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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Proh rocker cover gasket, pretty common but get it done asap
  2. 3 points
    Well, it's gone. This morning we pushed it out onto the road as I'd left the handbrake off, and loaded onto the truck. That's going to be cambelt, water pump, tensioner, coil packs, plugs, full service, brakes all round, and whatever else is found wanting.
  3. 2 points
    Finally, I will pick up the car today! Haven't driven it in well over 2 years, so really looking forward to it.
  4. 2 points
    Ignore me it's not white smoke I was just reading a thread about white smoke๐Ÿ˜‚
  5. 1 point
    Hi any body help? I have just had my 04 WRX to my local garage and was told that my rear shocks are toast. So I thought instead of buying rear shocks I wanted to get a set of coilovers. Can anybody recommend a set of budget coilovers or are they a waste of money? Thanks
  6. 1 point
    Hks, Perrin, hdi,autobahn ect are normally embossed on , so its likely to be unbranded. It could be custom made ,other reputable make or just simply well made , so it doesn't mean it's not good for 600hp . Just that it's sort of a generic shape and difficult to identify what brand it is , generally if they look well made and the fins are in good order . It will work but how efficiently , you'll have to try n see bud
  7. 1 point
    It looks very similar to my hdi fmic core but most branded cores will have the makers mark on them somewhere. The "hdi " on mine is embossed along the top .
  8. 1 point
    Spoke to alyn nice guy he's gonna sort me out ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
  9. 1 point
    Chris can you make use of genuine dog guard and loads pace liners for your outback they are totally free. I am just down in Evesham
  10. 1 point
    Yeah thanks man ๐Ÿ‘. Iโ€™ll save up a bit more and get a good un
  11. 1 point
    I didn't mention this b4 a friend had ra motorsport build him a 550hp type r about 5 years ago .... It cost him 25k and looked lovely but the engine had mismatched cams ,came on boost at 6k and only made 401hp on the dyno . Sounds like you've got a case for being miss sold a performance engined car that's not fit for purpose
  12. 1 point
    The short version is the ecu is looking for the bits you've removed, you need to get it mapped out. My advice is stay well clear of racedungnamics, wouldn't trust the muppet to map my toaster.
  13. 1 point
    good job on using decent grade parts, skf boots decent and your brakes decent ... Any more decent DOT 4 fluid do on road ... We use castrol react mainly as deal with castrol oils a lot Motul is decent fluids .. Get out get some miles on her and some money into the economy lol ... Positioning difference of rear front arm bush generally differs to change castor value . Fozzy has difference too due to increased ride height as it a light suv station wagon off of what is a impreza chassis with different body panels . . another option to remember for removing rubber bushes ifnot in ideal environment let out the black smoke lol is drill lots of holes through the rubber then push centre out and go to hacksaw step. Threaded bar and sockets also make good forcing screw press although proper forcing screw and cup kits can be had for fairly sensible money these days . Keep up the good work and have fun wrenching ๐Ÿ‘
  14. 1 point
    The parts listed will fit all Forester SG models X XT XE , it mainly parts data that gives confusion of it not fitting . Some tyre options for subaru 16^ rim could be 215 65 16 , 225 60 16 or 215 70 16 *** Change of tyre size and lift block will need be declared to your insurer *** Don't laugh it off as they love refusing a claim based on this and in any major incident you will truly be in deep !Removed! . Insurers not as soft on this as was decade or 2 ago so educate yourself on it and speak to your insurers before doing it to see if they still cover you and if want a supplement charge to do so . My advise would be do the rear struts and see how it sits then review what height you actually like gain and cost of doing it legally with insurers. YOU can be penniless quite quickly these days in an accident and Insurance invalidated . I would say go with the HD springs mainly as they best compensate for fact you no longer have SLS thus ride height goes quite low on rear heavy loaded or heavy tongue weight trailer . Ride comfort is marginally better with standards but not much in it and what people consider decent will vary anyway . What I will say is you will notice a massive improvement over the current failing SLS. People don't realise how much of a safety issue it is but cornering, sudden swerve and braking will be far more controlled on new excel G struts and either spring option .
