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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/24/2021 in all areas

  1. I've recently had the same issue through the Subaru website trying to get a price quote for an accessory (sump guard) from Ullswater Subaru. That's 3 weeks ago and not even an automatic acknowledgement email. I wonder if it's the Subaru website - the one that forces you to use the online contact form? I've found phoning the dealerships directly better. Regarding servicing, I telephoned half a dozen or so a few months ago, just out of interest for the cost of the first service (1 yr 12,000 miles). Most were asking (for the Outback) around £250, with the exception of the dealership in Alnwick which was £150 (I double checked that too). More recently, I was speaking to a member of staff at the Dales Subaru stand at the Westmorland Show the other week. Seemed very pleasant. Skipton (Barnoldswick) would be a couple of hours for you? About the same for me. The two more locally based Subaru dealerships (Darlington and Penrith) are new franchises and I wonder about lack of Subaru servicing experience. Mine's due a service in December. I usually use an independent garage I trust, but I think I might go Subaru dealership first this time and see what's what. Let us know how you get on Andy.
    2 points
  2. Hi mate the coilpack conversion is pretty straight forward, I managed to do it easily and I'm no sparky, I used this site for guidance, https://www.jamessimpson.co.uk/classic-impreza-new-age-coil-pack-conversion/ Hope this helps 👍
    2 points
  3. Am pleased to be able to say that Subaru replaced the condenser as a goodwill gesture with the new part number at zero cost to myself. My thanks to the dealership who pushed the case through. Have now mamanged a 1000 "cool" miles - very pleasant.
    2 points
  4. Thanks Jay. Checking out a US forum I found that when the cars with auto-levelling headlights are being transported on the back of a truck or similar, it can thrown the auto adjusters out. Apparently, they are supposed to self-adjust 'after a period of time', of driving, with the time not being specified. There's a memo from Subaru to dealers telling them how to sort this which involved messing around with fuses and the like, and running through a routine of switching the lights on and off with ignition and off and so forth. But also, helpfully, this video was posted too Auto Self-levelling headlight adjustment - manual which shows a 2020 OB. If the problem persists (i.e. doesn't magically sort itself out) I'll have to give this a go, or call Subaru assist and let them get their hands dirty.
    2 points
  5. Hi. I say keep it close and chip away at it little by little. I have a Uk 2000 turbo too. It’s a 1999 in the same royal silver 792. I’ve just recently had a cam belt kit and new radiator put in it and an extra fan put in and wired up (non air con model) next year it’s going in for it’s rear arches to be sorted, repainted where needed and under sealed. That’s only because now I can afford to do it. Till now I’ve just worked on it when I can with what I could afford at the time. It’s had a new rear seal, new oil separator plate, new clutch, radiator hoses, I’ve sorted the rust underneath, new wheel bearings and carriers, track rod ends, ball joints, abs exciter rings (very expensive) and brakes. Both front and back bumpers off and new bumper mounts put on, new number plate lights and brackets at the back, new fog light brackets at the front with all new clips where necessary. Genuine stuff isn’t cheap but it’s how I wanted to do it. Some of the part numbers were really hard to find but they still stock them. This Wednesday it’s new alarm and immobiliser day. It’s a labour of love.
    2 points
  6. Hi all new to the forum thought I'd share my first impreza. Pretty standard example I think just an aftermarket backbox and the speedline wheels and the wing Before and after a good clean. Looking at changing to crystal headlights if I can source some
    1 point
  7. Thank you ernieb. Just as I had feared. I was interested to find that there has been a lawsuit against Subaru in the US for faulty Starlink systems. I have dropped a line to Subaru, as 4 years for a system to work and then fail, isnt satisfactory at all.
    1 point
  8. Unless the unit is defective the most likely problem is that the internal firmware/software is corrupted so that the boot up process is being stalled. The XV I owned was a later model but if it were mine I’d locate the radio fuse and take it out for a while and hope this might clear any internal data. Try a reboot. If that did not clear the issue then download the latest firmware/software onto a USB and see if I could get the unit to reinstall the operating system. (Or SD card not sure how your unit works but the Subaru support page should help you with that) Not much help I’m afraid but it does look essentially like a boot up problem. Sadly most garages in my experience have no knowledge or interest in sorting Head Unit problems. There are specialist companies who sell units and a call to them or a visit might be beneficial. Hope you get it sorted.
