Mr B

If it the linkage rod that snapped you can get replacements of those or make one . In the instance of the pressed metal bracket or pressed metal arms have failed you can re-fabricate these if the rest of the pressed metal not a complete rotted mess. . oem sensors around £100 mark but a repair if it the mechanical linkage related part can be fraction of that . Last SG9 one I remember doing the linkage rod with an aftermarket adjustable one was £20 ... Ideally want pic so can see point of failure and exact sensor type for best part match option .

More modern = more unreliable . From working on this junk daily we see more faults and problems on the newer vehicles, component quality and way it is assembled is a massive decline (and I mean MASSIVE), sure it high tec and comfort but when the electronics/software are cheap/sloppy manufacture and the general assembly is a optimised cost effort you pay the price in constant repair bills and hassle resolving stupid problems/faults . .

B&B will be same as Febi Bilstein just different box . Most of the low to low middle priced stuff is garbage unless you getting likes of old quality stock at reduced price. Some good old stock or genuine/OEM options silly cheap do turn up on eBay. Amayama sometimes is super fair price for genuine part . I would make effort get a Japan mainland made bearing, . If on a budget try go for something with some known reputation .

You got picture of remote fob and the siren . Has the alarm bonnet switch been bent out of position while working on wipers (shouldn't cause exact issues you detailing but best check everything and assume nothing .

flange head style > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335844459486 standard head style that uses a spring washer https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335869263703 Can use either or match to what you already got . Worth noting if you buy Delphi ball joints (part number TC959 ) they come supplied with new flange head pinch bolts and are like £10:50 a ball joint on a good deal day . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336390558894

If the current not working keyfob doesn't seem respond during programming the most likely conclusion will be it faulty then you either want send it out to a repair service or buy a used known good one off eBay and program that one then swap the fob board into your key ... Used keyfobs and keyfob repair services can be found on eBay .

You do, it is mounted in dash pull out coin tray near the drivers door (in vicinity of your knee when sat in drivers seat ). You should have a 4 digit pin code that can be used with this keypad to arm/disarm alarm and do some setting and programming tasks.. If you have at least one working remote you can do programming using that remote (you can also use a working remote to program a 4 digit code should you not have one or code you have appears not to work, sometimes original code gets changed by a owner and documented details not updated . ) Before programming remotes I would highly advise you see if any 4 digit pin code you have works with alarm and learn how operate keypad with this code and get some feel for things prior to trying anything such as programming remotes or setting a new pin code . Once you know you have a working pin you could try reprogramming remote but you want be 100% sure battery fitted correct and good before doing that . If you read the attached document fully you will see instructions on using remote for programming rather than pin code and this is procedure that I find easier and more consistent in use . The keypad and beeps/flashes can be a bit funky to get use to for programming so don't expect perfect result first time and be sure educate yourself well before using it and be prepared for some learning to take place during trying to do the process .

see my reply in other thread you posted this in ...

The pictured key is totally normal key see with a Forester SG SG9 with the Sigma M30 alarm . It basically the normal Subaru Key that has a custom housing done by Sigma to house their alarm fob board . You either fitted battery incorrectly damaging battery contact terminals or the board gone bad in process of swapping battery (or already bad prior to battery swap ! ) . You certainly want to recheck the battery fitment but I assume you put battery in it as remote stopped working so is the potential fob fault rather than battery at fault (common for buttons go bad on these) . The instructions for programming remotes is in attached document in this thread . Another good option could be sending your keyfob off to a remote key repair service, this is somewhere in region of 25 to 40 quid . A lot of auto locksmiths won't touch these as that old they got no Sigma interface cable or software or experience on them . Other thing you can do is buy a ussed key same design (easy get off eBay as it nothing uncommon) and put the fob board from that in you Key and program it to your car Sigma alarm .

