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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/20/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Base coat applied,getting its colour put on today!
  2. 3 points
    Cheers chap, hopefully I wont need one but if I do that's a pretty cheap solution πŸ‘ As for what am I doing to my subaru today πŸ˜‰
  3. 2 points
    I've collected my wheels today they are in paint code GK1 They are a subtle gold, more of a caramac colour, which I prefer. Top is new Bottom is old The pictures do nothing for them, they have been done to a brilliant standard, and every detail has been discussed and checked before completion. Thanks to BCS Automotive Nottingham
  4. 2 points
    All painted,flatten and polish to follow.
  5. 2 points
    Treated myself to these 2 for my incoming BH5
  6. 2 points
    Hi Rob, I've decided to sell my 2.5 XT Fozzie, so if you are in the market for a modified Subaru, which looks quite unique, please let me know. Here is a pic.
  7. 1 point
    Hi all, been a member on here for a while but probably not as active as others! Anyway enough Bull****, I finally got the subaru on the road and tested today and can't believe what I've been missing. Took 5yr but worth it just for the grin factor alone.
  8. 1 point
    once checked switch wiring and power earths values (can also ohm test the heater elements) then good way go is used seat, even if strip down you can't repair element only wiring to it and seat cushion switch. As a shop I can't strip them as becomes too costly be viable and no way know if even repairable so replacing seat way to go in cost and turn around .
  9. 1 point
    its pure pot luck tbh, some take a beating and keep on ticking, some get babied and fail if you look at them wrong, Does mean you can pick them up cheap with a failed engine and then have engine built to your spec so no issues later.
  10. 1 point
    The Mrs makes bath bombs and bubble bars, she had a 5kg tub. Its brilliant stuff
  11. 1 point
    I wasnt happy with my rusty discs showing after putting on new wheels. So I soaked them in a citric acid bath for 4 hours and painted the centre sections gloss black.
  12. 1 point
    Its been a while since posted here, car developed ringland few weeks ago with 1 cracked ringland. The amount of time and effort I have put in getting her like I want I decided to rebuild. Its currently with Andy Williams at WMS being forged. Along with a few other mods: Forged Build Scoobyworx 3 port boost solenoid Omni 4 Bar map sensor Precision turbo 5530 Sti intercooler Exedy Pink Box Stage1 Clutch cant wait to get it back, next on the list will be 6 speed upgrade
  13. 1 point
    Removed the headlights on the Legacy and polished them up. Some sanding then compound followed by few coats of wax. Gave this and the missus motor a good scrub up. Excuse the colour differences as taken on two different cameras. Need to get the front grill altered/painted and see if I cant do something with that paint scuff, been on there since I bought the motor.
  14. 1 point
    I haven't got a clue what spec it is and have never seen it in the flesh .Afaik Darren at abw did the work to, showcase his parts and he makes some quality stuff . someone fairly local used to own it and Think its changed hands a few times since being built , so not sure how good it is now . Don't let that put you off though, if you like it go and see it for yourself to find out if it's still in good condition.
  15. 1 point
    Fingers crossed 🀞
  16. 1 point
    Manifold is unequal and it does give the burble - this will be retained πŸ‘ Ill follow up with Alyn - cheers
  17. 1 point
    Have you got any service history with it ? If a shock or bearing had been replaced for maintenance it might not have been re aligned? Although there's plenty of tread is there any difference in the amount of tread on the inner or outer edges ? I had a full corner weighted geo set up done to my spec for Β£150 , so a 4 wheel alignment check should be a lot cheaper. At least you'd be able to rule out alignment issues too . Either way it doesn't sound right as these cars normally feel more planted than most other cars , due to the awd and low center of gravity boxer layout .
  18. 1 point
    Yeah slip joints do blow until they've become hot enough for the metal to expand and seal . They're good though ,as they allow movement during heat cycles, which in turn reduces stress on welds and flanges πŸ˜‰ As for you jay...... Unequal length manifold (get her burbling like a scooby should) . Harvey trick up pipe matched to the size of your headers and turbo , too increase spool πŸ˜‰ Speak to Alyn at Asperformance as he has the rights to "Harvey up pipes" and info on what size you'd need . If you need anymore help spending your money on scooby parts .... I'll gladly help you as my wife can't moan at me for spending YOUR money 😊
  19. 1 point
    I had a slip jointed up pipe on my WRX, bought it from @savage bulldogs. Put some fresh heat wrap on it and it worked perfectly fine. Could hear it ever so slightly blowing on really cold days but stops after a minute or so.