    1 point
  9. Thanks for the replies. I had to phone the dealers direct, still never had a reply to my website enquiries. I have decided to go with Richtoy near the Humber bridge in October and give them a try. They were about £60 cheaper than Sheffield.
    1 point
  10. Sun load sensor for the temp/aircon.
    1 point
  11. OK, in that case I'll be ordering a new boot rather than a whole new driveshaft. Thanks so much!
    1 point
  12. As Jay describes, its a doddle once the shaft is off, release the split pin holding the CV joint on and everything can come out be cleaned repacked rebooted refitted, easier and cleaner than most designs because (assuming its the roll pin design on the 2.5) you don't have the struggle of forcing the drive shaft out of the gearbox past it's spring circlip resistance. Quite honestly once you have the shaft off it would only be half an hour longer to sort the present problem, and you've saved the cost of a rebuilt shaft.
    1 point
  13. Our 2003 Outback was the 3.0 litre, and assuming the shafts are the same as the 2.5 they are a doddle to remove and dismantle to reboot and repack with grease. The usual problem is the inner boots sit right over the cats so due to heat perish and split, but unless they've been left for months and dried fully out allowing wear it should be possible to simply repack and reboot them good as new again, they are very well engineered parts. If they are showing wear by rattling on tight lock then simply unclipping boots and repacking with grease may well see them last the car out, i've done this many times and now do this as a matter of course during an intensive service...note the original clips on Subarus take some removing, they are tight and surprisingly strong. Shafts don't need to come out of the final drive, the inner joint is simply push fit onto the output shaft spline and held in place with a roll pin, drive that out with a drift undo the hub nut, drop the bottom ball joint and if i recall the track rod end and the shaft will come straight out, CV joints circlipped to the shaft itself, couple of hours will see them both off and rebuilt. assuming the hub isn't too tight with muck/corrosion to the shaft, but even if this were the case you could in theory remove the hub carrier with shaft in place, awkward but better than destroying the wheel bearings at the same time. Don't know if this helps but it might save you ditching perfectly serviceable shafts for the sake of an extra hlaf hour stripping cleaning and repacking your own OE set.
    1 point
  14. As a rule of thumb ECU's (at a worst case scenario) will only loose what they've "learned" from the grade fuel you use , any mods and driving style , when left without power . Stock and aftermarket ECU base maps are stored as a "hard copy" and will stay on the ECU indefinitely (even without a power source), unless the ecu memory is damaged I imagine that esl would preload a base map to the chip to suit your version (cams, injector and turbo size) but that's only a guess. So contacting andy Stevens or esl to check would probably be a better option, just to be sure .
    1 point
  15. Yeah this is what I've seen everywhere 50% of people recommend someone then the other 50% say they are terrible. I've only ever used Northampton motorsport to map my Beetle and they were really good. Do you know if the car/ecu loses memory if I was to send the ecu to esl to fit?
    1 point
  16. I must admit my local main stealer is a bit of a nightmare - A phone call to order parts with a message left and call back commitment just never happens I have to go there in person to get some attention. Unfortunately the aftermarket alternatives seem to be more customer focused
    1 point
  17. Contact ESL directly for the board, either get them to fit it or do it yourself https://www.enduringsolutions.com/shop/#!/Board-97-8-Optional-discounted-cable-and-software-available/p/33042556/category=0 Try TDR @Warwick for the map
    1 point
  18. Haha I thought that might be the case that's why I'm trying to pace myself and start slow. I'll check out your build now thanks
    1 point
  19. Plus one for ICP - they do a rear chassis bolt kit with all the bolts you need. If you are looking at removing the large bushes be aware Subaru do not list a replacement so yo will need to look at an alternative - I used the Whiteline kit. When you come to remove the bushes do this outside as they make a bit of a smell 😁
    1 point
  20. @kash0613, It's such a pain buying a car right now. The joy is sucked out of the experience almost from day 1 of placing the order. It appears that some manufactures are better than others and on the Toyota Owners Forum (RAV4) they are reporting an upgraded HEV version, better equipped and a lower price and some are getting very quick build slots. They have mitigated the chip issue better than others due to policy of forward buying. I can appreciate how you feel, it's difficult but you might well be in a similar position in 12 months time who knows what's ahead of use? But as you've said you have a car that works and are happy with so maybe sitting tight is the best option. Let us know what you decide I'd be really interested to know.