  15. 1 point
    KYB excel G shocks 334344 334345 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Left-02-to-05-Damper/232563218743 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-Handed-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Right-02-to-05/333585256342 Springs (use heavy duty springs if load or tow it a lot and standard if just used more family light use road driven SUV) RC6431 standard duty https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Kayaba-RC6431-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs/323873684791 RA6028 heavy duty https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Kayaba-RA6028-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs/323874493110 Note: The seller (partsinmotion) who selling the shocks are always in the eBay coupon offers so you can get 20% off those prices if wait for a coupon . The seller also has the springs but price not as good as what linked above as a pair set . We use partsinmotion as registered business is near us and their prices on lot of parts far cheaper than best price on trade account factors we use. We actually stock parts from eBay sources using 20% discounts as that cheap and enables us fit better brand parts at competitive pricing . If you don't have spring compressor you need buy one but they under ยฃ15 . I would advise the KYB protection kit which includes the bump stops as yours will be pretty bad I expect, most are on ones I done Protection kit is under ยฃ20 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Dust-Cover-Kit-fits-SUBARU-IMPREZA-GG9-2-0-Rear-05-to-07-EJ204/333556449826 Lift blocks link below for you look at ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-strut-spacers-20mm-for-Subaru-BRZ-FORESTER-IMPREZA-LEGACY-OUTBACK-Lift-Kit/192541769644 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-strut-spacers-30mm-for-Subaru-FORESTER-IMPREZA-LEGACY-Lift-Kit/192541771902 Good thread on fitting shocks and finer details to SG forester >
  16. 1 point
    Go KYB strut and spring. Cost will be under ยฃ200 and it easy DIY job on the SG . * I will link the parts (motorfactor trader on eBay) bit later as busy working at moment * Do not lift by adding longer spring because side efect of that is travel range of strut reduced . If want raise it use better quality lifting blocks with metal tube inserts found on ebay from russia (they well into foresters over there) I would do 20mm lift in rear and 10mm in front or max 30mm in rear and 20mm front . For more ground clearance you be best going up in tyres like 215 70 15 or 205 75 15 20mm rear 10mm front and 215 70 15 tyres give sensible gain and keep road handling as should be also get a alloy skid plate or make one for front sump and dump the plastic nappy subaru put on from the factory . The Fozzy is a big boy now and got no use for a nappy ...
  17. 1 point
    Evening folks just noticed tonight a very light smoke coming from the heat sheild behind the turbo after an easy run round town should I be worried?
  18. 1 point
    If the smoke is in the bay and not coming out of the back box then it sounds like a external leak dripping on the exhaust system ,rather than a internal leak (engine burning oil). This is on a ej207 I built but the oil feed to the turbo connects to the white circle. Then goes through the turbo , drains down a rubber pipe (bottom centre of the turbo) and into a hard pipe that returns the oil into the engine where the yellow "circle " (excuse my sausage finger circle drawing ) ๐Ÿ˜‚ The turbo drain pipe is probably best seen from underneath and is held to the turbo oil drain take off and oil drain return hard pipe by spring clips . Tbh it's more likely to be the cam cover gasket/half moons but thought its worth mentioning the above while your looking in that area . Wouldn't want to say whether it's safe to drive, as it depends how bad the leak is and where it comes from but if you need to use it .... keep a eye on levels and off boost ,as if its leaking oil too much it might cause a drop in oil pressure.
  19. 1 point
    As tidgy has said the rocker gasket and half moons are the usual culprits in that area . As the up pipe runs very close to the seals on that side and they get brittle from the heat cycles. Only other thing that has oil in that area is the turbo , so might be worth checking the turbo oil drain and feed before ordering anything ๐Ÿ˜‰
  20. 1 point
    My 2nd service was due at the beginning of May, I contacted my dealer, Adams Bros., Aylesbury and they said theyโ€™d contact me when they were ready to open the service area and had it set up to meet the needs of the COVID 19 sanitisation. So today I got there for 8:30am. There were notices on the doors and a pathway defined to a designated reception area. Iโ€™d been asked to take my own pen and after the usual discussions I was told that the car would be sanitised before and after they had completed the service. I was then asked if I wanted them, for ยฃ10 +VAT, to let off a STK Pro Sanitiser 198 bomb (used during a Air Con service) before I took the car after the service Iโ€™d be therefor the first person sitting in the car after it had been โ€œbombedโ€. I agreed and sign off for the service. After the service the car was returned to the reception area, the car started and air con set to manual full boost and the car doors closed. When the bomb had finished and time allowed for it to work it was removed and the door handles clean as was the car keys. Adams are a family dealership and I felt they had worked hard to meet or exceed the requirements. So thatโ€™s over for another year hopefully by next year we will be back to a more normal state of play.