  20. 1 point
    check for play in joints as suggested then get an alignment check done - check tyre pressures also - too high and this will cause them to slide and spin up easier
  21. 1 point
    @savage bulldogs @gemlp82 @Sclark01 @scottrobo23 if you want to come i am taking payments now to book the stand as soon as i get some payments i will book it for anyone else that wants to come let me know and i will add you to the list
  22. 1 point
    Bung above cylinder no 3 ,is definitely the best place for oil temp readings, the one behind the alternator is normally where oil pressure sensor is fitted bud
  23. 1 point
    Thanks for the information I’ll check the cage it’s factory because the dash and door trim are moulded around the bars. is this a collectible model?
  24. 1 point
    πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ Smells more like a pile of money burning!
  25. 1 point
    I'm routing for you mate. Keep up the good work 😎
  26. 1 point
    Time to start doubling up on clamps, at that boost you bound to pop a few pipes off. Engine bay is starting to look really good by the way, love the aircraft grade quick connectors and braided lines!
  27. 1 point
    RAC or other inspections generally a waste of money unless you completely unable do basic checks . Looks like they cut the flange joints out the back boxes to rear y pipe . Patching it up was the cheap option for dealer, going be a job down road for new owner. Stainless rear boxes and y pipe/centre pipe likely be 400 to 500 I expect due to bit extra complexity/parts .
  28. 1 point
    Proppa roasting in sunny Suffolk yesterday ,so I have a red neck and possible sunstroke but ..... i also have a new turbo fitted 😊 Fitting seemed to go easily, without any modifications needed . I pulled the ignition fuse and cranked it over a few times to make sure it was primed with oil , set up some low targets and duty on the avcr and took it for a test run . All seemed good so I decided to switch the avcr back over to the original high boost setting for the old aps sr40 (gt28r) . The old gt28r only occasionally used to hit the peak 1.6 bar it was targeted for in 4th and above (on a cold day) . Did a few part throttle pulls while monitoring afr and knock and all seemed good . Made my way to a slip lane and did a 3rd gear pull ,thinking the most it would make would be about 1.5 bar ..... 1.74 bar and it went like a stabbed rat 😲😜 Although afr and the apexi peak levels were good I'm gonna back the boost duty and targets off a bit ,until i manage to find the time to get attowe to work his magic So far ,so good and of course heres a few pics πŸ˜‰
  29. 1 point
    Well top Mark's for DHL, Frankfurt on Wednesday night, on my doorstep in Suffolk on Thursday afternoon 😊 First impressions of the arashi turbo are that it's been well made , all the machined surfaces are well finished and not burred. Every nut and bolt has engineer's paint on ,which is normally used once a fixing has been torqued to mark the position of the nut . There was a fair bit of stuff in the fitting kit ,which all appears to be good quality... Turbo outlet and uppipe studs/nuts , numerous different strength springs for the billet actuator, oil line with banjo bolts and gaskets . I never use anything but Subaru exhaust gaskets but the gaskets themselves look better quality than oe ,with a couple of more layers and a polished finish . There's also a core balance sheet ,so hopefully it's been balanced and a serial number id card along with some other info . I think we've are mugged off in the UK for the price of turbos and hopefully the arashi will be reasonable quality but only time and a dyno tweek will tell . So here's a few pics for now πŸ˜‰
  30. 1 point
    rear inner arch/turret rust can be bad and indeed sometimes can look perfect but tap them with small hammer or something and you soon know they bad/thin . Forester SG can be bad on inner arch/turrets as the reduced metal thickness in those panels as part of weight reduction changes. They go at seams, strengthening rib directly behind the strut, seat belt anchor point and where joins into sill . The inner sills and body mount area for trailing arms can get scabby too. Rear subframe comes a common failure on older subaru's or ones used in poor conditions and no decent prevention or cleaning . Subframe is easy fix but not cheap if can't do it yourself . Do check front subframes too and front lower wishbones . I see hell of a lot of foresters and outbacks, many 15 to 20 years old and in general they have minimal issues and have pretty easy MOT's . The oem cv boots even ones under cat ( forester same O/S) last well over a decade, good quality replacements (ones made in Japan generally) fit and last much the same and they cheap and easy fit and not going be repeat issue unless using junk parts. Corrosion is about biggest thing can get caught out on and can be hard spot so be thorough and do just look you got tap the panels and dig around muddy clogged seams to know for sure . waxoyl or similar products applied to underbody, inner panels and suspension parts with some thought and care makes huge difference long term . Do also remember rear SLS struts can get fatigued so if see a sagging rear end they be the issue . over all not much worry about if take little time and stick with a nice clean car, we currently got a 2002 2.5 outback at 120K that picked up private local sale for 1K, thing is close to perfect, not a fan of the 2.5 but car that faultless even if had head gaskets needing doing it be worth doing as they such great practical reliable wagons . Fair few good ones out there, just take time and don't be afraid pay little more for real clean care as for sure you get your moneys worth and then some on a proper clean/tidy older subaru .