    1 point
  21. Hi n welcome, looks like its had a fair bit done 😎 The mapper has probably held it back a bit to save the 5 speed , as those mods are capable of around 340hp (pending on the spec of the hybrid tdo5) . Only thing I'd say was unnecessary would be the oil cooler at that level of tune , there really only needed for high hp track cars tbh . Pending on model /year (cars original equipment) I'd probably look into upgrading the brakes , to reign in the extra ponies . Tbh 320 to 330 hp is the ideal sweet spot for classic imprezas, makes for a fast road car but retains a certain amount of reliability regarding engine and box limits . Enjoy and get some pics up 😊
    1 point
  22. @kash0613, as has been said before the low sales volume of all the Subaru cars put together in the UK just does not justify more variations. I did recently get a letter telling me they had appointed another dealer near me, that would help if I every go back to a Subaru car, currently very happy with the RAV4 PHEV. Enjoy your new motor.
    1 point
  23. Thanks for all your replies. I checked out the issue on subaruoutback.org and it seems it's not an uncommon issue. There's a Subaru Of America note to dealers over there to explain how to sort it out. Basically, the issue can happen with new Subies, with auto-levelling LEDs if they've been recently transported on a truck and haven't been on the level, as often happens. Long-term parkign on a hill/slope can also cause an issue it seems. The SOA advice was that the system usually sorts itself out after a period (although the time period wasn't specified). If that doesn't work there's a trick dealers can do with the fusebox in the engine bay to 'nudge' the correction. I'm pleased to say that the first option (just wait a bit) sorted it out for me. A couple of nights ago I was late home and was dreading driving back along the busy A66. As it happened, no one flashed me, not even the truck drivers who are usually quick to signal if youve forgotten to dip you headlights! So, result! I'll add that in the intervening days and the correction I hadn't done any night driving so it must have been the 45 min drive home on the problem night that sorted it. Still don't like the High Beam Assist though 🙂
    1 point
  24. New Levorg with self levelling LED headlights. Not had an issue with mine so far. Sometimes coming over a brow or going over bumps they seem a bit slow to adjust, but not had anyone flashing me.
    1 point
  25. Hi everyone! I'm new here, picked up my Scooby on Monday🥰 Looking forward to getting to know you all, are there any meets going on soon? I'm in Surrey😊 Thank you!!
    1 point
  26. 2008 Subaru Exiga GT 5 door Estate/people carrier This has the 2 litre 225PS flat four EJ20 turbo charged petrol engine, 5 speed Automatic with Subaru Intelligent Drive (SI-DRIVE), Symmetrical 4WD. High specification includes panoramic glass roof with electric blind, privacy glass, remote central locking, push-button start/stop and push button opening on driver, passenger doors and tailgate. 7-seater with Theatre style seating (rear seats set higher than second row). All seats recline. 2nd and 3rd row seats fold flat to give massive load space. Isofix and child locks. Radio/cd player with Sat Nav, Bluetooth etc. An opportunity to own a rare Subaru. Only 7 GTs registered in the UK. More details available for those with genuine interest.
    1 point
  27. Not as new as yours but I did refurb my impreza headlights and once refitted they were very low, a quick visit to a buddy who does MOT's and he pointed out that even though they are self levelling they do need to be set up initially - he then turned to with a spanner and within a few turns he had them set properly. Why not drop into an MOT place and get them checked as they may not have been set correctly from the factory - this would not be picked up for x3 years until first MOT is due
    1 point
  28. Hey guys & gals, You have all probably heard this 1000 times so I apologies now. I have finally got myself a subaru impreza wrx sti 16 reg. I have wanted one since I was 12 years old (now being 31). Any advice on what to look or listen out for would be greatly appreciated and if anyone can explain the best set up I.E. Sport/s line/??? And how to set up the subaru starlink or aha so I can get the best experience out of my car. Again I apologise in advance
    1 point
  29. Guess dreams. Do come true haha 😁
    1 point
  30. Are you getting them done for free, since they are not the correct ones?
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. Hi Tidgy and thankyou poppy wanted one since I was a kid 😁
    1 point
  33. Hi! Bought this back in January, first scooby and I now understand why they're so loved! If anyone recognises it let me know, would be nice to know where it's come from 🙂 If you see me around Suffolk be sure to say hi!
