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  1. Welcome, I also have a 92 k reg with the same model code, they are the first edition impreza also referred to as v1 or version 1, they come with a closed deck engine block from factory which is stronger than the later open deck block, my car has alloy front bottom arm's which are also on the sti version however I'm not sure if they come as standard from new or not, I also have an alloy bonnet and there's not a lot of sound proofing in the car, you are right though there are not many left on the road here in the UK most of them are just getting broken for spares now which is a real shame but I
    4 points
  2. Hello all, Just thought I would day hello and introduce myself. I'm Dan I currently live in Nottingham and have a classic import WRX to make pretty again (standard pretty) and also a hawkeye WRX for a daily. I love imprezas always have from my first UK 2000 years ago, Thats about it really!
    4 points
  3. Not much of a update but I've backed off the actuator arm pre tension and that seems to have brought the afr in closer to where I'd like it 😎 I'd also changed the angle of the turbo intake pipework but since found out the adjustment had caused the pipe to rub on the bonnet πŸ™„ So I had a search through the box of joiners and ally pipework I have to hand and have added a 90Β° silicone elbow and a slightly shorter angled piece of pipe . This has repositioned the filter in a better place to get cold air too 😎 So couple of pics of new intake pipework route . And
    4 points
  4. Hello all, New Member alert!! I have just purchased a beautiful 56 plate Impreza Wagon WRX 2.5ltr and I love it already. It has a Nurspec R exhaust, dump valve, remap, 18 Fox alloys, upgraded horn and 40mm lowering springs. Looking forward to some very fun miles...
    3 points
  5. As suggested a little build thread for my 1998 UK classic β€œrestore”. I’m more into my German metal currently owning a Mk1 Golf and soon to be joined by another Polo G40 having owned one before and found another and the daily is an Audi S1. Not really been passionate about Scoobies really either I prefer subtle cars (although 4 !Removed! pipes on the S1 isn’t really subtle). Anyway I saw this Scooby on Autotrader and thought when will I get another chance to own one like this? Car is completely original, no mods, and done 60k miles. So on to the restore; well I say β€œrestore” but
    3 points
  6. Just refurbishing my alloys for my gc8. So far the prep is going well.
    3 points
  7. Soon as the snow was gone I decided to give it a quick rinse over and take it for a essential "spin dry " Started to dry it off by hand a bit and soon noticed blisters in the paint ,about 30 on the roof alone Some down the drivers side rear 1/4 and on the front bumper It was painted by a reputable company that does bmw main stealer paintwork 3 years ago this april . So thought I'd take it to the body shop that carried out the paintwork , just to see if he had any idea why this happened and how much to put it right . The paint shop is owned by Rick Kerr
    3 points
  8. unfortunately environment and H&S good excuses to make cheaper products and they can make more money not just through cost reduction but through fact you need 2 or 3X the replacements due to short service life (great for environment is all that extra service parts and packaging) . Don't get started on electric handbrakes lol, classic stupidity partly to cause complexity and make you need use professional services and require more equipment and service/repair data . Amazing thing as well is most vehicle owners will have no idea how use their electric brake in an emergency Lot of hass
    3 points
  9. car stereo aerial cable?
    3 points
  10. Yes, secondary air pump. Useless thing. Hopefully the valves are closed, if so, just remove the relevant fuses and get the code mapped out. This will explain it: https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/secondary-air-pump-failure-my-solution.381954/
    3 points
  11. This is the new daily (The in-laws 88 toyota camry has had another failure so the RX {Delilah} will be transferred to them as originally planned) and Dotty (See other thread) will be my project (Previous discussions were around me having a 2 door classic more track orientated spec and build) I am under strict instructions that this is to remain close to an original spec to clear speed humps, pot holes in the car park when visiting hairdresser etc. Still working through compiling the spec but this is what I have so far 82k on the shell so needs some correction in places Ringland
    3 points
  12. not much has happened,few new spare parts have arrived,,mainly fittings and fixings,,its has been 22years on from new......took dolly out for a drive to go and pickup some alloy wheels...v1 wrx wheels 6x15" but in very good clean condition as you can see had fun fun fun down a dirt road today aswel πŸ˜€ roll on spring so i get some welding done....only major part to do now
    3 points
  13. Fitted me new injectors today what a fiddly job (having sausage fingers don’t help) lol they were a right pig to get out😀