  31. 1 point
    Corrosion wise, the Forester has had an easy life corrosion not an issue, though i have extensively rustproofed it anyway with Bilt Hamber's finest. The Outback was obviously a much older and cheaper car, but apart from exhaust the only real rust was on the rear subframe, again i de-rusted that and rustproofed it and it never was an issue again, but i hasted to add neither car had lived in Scotland. The biggest issue with all Japanese cars is how susceptible to salt corrosion the brake calipers are, so bank on fully stripping cleaning and lubing those on any car you get, standard Brembo discs and pads are reasonably priced at ECP, especially when they have a sale on online, and they have improved the braking on every vehicle i have fitted them to. One thing i forgot to mention about 3 litre Outbacks, or at least the up to 03 models, the cats sit just below the inner drive shaft couplings and the heat from them will cause early failure of the rubber boots, fortunately these cars were made to be worked on in such areas and the drive shafts fully dismantle quite easily so new boots and regrease is an easy sat morn job. If you take a torch and peer down from above at the rear of the engine both sides you should be able to see the inner boots when checking a vehicle over. Hope you find yourself a good one, as you mention prices are all over the shop.
  32. 1 point
    The problem with Subarus, and Landcruisers the same, is that so many of them spent their early years in Scotland and the North, where salt damage is much worse, and unfortunately few people realise the car exists underneath so never even bother to hose the salt out at the end of winter, neglected vehicles in such an environment won't last long. The other issue with such vehicles down south, is have they been used for boat launching, so have the back end dipped in salt water every few weeks. A few years ago they started to put the addresses of MOT stations on the MOT history, but that has since stopped, pity, it made avoiding Scottish vehicles much easier, so now you're relying on the service history alone to work out where the car spent it's time unless its a one owner jobbie. My advice is don't be in a rush, my present Landcruiser and the good lady's Forester we were not even looking to buy either, i just happen to have kept an eye on the ads, both Trader and Ebay motors, and both of the present cars stood out as being good examples of exactly what we wanted. For individual cars like these you have to be prepared to travel, and quickly, the Toyota in particular good examples get snapped up quickly because there's a lot of neglected rusty underbody examples out there and i've driven 150 odd miles to look at supposedly pristine examples only to be back in my car within 5 minutes of seeing the misdescribed thing, haven't even opened the doors or bonnet in some cases, luckily it was a Monday and my rest days usually fall on a Mon, so we shot 75 miles pronto and bought mine the same morning it went online, had been traded in for a new motorhome and for sale at the same place and all my boxes were ticked. So long as you've got some transport for the time being i'd wait until the right car crops up, it will appear but you might have to wait several months, but be prepared to move very quickly when the right one comes up.
  33. 1 point
    if both seats not working and on both heat levels then it probably not heating elements or the seat sensor faulty unless one bad seat blowing circuit protection . If seat element faulty or the seat sensor it generally easier/cheaper pick up a used working seat . things to look at are if seat heat switch illuminates as if not the first issue is control side or power. if switches show life then it either seat or wiring (wiring can get damaged if people sticking stuff under seats or bt rear passengers feet)
  34. 1 point
    I'm following this with interest. I'm also looking for a 2.0l petrol, manual Forester. I think it will need to be 2008 onwards though. All the pre-2006 I've looked at have MOT failures for serious corrosion (no doubt fixed up to pass MOT). I'm looking for a car with minimal rust underneath but sadly all the older ones seem bad for rust. I'm also keen to get the 2-ton towing capacity from the post 2008 models. Please keep us updated Don.