    1 point
  34. My experience of owning many diesels is that they need to be driven a lot to avoid issues with DPF and EGR. I never had issues with the 10 diesel cars I owned between 2007 and 2016, but my cars were doing between 50 and 200 miles a day so I can't ever recollect seeing a DPF light on. If the car appears to be running ok I would suggest a nice long motorway drive which may do the trick, perhaps a dose of Redex in the tank before you do it might help. If not it will be a case of getting the DPF and eGR valves checked for issues.
    1 point
  35. Hello again fellow enthusiasts. I have just listed all these gaskets on a well known auction site. Auction number- 203597624990 The starting price is £0.99p for the whole lot. I hope that this forum will take advantage of this opportunity, to keep these special cars on the road. It would be a good investment for the members of this club. For very little money and much, much less than they cost to even produce. I have been selling them for 10 years on that site. They were custom made and are of very good quality. See my sellers feedback. 100% Thanks to your forum and to your members for letting me show them here first. Good luck to all that maybe interested. Regards OGRI.
    1 point
  36. Cheers Jay. I haven't checked the codes tbh, I will though. I changed the plugs and leads as a 1st stop, maybe the coil pack could do with changing too. It is barely noticeable, but it is there, almost like a bit of fuel starvation, I'll order a fuel filter 1st off, then get a pump. I'll also check for any leaks, though there is no fuel smell, which is good.
    1 point
  37. Gotta say the organisers have been great, I showed proof that I had tonisolate, and they have agreed to move my tickets to next year, top customer service!
    1 point
  38. A 2010 2011 2012 1013 subaru diesel still got a lot of problems, DPF injector learning and crank failure still present. DPF is a complete engineering and environment farce you best avoiding (only buy diesels pre euro5 emissions) Crank failure pretty much gives you scrap on wheels and they all will do it given enough time . Modern diesels are pretty much useless and end up costly ballache and only worth owning if doing incredibly high annual mileage . If you want a Forester then petrol is far better and saves money from reliability and simpler servicing requirements, also don't assume newer better, old ones far better built for dailly rough country commute chores. After 2008 they went down hill rapidly (this same for pretty much all car brands). The SF foresters still going while most the diesel ones scrapped or on eBay and autotrader for 500 quid spare or repair as crank snapped ... I had a few customers who had crank failure and it a sad situation when got tell them bad news of repair cost and current scrap value of 200 quid on a good day .
    1 point
  39. Looking forward to this! Been a long time since I have been to a car show. Hope my car doesn't show up the club display to much. Work in progress😁 looking forward to meeting you all!
    1 point
  40. Hi all, I'm new to SOC but have had my classic now for 7 years or so & love her to bits! Over that time I've changed jobs a lot, so she’s been used for local commuting, long distance commuting and just weekend driving when I've worked from home. She had the PPP (Prodrive Performance Pack) fitted from new but has been otherwise left completely standard since she left the factory (outputting a modest but fun 240 BHP). She has the obvious rust in the wheel arches, but for a 22-year-old car on around 130k miles she’s in pretty good condition. I'm now at a point where I don't know what to do with her and am looking for some guidance. What I'd really like to do is fully restore her to show room condition and then keep in a garage, using her occasionally through the summer months etc., but my finances don't really cater for that just yet, plus I don't have a garage at home. I presently work from home, so she's hardly used and just sat on the drive, to the point where taxing and insuring even seems like a waste of money. I could sell, but don't think I could bear to see her leave. I have an offer of an empty garage 20 miles from where I live, but I’m worried she’ll just slowly rust away and get forgotten. She’s not a P1 or RB5, so I know her value now or in the future, won’t be in those kind of lofty regions, but does this shape, the standard aspaect or even the PPP make her a collectable for the future? If so, then maybe I try to preserve as best as possible, and keep standard to maybe fully restore. If not, then maybe I start tuning her up and get closer to the STI power output and just continue to have fun with her for as long as possible? Thanks for reading!