  21. 1 point
    Started pulling suspension apart to address split dust boots, they had not been trimmed on assembly so when compressed they rub on the springs and split - both fronts missing altogether. An argument could be made for running without them - cosmetic etc but I always tend to follow what the pros do and if motorsport teams run with them and Ohlins supplies them as part of the original kit they should be there IMO Discovered that the units had also been incorrectly assembled (shouldn't be surprised really) with the front and rear set both having different springs They should be 90Nm front and 70Nm on the rear - here are the fronts where you can see the difference in spring diameter and 70C (70Nm) labelled on the spring Awaiting the dust boots but the springs have been blasted and powder coated ready for reassembly
  22. 1 point
    Personally I wouldn't want to keep a car that either burns a lot of oil or that the previous owner didn't check the oil levels in . As running a performance car with half a litre of oil in, would likely have caused some long term damage damage that would dramatically shorten engine life Does the engine look like it's been removed /cleaned ? . If you know the engine spec and what headgaskets were used , you can see the part of the headgaskets that normally have the brand on by looking at them .As they poke out between head and block along the top of the block . Otherwise a endoscope down the bore might let you identify the piston type has been fitted . You probably could get your money back just through the lack of oil but if you visually check the headgaskets and they've not been upgraded as described, I'd say it would strengthen your case for a refund .
  23. 1 point
    Sounds like a plan - Looking on the positive side you now have an opportunity to start a build thread?
  24. 1 point
    Wotcha and welcome - It is unfortunate your first post is such a downer. Many of us travel significant distances to get our motors so nothing strange there. I myself bought a motor that had been 'built' by a tuning company, the engine lasted 4000 miles - I only managed 1000 before I noticed the oil in coolant, so you are not alone. The cost to transport back to origin would need to be weighed up with cost to complete repairs yourself, if the seller has offered to resolve this I believe this is the correct course of action in a dispute. If you decide to return it then I would want proof for repairs - receipts for components etc. I suspect there will be some expense incurred by yourself to resolve this however way you approach it so it will be down to how much you want to pay out vs peace of mind with the solution. Keep us posted though
  25. 1 point
    2008 Subaru Forester for sale for parts, repair or a project - 2002-2008 model. Currently a non-runner after breaking down on M25 a couple of weeks ago but prior to that was running perfectly. 139,000+ on the clock and MOT'd until Feb 2021. Has 4 almost new tyres, no problems with the gearbox and almost 3/4 tank of fuel. Bodywork/inside by no means perfect as vehicle has been well used. I have all the relevant paperwork. Would take ยฃ250 for it. Needs to be towed or put on trailer for removal from Walton-on-Thames KT12 area. Can contact by emailing Riccb@aol.com Thanks for looking
  26. 1 point
    Hi all. Gonna be convertingmy 2011 to lpg in the near future, and was wondering if anyone else had done it?
  27. 1 point
    I donโ€™t think youโ€™ll be disappointed, I always reason what price safety and security. Iโ€™ve done about 16k plus on my onceโ€™s fitted to the XV and still showing 6mm of tread.