    3 points
  14. Got home on Sunday, taking every opportunity to get out and drive now!
    3 points
  15. BBC been lost many years ago. Also the death rate is BS too. In the US hospitals get paid more for Covid patient than not, hence their numbers are seriously wrong. The race to sell 8 billion vaccines. Get well soon
    3 points
  16. Hmmmm, ok. Well from what you just wrote, I would do a compression test & leak down test. You would need to get a mobile mechanic in to do this if your not confident in doing that. Get all the details wrote down before he leaves. Before you mentioned the low compression I was thinking it sounds like the coilpack metal (x3 in each) connectors INSIDE the black plastic connector. iv seen this issue a few times now, where coilpacks are diagnosed, but it's the connectors not making a good connection. This COULD have been the original problem. the more they are
    3 points
  17. Hi @Jay762 I have started one for all to see got a few things going on thanks to @savage bulldogs got is apexi and 550cc injectors to be fitted and just bought I fuel pressure gauge hopefully I get a chance next weekend Weather permittingπŸŒžβ˜”οΈ
    3 points
  18. Please keep reporting if you get one, your friendly moderators are banning any account posting those messages we seem to be under spam attack from what seem to be Russian ip's. We are sorry for the inconvenience and annoyance. I personally get every report and if I'm awake I will take swift action. πŸ‘
    3 points
  19. So a 2.30 am start yesterday to drive off boost to Plymouth to see Martyn @Enginetuner πŸ€ͺπŸ˜₯. 5hrs , 330 miles and one tank of fuel later I arrived and he got to work fitting the link knock sensor he supplied, then showed me round his workshop /premises 😎 Then got stuck in with a fresh base map and started to add boost , quick vid of him working his magic on my old girl . With the maf deleted and the ramair filter, she sounds pretty epic imo ,as for anti lag and launch... that just sounds pure filth 😍 I'll take a vid of that at some point too but was the 630 mile
    3 points
  20. Did a bit more prep by extending the air intake temp sensor wires , so they reach all the way to the ECU. Big thanks to @Jay762 for sending me some of these heat shrink wire joiners , never knew they existed πŸ‘ So much eaiser just using my trusty zippo , rather than firing up the soldering iron 😎 I'll slip heat shrink some bigger dia tubing over the join too before working out a route through the bay to the ECU. I'm currently running the apexi f.c map lead add on and 1.7 bar v3 onwards map sensor but the oe 1.2 bar map sensor is still plugged into the harness .
    3 points
  21. I had 3 parcels turn up today 😎 Linkg4x v1/V2 plug in ECU , link 3 bar map sensor, ramair filter with spun trumpet and a air intake temperature sensor 😊 So guess I'd better familiarize myself with the new link g4x software and swat up on how to wire in the a.i.t and my aem wideband to a link g4x πŸ˜‰
    3 points
  22. You're welcome. Leave a comment here once he does the job so that everyone else can see the recommendations. I'm booking him next month to fit a new rear bumper, auxiliary belt / pulleys and front brakes. I also want to use him to fit an exhaust and a new turbo in the near future. As I said, top bloke. In regards to the exhaust guys, I just gave them a call and they will fit a stainless steel exhaust on my legacy with lifetime guarantee, from centre all the way to the rear with back boxes for Β£445 or Β£500 as a worst case scenario if they can't reuse the catback. This is the price I was lookin
    3 points
  23. Tim (SUBBUS) came exactly at the specified time - I'm OCD about punctuality so this was a great start. Having spoken to him, he put me in confidence as, like everyone else states on forums, he really knows his cars; I can't say the same when I spoke to mechanics at Subaru Cambridge main dealer. Currently changing the diff oil, gearbox filter, gearbox oil, plugs (full service) and also checking on my brakes as I suspect the pins are seizing. Also managed to tell me exactly what the front left knock was all about, which turned out to be the anti roll bar drop links. So far he has been amazing
    3 points
  24. Pesonaly i would go with the heavy duty ones, they will be a different material hence the 'heavy duty'. bear in mind if you stiffen up the roll bar the next weakest component will get extra flex, which may well be the drop link, also you may find the bush's are on the way out on the drop links.
