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Thanks again @MrB I've messaged AceParts. If they can't help, I think I'll just go OEM.

Apologies in advance. Sorry to ask for such basic advice. I've been trying to buy a fuel filter for my Forester XT. Correction, I've now purchased 4 fuel filters for my Forester XT. Filter 1: BluePrint ADS72305 from a well known auction site. Had to return it because the filter supplied in a BluePrint box was not a BluePrint filter. Filter 2: BluePrint ADS72305 from Amazon Had to return it because the filter supplied in a BluePrint box was not a BluePrint filter. Filter 3: change tack. Mann WK711 from EuroCarParts (ordered online - collect from store) Had to return it because the box was so tatty, had 3 different stickers on it showing 3 different dates (one back in 2016). Clearly this filter had been sent out and returned several times, so didn't want it. Filter 4: Mann WK711 from a well known auction site. Despite asking the seller to check that the filter was new and unused, guess what, it too arrived in a tatty box and the filter had paint chips on the top edge. Didn't look new to me so have requested a refund. I've been in touch with BluePrint (Bilstein group) about my experience and they are looking into the matter. I would like to ask for advice on where I can buy a new filter from a reputable seller. I've decided that I want either a Mann WK711 (based on the fact that Mann specialise in filters) or a genuine Subaru filter. In order to avoid more tat, can someone in the know provide me with some details of who I should buy from. I'm aware of ICP, but wondered for example if the OEM filter can be purchased cheaper. Thanks in advance.

Try http://www.autotecnica-subaru.co.uk They have a fair amount of parts off the shelf. Bought complete rear hub for my Forester from them. Think it was around £130 delivered though. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Thanks again @stants - I'll remember the tip on ICP. Is that a given on the bhp vs engine code? All EJ255 turbo engine codes = 230bhp Is there anything else that can be checked to confirm?

I noticed the other day that one of the coolant hoses doesn't appear to be fitted fully. First off, what is this hose going to/from? It feels like there are 2 collars on the metal pipe and the hose is over the first one only. Is it supposed to be over the 2nd collar on the pipe? Dont' want to move it if's not necessary. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

been looking at various parts for my car recently and in some circumstances it seems a bit confusing as to what model/year/BHP my car is supposed to be. Hoping that one of you knowledgeable guys can help me out. The car is a November 2004 (54) Forester 2.5XT. From the first part of the VIN JF1 SG9 KD35G Which I understand to mean. JF1 = Passenger car, Fujitsu Heavy Industries SG9 S = Forester G = Wagon 9 = Displacement 2.5L AWD KD3 K = Steering position = Right hand drive D = Engine and transmission = DOHC Turbo Full-time AWD 5-speed MT 3 = Drive = Full-time AWD Single range G G = Model year = 2005MY Engine type: EJ255 Based on the above is the car and early 230 hp or a late 211 hp engine/car? When looking for parts, what should I be stating?

thanks @stants - have emailed them asking for confirmation and hose lengths. out of curiosity are Goodridge considered better than other manufacturers such as Hel?

hi guys Anyone know why Goodridge don't do brake hose kits for the the Forester SG?

Quick update to say that the water ingress problem is now resolved. As suspected water was getting past the inter-cooler scoop and running around the sound deadening and on to the top of the expansion/filler tank. Removed the scoop again, cleaned up the recess and fitted a bead of butyl bolt on panel sealer (the sort of stuff that gets used as a water shedder seal in doors). As supplied, the bead was a bit too wide for the recess so just gently fed it around the circumference, stretching it slightly as I went. Then refitted the scoop, pressed all around before tightening down again. Couple of rain showers later and the engine is still dry.

Removed the intercooler scoop today. The car had stood for a couple of dry days. It rained this morning and before removing the scoop the expansion tank was wet. With the scoop removed it was clear to see that the gasket on the base wasn't doing much and therefore letting water past the rim and into underside of the bonnet/sound deadening. The water then tracked to the lowest point above the radiator tank. I've also removed the sound deadening because it had begun to deteriorate. I've temporarily replaced the scoop while I source something to replace the base gasket. Clear daylight can be seen at certain points around the base so no wonder it was leaking. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

.... But why would the tank still get wet when the car has stood still for several days before a rain storm? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Thanks Jay762 - based on your experience I'll remove the sound deadening and see how it goes. I'll take a look at the scoop fixings at the same time....

More of a query than a problem which I hope someone can shed a bit of light on. Following rain, the radiator tank is getting covered in water. (water rather than antifreeze mixture). At first I thought it was the cap, but I've replaced it already due to a faulty seal. As long as the weather stays dry, the tank is dry and the car isn't losing any anitfreeze mixture. I'm assuming that it's something to do with the intercooler intake scoop whereby water is somehow making it's way onto the sound deadening material on the underside of the bonnet and running across and dripping on to the tank. It seems to happen no matter what angle the car is - the common denominator is that when it rains, the tank gets wet. Does this sound feasible? Is this a common occurence - hence the drain hole in the top of the tank?