  28. 1 point
    They are very rare now there is only two left on the road I have two so there will be another for sale on here soon
  29. 1 point
    Welcome, i have a v1 wrx and to get up to over 300bhp you will need to fit bigger injectors, the original injectors should be grey 380cc i think which max out around 280bhp so will have to get a set of yellow 440cc which will allow you to get to over the 300 mark, i'm unsure about the newage intercooler mod as i've never done that but i'm sure you could get the v2 intercooler re-cored just like a radiator, samco make good quality hoses in all sorts of colours but not sure why some kits have 12 and others have 8 aux hoses, a panel filter will do for the power you are trying to achieve as cone filters are really for if you were going for silly power levels, hks, forge or gfb make decent dump valves and i have an esl board in my car fitted to a z4 ecu and all seems to be fine the engine still runs great and is producing around 300bhp with no problems at all so far ๐Ÿ‘
  30. 1 point
    I have a nice clean black WRX 1995 JDM and want to upgrade the engine. Iโ€™m not really interested in big power. I just want it to look better and some minor mods then a re-map to take it over 300bhp. Itโ€™s currently about 275bhp. Here is what I was thinking of doing: 1. New Intercooler. My current one is factory spec and the fins are all crumpled and broken beyond repair. I donโ€™t believe you can buy these new any more. I understand that a Newage one will fit with some modification. Can anyone recommend a particular make? The ones on eBay for ยฃ150 are they any good? I donโ€™t want a front mounted one because then I will have to move the registration plate and I donโ€™t really want to change the exterior of the car too much. 2. Silicon hoses. Iโ€™m looking for a complete set in orange. Can anyone recommend anywhere to buy these? There seems to be a cooler set (3) turbo set (2) and auxiliary (12) or (8). Why are there two different sized auxiliary sets? 3. Updated filter. Do I need a panel or cone filter? Can you get them in orange?? 4. Dump valve, it does have one fitted but it looks like a cheap one. What are the benefits of a more expensive one and any recommendations on particular makes? 5. Fitting an ESL piggy back ECU to enable remapping. Duncan Graham comes highly recommended and charges ยฃ690 for this. He also said the ESL is fine if only doing small mods. Most importantly can anyone recommend a mechanic/enthusiast who can fit the Newage IC for me. I want someone who has done it before on a V2 classic and knows what they are doing. I live in Somerset close to the Dorset border but will travel for the right guy. Thanks
  31. 1 point
    I'd say listen to some vids of different exhausts online , I know cobra used to have some vids of their products fitted on their website and there's plenty of others on YouTube. I'd also say that future exhaust system mods could affect exhaust note and volume. My old 5zigen cat back sounded just right at first but after fitting headers, uppipe and downpipe .. it was !Removed! brutal lol . Miltek, prodrive and Haywood and Scott tend to be fairly quiet. Cobra do straight through ear bleeders to 3" trackday friendly stuff . Rcm stuff is good quality but it comes at a price. Nur spec ,hks, fubitsu ect for jdm looks .
  32. 1 point
    Oil brand wise I always use millers oil grade wise the subject is normally a can of worms tbh lol . If there's anything in the s/h saying what grade it's been running on previously I'd stick with that . Otherwise Standard bug onwards most use 5w30 and for classics 10 w 40 . Being forged I'd probably suggest 10 w 40 ,as most forged pistons run looser clearances and the slightly thicker oil will protect the bores /pistons until up to temp and the clearances close up a bit .
  33. 1 point
    I fitted some alloys I recently refurbished myself.
  34. 1 point
    Thought Iโ€™d join and see what the forum had to offer. Been spying on it for a while. Picked up a 2001 Subaru Impreza WRX. Love it but itโ€™s becoming a money pit already.
  35. 1 point
    Ye ha ๐Ÿค  cowboy nascar geo settings ?
