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Mr B

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Mr B last won the day on May 5

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    UK Devon
  • Subaru Model
    Forester Gen-1&2

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  1. you touch roughly or spill water on anything when done the radiator ! Pulling plug at tank only eliminates pump, harness could be shorting, check relay/fuse box and try split circuit down and don't overlook visual inspection ability to find likely area of fault .
  2. New radiator will be sensible cost effective solution . NRF Nissens or Denso sensible options. NRF can be had silly cheap off eBay seller carpartsinmotion as regulars in eBay coupons so pretty easy wait for 15 or 20% off coupon code .
  3. well really depends on condition of rest of it and mileage . possibly 800 to 1,200 to right person ! always try high as can come down but can't go up ... If it really clean and I mean really clean you be better doing an engine swap, if it more good average you probably find a very to proper clean replacement in mid 2K to mid 3K range .
  4. If you Foz XT super clean fix it, if not sell yours for repair and buy another, don't sell as scrap as you won't get a lot . No idea why want use your heads, if engine cooked to death and been having long term heating issues heads likely not great at best or garbage at worst . A good used engine can be anything from 500 to 1K pending on luck, time you willing wait and how good/complete it comes . Good job on swapping heads involve machine shop costs and is fair few parts want replace make job a no ballache and no come back effort . If found good donor engine for pretty much straight swap it could be as low as 1,400 and if start stripping heads as well it going be 2K and up easily for worthwhile effort . Rebuilding from new short block going be over 3K assuming your heads good enough and need basic machine shop services but if they bad then you need source them too . Sensible option is source used engine or MOT failure with good engine then scrap donor car and your engine for bit of cash back . Main areas to effect what you do is true condition of your car and how long you can wait find good used engine/donor car .
  5. looks pretty close to factory height . measure it from wheel centre to arch folded lip and compare to the chart . If do want/need tweak height further you could add 5mm to 10mm spacer above the top hats (can buy these pretty cheap online) . Spacers are not a 1 to 1 ratio, add a 5mm spacer any you gain closer to 7mm measured at wheel to arch ... Go enjoy the Fozzy now it got it;s dignity back ...
  6. If you need any detailed help just ask, I done loads of these sigma alarms and they fairly easy resolve. Might not be so easy if messy disconnection . Ideally want pinpoint the parasitic current draw first rather than guessing . Really not that hard narrow down the circuits drawing current and any mechanic worth paying could do it . If it is the alarm you can buy used alarms pulled from vehicle and with they keyfob supplied so can easily program it. 80 to £150 normally gets alarms parts, swapping parts and programming can be DIY job .
  7. Well I would suspect alarm disconnection likely area to be issue, that garage just palming you off, least they could of done is few basic checks . don't get too many parasitic issues on that vintage Fozzy but alarm poorly disconnected could cause it and certainly needs looking into . If you near me I would of looked at that as expect conclude something within an hour . I generally never remove them as cheaper/quicker repair with used parts and better end result . Seems it constant fault it not going be that hard find root cause. Is the siren still under the bonnet ?
  8. you need do a parasitic draw test, either current clamp or voltage drop across fuses to see how big a draw and hopefully pinning it down to a circuit then individual items on that circuit . The sigma m30 alarm is a possible culprit, either main module behind glovebox area or siren/backup battery on bulkhead under bonnet . If is alarm used alarm module parts can fix that cheaply and the siren can be opened and 9v battery replaced . If you not up to multimeter/amp clamp testing take it someone who can, should be easy find as constant fault .
  9. Main issue is will you like auto ! I think you going have drive one and conclude that yourself . 150K plus is what I class as upper limit buying used, pending on use and quality of care they can be A1 beyond that but wear and tear niggles will occur higher the miles and harder the use and you likely incur more minor faults/repairs on higher mileage examples, having said that most very low mileage cars can be garbage as short journeys in rough roads wear them out quicker so don't go crazy chasing ultra low mileage cars . All you got do is conclude you like auto box and make proper effort buy cleanest example you can find and don't be afraid over pay a little for proper clean example as it will pay you back 10x over . I will say from my experience cleanest examples I find always tend be automatics and also auto prices not as high as a manual for turbo model . Turbo engine and auto box can have more expensive faults over non turbo and manual transmission so be thorough and be prepared have spend on at least one fault get it A1 . Just be diligent and if not 100% happy walk away, plenty 04 to 06 XT models available if willing travel and can wait 3 or 4 months for right one crop up . Good time of year see them cropping up too . Once you get one and happy with it look into quality underbody coatings like lanolin based products and good quality cavity wax for inner arch front c frame and sills . Keep on top of underbody protection from day 1 on a clean base car and you get 20 to 30 years out them . Hope you sort one out and fall in love all over again 🙂 ....
  10. set of winter tyres and rims is best result, some all seasons not bad but in many cases it a mix of trying be good at it all resulting in not very good at any conditions . Not biggest fan of bridgestone, think they could of done lot better for forester vx and outback odels for uk climate and vehicles likely usage .
  11. unfortunately battery swapping is just a band aid covering poor electrical engineering choices on sleep mode activity and parasitic draw values . I can see same dilemma in 6 to 8 years as the diesel issues which is off to scrap for 300 quid as no repair solution at acceptable cost and owners fed up/bankrupt from constant issues and diagnostic bills .
  12. if goes away in neutral it gearbox output side, could be low oil and lets hope it is but also highly likely be shaft bearing .
  13. What was failing first, bottom end or turbo, is just as likely bottom end bearing debris effected turbo. The reality is if you want hassle free cheap motoring stay away from subaru diesel and any modern dpf diesel as they all garbage due to the emission equipment that an engineering joke and environmental disaster . The EZ20 diesels are extra garbage due to crank failure and bottom end bearing issues . Used engines are so expensive as demand far exceeds supply due to fact they all will fail terminally due to crank issues that not really been fully resolved . We get loads of 2008 to 2013 dead diesels and 99% of them are scrap at 300 to 500 quid value as no way owners going front the repair cost and we can't put much guarantee on engines due to known issue with cranks, injector learning and dpf issues that not really fixable without re-engineering at mechanical and software levels . . Had quite a few dragged on the flat bed and off to the crusher from my yard. Is absolute disgrace to owners who bought this expensive garbage and bigger disgrace to the planet that got absorb all the waste created from constant repair parts and service chemicals make it work to mot emission standard and then crushing of the junk 😞 If you could see the chemical waste and part waste from my garage for modern dpf diesels compared to older cars you would realise they exact opposite of environmental benefit . Even I myself could not buy them at scrap value and repair for resale without financial loss . As it already been messed with it hard trace exactly what happened and a teardown would be a full strip hot tank and rebuild and I probably want use newest crank revision in rebuild cover myself and you from more grief . Ideally oil and oil filter should of been examined for debris before new turbo ordered let alone fitted . about best case scenario for professional effort from someone who actually knows what they doing on EZ20 rebuild and making effort build it right is likely 4.5K . you could cut some corners and probably come under 2.5K if your internals turn out in tolerance & serviceable condition but you could be back to square one within months as these engines fail so easily . The problem also is anyone who knows what they doing and got a lot of work flow don't really want touch them thus quotes are high as only do it if good earner ...
  14. headlight height level sensor link Can buy oem or universal arms that you cut to length .
  15. ^ should be an easy low cost fix then. Use the image in post above which subaru service manual data to measure your before and after heights . Drive a few days before do final height measures .
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