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Base coat applied,getting its colour put on today!

Cheers chap, hopefully I wont need one but if I do that's a pretty cheap solution 👍 As for what am I doing to my subaru today 😉

I've collected my wheels today they are in paint code GK1 They are a subtle gold, more of a caramac colour, which I prefer. Top is new Bottom is old The pictures do nothing for them, they have been done to a brilliant standard, and every detail has been discussed and checked before completion. Thanks to BCS Automotive Nottingham

All painted,flatten and polish to follow.

Treated myself to these 2 for my incoming BH5

Hi Rob, I've decided to sell my 2.5 XT Fozzie, so if you are in the market for a modified Subaru, which looks quite unique, please let me know. Here is a pic.

Hi all, been a member on here for a while but probably not as active as others! Anyway enough Bull****, I finally got the subaru on the road and tested today and can't believe what I've been missing. Took 5yr but worth it just for the grin factor alone.

fourth gen around 2013 for transition to chain . All ealry 2.5s will have head gaskets fail at some point due to gaskets materials used and sealing area stresses of the block, oil used and service points along with usage type and long running faults like missing and fuelling make big difference. Due to boxer design oil sits around HG joint and as contains solvents and corrosives from combustion it slowly attacking the gasket and 2.5 block stresses the HG more. Most I see are around 80 to 120k, caught early or done in advance at high mileage as a service precaution and it not overly costly. NA engines easier deal with generally . 2.5 is nice in forester but as a used reliable low hassle/cost car can be risky as could have hassle diagnosing fault, finding good garage do work & get a bill for as much as paid for the used forester. If buy a 2'.5 be sure price was right and you fully aware repair costs and prepared to deal with it . I see lot of people who not hence why don't recommend .

once checked switch wiring and power earths values (can also ohm test the heater elements) then good way go is used seat, even if strip down you can't repair element only wiring to it and seat cushion switch. As a shop I can't strip them as becomes too costly be viable and no way know if even repairable so replacing seat way to go in cost and turn around .

each seat has pair of elements, your drivers set probably only 1 element working on high heat .

Welcome

its pure pot luck tbh, some take a beating and keep on ticking, some get babied and fail if you look at them wrong, Does mean you can pick them up cheap with a failed engine and then have engine built to your spec so no issues later.

The Mrs makes bath bombs and bubble bars, she had a 5kg tub. Its brilliant stuff

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Forester got a list of engines on thats, only seems to be the 2.5NA thats chain driven in the forester, (FB engine)

Its been a while since posted here, car developed ringland few weeks ago with 1 cracked ringland. The amount of time and effort I have put in getting her like I want I decided to rebuild. Its currently with Andy Williams at WMS being forged. Along with a few other mods: Forged Build Scoobyworx 3 port boost solenoid Omni 4 Bar map sensor Precision turbo 5530 Sti intercooler Exedy Pink Box Stage1 Clutch cant wait to get it back, next on the list will be 6 speed upgrade

Removed the headlights on the Legacy and polished them up. Some sanding then compound followed by few coats of wax. Gave this and the missus motor a good scrub up. Excuse the colour differences as taken on two different cameras. Need to get the front grill altered/painted and see if I cant do something with that paint scuff, been on there since I bought the motor.

I haven't got a clue what spec it is and have never seen it in the flesh .Afaik Darren at abw did the work to, showcase his parts and he makes some quality stuff . someone fairly local used to own it and Think its changed hands a few times since being built , so not sure how good it is now . Don't let that put you off though, if you like it go and see it for yourself to find out if it's still in good condition.