    3 points
  25. Proh rocker cover gasket, pretty common but get it done asap
    3 points
  26. Well, it's gone. This morning we pushed it out onto the road as I'd left the handbrake off, and loaded onto the truck. That's going to be cambelt, water pump, tensioner, coil packs, plugs, full service, brakes all round, and whatever else is found wanting.
    3 points
  27. Took out the aftermarket "high flow stat " and took a couple of pics to compare it a oe stat shape and bore size . Surprisingly the one on the right is supposed to increase "flow" and the one on the left is oe . The oe one has more movement on the diaphragm and a bigger bore plunger, so to me it looks like the aftermarket one is more restrictive and would probably only increase pressure πŸ™„ This is to try and explain why I always use a stationary heat cycle process when running engines in , although a lot of "professional engine builders " dont . So I always us
    3 points
  28. Deserving wash Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    3 points
  29. Turned the key to first stage a few times to prime the fuel system and check for fuel leaks . Cranked it over and ...... 😊😊πŸ₯³ Keeping a eye on coolant levels and checking for any fluid leaks for the first 5 mins , oil pressure and temps look good . I heat cycle my engines stationary for a few days and then drop the oil and refresh before driving anywhere. So seeing as it's only got 10 w 40 mineral oil in atm , it sounds quite quiet for a 2.1 forged bottom end on cold start 😎 Once up to temp on the first heat cycle , I noticed a sligh
    3 points
  30. Well I've had a busy fortnight but have done everything I can do ,till I get the helicoiled water pump and exhaust manifold studs /nuts turn up . Everything is cleaned, prepped and ready to fit , so just the turbo core to sort . Obviously you can't go unbolting the turbine wheels from the shaft ,the expect to just simply bolt them back on and be balanced correctly but the cores come pre balanced , so this is simply me swapping the balanced cores over . After undoing the vband and actuator, I removed the hotside ,soaked it in white Sprit, then petrol and finally brake cleaner to re
    3 points
  31. measure the parasitic draw with vehicle locked and modules asleep . Ideally want a logging ability meter so can see instances where a module maybe waking up and pulling power . Anything over 60mA is too much, 35mA +- 10mA is more average . Even if drive it more or retains just enough charge to start your battery lifespan going be short due to discharge levels caused while inactive . It certainly a fault, no car would ever be designed have stationary parked current draw flatten a battery in 4 to 5 months let alone days . Your dealers response is ignorant at best, excuse
    3 points
  32. Hi all Can't believe I forgot to join the club after spending a fair amount of time on the forum before I got my own. Based in Bucks, you may see her rolling on the road. Shout if you have already, had it for around 6 months. Feel like it's an odd time to join with all that's going on. Better late than ever, stay safe all! Here she is: Impreza 93 WRX Import
    3 points
  33. She's arrived! I've had a drive and my initial thoughts are that it's an exceptionally smooth drive,it's got ample get up and go,the gearbox is far,far better than the mags would have you believe and the stereo is brilliant both in sound quality and usability. I'll do a proper report once I've had her a while but I'm very pleased up to now.
    3 points
  34. Here are my Classic Wagon and Levorg GT, Both amazing cars to drive for totally different reasons! The classic wagon is like a go-kart, point it in the direction you want to go, hold on, floor the throttle and off you go! The Levorg is bit slower of the mark but get up to 20-30mph and put it in sport mode and there is an inner Impreza waiting to play!
