Mr B

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Mr B last won the day on May 30

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About Mr B

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    UK Devon
  • Subaru Model
    Forester Gen-1&2

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  1. It was front arms for recall but I do not recollect the SF forester had an issue or was included in the recall, SG was in the front control arm recall and done a few of them myself . . Best proper fix for that was alloy arms off the XT or a STI .
  2. They the same as the impreza arms so easily available new or used . ebay and import car parts good places start looking . here's some used forester ones for £35 you can find them listed under impreza bit cheaper, worth having bolts as they save a few quid if yours junk . Parts for the SF easily sourced and pretty cheap .
  3. They run on e10 okay, not a lot more of an issue than e5, plenty Subarus of same manufacture spec in other countries on e10 for years .. Lot of reason murky doubt exists as creates a lot of scrap and new car sales . I'd just buy 99 octane premium as while may seem more expensive you get better mpg from it and long term less issues so cost balances out . e10 more of an issue on 2 stroke machinery and for an easy life premium well worth using . The whole environmental gain of ethanol another doubtful area if really look into it in source to manufacture and add in vehicle service/repair waste materials and actual equipment lifetime from using it .
  4. an older one, newer models are not that long term durable .
  5. You got 2 choices on these. Good effort on headgaskets or full rebuild . I've done a lot of them over the years and for road use standard cars if they good order low mileage head gasket issue dealt with quickly and no to light mods I done head gaskets only no issues if it passes my inspection criteria . And yes I warranty a head gaskets only as I know from experience it a long term repair if initial engine evaluation done . Full rebuilds are not without risks and you got be very choosy on who does the work, what machine shops and techniques/finishes they use and what parts are used . Most of your machine shops are useless, we have many local but need send parts 90 miles away to get work done to high enough standard and have more advanced machining solutions. The bearing issues arise from service neglect, neglect in dealing with head gasket symptoms and power increases . Full rebuilds became a tuner norm as more money to be made for less pre repair inspection effort and less risk plus most of their customer base more likely benefit or be willing pay for rebuilt engine . If bottom end was inspected with stethoscope, oil examined, bores scoped, general engine state and vehicle use and owners needs listened to then right choice can be made . Quite simply you can't bill every 2.5 customer a full rebuild. The engine and the owners need dictate what truly needs doing . UK market for 2.5 is small, if look at US, Canada and Australia you get a far better understanding of 2.5 repairs .
  6. metal if replace filter in tank do so with oem parts only .
  7. I wouldn't throw a working OEM pump away for aftermarket , none of the aftermarket or even bosch pumps match quality or lifespan of OEM japan . The Walbro pumps being good example of this . You could test pump with scope to see current draw and cumutator wave form which give good indication of health . OEM pumps on non turbo live an easy life ....
  8. Just charge in car and if need pull battery for short period time (such as replacement) make a diy keep alive tool out of a pp3 battery or 12v power tool pack and some elec cable and 2 croc clips . Rapid drain is known issue on newer cars, ideally want look at a solar topup charger, Battery life will be seriously reduced due to prolonged discharge state so best avoided as much as possible for convenience and your wallet and environmental waste .
  9. 80mA is quite high. average in the auto world is between 20 and 55mA . When we test these we like to do a 24 to 48hr test with a bluetooth logging meter to a laptop (you sometimes find modules waking up for periods and drawing more current) Subaru newer models got a known by owners issue on battery drain if left standing for couple weeks . Dealers and Subaru themselves seem be ignoring it, I would assume it engineered into car electric systems and not a easy resolve . Is a nasty problem as besides potentially leaving you stranded it also going reduce battery life drastically which means more manufacture and recycle pollution (batteries are one of worst for pollution in manufacture and recyle) and another hit for your wallet . Modern cars are far from green , they consume ridiculous amount of parts, servicing chemicals in a very short lifespan . What they have got really good at is parting you with a lot of money for poor engineering poor quality, poor warranty and poor service support . .
  10. ^ Welcome to the new eco era .If it inherent issue on new range it needs a recall as battery drain in a week simply not fit for purpose, most manufacturers engineers design capacity and stationary current usage to last months, 7 days is a serious issue and I hearing many owners having drained battery issues ... If you want reliability and do your bit for environment older model vehicles do far better if review it in full spectrum not just tail pipe numbers . New car from pretty much any manufacturer a waste of time and money these days unfortunately .
  11. measure the parasitic draw with vehicle locked and modules asleep . Ideally want a logging ability meter so can see instances where a module maybe waking up and pulling power . Anything over 60mA is too much, 35mA +- 10mA is more average . Even if drive it more or retains just enough charge to start your battery lifespan going be short due to discharge levels caused while inactive . It certainly a fault, no car would ever be designed have stationary parked current draw flatten a battery in 4 to 5 months let alone days . Your dealers response is ignorant at best, excuse not to get involved in a known difficult to resolve issue at worst ...
  12. If fuel pump been going bad you had lot of potential running with fuel ratio lean. I would be suspecting engine damage . Your garage wants inspect cylinders with plugs removed and do a compression test . They also want test the ease of turning engine cold to ease when warmed up and cuts out . Piston and bottom engine damage fairly common when been running long durations with major faults ...
  13. But what have they sent you . You can tell the difference between 1.5 and 1.25 pitch by eye and comparing a new supplied nut and one off car, the one with closest together threads being 1.25 Any numbers stamped on any of the nuts .
  14. standard subaru thread pitch is 1.25 (M12 x 1.25) . I assume from way you describe nuts going on 2 or 3 turns your purchased wheel nut are likely 1.5 thread pitch Be very much easier buying correct thread pitch nuts over replacing studs unless studs damaged or length is an issue . Be very careful as nuts need correct taper for wheels and also need be high quality, studs also need be high quality and correct interference fit to hub bores, Lot of nuts and studs found on eBay and similar are complete junk, off spec and potentially dangerous .
  15. eBay here an example for 1 key sigma 30 type alarm > ** Do check your keyfob matches service you buy ** If you on the sigma alarm be sure you have known working 4 digit pin code to manually control alarm via keypad . ** If you don't have a PIN you can easily reset PIN while have a working remote ** With a working remote or working PIN these alarms easy deal with at low cost, break all the keyfobs and have no working PIN and cost esculate as does hassle/stress . Also realise it easy buy a used good keyfob and put circuit board into your keyfob housing and program it to alram module (as long as have a working PIN or 1 working keyfob) should yours be none repairable .. Be proactive now for the easy fix/solutions and easy life .... too many people ignore alarm issues until it too late ...