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Newbie, just tested a 2004 Forester


theador
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Hey all; I've just test driven a very good condition 2004 SUBARU Forester XT turbo.

Seems to be a genuine seller, seems to have good history, has recently been sent to a Subaru garage and had the belts changes.

I know very little about these cars; other than I've always wanted to try one out. Can anyone tell me if there's anything I should be looking for?

 

Also what's the difference between the engines newer/older.

It's just gone over the 100k miles mark; is there a big service at this mileage that I don't know about? I'm imagining the new belts are now good for another 60k?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

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Hello welcome ☺ if it's had all the belts done your laughing, this costs over 800 at subaru although an independent will do it for half that,

Is it a 2l or 2.5l engine ? Have a look at the buying guide as it will apply to the forester as it's pretty much identical to the impreza,

The rear shocks may be worth inspecting, some have self leveling suspension which is prone to failing, the car will sit lower at the rear if this is the case.

Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk

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Hi, thanks for the info; it's a 2.0ltr engine. Is it worth holding out for a 2.5?

 

 

Hello welcome ☺ if it's had all the belts done your laughing, this costs over 800 at subaru although an independent will do it for half that,

Is it a 2l or 2.5l engine ? Have a look at the buying guide as it will apply to the forester as it's pretty much identical to the impreza,

The rear shocks may be worth inspecting, some have self leveling suspension which is prone to failing, the car will sit lower at the rear if this is the case.

Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk

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G'day - We have had a 2004 2.5i XT Auto Luxury since new. 86k on the clock regularly serviced by a Subaru authorised non dealer. Hasn't missed a beaut in 11 odd years used daily mostly short hauls regular trips to the mountains. Only use Penrite oil and 98 octane Petrol. We would have updated last year but we're not real impressed with the latest turbo and its CVT

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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only other issue here in uk with 2.5 is potential for road tax costs, they going up all the time & cut off age for price brackets could alter so sticking to 2.0 can be safer bet.

as said head gasket more prone to issues on 2.5, main thing is finding good cared for car, sounds sweet, gearbox & transmission still smooth/tight & body straight/original paint. few tweaks on 2.0 xt will net you more power should you want/need it ...

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I've found a nice low mileage 2.5 XT that I'm going to look at this morn. Thanks for the advice guys; this one's a 2004 with 61k on it. I spoke with the Subaru garage who carried out the 60k service in March. It's had pretty much all the gaskets replaced (including head gasket), belts, water pump etc. Sounds like it could be a good one; dealer knew the previous owner, says the car is immaculate inside and out. But then I guess he would say that.

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make sure you get an insight of the bills to check his story as car sales man talk very sweet and are not home the moment you hand over your hard earned cash and getting the keys.

 

good luck

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Yes I know what you mean. The receipts all seem to add up at least and kind of match the story. I spoke with the local Subaru dealer who'd had the car in for the last service too and they didn't have any advisories or bad notes against the car.

 

 

 

 

make sure you get an insight of the bills to check his story as car sales man talk very sweet and are not home the moment you hand over your hard earned cash and getting the keys.

 

good luck

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oooh the fun has already started. 

 

When I arm the alarm, the car beeps continuously for about 10-15 seconds then the alarm goes off. Any ideas? The light on the steering column generally seems to stay constant illuminated rather than any fancy flashing.  I've checked all doors and bonnet are closed, I'm not sure where the bonnet switch is.

 

It's got the factory Cat 1 Alarm, any hints or tips on this?

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That will be the sigma alarm, you should have a 4 digit code to go with that & drop down keypad in coin tray near driver right knee.

If you don't have a 4 digit code you can reprogram one while have working remote & best done as when remote lost/busted you stuck.

Your problem sounds like door, boot or bonnet switch, boots can be a pain so check shut proper, check bonnet switch which should be on metal bracket behind the 2 bolts that hold washer bottle on, what can happens with those is careless mechanic puts them back in wrong hole on the bracket so switch not contacting on bonnet, also check wiring for it & check all door switches seem be working via interior light or better via multimeter.

doc on the sigma alarm is linked below that maybe useful.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

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Many thanks, Yes that bonnet may very well be the culprit. Recent work (by Subaru) includes: Sump gasket, Rocker cover gaskets, fuel pump gasket, which I imagine they would have needed to take out a few parts in the engine bay. Also, this boot problem you mention, the boot appears to be closed, the light goes out, are there any other tell-tale signs of a poorly closed bootlid?

 

 

 

That will be the sigma alarm, you should have a 4 digit code to go with that & drop down keypad in coin tray near driver right knee.

If you don't have a 4 digit code you can reprogram one while have working remote & best done as when remote lost/busted you stuck.

Your problem sounds like door, boot or bonnet switch, boots can be a pain so check shut proper, check bonnet switch which should be on metal bracket behind the 2 bolts that hold washer bottle on, what can happens with those is careless mechanic puts them back in wrong hole on the bracket so switch not contacting on bonnet, also check wiring for it & check all door switches seem be working via interior light or better via multimeter.

doc on the sigma alarm is linked below that maybe useful.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

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Is there any way to disable all the pin-switches on the alarm? I couldn't see anything obvious in that doc; only for the ultrasonics.

 

I can see that pressing 0 will deactivate the faulty one for one cycle; I wonder if there's a way to disable it until further notice

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Many thanks Mr B.

 

It was indeed the bonnet switch. Possibly the easiest fix ever: the switch was mounted correctly, but the soft metal bracket had bent backwards a little, pulled it forward again and hey presto!

 

 

 

 

That will be the sigma alarm, you should have a 4 digit code to go with that & drop down keypad in coin tray near driver right knee.

If you don't have a 4 digit code you can reprogram one while have working remote & best done as when remote lost/busted you stuck.

Your problem sounds like door, boot or bonnet switch, boots can be a pain so check shut proper, check bonnet switch which should be on metal bracket behind the 2 bolts that hold washer bottle on, what can happens with those is careless mechanic puts them back in wrong hole on the bracket so switch not contacting on bonnet, also check wiring for it & check all door switches seem be working via interior light or better via multimeter.

doc on the sigma alarm is linked below that maybe useful.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

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Many thanks Mr B.

 

It was indeed the bonnet switch. Possibly the easiest fix ever: the switch was mounted correctly, but the soft metal bracket had bent backwards a little, pulled it forward again and hey presto!

job jobbed, well done ...

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