  35. 1 point
    To give you an idea we paid a grand more than that for a 2008 with 27k miles probably 18 months ago.
  36. 1 point
    First full coat of primer done, and all areas susceptible to rust been treated also.
  37. 1 point
    Well the rough quote for for the turbo rebuild was Β£350 , so seeing as it only cost me Β£150 in the first place , I dropped it off for them to have a look at and hopefully get a upgrade as well as a rebuild . Once they'd took it apart they then called me and said it would be close to Β£1k to rebuild instead ,due to the Garrett ball bearing core πŸ€”πŸ€¨βœŒ. So I went and picked it up and its currently sat in the scooby scraps shed in a box 😏. So after loads of searching and research ing for a cheaper option ,I've decided to go with a arashi tdo5 billet 20g with a polished and ported 7cm housing. Yeah, I know it's no Garrett and the haters are probably gonna hate πŸ™„ I've spent a bit on the "project" over the years but its been done over a long period and the whole thing still comes in just under Β£6k (including the purchase of the v1sti ) . So after seeing nothing but good reviews, I thought I'd give the Β£600 turbo a go . Knowing that if it does eventually need a rebuild it will cost a fraction of the Garrett gt28r ,as it's a journal based turbo . According to the tracking its currently in the DHL Frankfurt hub , so it should be here soon and I'll post some pics and see how well it looks like its been made when it gets here 😊
  38. 1 point
    Nice work lad!
  39. 1 point
    Impreza 2007 hawkeye does not leave much leg room behind a 6ft driver. Doable but not comfortable. Rear leg room is small due to large front seats. Bigger Subaru would be more suitable for your needs as you describe them. The Fozzie looks nice.
  40. 1 point
    Hi savage, pullers were a bargain mate just over Β£40 brilliant I had to make a plate to go over the wheel studs tho . https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264017406153
  41. 1 point
    Wifey has gone from a 2002 H6 Outback, to a 2008 2.5 XT Forester. Outback softer ride, quieter, more refined, solidly planted on the road, no matter what the weather if you've got decent tyres on the car will just do whatever you ask of it. XT faster, much noisier inside, harder ride, more nimble but can feel a little skittish in comparison to the glued to the road Outback, due to the estate section being square there seems as much room in the boot as the Outback for the dogs. Not a great deal of difference in fuel costs, we had both converted to LPG which they run well on. Exhausts for H6 are not cheap, we ended up getting a full stainless system fitted for less than the cost of the genuine by-pass silencer (on the pre 03 model), there is no correct aftermarket standard system available for the 3.0 litre up to 03 that i could find, sellers try to pass off the 2.5 silencer as the same, they aint.
  42. 1 point
    Spanking now thats a word i like lol Be good to see beasty as intended and fingers crossed that tub will bring you a few more ponies and a big smile on your face :-)
  43. 1 point
    Gave up getting the gt28r with the popped seals rebuilt, quote started off at Β£350 😎 .... after inspection the cost went up to nearly Β£1,000 wtf πŸ€ͺ😏. So today I bought a brand new billet wheeled tdo5 20g instead 😊
  44. 1 point
    Met up with a good mate of mine and went to a local retro car meet . Was nice to finally drive the v1sti again 😎 His evo6 rs is a lovely example , who says evo and scooby owners can't get on 😊 If its rapid ,retro and petrol, generally I like it πŸ˜‰
  45. 1 point
    First coat of blue,both sides.
  46. 1 point
    Fixed. It was the Subaru immobilizer in the end FFS...
  47. 1 point
    I know the roads are bad up here but I’ve managed to stick to tarmac and the occasional bit of grass πŸ˜‚ Weekends work
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Hi guys just a wee update on how things are coming along. Car totally stripped now and all welding now done. New own front wings prime red along with spoiler,all trim and new front splitter ready to be aligned next week then into the paint shop. Car is then booked in for a full custom made de-cat stainless system with an uneven snakehead. Taken me the best part of a year to get to this point and I must admit I cannot wait to get it back on the road. Still looking for any previous history/owners so if anyone out there knows the car I would love to hear from yous.
  50. 1 point
    I think my old 5zigen jasma system was the loudest and dirtiest sounding set up I've heard. All my mates loved it and 1 said that "if my car was a film star it would be a spit roasted buxom blonde on !Removed! tube " Still Dunno if that's a complement or not but I have changed for something a little bit more subtle now anyways.

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