Mdon

Hi MrB as you can probably tell my free rest days are few and far between. My engine number is 124918. cheers mike.

Hi, thanks for all your help. I'm slowly progressing with this. I've decided to bite the bullet and stick with the car so I'm getting the powerflow exhaust replaced tomorrow for something more quiet and I'm going to try and fix this issue. Don't suppose you have a photo showing the location of both the MAF and the neutral switch? Normally the MAF is on the air hose coming out of the filter box however with the filter being basically on the engine, I can't find the damn thing. I've tried googling it and still can't seem to find it as the only image that is the same as my motor points to the IAC Valve. I feel like a right idiot not being able to find it. secondly, I think I've found what could be the neutral switch on the passenger side of the gear box there's two switches identical, which I assume one is neutral and the other is the reverse light switch. Don't suppose you could tell me which one is which? I also tried the bump strip around the wheel arch and it's too cold to apply it, it needs to be warm to shape it and I can't seem to get it right so I've again bitten the bullet and have booked it in after Christmas to have both rear arches rubbed down, painted in a plastic primer (I'm assuming it's like a plasti-dip paint) and then resprayed. £280 for both. Cheers mike.

Yeah idle is fine and the fault is coming up when ther car is driving along at 30mph or so, I can't see how it can have anything to do with the idle. The neutral switch sounds like a good bet though, do you have a part number for it as the dealer isn't looking at that as a possibility.

I already have a code reader and it is constantly the 519 code that comes up. It is doing my head it and I don't think this car will last past January in my ownership. Warranty was only a month long so is now expired. I'm going to try and remove the dash clocks on my next set of rest days and remove the EML bulb.

Sorry for taking so long to get back to this. I've looked at the heated seats and there's power as the switch lights up in both low and high but only gets warm in low. However, I've had another set back with the car. After the dealer replacing the Iac valve I've had the engine management light on a total of 4 more times. After resetting it twice I took it in to the main dealer yesterday after the third activation to which they interrogated the ecu and found the last time it was on it was running at 80c and doing a little over 1800rpm. They can't find a fault but suggested it might need a cat. They said run in a see how it goes. And no surprise it's came on again this morning, again after driving a couple of miles and when driving along at about 30mph, it never seems to come on when idling. There are jobs id like to sort on this car and improve it but I'm currently loosing the will with it, have you any suggestions please or is the EML bulb easily removed from the dash binnacle? Many thanks and sorry for being a nuisance. mike.

I'm confused, I think you've tagged the wrong video, this just shows you putting it on ramps. Looks tidy though.

Yeah, switch still lights up when on high setting. I'll try contact cleaner on the connectors. Where's the thermostat for the seats located? Is it a easy fix?

Still waiting for a dry day when I'm off to attack the rust, I've touched up everywhere I can in the short term and the strips have arrived and look decent. Every day I've been off so far it has rained. another quick question, my drivers side heated seat only works on the low setting, on high there is no heat whatsoever. Is this a simple fix? I'm not fussed about it enough to spend loads of time or cash on it but I will fix it if it's an easy job. the petrol consumption seems to defy logic, I've used it quite a bit for work recently due to forced overtime so I can't car share at the minute (147.5 hours worked in 14 days, I'm knackered!) and I've been kicking its head in a little i.e. Overtakes etc, the petrol consumption over the last tank has been better?! I averaged just a smidge over 32mpg.

Thanks for getting back to me. I've ordered the 18mm strips already and I've contacted the online breakers I got the fog light switch from. I've also ordered some paint . £580 seems extortionate, even a professional fix would only cost about £200. Hopefully I'll get some from the breakers.

I've already had a look at the boot trim removal, I'm on my days to night swing shift on Thursday so plan to attack it then, with the 5 litres of wax oil I also got a 500ml aresol of wax oil so I think that should do the job perfectly. Ive already got that 5m trim roll on my watch list, great minds think alike! I've seen photos of the original Subaru ones and they look ace, if you can find a part number that'd be great, if not I'll ring the dealer up on Thursday. Cheers Mr B.

I don't suppose you have a part number for the wheel arch protectors? I've tried googling it and can't find a part number. If I can get them then I'll be able to sort the rust myself. It's on the lip of the arch, I've cleaned the inner eagle and gave it a good coat of wax oil on the inner side of it and I'll scrape the rust out of the outside and put some rust kill on it. just filled the car up as I've done 273 miles just pottering around and going to work once, it has averaged 30.6mpg giving a average so far of 31.06 mpg over 541miles. Well chuffed with that.

