so it's too easy to stop regens mid cycle after a shortish run, this could happen repeatedly...after all the driver knows if they are about to embark on a suitable joureny, the computer in reply doesn't know you are only driving 4 miles to the supermarket. I have one other thought for you Urban Forester, it might be possible to get the software (don't ask me where or what i'm not a techie sort) so you can link to the diagnostics port and see for yourself the state of play of DPF, might even be possible to trigger your own static regen if you get any trouble...Toyota owners have access cheaply to a system called Techstream, i have it myself for my Toyota 4x4 use it mainly for checking injector values etc, there's probably something similar where Subaru owners can get into their vehicle's diagnostics without spending a small fortune...hopefully someone on this forum could advise if such a system exists.

no no, they are decent kit for what they do, its just a case of they havn't been made for many many years now and all electronics arn't the most reliable as they get older. Link vs syvecs isnt as big a gap as you think, its a toss up i've been making for mine. What you don't find out till the time you have one fitted is you need certain extra things, for example to use the full features and get the best out of it you need a sensor pack is about £1000 for decent sensors and installation. So for mine, Link ecu £1400 (ish), was quoted around £3k fitted inc fuel flex etc Syvecs S7L ecu £2100 (ish), was quoted around £3.5k fitted with fuel flex etc So about £500 new (seemed to be less cost for the syvecs installation and mapping so could just be a bit company dependant as clinic is syvecs home base of course) Fitting, mapping and sensor pack, fuel flex, cal switch etc is all gonna be the same across them. which all adds money on to the cost but would be the same for both. The syvecs does have some additional features that the link doesn't, rolling launch controll, more inputs and oututs allowing more things to be connected. You can pick up second hand syvecs now and again so an S6 would do the job and prob be around £1500. But that said the link is more than enough for most setups.

Representing in the F1 Lotus stylee Think that Perrin sticker will have to go.... Plus the force is strong with this one...

I like the 1st gen Leon Coupe. Kei Drift Truck

sorted now,,,just went thought some past forum threads and got some info that good for me

heres a few more pictures,of coarse there are few bushes that need changing on the rear,,,most of the work that needs to be done is on the rear but that how these scooby are

Wotcha and welcome - being based in Plymouth you have some decent Subaru expertise on your doorstep with Martin Jefferies, Im also sure @Mr B is located in that part of the world - a wealth of experience

Missed that flat 4 roar but she's back on all fours , waxed and ready for the geometry set up tomorrow afternoon 😎 Bit of dew on the car this morning and the wax is doing its thing ,making the "boring 406 silver" fleck come alive 😎

Hi Sophie, Sorry to hear you have to sell due to a bad back and hip. Do you have any pictures of the car? Is it a non turbo? Any more details will help to give you better advice. Thanks

This site is one of the best around, the chap also has numerous videos on his own Youtube channel, he does extensive testing himself in these videos. https://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/ All depends on what you want, tyres you can use all year round, all season tyres, or a winter set to be fitted (presumably) on a spare set of wheels for winter use only...this solution has benefits in that your better set of wheels never see any salt. We have two cars, the Forester has spare set of wheels with winter specific tyres fitted, winter tyres don't actually have that great grip on the warmer damper days of winter but they come into their own in snow and such conditions. If it wasn't for already having the second set (they also fitted our previous Outback), i wouldn't bother with winter tyres for typical UK weather again, i would instead go with all season tyres but stamped with the mountain and snowflake symbol, meaning they the rubber is rated for cold weather use, maybe they wouldn't be as good as a pure winter in deep snow, but they are a better compromise in my humble. Our other car, a 120 series Landcruiser is fitted with snowflake stamped Yokohama all season tyres, these are particularly good on wet roads, though its obviously a different beast entirely to a Subaru, just mentioning we have two cars with the different solutions possible, i prefer the all season tyre approach for British weather, especially as AS tyres have come on in leaps and bounds over the last few years. If you search the above TyreReviews youtube channel, he did a good involved test of all season tyres in a low profile size, last winter i believe, well worth looking up, here it is

Thats it NASCAR setup has been corrected looking forward to being able to turn both ways with equal stability 😁

Basic once over completed. PIAA wipers fitted Uprated high beam fitted LED sidelights fitted Cosworth Panel fitted Pollen filter changed Dynamat lined the boot floor replacing the Subaru sound deadening panel that had lifted due to the oil leakage Earth cables had disintegrated so made up some new ones with some amp cable Engine oil and filter changed - Intention is to repeat every 5k from when 85k is reached in 3k time Front Diff Gearbox and Rear Diff oil replaced with Motul 300 Started to adjust the ride height and hear a crunch as the jack met with the rear lifting point..... I dont think the £200 on underseal was preventative maintenance, the amount of mud in places I have not seen on my other hatches leads me to think it has been caught in a flood at some point I will get the sills and arches repaired next year (Once Silver hatch is available) but in the mean time, wire brush followed by zinc primer then black hammerite paint to restrict the spread somewhat and get through the winter Cossie Panel Earth cables old and replacement Rust Primed Painted Moved the fog lights from Dotty to Daphne as being a daily more likely to get used and means I can put some brake cooler ducts in place and added a Zunnsport grill to hide the fact a little that the fog light plastics had been chopped along with a large portion of the front bumper to aid airflow to the FMIC on Dotty, plus a new numberplate - representing the S.O.C now. Winge time - This is the second Hatch this has been done to - How hard is it to drill x2 holes in the right place instead of x2 in the wrong place which then start rusting! x2 holes rusting under the paint - Oh and a reversing camera I installed - forgot about that, also replaced a defective interior mic for the hands free kit Wirebrushed, Kurusted, red oxided & 3M taped to help seal Number plate mounted with x2 holes aligned to the manufacturers pre drilled and tapped items - Its not rocket science and doesnt rust Managed a headlight polish / de-glaze detail and partial paint correction - !Removed! rain showers and years of car washes meant I could not get as far as I wanted - New ride height, standard on rear, 10mm drop up front. Also removed the Perrin wing risers for two reasons: 1. I kept hitting my head on the hatch which does not open fully with them fitted, no I am too old and stupid to learn so at the point it actually put me on my knees decision was made 2. At a certain speed the wind noise created is ridiculously loud Boot dynamat lined Old and new lamps The 20Twenty led indicators whilst canbus friendly flashed too fast so will be replacing with some alternates when they are back in stock. Have also replaced the rear fog and reverse lamp with the same 20Twenty lamps (white) with no issues. High beam is the MTEC product proven before to remind the chelsea tractor drivers they have high beam on

