The_Bronze

Hi all, So I've now turned my attention to the chassis on the Impreza. I want to effect a few mods to the power and handling side of the car but externally I want it to remain looking like a stock 2000 Turbo. I've just fitted a Whiteline 22mm adjustable rear ARB and the difference is crazy! gone is the mild, floaty understeer, car feels to have a lot more grip and is now more predictable, happy! definitely for £139 all in! Also incredibly easy, I did it in the rain last night under feeble torch light in 25 minutes, and I'm not the fastest worker. I'm going for a full bushing refresh with all the main suspension bushes being done first, I'm going to do it gradually over time. I'm not a fan of polyurethane bushes so I'm going to be going with Group N stuff where possible. I'd also like some uprated springs but again, to maintain the stealth look and to retain full driveability I'd prefer uprated springs which either don't drop the car at all or only very, very slightly ( one inch or less, ideally.) I'll also be fitting new dampers, probably KYBs. I don't want coilovers as good sets are costly and also seem to ride way to firmly, so does anyone know of a set of springs which are uprated but don't appreciably lower the car?

Haha! I've not played any racing games for a while now, I know I'd be terrible so I don't want to depress myself!

Lol, me too Gambit! in fact that's what I'm doing right now! lots of tea consumed too!

Hey all, Soooo, what do you do when you can't get out on your car because the weather is super naff? you get a cup of tea on the go, a pile of biscuits and sit on youtube all day! If you've not watched any of these get on them today (though seeing as I think we're pretty much all petrol heads on here I doubt that!). The MotorTrend channel has quite a few good bits and bobs, I particularly like 'Roadkill', those guys are funny. 'Chris Harris on cars' is also good. Fast and Loud is worth a watch (Gas Monkey Garage), they've done some pretty cool cars. My favourite probably being the AMC Rambler surf wagon they did. 'Mighty Car Mods' is also pretty decent with lots of little how to type guides for various things, and one of the presenters owns a Subaru Liberty wagon with full STi running gear. The two feature films they made are also more than worth a watch, 'Turbos and Temples' and 'Kei to the City'. The soundtracks are also superb! Finally, I've not watched it yet but a mate has been telling me I need to watch 'Street Outlaws', they own 'The Farmtruck', looks like what it says it is, but can do some crazy times down the quarter mile. https://www.youtube.com/user/mightycarmods Click and enjoy while it pizzles down outside! <_<

&#33;Removed&#33; hell, that's a pretty decent saving! cheers for letting me know about it! :)

Savage, Gambit, You know, I never actually thought about contacting OPIE over this, I think OPIE and I just think oil really, doh! haha! Cheers chaps, I'll ask the man and see what he recommends, club discount is never a bad thing ;)

Hi all, It's a topic which is done to death everywhere and with conflicting advice, but being honest I trust people on this board the most so your thoughts would be greatly received! So in anticipation of a boiling hot Summer (ha) I was going to do a coolant change on my MY00 Impreza UK Turbo. The coolant doesn't look bad in all honesty but I don't trust the previous keeper and coolant is relatively inexpensive to buy. I've seen people suggest using IAT types (the typically blue/green/yellow bog stock stuff you change every two to three years) and OAT (the typically orange/pink extended life stuff, don't worry I know they're just dyes). I assumed there's no issue using IAT but for the laziness factor and in anticipation of keeping the car a lot longer I thought I'd go for maybe OAT but I've heard OAT can cause issues with certain engines, knackering soldered joints, prematurely aging some types of rubber seals etc. Any thoughts on that? I was going to use Comma XStream as it's purportedly good quality stuff and comes ready mixed 50:50. Or would you all stick with the IAT stuff? obviously a good flush is needed as mixing the two isn't recommended. So far as I know there's no performance advantage with long life coolant, it's just the extended service period which is a bonus. Seeing as I intended on using the car for the odd track day this year I also wondered about the use of something like 'Water Wetter', is this something people would steer clear of? Cheers all!

