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I've got everything to rebuild all 4 corners now. So I can crack on, but i will have to battle the weather. Arches, shocker, driveshaft, steering rack, wheel hub, caliper all resprayed.

All waxed and polished,getting a service and suspension set up this week. Be on the road next Monday ❤️

I fitted my Perrin fmic yesterday Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Started the driver's side 😖😪 so much rust

Fitted LED DRL’s today (way too bright for night time 😳), wanted to fit LED fog light bulbs as well it’s a shame the body of the actual LED part was too big to fit through the hole of the reflector 😩 Also fitted some cheesy door lamps someone got me from wish, only double sided tape so easy to remove when I got bored of them.

Fixed a worn heat shield that was rattling against the exhaust and replaced rear diff front mount (weeping bearing) on the RX with the alloy version from the STI, a 0.75Kg weight saving Before OEM mild steel item with leaking bush Slight difference in shape due to the larger diff on the STI but mountings all line up STI alloy item in place with small gap in the cut out but as it is bolted to the unit itself I have no concerns

Piston slap is the noise you get before the forged pistons warm up and expand to fill the bores with a closer tolerance - it should go when the engine is up to temperature

Found one on the bay, have bought it, hope its a good un when it arrives. Thankyou for looking peoples.

It certainly pins you from 3.5k till 7.5k 😜 First pull was 285hp so the drive home was much more fun with a smooth 332hp

That is a smooth curve there for sure 👍

Well the actuator and time stopped play at 332.2hp at 1.4 bar 🙄. Well impressed with the turbo and with a stronger spring fitted , we're confident it will make more boost and power 😎. After fitting a weaker 0.6 bar spring mid map we found out I'd put too much pre tension on the actuator arm ,first time around which made it very difficult for the avcr to control boost . So hands up , it was my fault 🤐. Attowe did manage to control the boost fine up to 19 psi (just under 1.4bar) so the boost curve is much cleaner now than the previous graph . I will eventually fit a stronger spring but can't see the point in getting just that tweeked in, so will wait until the new year once the heads are fitted and get it all done at once . For now its running safely and pulls cleanly, for a big billet wheeled 20g it spools fairly good imo too . Right I've drunk all the milk ,so I'm off to take the scoob for a blatt... I mean get some more milk 😊

Part throttle fuelling adjustment atm

Hi I have just joined today, my car is a 22b which I have owned for 12 years, I am based in Essex and was wondering if there are any events that 22b cars attend or if there are any local 22b owners around, I'm based in Rochford Essex.

It's a decent piece of engineering though.

Some great motors there but not a fan of that supra too much form over function for me - was spoilt when the Top Secret supra was revealed and that tends to be my benchmark

I have heard other people state they would not put mitsomoto stuff on their car, now I see why. Luckily I only have the rad hoses. Glad you found the issue.

Hi all, Not new to Subaru, in fact the reason I’m coming back to one is purely because I miss my old 330s hatch (tuned to 400bhp) but I now require something practical and the XV seems to tick the boxes... Could someone point me in the right direction for a buyers guide or things to watch out for? I plan to test both Petrol and Diesel variants and I’ve read a few things on other sites (Pistonheads, other non UK forums) but would ideally prefer some input from the people who actually drive these on a daily basis. Thanks In advance for any feedback 🙂 (and here’s a shot of the old car)

She’s home! More pics tomorrow hopefully!

Looks brand new!

Me to - that is engineering take something and improve - If I was lucky enough to be able to buy an original cobra - the brakes would have a serious upgrade, originals stored nicely away

I’ve got Cross Climates SUV on my XV, brilliant in a word.

I have the gold brembos front and rear as mines a spec C . It's only one brembo at front I kinda need touched up. Looked like a whens come off at some point scraping it to hellill take a closer pic. I'm DD6 postcode. CBA doing rear lights so might just get someone to do that for me also. Hard to get perfect fit eh

