cusco scooby wagon Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 ive just replaced my front drop links and the anti roll bar rubbers on my uk wagon 2000 non turbo, what's the torque settings for the drop links cant find anything in my CD-MANUAL that refers to my 2000 wagon, only P1'S and STI'S. also do you torque them when the wheels are on the floor like (old school) back in the day.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Not sure just had a quick look through the workshop manual but couldn't find anything other then just point the parts out will have another look later if I get chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 22 ft-lbs 264 in-lbs 29.83Nm i'd do them off the ground, not sure what difference it makes to be honest 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 I didn't get chance to look again last night ended up watching a movie with the Missus. I was knackered yesterday too for some reason :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cusco scooby wagon Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 22 ft-lbs 264 in-lbs 29.83Nm i'd do them off the ground, not sure what difference it makes to be honest thanks for that, did them this morning and i have to say much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cusco scooby wagon Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 my reason for asking was the car had developed a shaking and judder and the feel of it bouncing a couple of days after the MOT so with me thinking can't be anything serious eg ball joints ,major suspension rubbers, discs,calipers etc i decided to make a checklist of things that i had done and try and fault find via facebook scooby sites etc so i had reconditioned or bought new the following items, new discs and pads, reconditioned 4 pot calipers, new brake fluid, M.O.T'd last week. no issues in the steering ,ball joints,track rod ends etc . the problem is a slight wobble and vibration on front end when breaking from 70mph with firm foot pedal no issues if i feather the brakes to slow down, stops in straight line if i let go of steering wheel. front o/s strut has a light mist of oil on strut body under pirch rim engine looks to move a little to easy on the mountings compared to my other classic. i even swapped the wheels over from my other classic scoob same wheel but they are 7jj with 205-35-17's all matching f452 falken's almost new. the wheels that are on the wagon are 7.5jj Fronts 225/45/17 michelin pilots with 3.5mm of tread REARS 7.5jj 225/45/17 continental 2 run flats with 5mm of tread all balanced last week all with even tread wear .the struts are std uk 2000 wagon spec and they are a tad soft. when driving the front of the car feels odd but i cant put my finger on whats at fault. The suspension will be swapped over next week for a set of adjustable open purch ohlins with matching springs. thats if i can fix the vibrating and shimmying its doing. SO as of today lets re-cap on morning judder,vibration and shaking on my classic 2000 uk wagon i have now replaced the front drop links and the D bushes on the anti roll bar with totally new std items and am glad to say most of the shaking and vibration has gone the rest might be down to the weeping strut and the tyres being worn down to 3.5mm on the fronts. the braking judder has almost gone now very slight almost not noticeable. So people if you had any of the symptoms try the above it could work for you too next week its OHLINS TIME anyone had a set ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 I'm having a problem like that with mine but I know it's one of the pistons on the front N/s sticking Going to whip the wheel off again tomorrow and have a proper look but had the problem before and knew it wouldn't belong before it would come back :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cusco scooby wagon Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 i know a good caliper reconditioner................. ME ;) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cusco scooby wagon Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 I'm having a problem like that with mine but I know it's one of the pistons on the front N/s sticking Going to whip the wheel off again tomorrow and have a proper look but had the problem before and knew it wouldn't belong before it would come back :( 4 pot brembos are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 No just normal 4 pot WRX. It's the only thing I never upgraded on the car was the breaks :( wish I had now but starting to look at doing them now with hoses and so on. Just a bummer it's all come at the same time be due cambelt very soon and clutch :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cusco scooby wagon Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 i can do the 4 pots if they need reconditioning, just doing some now and i can get the HEL brake hose to match these are the ones i have on the wagon, before and fitted to car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 Going to rip the alloys off tomorrow and see what's what I may need them doing so might have to get a price. :) but might have to have ago myself. :D 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bouncer Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 I just tighten the fkrs up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 Makes me wanna pull mine off and paint them now lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cusco scooby wagon Posted October 1, 2013 Author Share Posted October 1, 2013 i did the just tighten them up and it felt like it was on tip toes, so i did them again on ramps at 40nm with the weight on the wheels and its better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 the sti is rated at 44Nm so i think your kind of in the middle of the 2 :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cusco scooby wagon Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 my reason for asking was the car had developed a shaking and judder and the feel of it bouncing a couple of days after the MOT so with me thinking can't be anything serious eg ball joints ,major suspension rubbers, discs,calipers etc i decided to make a checklist of things that i had done and try and fault find via Facebook scooby sites etc so i had reconditioned or bought new the following items, new discs and pads, reconditioned 4 pot calipers, new brake fluid, M.O.T'd last week. no issues in the steering ,ball joints,track rod ends etc . the problem is a slight wobble and vibration on front end when breaking from 70mph with firm foot pedal no issues if i feather the brakes to slow down, stops in straight line if i let go of steering wheel. front o/s strut has a light mist of oil on strut body under pirch rim engine looks to move a little to easy on the mountings compared to my other classic. i even swapped the wheels over from my other classic scoob same wheel but they are 7jj with 205-35-17's all matching f452 falken's almost new. the wheels that are on the wagon are 7.5jj Fronts 225/45/17 Michelin pilots with 3.5mm of tread REARS 7.5jj 225/45/17 continental 2 run flats with 5mm of tread all balanced last week all with even tread wear .the struts are std UK 2000 wagon spec and they are a tad soft. when driving the front of the car feels odd but i cant put my finger on whats at fault. The suspension will be swapped over next week for a set of adjustable open perch ohlins with matching springs. that's if i can fix the vibrating and shimmying its doing. SO as of today lets re-cap on morning judder,vibration and shaking on my classic 2000 UK wagon i have now replaced the front drop links and the D bushes on the anti roll bar with totally new std items and am glad to say most of the shaking and vibration has gone the rest might be down to the weeping strut and the tyres being worn down to 3.5 mm on the fronts. the braking judder has almost gone now very slight almost not noticeable. So people if you had any of the symptoms try the above it could work for you too next week its OHLINS TIME anyone had a set ? up date...... all the shaking has virtually gone , i have a ;) morning judder for about 3 mins till it gets warm then its gone. the culprit we think was the rear control bush that bolts to the body, the garage guy said who's ramp i was under at the time. the control bush isn't a MOT failure but it has some play (a lot) so i replaced them with (WHITELINE ) so now its fit ohlins , refurbish wheels and fit new tyres.. oh when will it end well everyone, am back with the next installment.......... as you will have read the long list of things ive replaced/up graded etc we all got Christmas over with and the, to your self car presents opened and fitted. ive got new tyres fitted to same wheels that ive always had 7.5 x 17. ( new falken 215/35/17's) fitted and balanced. fitted new pillow-ball top mounts (merry Christmas to me ) and i fitted the OHLINS adjustable's and now knowing they will for sure be out of alignment i hunted down (4 wheel aliment ) local to me. THE GARAGE DRURY LANE,OLDHAM. was the destination yesterday and 90 mins later i had a car with all 4 wheels doing in the same direction...... it cost £40 to put it on the machine and if its just a tweak it needs that's all you pay but in my case it was a little more involved. 1 as you can see in the 1st attachment you get a print out of before adjustment made. the RED box indicates out of alignment and GREEN means OK. 2nd shows where my wheels were pointing (not literally ) 3rd (attachment start and finished result. i can now say ive found a garage that know what there talking about, are very good at customer service and will recommend in the future to anyone with steering / suspension problem. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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