Hi fella, thanks for the reply and apologies for taking my sweet time getting back to you! Actually I'll have a poke around and see if the switch just needs adjusting or if a wire's damaged, after the previous owner's 'attempts' at doing things to it I want to make sure! Thanks for the offer of the reverse light, if it does indeed turn out mine has karked it (likely) then I'll happily take it off you if you name your price! :) Thanks again!

I'm not even sure if this is really the place for this topic, apologies if it's not the right area to post this in! Hi all, after working intermittently for some time the reverse light switch in the gearbox has finally died, not good. I've been trying to track one down from local factors to no avail. Looking on ebay, there's loads to fit the 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 non turbo models but when I do a parts compatibility check the switches for these cars are listed as unsuitable for my car :( (my car being a year 2000 UK Turbo model.) Does anyone know if the switches from the lesser models do indeed fit and work or are they different? Finally, if anyone's got one that they don't need please let me know and I'll happily buy it from you! Cheers all!

Possibly had a new set of replacement shocks at some point? I do recall most OE spec Monroe shocks were mid blue!

Whats this pill you refer to never checked the boost on mine but would be awesome if a few standard psi were to be had from her I only stumbled on it by chance myself to be honest! From what I understand, the earlier 3 port solenoid cars (pre '97 I think?) had a boost restrictor, but the less restriction on a 3 port car means more boost, so either larger 'pills' were fitted (a little piece of brass rod with a prescribed size of hole drilled through it) or the 'pill' was completely removed. For the later cars fitted with the 2 port solenoid system ('97 onwards, though from what I've read the odd exception does exist) the reverse is true, the smaller the hole and therefore greater restriction in the 'pill' the more boost will be achieved, though this does need to be monitored on an accurate boost gauge. The 'pill' is located inside the pipe marked as '2' in red: For clarity's sake I've also included another view of the turbo and vacuum pipes I can't take credit for the photos, I just ripped them from a google search! This is all assuming the car is standard and not fitted with aftermarket bits and bobs! If your car doesn't have the right size or a pill at all I've got a fair few left over welding tips I bought so let me know!

I've seen new sensors on ebay for £50 so not quite so bad! That said, try a full system ECU reset, I'm not sure if this will also clear ABS fault lights but I think from memory it resets everything. That said, if there's a genuine fault the light will just come back on. Check the wiring to the wheel sensors and fuses for the ABS system. Also check the wiring plugs at the sensors to make sure they're making good contact and that there's no water or corrosion present, I find cans of cheap brake/carb cleaner are excellent for cleaning contacts! Also check the sensors themselves, if there's any muck, dirt, grease or metal shavings on them it can affect the way they work. They're held in by one bolt I think so just whip them out and clean them if necessary. If that doesn't help also check the condition of the toothed reluctor rings to make sure they're not cracked or damaged or dirty (though they're pretty well protected from the elements in these cars unlike some others). Again, a solvent type brake/carb cleaner is excellent and ideal! Has the car been through any deep water or in really muddy conditions before the ABS light came on? Is the ABS system definitely disabled? you can check by finding some gravel somewhere and just diving on the brakes at a low speed, if you lock up then it's definitely down! The ECU reset procedure is here : http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ECUReset I'm not at all sure if this will reset the ABS light though. Don't be alarmed when you do this, the car will start clicking its relays, priming the fuel pump off and on continually and running the radiator fans at different speeds, it's all part of the procedure so don't worry! There's a good source of info and reset procedures here aswell: http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co.uk/Scooby%20Page/ECU%20Diag%20Page.htm#_Reading_ECU_Codes

Hey bud, Not sure on those to be honest, I did find this though: http://www.type-ra.com/subaru-forum/threads/subaru-fault-codes.4535/ and http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ Not sure if that's any help though! They're a knowledgeable lot on here though and hopefully someone can go into it a little more detailed than I can :) What's actually wrong with the car?

Very cool tech indeed! Thanks by the way man, really happy it's all sorted now, along with the power folding mirrors now fitted along with the found lost boost I'm really happy with it! :)