MikeDB

I've always used Michelins on my non turbo Subaru Imprezas, changing to Vredestein Quatrac in winter, but my latest came with Yokohamas (C.drive 2 on front, Advan A10 on rear) which are in need of replacement. How do people rate the Michelin Pilot 4 against the seemingly numerous Yokohamas available - Advan A10E, C-drive 2, Advan Fleva, BluEarth (AE-50, AE-01 or ES-32). Looking for decent wet performance on back roads as never use it for long distance.

I bought a 2010 2 litre non-turbo Impreza as my old GX 2 litre was getting long in the tooth and this seemed to be the latest year one could buy something between the gutless 1.6 litre and the 'hear it in the next county' turbo models. However since I bought it, the engine cooling fan seems to come on far more often then the older model. Pull up at a junction and it comes on within 5 seconds. Both K T Green in Yorkshire and Colin Appleyards in Ashton have looked at it and claim it is fine but to my mind there is obviously something amiss. Unfortunately for some insane reason this model doesn't have an actual temperature gauge so I've no idea if the car is actually running hot or the fan is coming on too early. Anybody else seen this, or have suggestions on what could be wrong ?

I found the correct tool on eBay and it's just arrived but the diff plug doesn't seem to want to move. Can somebody confirm it is normally threaded please, i.e. anti-clockwise to undo.

Does anybody know the correct size for the square tool to undo the rear diff fill plug. I had a universal tool which seemed to be 12mm but it broke under loading so need to buy the correct tool

Rest of the car is good. New clutch and suspension with no rush on the other three corners. If it had been the left hand side it would have been an easier fix but the right hand side involves removing the fuel tanks which involves dropping other bits so adds considerably to the cost

I've got a 2002 Impreza 2.0 GX which has been a good runner with 78000 miles and is generally in very good shape. But it's just failed the MOT for severe rust on the offside rear inner wheel arch. Apparently water has been working its way down from the filler cap and rusting away from the inside so it really needs a complete new inner wheel arch which I can't seem to identify a source of even. Repair thus involves removing exhaust so that the fuel tank can be dropped, the cutting out the inner wheel arch back to good metal (i.e. remove most of it) and fabricate a new arch almost from scratch. Has anybody had similar work performed and what was the cost ? I need to decide whether to repair it or scrap it for parts. I assume the main value as parts is the engine and transmission. Any idea what value those have nowadays ?

In 2012 there was a recall R/2011/146 on Imprezas and Forester where the front lower control arms were failing due to salt ingress. http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/apps/recalls/searches/expand.asp?uniqueID=21E0E33445CEFB948025793B002DBAEC&freeText=Blank&tx=0.3057672 However it appears that many cars checked then to be ok are now failing, often during use which is obviously dangerous. I have been talking to VOSA about this and they are aware of the problem but really need more cases reported before they can take action. So if you have had this happen, or even if it was caught during an MOT, could you please fill out this form https://forms.vosa.gov.uk/Vsdr/create

I've just had almost exactly the same thing, only fortunately an MOT inspection caught it just before it was about the break. They declared the car unsafe to drive away though. Had it fixed there and paid as I was unaware there was a recall. Then when looking into the airbag recall (didn't apply to me) I found out about the recall on the government website. So I contacted Subaru UK and they told me it was inspected in 2012 without me knowing about it and deemed ok so they are refusing to pay anything towards the repair and looks like I might have to take legal action. Has anybody else experienced this as I could do with proof mine wasn't just an isolated case.

I think it was either damaged by the actual strut collapse or at some earlier time. It's more a rip than just a standard rust hole. I was thinking of welding a small plate over it then pushing some filler behind it if I can get in there. And then some underseal to hide the whole lot from the MOT guy :-) I've also just noticed someone sells fibreglass inner wings - are these in any way recommended ? It would seem to imply the inner wing has no structural value which I find unlikely on a modern car.

Changed my profile pic to it for speed. This is upside down and taken looking backwards. The spring is on the left and on the right you can see the hole in the inner wing and the fortunately undamaged outer wing panel right behind it.

Eventually traced the problem to a hole in the inner wing opposite the strut which must have been damaged when the strut broke. Does anyone know how structural the inner wing underneath the outer wing is ? i.e. do I need to replace it with a complete new inner wing or can I patch it with some weld. This is not the main part around the strut with the strengthening joints what take most of the shock absorber load - obviously if damaged they would need exact replacement. As far as I can see the inner wing under the outer wing is not a key load bearing part but I may be wrong. Thanks

After talking to their UK office I went with the Vredestein Quadrac Lite since I don't do much motorway driving and the lower rolling resistance of the Sportrac isn't so much of an issue. That said I had to go on a length of fast dual carriageway to get them and I will say they are a little 'vague-er' than the standard Michelins when cruising at high speed, though I think a tweak to the tracking would fix that. However on corners there is a definite 'bite hard' on turning sharply in the dry and I'm having to not turn the wheel quite so much. I'll let you know wet performance once it rains will should be soon.

My Impreza rear nearside fell down a council pothole and ever since replacing the shock absorber with a new one, and rebuilding it twice to make sure I haven't done something wrong, there.has been a not loud but annoying rumble from the rear nearside. It's at the wheel revolution speed and using brakes, going into neutral and so on do not affect it at all. It sometimes seems louder over bad road surfaces though that may be my imagination. I put the car up on four stands today and checked the wheel bearings which all seem ok with no 'grit' points or anything. Diff play is about 1/8 of a turn on both rear wheels - no idea if that's the norm or not. Then ran the engine up with all wheels in the air and the noise I am after does not occur. Thus it seems it may be actual noise from the road coming through the suspension somehow. Any suggestions as to where to look for the fault ?

Hang on then if you're able and I'll let you know :-)

Has anyone tried the Vredestein Sportrac 5 or Quadrac (3 or Lite) on a Scooby ?