Fingers crossed 🤞

So he wasn't able to, and my Subaru dealer wasn't much help either today when it was in for 2 more recalls ( thats 3 this year) I've found a company called Accutek in Winchester who I spoke to today and they reckon they can order the cables in for me..So I've placed the order and should have them by next friday

Manifold is unequal and it does give the burble - this will be retained 👍 Ill follow up with Alyn - cheers

I had a slip jointed up pipe on my WRX, bought it from @savage bulldogs. Put some fresh heat wrap on it and it worked perfectly fine. Could hear it ever so slightly blowing on really cold days but stops after a minute or so.

check for play in joints as suggested then get an alignment check done - check tyre pressures also - too high and this will cause them to slide and spin up easier

@savage bulldogs @gemlp82 @Sclark01 @scottrobo23 if you want to come i am taking payments now to book the stand as soon as i get some payments i will book it for anyone else that wants to come let me know and i will add you to the list

Bung above cylinder no 3 ,is definitely the best place for oil temp readings, the one behind the alternator is normally where oil pressure sensor is fitted bud

The Subaru 4 post are fairly prone to seized or sticky pistons ,especially if the piston dust seals are damaged or the cars been sat a while . Warped discs will normally give pedal judder or you'd feel it at low breaking speeds. You might find a clean ,check all pistons are moving freely, re grease and re assembly might solve your problems

If not calipers sticking then your disks could be warped. It can only really be sticky calipers or warped disks due to sticky calipers. Someone else may be able to come up with another reason.

Thanks for the information I’ll check the cage it’s factory because the dash and door trim are moulded around the bars. is this a collectible model?

looks great, cant beat a bit of shiney shiney

I'm routing for you mate. Keep up the good work 😎

Time to start doubling up on clamps, at that boost you bound to pop a few pipes off. Engine bay is starting to look really good by the way, love the aircraft grade quick connectors and braided lines!

Well top Mark's for DHL, Frankfurt on Wednesday night, on my doorstep in Suffolk on Thursday afternoon 😊 First impressions of the arashi turbo are that it's been well made , all the machined surfaces are well finished and not burred. Every nut and bolt has engineer's paint on ,which is normally used once a fixing has been torqued to mark the position of the nut . There was a fair bit of stuff in the fitting kit ,which all appears to be good quality... Turbo outlet and uppipe studs/nuts , numerous different strength springs for the billet actuator, oil line with banjo bolts and gaskets . I never use anything but Subaru exhaust gaskets but the gaskets themselves look better quality than oe ,with a couple of more layers and a polished finish . There's also a core balance sheet ,so hopefully it's been balanced and a serial number id card along with some other info . I think we've are mugged off in the UK for the price of turbos and hopefully the arashi will be reasonable quality but only time and a dyno tweek will tell . So here's a few pics for now 😉

rear inner arch/turret rust can be bad and indeed sometimes can look perfect but tap them with small hammer or something and you soon know they bad/thin . Forester SG can be bad on inner arch/turrets as the reduced metal thickness in those panels as part of weight reduction changes. They go at seams, strengthening rib directly behind the strut, seat belt anchor point and where joins into sill . The inner sills and body mount area for trailing arms can get scabby too. Rear subframe comes a common failure on older subaru's or ones used in poor conditions and no decent prevention or cleaning . Subframe is easy fix but not cheap if can't do it yourself . Do check front subframes too and front lower wishbones . I see hell of a lot of foresters and outbacks, many 15 to 20 years old and in general they have minimal issues and have pretty easy MOT's . The oem cv boots even ones under cat ( forester same O/S) last well over a decade, good quality replacements (ones made in Japan generally) fit and last much the same and they cheap and easy fit and not going be repeat issue unless using junk parts. Corrosion is about biggest thing can get caught out on and can be hard spot so be thorough and do just look you got tap the panels and dig around muddy clogged seams to know for sure . waxoyl or similar products applied to underbody, inner panels and suspension parts with some thought and care makes huge difference long term . Do also remember rear SLS struts can get fatigued so if see a sagging rear end they be the issue . over all not much worry about if take little time and stick with a nice clean car, we currently got a 2002 2.5 outback at 120K that picked up private local sale for 1K, thing is close to perfect, not a fan of the 2.5 but car that faultless even if had head gaskets needing doing it be worth doing as they such great practical reliable wagons . Fair few good ones out there, just take time and don't be afraid pay little more for real clean care as for sure you get your moneys worth and then some on a proper clean/tidy older subaru .