  36. 1 point
    I normally use brake cleaner , just don't physically touch the element wire (very fragile) and make sure the cleaner has completely evaporated, before refitting ๐Ÿ˜‰
  37. 1 point
    480 total running in miles done and 160 miles since changing to the oe stat .... Still no leaks or coolant loss ๐Ÿฅณ Started feeding the low boost target in further up the rev range but I've only kept a low 0.65 target whilst running in. So I'm now using most of the throttle and rev range ,as the engine has loosened up nicely. I have a afr gauge and can monitor knock but the afr is a little rich , increased displacement (now a 2.13) and more aggressive cams will mean the map definitely needs tweaking before adjusting the boost anymore. The ally rad I got from Asperformance seems to have reduced the max coolant temperature by 5ยฐ, doing the same journey in the same conditions but I still haven't been stuck stationary in traffic yet (so can't comment on all round performance yet ) So I'm booked in at clive attowes next friday ๐Ÿ˜Š
  38. 1 point
    The owner is your best clue, if buying private. Find one that has been cherished they are out there. As Rosscosm has said regular services, I don't care if the guy did it himself as in my experience garages and even Subaru dealerships have not got a clue about these cars. You need proof that it has been done. Tyre rotation, if the owner can answer this then they do look after it. I meet an old guy who had a Hawkeye STI and he could tell me everything about the car, he had recorded every penny and had spent ยฃ47K on it including car, even down to the petrol in liters. That is the guy you wanna buy from. Look for standard but that is going to be tricky but they are out there. Always check for dried coolant around the overflow tank. If bad HG it can push coolant out of this tank which then dries on all the plastic. 2007 models heavy tax ยฃ525 per year and it hurts. Drivetrain are noisy compared to normal cars if you have not driven one before, and WRX brakes are awful. If all ready mapped you need to see the dyno results etc. Go for an STI, I wish I had. I still love my WRX. Good Luck
  39. 1 point
    First 250 miles done and I'm enjoying the commute to work ๐Ÿ˜Ž Although it does keep distracting me whilst I'm working on the scaffolding ๐Ÿ˜Š still seem to have a coolant pressure issue though ,as its started weaping elsewhere now ๐Ÿ™„ . Only thing I can put it down to is the high flow stat I fitted ๐Ÿค” After looking at pictures of the "high flow stat " and comparing it to a standard stat , It actually looks like it might actually restrict flow . So I've bought a oe stat to replace it , hopefully that will resolve the either restriction or increase in flow ๐Ÿคž
  40. 1 point
    Dodging in and out of the rain showers today but I managed to fit everything eventually ๐Ÿ˜Ž I drained the coolant system (again) removed the leaky rad to give me a bit more space ,to get to the oil cooler pipes at the front of the engine. The new samco hoses where a really tight fit onto the water pump ,new crossover pipe ,oil cooler and block take off . So that coupled with the new cheap exhaust wrap ....made this one of my least favourite scooby jobs for a long while ๐Ÿ˜ I fitted two of the new pipes to the crossover pipe and then filled a swear jar fitting the rest but with the pipes being such a tight fit and the new spring clips being so strong .. . I'm sure it won't be leaking again anytime soon ๐Ÿ˜Š The ally rad Alyn @asperformance supplied has a slightly bigger core and 50mm thicker end caps but it fitted fine ๐Ÿ˜Ž Only issue I did have was my cheapy rad cooling panel needed to have a couple of bits cut out either end , to fit round the bigger end caps . Then a few notches cut out of it for the rad shroud and expansion bottle hardlines to bolt through. So everything back together ,coolant refilled ,blead and run up to temp with the new sti header tank cap . Test drive went fine and "bang the leaks are gone " ๐Ÿ˜Š Looking forward to the Tuesday commute going back to work now , to start clocking up these running in miles at last ๐Ÿ˜‰
  41. 1 point
    Decided to go with a ally rad ,rcm/samco oil modine pipe kit and a new genuine sti header tank cap . So hopefully the weather's dry over the weekend I can start to run in again and use it for the commute to work next week ๐Ÿคž
  42. 1 point
    For Sale 2005 Impreza WRX brand new centre and rear exhaust. Replaced when I bought the car new and had a dealer fitted pro drive kit. Sensible offers.