As mentioned before you can buy a used alarm main unit and plug it in and program your fobs to it and set a new pin code for it if so wished. Only plus with that is remote locking be functional again . Downside is you still dealing with 20 year old european electronics and as it basically can leave you stranded it best pulled out and binned as saves same issue twice (siren board corroded/faulty by leaking P9 battery being super common). I done repairs both ways for customers (option tended to be driven by their preference on alarm and locking). you can add a remote locking system if pull alarm but that adds cost . A working M30 used module is cheapest fix with everything same as owners already use to . You can find used M30 modules pulled from Subarus for around 80 to 150 quid, it must come with pin or a working keypad ( I like a keypad with it as then you got a third keypad that can be used for parts in your key should one of yours fail and it generally easier programming using an existing remote than using pin code) . You got options and none are technically difficult or needs specialist equipment thus the cost to resolve it either way is not crazy money . If you half competent and can google info you could swap alarm module or even bypass it to get running as it really nothing more than cutting and joining some wires ...

Reality is it not that big an issue overcome one way or the other . Options are disabling the sigma m30 and bypassing immobiliser circuits (rejoining wires the 2 immobiliser circuits spliced into) . Trying to get the current Sigma working to some functional extent again or replacing the modules with known working used ones (needs be supplied with pin code and/or working fob allow easy programming). No need be a specialist in Subaru as this System is basically added after production line assembly and Sigma systems used on many vehicles in that era including a lot of euro cars . Basically any fairly competent auto electrician, alarm installer or decent mechanic can do this work as it nothing fancy and all you really need is a brain and a multimeter, wiring info is helpful but not a must . What I would do is do few basic things see if can get alarm to function, main thing that goes bad is the siren that located under the wiper plastic trim and sits in the cowl space, this has a P9 rechargable battery inside and they go bad and leak and decay the siren board causing various alarm function issues, just unplug the wire that goes to this siren and test alarm, Also test alarm by having ignition key on and pressing fob button and see if that turns immobilser off ! if does alarm may start function normally again if lucky . You can leave siren unplugged and only issue is you get no siren tones but all will function if rest of system good . If system seems totally unresponsive simplest option is bypassing the Sigma alarm and that pretty quick job to do, only downside is loose the remote central locking as sigma alarm install removed the factory subaru remote locking . The Sigma alarms are nothing but potential problems at 20 years old as it euro made crap, all the Subaru Japan electrics and electronics will be fine and they all independant of the Sigma (besides remote locking) . Even with the Sigma bypassed you still got the Subaru factory transponder key chip immobiliser and that good enough on an old basic Forester . Modern car thieves be lost at trying deal with a car with a physical key and a mechanical handbrake lol . M30 document attached which might be helpful and does include info on pin code use. changing pin code and programming remotes . m30.pdf

It a pretty simple circuit in terms of modern auto electrics,, you either got electrical pulse at the lock when activated or you haven't . If you have then it tailgate latch side issue, if you haven't it fuse/wiring/relay/module/button related . 5 minutes with a multimeter and a basic scan tool should give enough data narrow down area to investigate further ... Latch actuator and button are quite common failures on these . This the problem with all this electrical crap on modern vehicles, mechanical principles of boot release/opening far better, lasts pretty much forever, less parts thus less environmental impact & if did get an issue it generally easier/cheaper visual inspection and adjustment/repair . Move onto something like a Tesla which rammed full of pointless low quality electronics and software and purposefully engineered barriers for diag/repair options and the drama and cost is literally insane ... Point here is buy vehicles with a lot of thought and take a lot more thought on how you spend money trying get repairs ... Don't assume newer is less maintenance and hassle as in my workshop reality is newer it is the more goes wrong and the more ballache and more cost to resolve it ...

The parts are all individually balanced (or at least should be at manufacture stage if they of any good brand/supply source) clatter at tickover a problem but probably not balancing, bad balance be much much worse at higher revs .

I assume it might be the problem of the needle backlight bleeding out when the needle at a certain position to your viewing angle and for you that is when needle at the 40 position ...

Well that picture is not a 1999 Forester sf hub lol . Poor pics but probably a SH SJ hub ! What is the actual correct vehicle details/scenario !? below is actual subaru fast parts illustrations of a SF Forester non turbo rear hub and brake drum layout .