donnyburger

Just to bring this to a conclusion, it appears we are all now well and good. No stalling at junctions, no engine LED warning lights. Thanks to all involved, in short it was a combination of the wiring error and a filthy IACV which was removed, cleaned up with carb cleaner and cotton buds and re-installed along with another little vaccum leak I found, then a final ECU reset. :)

Understood. Guess I'll be removing the idle air control valve tomorrow and cleaning it up. Seems it could be what's causing my issue. Thanks. :)

...aaaaaaaannnnnddddd that's made no difference! Now the LED is a constant blink. Neither the long or short flashes usually described by the index. *runs of to google*

I've also just given the idle control valve about a 1/4 can of carb cleaner in where the hose connects. Hopefully that'll help.

To the original clocks, which read correctly (compared to sat-nav) It's a very common conversion. I've also been told that there's a chance that it could be the idle control valve, which is a fiddly, careful job to do?

OK, I'll give that a go and see what happens. It's mated to the VW AAP gearbox that the bus came with. The reason I'm trying to sort this is that it vetoed the bus selling yesterday and has put my next (deposited) purchase under threat.

Good afternoon all. I'm having an issue I'm currently trying to sort a problem out on my ('97 auto) EJ25-powered camper that I've driven around for the last 2 1/2 years! In short, it cuts out intermittently at junctions and has done since I bought it. I have been in touch with RJES yesterday, and we found that there was a slight issue with the wiring harness which meant the VSS and check engine light (LED) weren't getting power. This has since been corrected. After that, I disconnected the battery last night and left it until this morning to reset the ECU. I've taken it for a drive today, and...no change! I have checked the feed to the VSS which goes from 0v to 12v when ignition is turned to 1, so there's no issue there. I plugged the 2 black diagnostic ports together, turned the ignition to 1 and I got a blink code of 33 - VSS again. Since then, I have just found one of the small vacuum pipe that goes from here - to here - had a very small hole in it, which I have just sorted by shortening it slightly - Now, I've disconnected the battery again, and I'm of the understanding that I need to leave this overnight to reset it completely. Before I did this, the engine LED still showed me the '33' VSS code which really has me baffled! EDIT - I've just read that I might have to the the battery disconnected for 24 hours. This isn't an issue really, just an inconvenience. Can anyone help?! Please!

Well well well! A replacement MAF sensor arrived on Christmas eve, and with me finishing work early, I quickly went out to swap it over. When I unbolted it, I was presented with this - 1473903_10152119945030928_1495234706_n by donnyburger, on Flickr Please note the bottom-left fixing, sheared away from the rest of the housing. 1503768_10152119945035928_1495609561_n by donnyburger, on Flickr Needless to say, put the replacement one on, and all appears well! Merry Christmas! :D

Again, many thanks, you've been very helpful.

Will do. Many thanks guys, you've been great. I've just spoken to the fella I bought it from (the guy who did the conversion), he's sending me a free MAF and Lambda. :D

I've actually already tried the 2 black plugs, to no avail. The LED's have been installed in the dash regarding that, and there are no flashes unfortunately. Unsure if I've got the 2 green plugs, but will check this week. As for the installer, he's 300 miles away, so that's a no-go!

OK, I'll give that a blast this week. Where, should I need to, would be a good place to but these parts? Local motor factors or specialist (or here!)? This includes MAF. Oh, coolant temp sensor has also been mentioned, is that a potential issue?

The install itself is brilliant, mechanically. All parts are top notch, RJES parts used where needed. As for the loom, it's only the engine side of things (including ECU and immobilser) installed, nothing at the dash end I think. I can get pics tomorrow night of this (the ecu / loom / any other bits) if required. As for lambda, I actually have 2 probes, but only 1 wired in (the other just has the wires chopped). The lad that does a lot of these installs doesn't have any issues regarding this on any of his other conversions. Is it the usual 22mm spanner for the lambda? Worth taking out, brushing off carefully then putting back in?

I'm struggling to get anyone nearby to do this. The loom (as it's in a VW campervan) is a little bastardised, but the grey diagnostic plug is there, so possible. It won't give that much away though will it, being a '96 'early' engine? I'm in Kendal, and no idea who's nearby to check. I'll be asking on facebook to see if there's anyone with a fault code reader in the vicinity.

Many thanks. :)