Thanks Stants - you were correct - the holes have a nut welded to the inside of the inner wing. (M6) The Tegiwa brake stopper (New Age Subaru Impreza) is now fitted. A few things I noted: The length of the original bolts is too short to use with the bracket. Luckily you get some in the kit - sadly they are the same length as the original (20mm x M6)!! so bought some new flange headed M6 x 25mm bolts The rubber mounts contain a metal insert. The bolts in the bracket fit through the metal insert which is designed to keep the bracket mounting rubber from being crushed. Sadly, the insert will fit through the mounting holes in the bracket so would allow the rubber mount to be squashed. Fitted a 6mm penny washers between the brake stopper bracket and the rubber mount. (top and bottom). This prevented the metal insert from travelling too far and made for a more secure fit The M8 cheese head hex bolt was too long for my car and fouled the wiring harness to the engine. Cut 10mm off the bolt which made for a much better fit. Not sure how much it matters but my car has a small black earth wire under the bottom bracket fixing which connects to the back of the engine. After fitting, I made sure that there was still earth continuity between the earth wire and the engine/chassis.. First impression? I can tell the difference - the brake pedal feel is better - the braking performance remains the same. Worthwhile? I think so.

Taken photos. Looking again at the 2 mounting lug location, it looks like they are actually holes that are blanked off with some kind of seam sealer. If that's the case then maybe the brake stopper will fit....just need to double check the main bracket mounts. Will take some more photos when I get around to attempting to fit it...

Picked up a Tegiwa new age Impreza brake stopper today. Looks like it won't fit. The small support bracket looks like it fits to 2 studs on the suspension housing which are missing on my car. I can see exactly where they would be but would mean drilling holes which I want to avoid. The main bracket holes also look out of line. Will take pics and post up. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Thanks again Mr. B for clearing up my confusion. 3/16" SAE and copper/nickel (cupro) it is. I guess the important part is the shape of the flare.

Am correct in thinking that the visual reference link above to the brake pipe flaring tool ...is not the correct one? The tools are stamped as 3/16" SAE or 4.75 DIN 3/16" = 4.7625 mm = SAE ?? 4.75 mm = DIN ?? Confused!

Many thanks for the replies. Very helpful as usual. @MrB: thanks for the links - any preference on fittings - re quality? A supplier or link would be great Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

hi guys Searched the site but didn't find a definitive answer, so hoping one of you knowledgeable members can confirm:- What type of brake pipe flare do Subaru's use? Looking for a brake pipe flaring tool such as :- Draper BPF/HAND/SAE Expert 3/16'' SAE or Draper Expert 4.75mm Din ...but not at these prices!... Thanks in advance Edit:: Whats the brake pipe material used? Copper or Copper/Nickel or steel?

Car passed MOT last week with no advisories. Was a bit anxious as this was the first MOT but all good for now. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

hi guys. Been a while since the last post. The pedders rear struts are now fitted. Car now sits much better and height matches on both sides of the car around 670mm measured from the bottom rim of the wheel to the top of the arches. Turned into a bit of a job TBH. Removed old struts, drop links and rear anti roll bar. Took a good look at the condition of the underneath of arches, strut housing etc., and found that there were signs of rust. Removed all under body sealant around the strut housing including all of the 'holes' in the curved metal lining/strengthening insert (apologies, I'm sure there's a better description!).. Now that it was back to bare metal, I could see the rusty bits which clearly needed treating and protecting. Luckily it seems I caught it in time as it was surface rust and not corrosion. Used Hammerite Kurust to treat the rusty areas, Followed by 2 coats of U-POL Davids Zinc 182 primer Treated all seams (including the circular 'holes' in the strut housing) with U-POL Grey Stripe seam sealer Followed by a healthy coating of Hammerite Underbody seal Shutz. While leaving it to dry, changed the rear anti roll bar bushes. (fronts are SuperPro but have fitted First Line on the rear). Noticed the rear silencer rubbers were quite badly split so replaced them with Powerflex EXH009 Replaced the rear drop links for new Meyle HD - part no. 34-16 060 0004/HD Due to MOT concerns, I replaced the side lights again - removed the amber and replaced with long life clear bulbs. (OSRAM W5W 501 Ultralife) Have taken photos if anyone is interested - I can post them up. Car has been off the road for around 6 weeks now and MOT has expired, so that's next on the list. To complete the rear arch protection I still need to Waxoyl the interior of the boot. Still plenty of other jobs I want/need to do, one of which is the drivers door window....and do something with the brakes. I've also bought on impulse, a set of 17" 5 spoke alloys from a Forester SH - still in 2 minds about fitting these - I do prefer the 5 spoke design but at the same time wanted to keep the car fairly standard looking with the 16's, but the 17's have more scope for the brakes....

Thanks again for all of the replies and advice. The car is up and running again now :-) Removed the crank sensor connector, turned the engine over 10-15 seconds. refitted the crank sensor connector. Turned it over again, started almost straight away, no rattling, sweet as a nut. Only thing to add was that after removing and reconnecting the crank sensor, the engine warning lamp stayed illuminated and the cruise control lamp was constantly flashing. After the car had fully warmed up, I stopped and restarted. Engine warning lamp stayed illuminated and cruise control lamp continued to flash. Stopped the car, connected the ODB reader, showed 1 fault - the crankshaft sensor. So reset it and restarted the car. All good again now. Out of curiosity, why did the cruise control lamp flash?

Thanks for the updates. One more question before I try to start it up? I've not had the car that long, but the way it starts seems to me to be a bit 'old school'. What happens is this: Without touching the accelerator, turn the key, engine starts. The revs then immediately start to rise to say 1500 rpm (like an old school choke would). As the engine warms a little (or you gently blip the throttle) the revs start to lower and settle nicely when the engine is warm (or you drive the car). Is this normal? In contrast, my Octavia Scout (2008), just starts and immediately settles at 900rpm which is what I thought the Forester would do. Done diagnostic scans previously and there are no faults registered. Again any advice welcomed. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Sorry, no haven't got around to getting the Tegiwa brake stopper. (hopefully in next few weeks when I return to looking at improving the brakes again) Attached photos of master cylinder though :-)