    1 point
  41. Wow !! One of my favorite cars. I had such a 2000 year turbocharged manual engine I invested over 150,000 NIS in additions of a turbocharger, a special braking system and in addition a start-up from the cell phone, for those who have had it, they know which special vehicle it is. I wish I had an option to help you with your issue.
    1 point
  42. Hi folks, Long time Subaru fan boy...well fan old git now 😆 My interest started from watching Colin, being a Scotsman and all it was my duty to cheer him on 👍 My interest really grew when my best pal bought a 92 Classic JDM WRX in flame red. This was back early 2000, totally fell in love with that car and was fortunate enough to own it for 4 fantastic year's. Scroll on to 2019. I was lucky enough to scratch an itch and purchase a 2010 WRX STI Type UK in Plasma blue pearl with the 320R upgrade. Bought from Subaru Fife with only 37000 miles. Full history with the dealer knowing the previous owners. Fantastic machine, and utterly faultless during ownership. Sadly I was made an offer that I just couldn't refuse. A decision I still regret. Since parting with it I've had 4 cars in a year. None of which have really put a smile on my face. Nor had any character. Just browsing the classifieds I come across another WRX STI Type UK. Only 30000 miles in Pearl White. Dealer registered and then one owner. It also came with the 340R upgrade and full history. To top it off it was a mature owner and a Professor to boot. Only had just over a week. So back in the fold and totally loving it. I've nicknamed it "The Jackhammer" In getting the wheels refurbished, front bumper painted and a HT Autos front lip spoiler fitted. STI rallyflapz ordered and awaiting delivery. Other than the above, I'll be looking to upgrade the head unit and speakers. Looking forward to chatting with you folks. More pics to follow.
    1 point
  43. Thanks for the welcome Jay 👍
    1 point
  44. When press auto down or up can you here any momentary activity at motor ? What I would be doing is putting scope on motor to see current drawer and what voltage getting in general and on auto button cycle . How free is glass/regulator movement ? Has window worked properly in your ownership or it faulty from when purchased and did you see refurbed motor work multiple cycles perfectly in another foz ? You got be careful with those switches as subaru has nasty habit of using same connectors but revised component and wiring at different build dates, can end up doing lot of expensive damage on newer version subarus with 5v monitoring circuits on window motors . Without looking at it I still be suspicious of motor current tripping thermally . If you can't test it well your best way forward would be pull passenger rear motor and first try refurbed front in rear door and rear door in the front as will conclude motor status from the puzzle . If don't want pull rear you can buy a nice used rear passenger motor for less than £30 .
    1 point
  45. Just finished rebuilding my td05h all nice and clean ☺️ lucky as my cheap fleabay that will do for now turbo oil seals starting to fail good old flea bay sh1te lasted me a flew month whilst waiting for the rebuild kit 👍
    1 point
  46. Hi. I'm Frank, live in Glossop. Retired GP, worked in Irvine, Scotland for 33 yrs. I have a 1.6 Premium XV, my 12th subaru...it's going next week in favour of a 2litre eboxer XV. Over the years I have had: 2.2l Legacy saloon, 2l turbo Legacy estate, Impreza Sportwagon turbo, WRX, 3l Outback, 3l series2 Outback (best car ever but drank petrol), 2(or was it 3) diesel Outbacks, 2 Levorg GT's, and my present XV. All bought and servised by S&S Services of Ayr. Even though I have lived in Derbyshire for 6 yrs now I still return to S&S because of the great deals and personal service from John and Brian. In the winter in Glossop, the ability of the XV keeps me mobile.
    1 point
  47. hello unfortunately im not able to give any advice but i do have the same car as u so i thought we can help eachother out and nimpy.
    1 point
  48. Hi, new to the forum.and Subarus, used tonlbe the VW shows though, sp got a ticket, be there with my daughter, be good to meet you all 😀
    1 point



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