MackL98

Mine has an Amazon supplied plug into the OBD socket to power the camera. Simple, neat and tidy.. 👍

Hi.. I have a 2008 Forester with the auto HID headlamp levelling system. The lamps seem to shine a bit low and occasionally, I get the orange warning lamp appear but not for long. Ive visually inspected the the front and rear suspension sensors, and they appear ok. Ive disconnected the module itself which made no difference and I've carried out the calibration procedure which also had no effect (no 3 flashes etc). My question is: As the dipped and main beam lamps are separate, which of them are levelled automatically, one of them or both.. The calibration procedure refers to the "headlamps", so is that the dipped or main beam? Does the whole headlamp unit move during the levelling action or just one specific lamp, dipped or main?

I need to figure out the wiring on the AC compressor so I can measure current flow. Its not too obvious from the plugs etc. Ive tried another relay to no avail so its not that. What actually happens is that as I watch, my wife starts the engine, and when she activates the AC, I see the clutch take power and lock up and start spinning but this only lasts about 3 secs before it disengages. Inside the car, the orange lamp is still on on the AC (temp) control. Leaving the engine running, and switching off the AC (orange lamp out) and on again has no further effect on the compressor clutch, you have to actually turn off the engine and back on again to repeat this process with its 3sec run time. Never worked on AC before so despite being ok with electrics, I'm at ground zero here..

I only changed my '87 Corvettes diff oil as I wanted it to be a modern synthetic so it never needs changed again. I'll do the same for the 700R4 autobox later. Cost me £90 for oil and 2x required GM LSD additive bottles.

Gear oil isn't burnt or diluted from diesel or contaminated with combustion residue so no need for a filter either. These types of gear oil are designed for extended and very long term use and still do the job. 100k mile gear oil change is fine as long as its at the right level, and that goes for autoboxes and LSD's too.. Just changed my Corvettes LSD oil recently, first time in 150k miles. The oil that came out looked as new and fresh as when it went in.

We have a 2008 130k mile diesel. A bit rattly when cold, but after a warmup its fine and smooth. I use Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 every 6k miles or so. The only major thing its had in its life is a clutch and latterly a dual mass flywheel (symptom, ..can't get the gears when you want them).

Happy 2008 Diesel owner..

Swapped the relays over.. No effect. I'll leave it for now..

Had this vehicle just over 18 months now and its on 130k miles. No problems to report apart from the AC which the clutch engages and disengages after about 3 seconds, but only after you turn on the engine. I swapped relays but to no avail. I'm going to leave this one for now and admit defeat as I don't want to strip out the compressor clutch just now and discover that it isn't at fault. What I have been doing, is sawing off the back half of the exhaust as it rotted through (sounds good) and saving up for a single 60mm pipe s/s straight through system off the cat. I also fitted an ITG freeflow airfilter which seems to have unleashed a few extra horses as it pulls really strong, way better than before. New oil (Mobil 1 ESP 5w30) and Bosch fliter, and I used the JDMscan app to reset the oil dilution ratio (simples) as I'm told this is important. Giving it a good clean, I noticed a mud trap with some rust under a plastic trim section on each side, fitted down the leading edge of each of the rear wheel arches. I pulled these off, cleaned off a load of trapped mud and sand, to reveal a fair bit of surface rust. This was dealt with by Bilt Hambers finest anti corrosion products and repainted and sealed. The plastic trim sections won't be refitted as they serve no purpose and are hidden by the back doors anyway, but they do trap sand and salt and cause hidden rusting. On doing this, I couldnt help noticing more rust and dirt poking out from the top of those plastic sill covers. I removed the covers (easy), and discovered about 3 litres (really) a side, of mud, salt and sand entrapped inside and down the front edge of each cover!! I cleaned it all out, and luckily found minimal rust on the sills themselves which were then cleaned, treated, painted and sealed with Bilt Hambers anti corrosion cavity product (like Waxoyl but better) pumped into the sills and the external covers replaced. Cant see anymore rust, but before the winter, I'll pump up any more cavity sections I can find. Next was the four trays to remove from the underside and obvious surface rust patches around chassis sections, cleaned up and treated and sealed, this included the rear heat shields and a fair bit of surface rust hidden by them which was treated. I won't be replacing the twin boxes so no need for the heat shields to be replaced (removing meant ripping them off with gloved hands). Last was a full set of brake pads, new tyres, and a up to date disc for the satnav and we're good for a few adventures up north (we live in Ayrshire, near the Galloway Forest Park). Its a great car to drive, smooth on the rough with no signs of slipping or getting stuck and cruises effortlessly on the road. Checking the Subaru service history of the vehicle, all its had done in its life is a clutch and dual mass flywheel. A lot of car for 3.5kGBP! Cheers..

Hi.. I can see the AC relay, but I'm not sure which other one is similar.. I'll take a closer look. Cheers..

Hi.. Can anyone advise me on this problem please? I have a 2008 diesel Forester and the AC clutch will only engage for a few seconds after starting the engine, then it disengages, but the orange lamp still lit saying the AC is on. Once it disengages, you cant re-engage it unless you stop the engine and restart it. 🤔