We've got 2 Diesels. Ones up near 90K (13 plate) the other at 55k(61 plate). So far problems I've had are wheel bearings on the 90k I've done both rears, and need to do a front now. The 55k has not has any wheel bearing problems. Both have crap AC, I've just yesterday replaced the Condenser on the 55k car, haven't really tested to see if it's working yet, it uses the new r1234yf gas so it's expensive. So if your getting one from a garage get them to top it up for you. This is going to be a problem with any newer car, but just a warning. The 90k car scrubbed a set of tyres really quickly (10/12k maybe?) due to poor alignment from the garage, but they seem to be doing better on tyres now. I think I just got 27k out of a set of kuhmo grugens and they were still legal when I changed them. Both cars needed to go in to be checked for a wiring harness problem. The 55k car needed to have a replacement harness fitted (under warranty) but it's the only one I've heard of needing done. The bog standard cd/radio is pretty poor, but again, could just be signal in our area. I'm not sure about any of the sat nav versions. Other than these small faults, so far we have not had anything frightening. There are a few rattles and clunk's starting to appear, but I think that's down to the condition of our roads more than anything else. Hope you find a good one. Any more questions, let us know. Sent from my COR-L29 using Tapatalk

Its the 14th/15th buddy, would be good to see the freshly done motor coz its looking smart you've done well 👍

That is the type of garage space I aspire to 😍

Bought another alternator from a friend, after redrilling the mounting holes and making slightly smaller spacers for under the alternator relocation bracket...... finally a non screechy start up 😊. Also booked it in at Clive attowes next friday , so hopefully we'll find out if the arashi billet tdo5 20g will actually make any power 🤞 Attowe has suggested for me to fit a slightly weaker spring combination than the current 1.2 bar one .As although you'd think a stronger spring would help it hold the waste gate shut and make boost control eaiser 🤔 But it might actually mean the boost control solenoid duty has to be turned up really high , in order to operate the actuator diaphragm smoothly 😉

@savage bulldogs oh my 🥴 i really shouldn’t ask but do you know how much they would be after for the series McRae or any other early ones he might have that he wants to part with? You’re welcome to pm me if he doesn’t want it plastered all over the forum

Love evos aswell but scoobies always had more apeal for me maybe that says something about my personality but I dont care lol... Tidgy love it 😂

Tbh I do like Gary's rs , it's the closest evo to a classic ra that they made ,with windy windows, no abs or electrical witchcraft. Just a lightweight evo drivers car with a mapped 365hp . So I dare say it would be a close match between his and mine , well apart from top end .... as he has a short ratio jdm 5 speed and mines got a uk 6 speed 😊

With the mods you have made the map will be way out - @savage bulldogs uses a mapper a lot closer to you Colin Attowe in Norwich, I believe.... Here is some footage 😍 https://youtu.be/Lq1nLEtetok

Great picture mate your car looks amazing infront of that evo where it belongs 😉😂😂

Thanks Savage, feel a bit better about it at £9k now then. I do tend to always undersell my cars lol.

Gutted for you nick 😏 I'd love a white type r , something about a white classic that really floats my goat 😎 Think seeing as shoddy type r's are fetching £9k someone is gonna be very happy with yours , especially already having a dccd 6 speed and stronger engine . Best of luck with getting back on your feet financially and with the sale ,bud

Maaaate,this is amazing.Your engine bay looks something else. Mabey I will do a wee bit 🤔😂

Think I’m planning on running a fairly standard set up on her. I will be fitting a custom stainless pipe with 4” back box and a sneak head manifold. Dropped her on to her new coil overs last night. WOW!

First time on this forum, although I have been a member since late last year. Picked up a 2018 Forester with eyesight at the weekend which is my first Subaru but not my first 4x4 as I have owned : Suzuki Samurai, Vitara and Jimny, Honda HRV, Toyota Rav4, Land Rover Discovery TD5 and my last squeeze a Skoda Yeti. Looking forward to using the forum. Andy

She's looking smart!! Loud pipes save lives

Sunny bank holiday in Suffolk 😎 So I decided to get up early and fit the cdf alternator relocation kit, before it got too hot . Nothing wrong with the cdf kit but it doesn't fit my Frankenstein phase 1 inlet manifold 😏 As I'm running a phase 1.5 v3/v4 throttle body and it makes the alternator foul on the throttle linkage 🙄 Guessing I'll be cleaning and greasing the old alternator (to hopefully stop it squealing on start up) and refitting it with the relocation kit I made lol Shame as the cdf kit would've matched the billet cdf rails sweetly and I'm now getting a crispy redneck in the sun 😋

Hey all, been awhile since I posted here, I'm back with a new Scoob, had it a couple of months now and already some &**%&$* has scratched the front wing so I am looking for some pigment polish or wax to touch up the scratch. Any recommendations?

Too hot to do anything, but have been reading about a cooling modification for EJ207 cylinder 4 cooling. http://shop.getadomtune.com/shop.getadomtune.com/cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-system/ He has some solid research, and I've sourced the parts for £20 (dont tell him 😉) I may give it a bash.