  43. 1 point
    Fitted the new thermostat and swapped out a couple of those crappy coolant spring clips for proppa jubilee ones .Ran it up to temperature a few times now and the heat cycles are complete now ,without any leaks this time ๐Ÿค๐Ÿ™„๐Ÿ˜Š. So slapped the front end back on this morning ๐Ÿ˜Š Just gotta drop the mineral oil out ,fit a new filter and refill with some millers running in oil . Then she's ready to tax and take to Tesco on it's essential maiden voyage ๐Ÿคž
  44. 1 point
    I'm "lucky " enough to be back at work because I'm currently converting a ww2 bombing planning office into private dwellings, which means I'm on my own and in the middle of a airfield (miles from anything or any one ) . Unfortunately that's slowed progress on the scooby atm though ๐Ÿ™„ . I got the pump back from pat Seager and the full set of hi temp exhaust headstuds turned up too , so here's a pic showing why I didn't use the "kit bolt" unfortunately first time around. The bolt on the toothed idler has no makers /identification marks, no shoulders (like the oe one above) and just didn't look good quality but I trust the suppliers choice and looks ain't everything lol . So water pump ,idler pulleys, hydraulic tensioner fitted (again ๐Ÿค ) cams dialed in and kevlar belt fitted . Kept the tape over the inlet ports and fitted the thermal spacers (bolts would be to long otherwise) and old inlet so it was ready to lift . Timing belt covers and crank pulley torqued down, too . I struggled to get the engine through the shed door on my own "built up" ,so fitted the headers, up pipe ,turbo, clutch and flywheel (with new spigot bearing) outside. Engines currently just sat in the bay ๐Ÿ˜Šbut hey at least it's finally in it's proppa place ๐Ÿ˜‰ When it comes to running in , I guess I'll have to use it to get to work ๐Ÿ˜‡ and yes I've already asked the owner If i can "use" his disused runway ๐Ÿ˜Š
  45. 1 point
    Quick update for anyone interested. I've now accumulated all the parts needed to get back on the road. So as I've got a week off, I thought I'd get it cleaned out of all the crap my female has stuffed into it, and get the inside sorted. I put in a new JVC Bluetooth radio, and after for attempts i got the centre back together. Moving backwards, I was deep in looking for the rear wheel hanger latch which I seem to have mistakenly throw away. Looking into the inner spare wheel well, I found it to be full to the brim with water. Not happy, but i suppose that's what happens when a car is left outside with leaking rear lights. The lights themselves were resembling a nice aquarium. After using my lads fish tank syphon to get the water out of the well, I have re-sealed the lights and used clear hot glue to seal any possible joint i could find. I'm hoping to get some tape to cover the gap between the body and the clusters to stop any water running that way. One thing I did find was that the evil person who put the securing nuts where they are should be put to death. Luckily I've found a supplier who can get a new latch from Japan, so all is not lost.
  46. 1 point
    measure the parasitic draw with vehicle locked and modules asleep . Ideally want a logging ability meter so can see instances where a module maybe waking up and pulling power . Anything over 60mA is too much, 35mA +- 10mA is more average . Even if drive it more or retains just enough charge to start your battery lifespan going be short due to discharge levels caused while inactive . It certainly a fault, no car would ever be designed have stationary parked current draw flatten a battery in 4 to 5 months let alone days . Your dealers response is ignorant at best, excuse not to get involved in a known difficult to resolve issue at worst ...
  47. 1 point
    Indeed - Subaru engines work extremely well with LPG, and yes you need Flashlube. You just top up the Flashlube bottle every 10 tanks of LPG and that solves any issues with valve wear. LPG does not cause an engine to run hot or damage piston rings. I previously had a 1996 BD7C Legacy 2.2 that did over 80,000 miles on LPG, and my current 2004 BPEA Outback 3.0Rn has been running LPG for the last 3000 miles with no issues. Other than the issue of only paying 49p a litre for fuel, and still getting over 30mpg on motorways that is :) My last car was a Vauxhall Vectra with a factory LPG system, and my wife's Honda CRV runs LPG. Unless you've got a direct injection engine, don't do many miles in a year or don't plan to keep the car for long, there are very few reasons not to convert to LPG. In mainland Europe LPG is incredibly common, especially Germany, Poland, Italy, Sweden and Holland. Cost of conversion for a four cylinder Subaru is around ยฃ1000-1200 for a good system and an experienced installer (add about ยฃ100 for a six cylinder). Given that LPG is currently less than half the cost of petrol, the average person will have saved that much in the first year.
  48. 1 point
    I think you need a system called Flash Lube or something like that to help stop your car having problems but from my own research all LPG installs come with that these days so not a big problem. Subaru also sold foresters with an LPG option at factory so sure its not as scary as people make out. That said I am in 2 minds myself, I might be getting it done though shall see what kind of milage I end up doing.
  49. 0 points
    Also comments were that the engine is extremely tired and on its last legs. Not in keeping with a fresh engine rebuild, one that has done 1000 miles. sensor replaced with a piece of metal, wheel bolts too short ..... could go on
  50. 0 points
    Discovered the geniuses that assembled the coilovers had set the car up for driving clockwise in a circle - instead of the springs being paired left to right they were paired front to back with 90NM on front and rear left and 70NM on right front and rear ๐Ÿคก๐Ÿคก๐Ÿคก

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