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Mr B

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Mr B last won the day on April 7

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About Mr B

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    UK Devon
  • Subaru Model
    Forester Gen-1&2

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  1. Yes, if you look at your used assembly for reference you see motor attached by three #3 JIC cross head machine screws . Undo those with care and tips from main post and job jobbed in no time . Take care with the door trim card and the moisture sheet and butyl adhesive . some people make a pigs ear of it and looks like a wild bear or hypo child has vandalised it ... I would of advised against getting used drivers as they likely well used and have some water ingress in motor, back door motors or earlier cast alloy motors are best used buy . the early cast alloy motors with bolt flange
  2. Perhaps look and see if the black button top part with the silver trim can be unclipped and fitted to original switch assembly . Button top locates on 2 plastic lugs and older style ones could be removed fairly easily .
  3. Yes it seems normal for the US version to have auto mode for both fronts . The extra auto mode should not really be an issue as that internal difference to the switch . socket fitting is a good thing, is the pin position and number of pins same between the US and your switch . If pin position and count exactly same it is indeed just a case of change some wires around in the plug on the wiring harness in the door . What the part number of your original switch unit ? From what I seen of JDM and RHD models from Thailand Singapore, Malaysia, Australia and UK they normally same or inte
  4. Is this the drivers main control panel switches ? US version quite different as LHD and 2017 has different connection sockets as well I suspect ! . Does the US version you purchased have auto mode for both front windows or just drivers window And your original switch, is that auto mode for just drivers window same as european RHD . image below of euro RHD Drivers switch panel If your original switch same button layout and wiring sockets same layout and pin count I may have wiring diagram but suspect it be easier and maybe cheaper long term source correct RHD switch pa
  5. worse case is nasty court hearing and fine and car in a crusher . Done right it hard for MOT inspector know but MOT test changes are likely in emission equipment unfortunately DPF and EGR systems are such a poor concept huge amount have bypassed them and that made a lot of companies unhappy, they want your money, no real care about pollution that just an excuse to sell lesser quality and engineer systems that cost you more money maintain and more garbage for landfill . About time consumers got wise and stopped buying new junk ...
  6. old is gold. you far better off in terms of durability & reliability with older models . dealer warranties never a sure thing as only as useful as their technical diligence and willingness to do the right thing and if you don't have recommendations or have experience with the dealer you won't know what support you likely get (and they be charging you plenty for it in the price). I would never recommend buying anything from dealers without test drive and at least 2 decent thorough inspections . Also if you have not viewed a few of them you really won't have a clue on a good one or bad
  7. What year outback ? Do you have 4 digit pin code for alarm ?
  8. If you wedge a cut down bottle or funnel on end of handle it amplifies the sounds much cleaner and don't need poke it in your ear . Rod knock pretty easy recognise once heard a few, tends be most audible if rev to 2k and quickly lift off . Very minimal rod knock can be hard concluded 100% .
  9. Don't get me started on DPF's Absolute madness, storing soot in a can to spit it out on the highway and using immense amount of fuel and complex systems to achieve it . DPF cost 10 to 15% in possible mpg figures and if engineering had been targeted at fuelling use you looking at 20%+ reduction on diesel mpg . Engine oil and filter changes are more frequent due to regen cycle causing diesel in engine oil . (more toxic waste and financial waste) The systems also consume huge amount of parts in dpf and egr system and harmful chemicals trying clean them to keep operational . The end res
  10. Very old cars yes but go back 30 years and you had cars that consume power when locked stationary . Some would pull around 5 to 20mA which not a big deal, others with more modules, alarms be pulling 15 to 25mA which also acceptable. Lot of most modern can be 25 to 55mA and more than that if has wake up checks . Seems to me most vehicle engineers overlooked need for minimal standby battery drawer and have no criteria on a realistic set standby timespan that the battery can endure . I got no idea why many of these modern cars have so much parked current drawer and module activity besides
  11. ^ Most of the issue is it takes too much when parked up locked, for sure your sort of usage not ideal but generally starting doesn't take excessive amounts unless extended crank times and with car running you won't be using charge out of battery Your driving scenario highlights faults more quickly but it underlying engineering flaws that mainly to blame as even in more ideal driving scenario early battery fatigue and occasional flat battery is happening unfortunately . E Boxer is bad for it and no reason for it to be when have a secondary battery system that can add charge to the 12v and p
  12. It quite simply batteries suffering early failure due to fact standard high parked/locked current drawer fatigues the battery rapidly from too much low charged state . Obviously some user usage highlights the issue faster but when you can't leave your vehicle for 14 days at airport car park without needing keep a jump pack on standby and keep replacing batteries at a financial cost to someone and an environmental cost to us all 😞 From what I seen I would assume some module software changes could help ! Far too much current drawer and far too many effected and not just a Subaru brand issu
  13. older is better, 2004/2005, slightly better vehicle tax, slightly simpler emission equipment and little better built (SF was best build quality by a long shot), . Look for rust rear turrets, inner arch, rear subframe, rear inner sills and front c frame . And I mean really look for it, can look fine but need be touched and tap tested. Rear SLS suspension fails too but that pretty easy fix. Engines and transmisions ned extra thorough check make sure not been spanked to death and not been run on a shoestring budget . Crash damage always worth closer look on performance models (panel gaps
  14. exhaust back pressure control valve .
  15. I'd go original NGK iridium and close the gap by about 0.15mm As for torque 25Nm be sensible, most of torque relates to crushing the sealing washer so I take NGK remarks over subaru .
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