    3 points
  35. This weekend we have gone from thisto this
    3 points
  36. Compared to our Landcruiser (a completely different system with electric pump for brake assistance) yes the typical Forester brakes feel poor in comparison. I don't think this is a fault as such its just that where so many modern cars are overservoed, Subarus are more old fashioned in that regard requiring more pedal pressure, no trouble stopping our Forester but it requires probably twice the pedal pressure required in other overservoed or overassisted vehicles, i prefer that to the too soft braking of the Toyota but my wife prefers the other way round, by the way the handbrake is excell
    2 points
  37. Thanks for the replies. I'm glad my old man didn't decide to sell it off cheap then. I'll get some pics over the next few days. Will try and get her fired up and running. He said the fuel pump has packed up. Will need a set of brakes and a body repair on the boot (corroded on lower part). Definitely worth keeping original.
    2 points
  38. 4 years later, rebuilt and forged. bigger turbo, injectors, induction kit, fmic, 6 speed swap and lots more induction was getting a lot of heat soak, have added a cold air feed and barrier from the turbo but not been back on dyno yet
    2 points
  39. Sf5 Forester. 2002. 2.1stroker. Cdb. Brass rings. Rcm omega pistons. Manley rods. Nitrided 2.5 crank. Dual thrust bearings. 14/12 head studs. 2.5 killer b oil pick up. 11mm oil pump uprated valve. killer b crank windage tray. fuji racing sump baffle plate. Razor sharp knife edged inlet dividers, gasket matched. Cosworth 10mm o-ring thermal spacers. tgv flaps & bar deleted, divider removed, gasket matched & polished. 1050cc id's. fuel rails & hoses. pfr7's. Modine deleted. 2 port water
    2 points
  40. LoL. youll av to get your tape measure out I'm afraid, to measure the gap u have so u can then determine the spacer size for the gap u want it to be. Spacers thinner than 15mm thick will require longer aftermarket studs. Spacers that are 15mm thick or over have their own studs built in, come with nuts to put on the oem studs that, if thinner than 25mm will need cutting shorter. & if you do decide to get spacers then make sure that they are hub centric ones.
    2 points
  41. felt quicker gettin rid of cats
    2 points
  42. 2 points
  43. well,,not as bad as i thought is was goner be.....few piece to be made up and also reinforce the jacking point,,,inside i also so good,light rust in places but spray kurust down it and all is covered nicely but il do another spray worth now its gone off and managed to get a air filter 3d printed air intake adapter(pic to follow)
    2 points
  44. Thanks Jay πŸ‘, it has been a labour of love and a lot of late nights and weekends but it's all been worth it, i still have a few more things on the to do list to get it where i would like it to be but i will keep updating this thread as i go along
    2 points
  45. Yeah man I won't be going over 16psi and I don't want to go much higher than 300hp. We have found the issue, the throttle cable was too tight and the MAF was in the wrong way πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈπŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ
    2 points
  46. Haven't done much to the scooby lately, other than drive and enjoy it 😊 Did pop out on fathers day for a little b road blatt and upset a s5 v6t on a slip lane pull . My daughter took a little vid of a national speed limit pull for her "insta" So thought I'd chuck it on the build thread ,excuse the defi alarm going off . it's set at 1.5 bar and the car currently makes 1.55 bar but i suppose it does show how quickly it hits peak boost after a gear change 😊
    2 points
  47. They are very rare now there is only two left on the road I have two so there will be another for sale on here soon
    2 points
  48. Tested the Taxtrix today and can log with BtSsm
    2 points
  49. Doh yeah thermostat , that's day drinking for ya . Here's a pic of the front of the engine for reference And with the cover on , thermostat is accessible Waterpump is driven by the timing belt unfortunately
    2 points
  50. Drivers sill now finished
    2 points



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