Jammy Johnny

Forget it. I have decided to keep the stainless exhaust, stuff what my wife thinks lol

Im looking for the standard exhaust system for my 1997 Impreza 2000 turbo Wagon. I currently have a full stainless system from the turbo to a stainless backbox but I am taking it off. I want to keep the car as original if possible. Its far to loud for my mrs. So if I want to keep the car then its an exhaust downgrade :( Any help in sourcing out one will be appreciated. I am also willing to part with the stainless system.

I just use the yellow pin to obdII system

regular bug spray might work :P

maybe air in the system or other problems like a head gasket or faulty thermostat. Did the over heating cause pressure that blew the rad ? need to find the cause before the fix.

I Have not checked there Gambit. I did not know it had an in tank pump. Never worked on Subaru's before I bought mine. I will have a look tomorrow. Cheers ;)

When I lined up the double notches on the pulleys at either side the crankshaft sprocket was a full tooth out. Just need to get rid of the petrol smell now. No leaks anywhere Any Ideas ?

Got to the bottom of my rough running. I changed my coil and leads along with plugs and air filter. Car still ran erratic on idle and jerky when driving in low gear. I decided to check the timing belt and It was at least one tooth out. Put a new belt on and she now growls like a Lion. :D The photos show the right and left slightly out when the crankshaft sprocket is aligned.

Hi froddy. Watch out for the rozzers :D . Have a look at the rear inner wheel arches, they can rot at those points and at the rear or the inner sills. Im quite new to subaru so maybe someone else will help with the steering squeak. But I would check the outer balljoints on the suspension arms.

Did you ever get your problem sorted ?I was wondering because you never said you had the engine started after having the car recovered. Maybe the timing belt has jumped a tooth or two .

Cheers Gambit :D

Why does my maf only have 3 pins and its the original loom. All MAFs I have looked at for my model seem to say 4 pins. Now Im confused

Cant check sticker until tomorrow because its at the garage. Another thing, the coil leads were routed wrong for the drivers side (o/s) they seem too short. Im going to replace coil pack and leads. that way I know they are fine. I already have new plugs and filter in but not starting it until i have had the timing cover off and check all timing marks align. I have a friend who had one tooth out on an exhaust cam and its giving the same symptoms as what he had.

Number four looks like its not been firing properly as you say. And it does look a little rich. Im new to subaru and Im also mainly a diesel specialist. My ignition timing is at 12 degrees, is that correct for my car. Also when on the computer the knock sensor was showing no value. it was at 0

Image of the plugs I took out. Notice that the compression washers were not squeezed and the number 4 cylinder plug difference. The other three are sooted up. maybe a choking problem ?

We have two systems. The bigger system is OBDII only but we have a system called launch that has various connectors I will show you the adapter I used. Oh and if it asks for 16 pin or 9 pin, select 9 pin ;)

The wire was for the alarm switch on front panel to stop theft of engine parts I presume . On another note, I have replaced the air filter panel with an original and bought NGK platinum plugs ( not fitted yet). I managed to connect our works OBDII computer to it using an adapter that plugged into the yellow 9 pin plug thats under the steering column. The MAF showed up as a fault in history only and there were no current engine problems with Ignition on. I started the car and went through the computer again and it came up with the fault (Injector number 4 faulty). the Launch diagnostic kit is ace :) . I have put the car back off the road for now until I get a few things sorted. I want to put new injectors in, the new plugs, Clean the throttle body, fit original exhaust because I want it to be a classic original one day. So its back to my tuned bmw 318 tds for now I am also going to check the cam timing marks are all aligned. A new coil pack and leads will be fitted too. The car needs a couple of bits of bodywork done but I am going to keep a running update in a post (where can i post it) including images of all the work done making this a modern classic in original condition. Do you think I am wise doing this

Its a grey wire and its not from the maf loom. Its only held on to it with a tie strap. The wire runs towards the radiator. I never had time to have a look at work because I had a few MOTs to do and fit a power steering pipe to a ford fiesta

It is a three wire maf. I will trace that fourth wire at work later . Thanks all for your help.

There are no other markings on the maf Stanton. But I did find a broken wire which was tie-wrapped to the maf wiring loom. The image shows the break in circles and the arrow is where the wire joins the loom. I do not know what this wire is for but I have cut off the green corroded ends and joined the ends back up properly. Will test the car tomorrow. Thanks for your help

Top of maf is black The side has a holographic label.

Going out to take a few photos just now Stanton. Is there 2 cats on the car? I will post the images in 20 minutes. Engine is a bit grubby looking but I will get it all nice once I get it running proper. I have all the service history and all previous mot's etc. Its done 111,000 miles.

I told her. I was buying a wrx sti now. I said you told me to. You should hear what she called you lol

It does stall when the plug is pulled. could be a bad plug or am I just wishful thinking lol

After reading Gambits post regarding fault codes, I have done the black plug connection and its two long blinks and three quick ones. It keeps repeating the same over and over. I now know (thanks to Gambit again) that its probably the MAF sensor that is faulty, or maybe the wiring harness connected to it. The previous owner has put a k/n panel filter in it and after some reading on here and our magic friend mr google I think maybe the oil that coats the filter has fouled the MAF. The symptoms I have are below: Rough Idling. fuel smell at idle. car runs very rough when cold (feels like misfire and jerking at low revs when driving in low gear). can feel a misfire when sitting at a constant 65 on the motorway. But the car revs well and has plenty power under load. So would a faulty MAF cause all those symptoms ? or should I change the plugs, leads and maybe coil pack. I was told by the previous owner that the only mods done were a stainless decatted exhaust system and a k/n filter. It also has had a new cambelt fitted and its only done 280 miles since.(done by previous owner). I want to get this sorted so that I can enjoy driving the car