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Many thanks for all of the replies so far, all very helpful. Car up on axle stands at the moment, expected to be back on it's wheels at the weekend, so will post up again when it's running.

Should have said that the engine did run briefly once the oil and filter were replaced (oil filter topped up before fitting etc.) but realistically hasn't run for around 6 weeks

Thanks for the reply Scoobyghost. Oil and filter are brand new, changed them while the car has been standing. Are the sensor connectors easily accessible?

hi guys My Forester has been standing on the drive for around 6 weeks, mainly while I did some jobs on it. During that time the car hasn't been started or moved and the battery has gone flat, so I've removed it for charging. I'm aware that once the battery is reconnected that there is a learning 'process' that the ECU will need to go through to enable it to re-learn it's idling parameters. My concerns are for the engine itself. Having stood for this length of time will it be ok to 'just' start it up again (taking into account the re-learning process) Is there anything I can should do to mitigate any potential rattles/wear during the initial start up? As always your advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the reply stants. I think one of the ones from the breaker has been hit with a hammer it's so uneven. TBH I had one on the car when I bought it. Took it off and cleaned it but now not 100% sure which side it was on! I think it was missing from the drivers side so that's the one I told the dealer I needed. Hope If they are handed as both you and the part number suggest, I just hope I'm right... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

It's been a while so I thought I'd post a quick update. Swapped the sidelight bulbs to amber but think I'm going to swap them back again as the MOT is due soon and concerned car will fail because of them. Polished the head light lenses using an AutoGlym kit (they were everso slightly beginning to fade). Swapped the front drop links for the Meyle ones recommended by Mr.B (have also bought the same for the rear but not fitted yet). Decided that if I was swapping the drop links, that I would also change the front ARB bushes - decided to go for SuperPro 21mm. It seemed necessary to remove the front chassis connectors in order to get at the ARB mounts properly, and while they were off I took them to get powder coated. Then waxoyled them inside and out before refitting along with as much of the chassis as I could get into. Although the oil and filter have been changed during the full service I had done, I didn't know what had been fitted etc., so I decided to change the oil and filter again. This time I've fitted an OEM JDM black filter and new washer, along with Millers 5W40 XF LongLife (Autotecnica recommended Millers and going up to 5W40 to help with any potential oil consumption). - given that the XF LongLife 5W40 Cold Crank Viscosity (cP) 6,600 is on par with their XF LongLife 5W30 Cold Crank Viscosity (cP) 6,600 ) Off work tomorrow, so next job is finally getting around to fitting the rear Pedders, along with a good clean down and zinc primer and underbody waxoyl/stone guard before refitting....maybe I'll have time to WaxOyl the rear subframe, but we'll see.....

Bought a pair of strips blind over the phone from a breakers for £20 delivered. One is shoddy, the other is ok, but not as good as the one already on the car. Not particularly happy with them, but will keep them. Have now bought a new one from the local Subaru main dealer. Part number 91016SA000 - PROTR ARCH R (apparently they are handed?) £27.83 + VAT = £33.40 ridiculous price.

Sorry Mdon thanks for posting the pics. I think they look pretty good, nice to be a bit different (or Americanised perhaps?) I've added amber bulbs to my car, but with the MOT only 2 weeks away, I'm now concerned that running front sidelights with a colour other than white, is an MOT failure. Can someone in the know, provide a definitive answer on this please? Don't want to take the car only for it to fail MOT on the sidelights, would rather change them beforehand if it's going to be a problem. Cheers

Thanks for the reply stants. TBH, I expected owners to say they removed them. Better get on the lookout....

hi guys Would like to know your thoughts on the retention of the rubber strip that fits on the inner edge of the rear wheel arches. My car only has one fitted and wondered whether or not it's a good thing to replace them or leave them off. Although I can see that they would protect the arch lip from stone chips etc., they seem like they are a water/mud trap to me. Is the general consensus to keep them? If so does anyone know where I can buy them (other than from a main dealer that is). Cheers

Perfect. Thanks Mr. B, you sir are a star. In case others need a quick reference: Tightening torque taken from page 2170 of the PDF from Mr. B's link: M12 - 17mm -: 55 N·m (5.6 kgf-m, 41 ft-lb) M10 - 14mm -: 71 N·m (7.2 kgf-m, 52 ft-lb) NB: States that the M12 bolts are wax coated and should be replaced.