Corrosion wise, the Forester has had an easy life corrosion not an issue, though i have extensively rustproofed it anyway with Bilt Hamber's finest. The Outback was obviously a much older and cheaper car, but apart from exhaust the only real rust was on the rear subframe, again i de-rusted that and rustproofed it and it never was an issue again, but i hasted to add neither car had lived in Scotland. The biggest issue with all Japanese cars is how susceptible to salt corrosion the brake calipers are, so bank on fully stripping cleaning and lubing those on any car you get, standard Brembo discs and pads are reasonably priced at ECP, especially when they have a sale on online, and they have improved the braking on every vehicle i have fitted them to. One thing i forgot to mention about 3 litre Outbacks, or at least the up to 03 models, the cats sit just below the inner drive shaft couplings and the heat from them will cause early failure of the rubber boots, fortunately these cars were made to be worked on in such areas and the drive shafts fully dismantle quite easily so new boots and regrease is an easy sat morn job. If you take a torch and peer down from above at the rear of the engine both sides you should be able to see the inner boots when checking a vehicle over. Hope you find yourself a good one, as you mention prices are all over the shop.

I'm following this with interest. I'm also looking for a 2.0l petrol, manual Forester. I think it will need to be 2008 onwards though. All the pre-2006 I've looked at have MOT failures for serious corrosion (no doubt fixed up to pass MOT). I'm looking for a car with minimal rust underneath but sadly all the older ones seem bad for rust. I'm also keen to get the 2-ton towing capacity from the post 2008 models. Please keep us updated Don.

To give you an idea we paid a grand more than that for a 2008 with 27k miles probably 18 months ago.

road and track are very very different chap, after being around people and cars up at clinic that do track days and full blown races, road stuff just isn't up to it. takes a very small time to over heat road level brakes for example.

Nice work lad!

Hi savage, pullers were a bargain mate just over £40 brilliant I had to make a plate to go over the wheel studs tho . https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264017406153

Removed rear hubs with great difficulty I might add ! Ebay spesh 15ton hydraulic pullers, copious amounts of plus gas and heat finally 21 year old splines released phew😬😜

Wotcha and welcome Rob - a legacy may be more suited to your requirements and there are some nice models for around 5k mark, some clean imports also with nice specs

Spanking now thats a word i like lol Be good to see beasty as intended and fingers crossed that tub will bring you a few more ponies and a big smile on your face :-)

Gave up getting the gt28r with the popped seals rebuilt, quote started off at £350 😎 .... after inspection the cost went up to nearly £1,000 wtf 🤪😏. So today I bought a brand new billet wheeled tdo5 20g instead 😊

Met up with a good mate of mine and went to a local retro car meet . Was nice to finally drive the v1sti again 😎 His evo6 rs is a lovely example , who says evo and scooby owners can't get on 😊 If its rapid ,retro and petrol, generally I like it 😉

Fixed. It was the Subaru immobilizer in the end FFS...

I know the roads are bad up here but I’ve managed to stick to tarmac and the occasional bit of grass 😂 Weekends work

Cheers James, I dug the spare alternators outta the very back of the scooby scraps shed and I guess I must have a leak somewhere 🤔 As they both look like they've come off the titanic (rusty as fook) 😂 Glad most of my other spares are in plastic storage containers. So If I can't make a good one outta the 3 I've got , I might take you up on that 👍

08 Flared wrx

After much research I found the badge needed. It seems the aftermarket Taiwanese grilles are direct replacements for the grille fitted to post 2016MY models. They fit the earlier models perfectly but you need the later badge which is smaller. I can recommend these aftermarket grilles, the quality is as OEM and fit is as good. Part no needed is 93013SG050. The earlier badge is 93013SG000. Hope this helps someone!

http://youtu.be/-8dDsCu5iko