Jump to content

Dan skid

Members
  • Posts

    3
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location:
    hartlepool
  • Subaru Model
    v3 wrx sti

Dan skid's Achievements

Member

Member (1/14)

  • First Post
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Mine doesn't throw the cel light for the code, I only know about the code when I connect the plugs under the dash. I clear the code then it's fine for a while. Check it a day later and it's still not back, check it a week or 2 later and it's back! Pain!
  2. That's even better if you have a spare kicking about! I still get code 24 on my v3 wrx sti but I have no real problems anymore. Occasionally I get a low idle if when I've been driving for a while and come to a stop. Only happens now and again. The problem I have is that when I bought the car it also had a boost leak which took me a while to find, turned out to be a hole in a hard fmic pipe! It then ran great and gave me 1.3 bar quite quickly! I've since had a load of parts out to clean them, paint bits, tidy the engine bay up a little. Now I only get just over 0.9 at best and the car feels slow compared to what it was. I can only just keep with a standard astra vxr from a rolling start!! Embarrassing as he'll! Considering when it was at 1.3 bar I was abusing my mate in his 300+ vxr! Got sick of looking for the problem so just thought balls to it.
  3. Hi mate, do u have access to a soldering iron and about 18 inches of thin gauged wire? Speaker wire would probably suffice. (Granted this may sound like a bit of a neanderthal method of fixing it but trust me, it works.) Remove your clocks, find the printed circuit that you said has blown, strip a small amount of insulation from the fine/speaker wire, solder it to the damaged printed circuit WITHOUT damaging the plastic it's stuck to, then crimp a small electrical ring to the other end of your new earth wire (or wrap some of its bared wire around a bolt/screw) and bolt the ring to an existing part of the cars metal structure. I ran it to a bolt that holds part of the dash, next to the bonnet release catch. This was a fix I did when I got my car, it was apparant that it had an earth problem. It would idle really low on the verge of stall every time I stopped at light or a roundabout, when I indicated either way it would flash both green arrows on the dash as if I had the hazards on, if I pressed the brakes whilst indicating then the indicators would flash fat as if there was a bulb out. It would also stutter/miss slightly every time I revved the engine in neutral or with the clutch dipped. Anyway, this fixed my problem. I can't guarantee that It's going to fix your problem but I'd definately try it. If you get stuck then message me (I'm new to forums so not down with how to contact you privately lol) and Il give you my mobile number and walk you through it. I hope this helps you! Let me know either way. Dan. It's been a while but I thought I would update the little info I have. I took the wrx to be looked at by the kind gents at autotecnica down my way who kindly pointed out numerous oil and water leaks(all bearing no relevance to the actual running of the car though). Since then I've changed the engine for a good running engine which went like a train. Slapped it in mine and hey presto........still runs like cr@p! I can only presume that the wiring to ecu etc is damaged or something. The issues I'm having is still the icv but also when the idle drops I hear a click inside the car which then makes the boost solenoid click which raises revs?? I'm sure I have a devil car it's driving me mad! I tried different ecu, maf, icv, all new coils and plugs, air filter is brand new. Any suggestions before I drive it off a cliff. I also get get code 45 now too which I cleared but still crops back up when idling or driving below 2k revs.
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership


  • Insurance
  • Unread Content
  • Support