hi guys Hopefully a simple set of answers, can someone please tell me what the torque settings are for the 14mm/17mm bolts that fasten the LHS and RHS subframe connectors to the subframe and chassis. I have a Haynes manual but it doesn't seem to include the subframe connectors There are 5 x 14mm and 3 x 17mm If it helps info relating to the parts in question can be found in this anti rollbar replacement document I found online Thanks in advance

Thanks stants - have been happy with Autotecnica, they know their stuff - straight forward non nonense approach which is like a breath of fresh air. I would recommend them based on the work they've done on the car so far. They are around 30 miles from me which is a pain, but worth it. Thanks Steve (ocarros), I'm due to replace the drop links and ARB soon (supposed to do it weekend just gone but wrong bushes supplied) so will take a good look then but front fog lights look fine. When Autotecnica did the cam belt they mentioned that it was a bit tight and one of the reasons was the oil cooler pipe below the radiator, nothing was mentioned at the time so assume it's ok but no harm in double checking. I've tried using 8mm clear tubing around the drivers door rubber without any success, so perhaps I need to up the size. Any reduction in wind noise would be welcomed. Took the tweeter/door mirrow cover off and looks to be well packed with foam but agree that it's also a source of some wind noise. Trial and error I guess.

Thanks for the reply stants. Yes wheels are standard 16", brake fluid has been changed, so guess further changes limited although I do like the later SH 17" wheels or perhaps those from an Outback. The GodSpeed brake kit looks good value for money at sub £300 Which clutches are recommended - Exedy? Is the flywheel skim something that should always be done (within limits of course). Thanks re "ticking" noise, put my mind a rest about that one. Garage checked the tensionsers and said they would replace them if they thought they needed it - again for piece of mind perhaps I should get the belt replaced again including tensioners. Intending to use Millers 5W40 fully synthetic oil (thought process being that a slightly heavier oil will help with the engine miles being up). Should I be looking at checking the turbo oil pipe banjos for blockages? (read this somewhere but not sure where they are!) I live in the Crewe area of Cheshire - any recommentations for garages (car has been to AutoTecnica Buxton so far). Car doesn't smoke (that I've seen) but does use a bit oil - I've had the car 2½ months = 1000 miles = 200 ml oil topup - is this excessive?

hi guys I'm hoping this post will be a work in progress, and in the process help me to learn about the car, and which areas of maintenance to concentrate on in order of importance. My competence level: I've done various jobs on various cars, but nothing major in more recent times. I have no experience of Subaru's. OK, I've long since fancied owning a Subaru Forester and finally bought a 54 plate Forester 2.5 XT (1st reg Nov 2004). It's got 155,000 miles on the clock with 2 previous owners, and a fair amount of service history, mostly main dealer. Has a stainless cat back exhaust so sounds nice but not too loud. The engine is pretty quiet and pulls well. Since buying the car, the following work has been done. Full service, including front rear diff oil (Millers fully synthetic engine oil) NSR wheel bearing replaced (was noisy when I bought the car) Cam belt (Gates) replaced (not water pump or tensioners though), Antifreeze flushed and replaced along with a new thermostat Brake fluid replaced Front drop links and anti roll bar bushes replaced Jobs still to do Drivers door window doesn't work - have already bought a 2nd hand motor ready to replace NSR rear shocker was leaking at last MOT and was replaced with an aftermarket one (not self levelling) OSR is still stock self levelling, so only one side replaced (grr). I have bought a set of Pedders EziFit struts ready to fit, but want to take the time to clean down and paint the suspension strut housings with zinc primer and then coat the arches with under body seal/stone guard before refitting the new struts. OSF side light bulb is much dimmer that the NSF, so needs replacing Jobs I would like to do Do something with the brakes - they seem to work ok but have a very dead feel and not confidence inspiring Sensible upgrade suggestions appreciated (£££) Stop the wind noise! Clutch is stiff which I believe is a worn pressure plate, so may need changing at some point. Things I've heard but not sure what they are or what to do about them Ticking noise on light throttle - sounds like an injector - which stops immediately when off throttle Whining noise on acceleration - turbo? I've already fallen for the car and want to do 'right' by it, and the intention is to keep it for as long as possible. As it's a 2nd car, the annual mileage will be low and in the region of 6000 miles. I'd like to try and get the car to 200k if that's possible. Taking into account what has been done......... Comments so far welcomed and suggestions for other jobs that I should do or things I should check or just plain should be done would be great. Over to you.... Cheers

