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to underseal or not?


LUIGI-3
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Yep i'd say deffo especially seeing you live by the sea. i do it to every car as they tend to be old anyway so every little helps. Did the forester in novmber put a couple of pics up but all info was lost when the server change/crash happened.

Last year on the mazda i used the high pressure sprayer. Never again right pain and i didn't get the coverage i wanted. And went everywhere else

If you have the time i'd reccomend the stuff you apply with a brush and get some of the rattle cans for the areas you can't reach

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Yep i'd say deffo especially seeing you live by the sea. i do it to every car as they tend to be old anyway so every little helps. Did the forester in novmber put a couple of pics up but all info was lost when the server change/crash happened.

Last year on the mazda i used the high pressure sprayer. Never again right pain and i didn't get the coverage i wanted. And went everywhere else

If you have the time i'd reccomend the stuff you apply with a brush and get some of the rattle cans for the areas you can't reach

im planning on doing it when it gets little warmer. do i just pressure wash it and then apply that sealant? i only have axle stands and jack dont really have access to ramp. but if i find garage who can do it for decent price i might consider leaving it to pros :)

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I didn't wash mine as it was done when it was imported plus theres the issue of water ingress.

I used those individual ramps this year saves jacking up and down. But axle stands are fine, i did the whole car in under 4hours that included getting a wire brush and removing all the !Removed! and loose old stuff then applying new coat. It drives out moisture when you put it on so as long asbyou leave it to dry for 12 hours it should be all good. I'll see if i can find the pictures

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It stinks goes everywhere and doesn't come off very well. When i used the waxoil sprayer kit it went on the manifold gearbox you name it . I wouldn't have minded but it cost 50quid so i'm driving down the road with smoke pouring out of everywheer for about half hour before it all burnt off looked like a right tit !

I bought the hammerite underbody seal with waxoil in and it's about 12 quid and i've done two cars and only used a 3rd

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http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B002HMW28W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1389680862&sr=8-2π=AC_SX110_SY165

Need to stand the can in hot water to sofyen it all up. I did this then insert the sprayer pick up which got cloged up with the stuff from bottom of can. Bareing in mind i'd pressurised it by this time so even after i let it all out it still started to **** everywhere. Cleaning the nozzle is a pain in the !Removed! too. I got annoyed and cut my losses threw the whole lot in the bin.

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Ive got a classic BMW E30 just restored. I took an old boys advice and did the rust with Hydrate8-!Removed! marvelous stuff, hasnt come back in 3yrs so far and then with a non-bituminous sealent. Wax-oyl is good stuff but its more a preventative measure on good metal and shutz rather than rust. Treat the rust then start covering it. If you wax rust  you have made an untreatable surface for anything else for.  

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Happily this had been done to my car before I bought it. Got new front tyres the day I bought it and when our mate had it up on the ramp we could see it was looking good. One patch needs redone, I can suffer that. 

 

Previous owner also had the car bodywork done with Diamondbright. Looks glossy even in crappy weather and really easy to clean. I recently had a rear-end misfortune :( so I would consider getting it done again as it is expensive (£200) but in my opinion well worth it. The car almost seems self-cleaning :)

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i called garage who does undersealing and they quoted me 99quid for basic underseal and 220 for full but the bloke saidthat basic one is more than enough as it covers most of the area. but for sake of saving this dosh i can as well do it myself :)

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