Yea hopefully it’ll help out people in future. I finally got the switch changed today at SSS, the engine light has gone and hasn’t returned!!! Woohoo!! To be honest not sure what to do now. I really need some cash (I bought it at the wrong time really, I’m struggling financially, stupid decision) so may need to sell it and with having these issues straight away I’m already a bit !Removed! off with it. If I can’t sell for a decent amount though I will just have to try and get on top of it and save up for the other bits.

As sugest it clean it up and see whats going on, ps pumps are near on £500 just for the part 😮

you called,,,, haha wrx wont be a widetrack, and widetrack didnt come in till 2005, i think you need a new mechanic.

No probs bud ,hope it's a cheap fix fella . I find autoglym machine cleaner is fairly good ,as its water based . Just don't get too much cleaner in the direction of the cambelt cover or alternator. I recently had a oil leak on my caddy workhorse but I don't normally work on the van tbh so its bay is filthy . So I got the engine steam cleaned ,by the local "wash yer car boss" for a tenner , which might be easier than doing it yourself 😉

Hello - I'm very sorry but I've only just seen your message - I thought I'd set the forum to email me with replies but I've not seen it. They're from a 2005 WRX so I think that could have been a blobeye or a hawkeye (sorry i didn't see the donor car, it had already been stripped). Also I think the internal configuration may be the same anyway but I really couldn't be sure. Sorry I'm not of much use on this (I wanted the drivers' seat for my Foz so I didn't pay much attention at the time). But let me know if there any info I can give or photos that might narrow it down.

Cheers ,well over engineered but its getting there 😊 Although all the ally pipework has a swage or bump on every join , I will get round to getting some better clamps and matching blue joiners (it's tweaking OCD lol) ... well once I decide what I'm doing with the pipework 🤔 Since refitting a stock position cold side I've had to make do with what I had to hand to make it work .As I'd clocked the aps sr40 coldside to loose the u bend in the fmic pipework that runs over the hotside. So for now it's been twisted/ lifted away from the hotside as far as possible and has a straight black silicone joiner in it 😏 I'm thinking about maybe trying to reroute the turbo outlet fmic pipework clockwise around the bay .Then connect it to the current fmic to throttle body pipework by the battery/bottom rad hose . This means I'd have to convert the current fmic intake pipework to connect to the reversed inlet throttle body and run the core in reverse 🤔 Only a idea at this stage but it would mean the fmic pipework wouldn't run over the hotside (less heatsoak ,maybe) and I could cut out more fmic pipework by losing the pipework that runs from fmic core ,under the wheel arch and through the inner wing . Might also try to step up to a bigger diameter bore ally pipe on the turbo inlet tract sooner ,as at the moment it's stock size from turbo inlet all the way to the maf. I know the stock turbo inlet neck will always be restrictive but you never know it might help flow . For now I've turned the boost target down to 1.3 bar and I'm only getting a bit of overboost to 1.35 in 4th through to 6th . Spoke to Clive attowe today about which of the 18 settings for actuator strength he'd like me to start with by haven't got a clue when I'll find the time to book in a dyno tweek atm 😏

And that’s when it snowballs,your car ends up off the road for a year and a half and you end up skint 😂.

I'm no expert & maybe someone can answer better than me, but when you decat a remap is needed otherwise it can cause issues, if the air filter is standard it may be ok but if both are changed it will deffo need one as the air/fuel mix will change, Unless you have some paperwork determining this will be hard as the 97/98 cars are a ball ache (I'm in the same boat) subaru decided to make the ecu virtually impossible to crack so you need an aftermarket stand alone ecu or a duaghterboard inserted into the original subaru ecu to be able to map, easiest way to check is lift the carpet in the passenger foot well and see what you have, the esl daughterboard won't be visible but an aftermarket one will stand out, Is scooby bits located in your part of the world ? Maybe worth popping by and having a word,

Glad it was a easy fix fella [emoji41] Did you do a ecu reset ? ( think the code check guide covers it) Early classic's (pre 96) have the o2 sensor just before the upipe , are you sure it's not been relocated to there or further down the downpipe ? I think standard boost shouldn't be anymore than 0.9 bar on a 97 sti . if it's more than that and there's no sign of a manual boost controller, it's probably been remapped. I'd get on a local rolling road as for the sake of £50 it will let you know everything's running ok .