Thanks for the reply Mdon. Don't suppose you have a link? Cheers Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

These are what I've seen so far. 10 x 501 Amber (WY5W) 12v 5W W2,1x9,5D OSRAM LEDriving LED Retrofit Amber interior lights 2825YE-02B Amber 2000K - which may be too bright Sylvania Premium Led Amber Orange 194A 194 168 2825 T10 Four Bulbs Upgrade Light - but from the USA Sylvania ZEVO Led Amber Orange 194A 194 168 2825 T10 Two Bulbs Upgrade - USA again Whats the general consensus? Given it looks like a tricky job, want to fit something that will hopefully last a bit.

hi guys OSF sidelight bulb has gone dim and hoping it's just the bulb that needs replacing. Knowing that the bulbs are amber, it would be nice to keep the OEM look and have looked into the various options available including LED. Not having had the car long, I'm not sure which replacements to buy as I'm sure that some that are stated as being amber are probably not and don't want to make the mistake of getting the wrong colour. I'm hoping that the experiences of the forum members can steer me in the right direction. Cheers

Still looking for ones of these if anyone can help. Contacted CDF racing on ebay who have a new age bracket for sale which they say will fit - it looks the same as those for sale on their own site but is apparently a one piece job. That doesn't seem right so haven't bought it -based on the fact that a single bracket bolted to the suspension turret wouldn't seem to have the same strength as the 2 piece stopper and would seem to put more stress on the suspension turrent when compare to the 2 piece stopper of the same style. The "one piece" bracket looks exactly like this one but without the smaller bracket Here's a photo on Google of what the single piece looks like on eBay Any other suggestions greatly welcomed

2 x Meyle HD drop links ordered as per the eBay link from Mr B. Will fit them when they arrive - hopefully by the weekend. Seller claimed that they are handed although the part numbers are the same as stated by Mr B. On another note, when checking the drop links on the car I noticed that I could move the front ARB laterally causing the drop links to change angle (sway). Is this normal or does it suggest that the front ARB bushes need replacing? Any pointers gladly welcomed on this. If they do need to be replaced - any preferences on which ones?

Great thanks for the advice guys - much appreciated. Always good to know which products work and proven and tested. Mr. B - Heard good things about BluePrint - are their brake discs and pads as good as I've been told? If so, where's the best place to buy them?

Called Tegiwa this morning, chap I spoke to wasn't convinced that they have one to fit my car and said he's going to call other suppliers and get back to me - which seems a bit odd. Anyone have info on other manufacturers?

Hoping someone can advise on the best drop links for a 2004 SG Forester XT. Recently replaced both front drop links with what were stated to be genuine OEM items from ebay. Now noticed that the front is knocking again after less than 1000 miles and think it's the drop links again. If they have failed already, then would greatly appreciate advice on which drop links are generally considered the best. thanks in advance

Cheers guys - thanks for the quick replies. Tegiwa Imports are only a few miles away from me so will give them a call - if you guys think it will fit. Attached the best pic I have at the moment. Thanks Tidgy - Brake lines are also on the cards any recommendation? Goodridge / Hel / ?? Look forward to your replies.

hi Just joined to 'club', this is my first post :-) Bought a 2004 Forester 2.5 XT SG9 back in November, got various jobs done on the car, but one thing that's nagging me is the brake pedal feel. Have read on here and elsewhere that fitting a brake stopper can make a big difference to the pedal feel. Firstly apologies - I know that this has been asked many times and have read installation guides and info already on this site but still unsure of where to get one from. I spent a couple of hours last night trying to source one for my car, but not having much luck. The only one I seem to be able to find is the CDF racing one but I'm not sure if it will fit - Subaru classic brake stopper I don't want to have to do any drilling and most look like they match up to existing mounting locations anyway. Would someone lindly provide actual links to brake stopper products that will fit my car please? Cheers