Yes, it was suggested by Tim and he showed me a post by Perrin where they did the same thing to their H6, however I soon realised that I'd need a manual box and my car is automatic: https://www.perrin.com/blog/post/perrin-h6-build-up I've read on a few US forums where people have fitted (it's an easy bolt on) a turbo to their H6 without any other mods, just a map for low boost, etc. The engine (the same has been stated by Perrin) is under no stress what so ever after the turbo and they were pushing around 360whp / 420bhp with a 0-60 in low 4s.

I have an 09 H6 3.0R B Spec. Love the car! £500 sounds like an absolute bargain to me. Will post my experience after they've fitted the exhaust. Can't wait.

Thanks, finally found one in Japan from BeForward. Good service and a keen price if you ignore the duty! Typically though, I didn't need it - the stubborn hub which we thought would damage the drive shaft coming off actually gave up more easily than predicted So, anyone want a used rear drive shaft? Boxed and untouched as received from Japan. They don't do returns so it's eBay otherwise. £20 plus p & p to club members. Part number as above.

I had to spend £150 for my version 3 o2 sensor being a WRX and not a turbo 2000 😬 Its only 2 years old however it’s helped it pass emissions both times.

No still not found out same reason my rear trim cracked and badly repaired by previous owner Subaru want silly money tempted to buy one and just resell it if it doesn’t

Some info was shared on FB today - exhaust recommendations Peterborough area. These are the following answers https://www.waltonmotorsport.com/contact/ Amersham way https://www.facebook.com/A-TM-Engineering-135268766543890/ Norfolk KMR Motorsport fabrication in Norfolk Norfolk https://www.facebook.com/Ryan-Edwards-Exhaust-Fabrication-Ltd-824591494257332/ Bicester https://www.jabbasport.com/ Peterborough https://www.facebook.com/D7R-Fabrication-179838456059825/ Telford - probably a little far for you https://www.facebook.com/CSKRaceExhausts/ York - even further https://www.facebook.com/Edwardsmotorsport21/ https://www.facebook.com/mike.edwards.37/about Wisbech

Hi Foresters Has anyone tried, successfully, to retrofit Apple Car Play to a Forester? Mine's a 2015. If so, how?

Although I couldn't hear any difference in noise from the crack in the headers , it's definitely been blowing bad and has cooked the paint on the underside of the cam cover 🙄 Ideally I'd like another decent set of headers but this years budget is fubared, due to the stroker build . Haven't made the prettiest job of wrapping the oe ported headers but I did leave the oe crossover heat shield on and double up the wrap where the headers pass around the oil filter 😉 Headers and trick up pipe fitted . Both wishbones sealed with dynax and fitted loosely, as I need to refit the downpipe before fitting the H brace to the wishbone mounting bolts 😉 Unfortunately the original o2 sensor on a v1 is pre up pipe (in the header collector) and I think the excessive heat in that area has cause it to weld itself into the old cracked headers. Completely ripped the o2 sensor bung outta the old headers trying to remove it , so I need to find a oe replacement 🙄 But shes about 3 hrs work from booking a geo now 😎

Hi mate I got a 94 Subaru Mine doing the same Had a look the spring is broken on the clutch fork so now getting new spring £6.80 glad it was a Cheap fix

Some before and afters

Wotcha and welcome - feel free to share photos start your build thread (post Lotto win) all friendly on here 😊

Just a few more bits for her 😁on there way so be fitting them next weekend

Put him on her sounds nice ( loud pipes save lives)

Job done! He was on his own today so it took him around 5 hours to complete the job - I did pester him every other hour or so though as I had tons of questions about modifying my car (i.e. adding a turbo in the future - PERRIN Subaru H6 Project Build post on the internet). I'm extremely happy with the job. Tim knows his cars and was quite professional. He stamped my service book and provided a proper invoice. I can't recommend Tim Farmer enough! Here are his digits in case anyone needs him: 07880661866 Will use him again to change my discs, pads, anti roll bar droplinks and exhaust next month.

Sun strip fitted [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

And now fitted Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

these came in the post today - gelcoat badges made to order 🤗

New mudflaps and exhaust back box on in the last 2 days [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk