Jja081196

Hi Guys, just been poking around in my Impreza trying to solve an abs problem, found that the fuse was missing so hopefully putting a new one in will sort it but in doing so I’ve noticed this grey plug, does anyone what it does? Just a random question really. Cheers

Excellent! Thank you! This is what I have done and hopefully all is well, I believe when I first did the gaskets I used the sohc method and that may be why I had a weep of water from the cylinders. Thanks for the help @savage bulldogs

Hi, firstly forgive me if this is in the wrong place! i am currently replacing head gaskets but cannot seem to find solid information on torque specs for the head, I have a my97 Ej20g and the manuals that I can find are always missing my year out. The 1993-1996 manual I have specifies tightening all bolts to 29Nm then 69Nm, back off 180 x2, 29Nm then 90°, then 45° Then bolts 1 and 2 a further 45°. The sheet supplied with the gasket that is listed as fitting years 94-99 specify tightening 29Nm then 69Nm, back off 180 x2, bolts A & B to 34Nm, C,D,E,F to 15Nm, all bolts 90°, all bolts further 90°. Can anyone advise which spec they have used with success? As I have read on Nasioc that the second set of instructions I have listed are for a sohc engine and that I should be using something closer to the first method - the info there was pulled from an 04 sti manual and one number does conflict with my “93-96” numbers that being 49Nm rather than 29Nm but the tightening off all bolts to a single torque is the same - link for reference just in case I’m confusing you - https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1780049 Pictures of 93-96 manual also attached for reference Any help would be massively appreciated!! Cheers Jake

Hi mate, mine is a v3/v4 EJ20G & thanks for the specs mate!

Hi, I have seen some bits like this but am unsure if it still applies to my engine or not, anyway to tell? Cheers!

Thanks mate, but that is the manual I keep finding, unfortunately it doesn’t include engine tolerances

Hi, I’m currently rebuilding the motor for my gc8 Impreza but have run into problems finding a workshop manual, I need the clearances and tolerance limits for the votes, bearings, rings and pistons but cannot find them anywhere, can anybody help me? I’d appreciate it!! Cheers Jake

Hi Guys Im having an issue with my Impreza, the Antilock Brakes Light has come on and will not go away! It came on one day shortly after rear wheel bearings where replaced, I have reset the battery and it came straight back on without driving anywhere, I have checked both rear sensors by eliminating the sensors with a 1.2k resistor to see if the light would go out but to no avail, I have seen a thread about using the connectors under the dash by plugging the ground prongs into positions 3 & 6 Of the black plug but after looking the plug has only being wired in ports 1 and 2, and plugging the grounds into those ports triggers airbag diagnostics, any other help on the matter would be great! Attached picture of the plug I’m talking about just in case thanks Jake

Hi all, thanks for your input, I have found esl online for 295 plus £30 fitting and I can add the motorsport pack which has 2 step, anti lag, traction control and other bits for an extra £100 which I didn't think was bad, I think this is the route I'm going to take, they are based in middlesex so i would have to take an hour or 2 drive, maybe my best bet is to install all my supporting mods and trailer it to them so I don't do any damage with extra bits on the car, thanks again guys

Hi Guys Im hungry for more power and have read about ecu swaps from other Wrx models as well as daughter boards from esl. what I'd like to know is which Subaru ecu's are compatible with my 97 UK Impreza turbo and how I'd go about fitting a daughter board if other ecus aren't an option. thanks in advance guys Jake

New Set of Platinum Plugs gapped to 0.7mm P1 Splitter Fitted Grill is next!

Any help guys?? It'd be appreciated!!

Hi guys, Ive been working on a bugeye gx Impreza with a mate for a while after his head gasket popped, we've just today got the engine back in after finding some spare time, everything is in and ready apart from a few bits of wiring, but what I can't work out is where a certain black plug goes, where the engine loom joins the loom coming from the car there is the orange and grey plugs that connect the engine loom to the car loom and then a black 6 pin plug in the same bunch that i can't for the life of me work out where it goes, I'm sorry if this is a bit vague but any help would be appreciated! thanks! Jake

Hi Stants, thanks for you reply, my next mission is to check to the actuator arm, there's not any mbc fitted, I will check under the kick plate to see if it's been fiddled with, I found a guide online using a forester stereo harness and a USB lead to attach to the 9 pin diagnostic plug under the steering column so I can diagnose it on a laptop, being that it's a 97 model I don't have obd2, this should help to find the cause of my map sensor code, do you have any experience in wastegate preload and setting up so I definitely don't make more problems for myself cheers Jake

Hi guys, Finally got a boost gauge fitted, im boosting to 1.2 bar (17psi) , I've fitted the gauge off the spare nipple on the manifold, now I know this is to high I'm wondering why this could be happening, has someone used a different sized restrictor pill? Maybe adjusted the wastegate? I'm stuck and can't seem to find anything, as far as I'm aware it's never been remapped so Im at a loss, do you have any ideas? Thanks

Nice one for your help guys, everything is in order now, i had it the opposite way round and wondered why i was getting a little bit of compressor surge, im still having the map sensor issue that i posted about before, im gonna do a smoke test to see if i have any hidden vacuum leaks,ive replaced all of the lines running from the map sensor and boost control solenoid to the turbo and manifold and im still getting the code, last time i drove it i was motoring at about 3500/4000rpm and id kinda stalled, but not a stall as in cutting out, more like someone slammed their foot on an imaginary brake im putting it down to a boost cut or fuel cut, but until i get 5 minutes to hook up a boost gauge i cant say for sure which it is, still pretty sure its a vac leak though

Hi guys, cheers for your input, I really appreciate it, at the moment the recirc is mounted so the end opposite to the vacuum line is fitted to the tmic and the other side connected to the return port, is this correct or am I looking stupid? Cheers!!

Hi Guys, I'm having some issues, I bought my wrx with a vta BOV and I cannot stand that wooosh noise so I bought a standard recirculating valve, can anyone help me with the orientation of the valve as in which way is coming from the intercooler and which end leads back to the intake. if anyone could help it'd be appreciated! Thanks Guys!

Hi Mate, the problem seems to have moved from when the car is started to when I drive, seconds later it goes out, the error code is still 45 which says to me that maybe the wiring is faulty but as I say it only seems to come on when I hit a slight bump in the road, this problem is driving me mad!! I can't see any vacuum leaks around the tubes or anything so I think the issue could be wiring, and why it came on at start up could be because the wiring was not sitting right until I hit a bump in the road. cheers for your help! Jake

Hi, I appreciate your quick reply!! its not mapped and currently the only "mods" it has is a silicone intake hose if you would call that a mod😂 And a HKS VTA BOV, other than that it has a standard intercooler and standard air box minus the resonator in the wing, I will check for vacuum leaks and would intercooler leaks cause the map sensor to see more air? thanks for your help!! Jake

Hi All, firstly please let me apologise if this is in the wrong section l, it's my first post. Im having a problem that I cannot seem to cure, I keep getting a CEL every time I cold start the engine that goes out after about 5 minutes, it doesn't come on once the engine is warm, so I connected the read cables under the dash to find code 45, I changed the map sensor and the pressure exchange solenoid valve that sits below it and still the problem persists, if anyone can enlighten me as to why this is happening I would really appreciate it Thanks Guys! Jake