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Joel P

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  • Location:
    Midlands
  • Subaru Model
    06 Forester XT

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  1. I might be interested in the shocks and wheels. How much were you looking for them?
  2. Hi Hughieboy, I know I'm a little late to the party but thought you might be interested in my own experiances in this area. 06 2.5 XT can absolutely be remapped - I've done it on mine, myself with a tactrix cable. I've also experianced slightly lumpy acceleration as it comes onto boost (2 - 2.5k rpm), but I only noticed it after I did my first remap. What I supect is happening in my case, is that the car is either overboosting or underboosting, and the ecu is over compensating. The amount of compensation applied by the ecu can be modified - it called turbo dynamics, and I have yet to get it quite dialed in. I have also had my car die when at full boost, overtaking etc. I thought the engine had blown! I don't know if its the same as you experianced, but for me it was a sudden jolt, similar to hitting the rev limiter, except I was only at ~5500rpm. In this case it was again due to over boosting after I'd raised the target psi. The ecu has a maximum boost level, which if I recall is set around 13.5 PSI. When the car senses a pressure greater than this it will cut all fuel to the engine. The solution for me was just to raise this limit a couple of PSI, though on a car that has not been remapped, and has a stock exhaust and intake I would not expect to hit that limit, so it might of been something else. In regards to BHP, each individual dyno is different and the figures you'll get on one compared to another(even of the same make/model) can be very different - so you might not have lost as much as you think. That said, if it was a Subaru specialist, you would hope he knows what a stock, brand new car shows on his dyno (They might not get many of those though). In short, a remap may well fix a number of the issues you mentioned... or it might not. But it will make it more fun, just make sure you take it someone who's not going to do something stupid, as it is possible to wreck the engine if they make a big mistake, or don't back off when warning sign start showing. A stiff clutch isn't necessarily a sign of failure, mine is very stiff and has been scince I bought it 18 months ago. The important thing is that it's not slipping when you haven't got your foot on the pedal, that it engages at a sensible point in the travel of the pedal, and you're able to pull away smoothly. Don't know if that helped at all, and sorry for waffling, but I hope you get things sorted. Joel
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