IACV problem has been sorted, the supplying garage paid for my nearest Subaru dealer (Stan palmer) to replace the valve. Revs have settled at 750 rpm on warm tickover. Managed to replace the heater control bulbs and the rear fog light switch. I also wax oiled the rear arches, rear subframe and inside both cills before I got rained off. I have found a small rust bubble in the paint on the rear passenger wheel arch about the size of half a 5pence coin. I don't know whether to take it to the garage now to but sorted or see when it develops.

Well the EML came back on so I contacted the garage I bought it off who were happy for me to take it to the local Subaru dealership due to there being no specialist indies in the area, I booked the car in for Wednesday morning they seemed on the ball and were happy to deal with the supplying garage on my behalf and even ordered a new IACV in incase my car needs it (turns out they've had my car in for work before in the past). I thought I'll leave the light on until it goes in so they can see the code P0519. But after only 4 hours after booking the !Removed! thing in the light has reset itself! This car is going to make a liar out of me. i also tried replacing some bulbs, one of the three heater control bulbs, the rear fog light switch and the clock. Managed to get the bulbs out fo the heater controls but couldn't find a replacement anywhere so had to order a set of three from the Subaru dealer which I'll pick up on Wednesday. Turned my attention to the fog light switch, took some dismantling and got the light out as it was stuck, same story, specialist bulb so I'll live with that one being out. Only snag was when putting the switch back together I managed to knock a chip off the board so the switch is now completely U/S, managed to source one from a breakers that should be here on Tuesday. However, third time lucky, I managed to replace the clock bulb. the wax/oil finally turned up so if the weather is dry tomorrow I'll tackle that, hopefully I won't make a mess of it.

I took it up into the fells yesterday and had a walk with my little girl, loved it! Ive cleaned the iac again and gave it a good dose of wd40. I've noticed today the revs are still hunting when on warm idle waiting at the lights. I'm waiting for the EML to come back on again and then I'm going to take it to the Subaru dealers to have a look. Hopefully it'll be a simple fix as I'm refraining from buying anything for it (ie mats etc) incase it turns into a massive headache and I end up returning it.

Just filled her up after 268 miles using 3/4 of a tank. Averaged 31mpg calculated brim to brim. I'm very happy with that. No doubt it'll drop a bit over the next few months with the cold weather arriving.

Ha ha, yeah. It'll hopefully come into its own this winter in the Lake District. I like to play in the snow.

Recent purchase, got round to giving it a wash and hand wax with zymol, pretty pleased with the results.

I have her a wash and hand wax with zymol today, looks beautiful.

I've contacted the supplying garage who've told me to take it to a local garage and get it diagnosed. I think I'll clean as you've suggested and dose it with wd40 and then if the light comes back on I'll book it in next week. Do do you believe it'll be the neutral switch rather than the idle air control solenoid? Where exactly is the neutral switch located?

It's back on. Took the car for a run to the next town, about 6 miles away and it came back on when setting off to come home. I sat on idle for a little bit to watch the Rev counter and it does fluctuate between over 750 to below 750rpm.

Yeah the idle seems fine between 500-750 mark on warm idle and holds steady. Unfortunately I've been off sick this set of shifts however I'm back in on Sunday hopefully so it'll get a 50 mile round trip then to see how it fares.

Thanks MrB, Sorry to keep pestering you. I removed it today and it was black. I've cleaned it with carb cleaner and gave it a coat of 3 in 1 oil. I also cleans the plug/socket with electrical contact cleaner. We'll see how it goes for the next few days. Thanks mike.

Feeling slightly annoyed. Had my first issue today. Short run to my mothers house which is about 4 minutes drive (can't walk atm as I've caught hand, foot & mouth disease from my 2 year old and the blisters on my feet are killing me) about half way there the engine management light came on. I've read the code and it was for the 'idle air control valve' P0519. I've reset the code, drove it about 6 miles and it hasn't come back on yet. A bit of googling has revealed you can clean it to sometimes solve the issue? Is it just a matter of removing it, spraying some carb cleaner on it and giving it a wipe? The car came with a 1 month warranty but I'd rather not take it back to the supplying garage if it's a simple fix as they are 2 & 1/2 hours drive away and for the last 175 miles it has driven faultlessly so I'm hoping it is just a very simple thing. thanks.

Managed to get a quick look at this, there's two sets of holes for the bonnet switch one higher than the other. Looks like it's always been on the lowest setting. I've moved it up to the next set of holes and problem fixed. Thanks very much for your help! Chuffed with the car so far.

Cheers mate, I start back on day shifts tomorrow so I'll have a tinker on Monday and let you know how I get on. looking forward to the journey to work tomorrow, although it is a bit louder than the Volvo, she sounds sweet when powering along at 70.