Rollercoaster

For a more sensible approach see this video, his car didnt have the reversing camera or keyless boot lock switch and a whole lot less wires than mine, but worth a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=As9im2wBf_4

"I then using my drill put a screw into the old button, grabbed my pliers and yanked the old button out. I cut the 2 green wires at the base and cut the new button off its harness with some slack. I then tied the cables together and tested the button, worked!!! So I taped it all up and just snapped the new button back into the lift gate. 15 minute job and I have a working rear hatch again." https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2010-rear-hatch-latch-and-lock-problem-updated.434681/

For now, as we are literally on the road, in bad weather, over the seasonal holidays, with a car full of kids and stuff, I reassembled the parts leaving two green wires dangling where the switch used to be. Tested and it all works as it should, my main concern was the possibility of it being openable when locked. This proved hard or rather confusing to test, as its keyless, so it still opened by shorting out the two green wires, if the key was within range, and the range was bigger than I expected.. There are four tiny screws that secure the plastic number plate light/catch/reversing camera/rear lock assembly to the larger rear trim panel. They were almost impossible to undo, and I hope to replace them with screws that work better, larger might work, or a torx or allen key driver head on them. Without being able to undo them the access and replacement of the microswitch might have failed at the last hurdle, having said that, I also read a much much quicker and easier way of doing everything that I have detailed, and I shall quote it.

That part number 0415J wasnt a lot of help in my search. Impreza part # 63270FG001 looks to be an easy switch replacement by splicing it into the existing harness without having to get the complete Forester harness part # 84931SC060. Just cut the 2 green wires, cheaper too. The Impreza switch is the one without the license plate lamp sockets. Even the 2014-18 Forester switch part # 63270SG000 looks like the Impreza one Using that part number I am able to order online from various sources, I chose a cheap one that allowed 30 day returns if it proved to not fit when it arrived.

So I got all the way into the complicated removal of the microswitch, which was very similar to that last video, having to remove the plastic trim on the outside under the rear window. There are seven nuts on the inside behind the interior panel to remove that plastic trim, three of them require removing the wiper motor. Anyhow the wiring harness from its connector plug seems to include one rear number plate light of the two, thats two pink wires, and the rear unlocking button, thats two yellow wires. The part number on the microswitch is 0415J which may help in finding one, but I am unlikely to want to replace everything on that loom bit, so may just cut the microswitch off and splice another in. Its a lot of faff all things considered, I can see that the whole assembly is great for production of the car, but absolutely no thought for maintenance or replacement of what seems to be a common failure.

Same here, prefer a simple alternative with some kind of connectivity. Mine is a 2010 Forester XS with the satnav and reversing camera, I really dislike the screen comes on all the time and doesnt connect to anything. I use my iphone for satnav and music or whatever, its so frustrating to not even have an aux input.

That last video is longer because the loom includes the number plate lights and its a lot harder to get to replace it. But the very beginning does show clearly the way to open up the hatch from the inside.

OK I have found, hopefully, a tip on opening the hatch from inside. It is through the square hole, and yes I was doing it very wrong, I will try this way to see if it works on mine. The car in this video appears more similar to my car, and sadly more complex to replace the switch loom. But probably just as easy to short the wires creating temporary access!

Heres a good youtube video, short and to the point, on changing the microswitch. Its cheap enough and available next day delivery from eBay. If I can get it out by prising it from the outside maybe I can short the wires and the hatch will open. Surely not.. cant be that easy to break into the car. Ah well maybe only if its unlocked it might work.

Found this useful tip: https://www.geojohn.org/DIYourself/SubaruRearGate.html I still cant open my back door to get started on any repairs though. Found a small plastic square inside on the panel, removed it, messed about with a moving bit inside the door behind the panel, no joy yet, unhappy not knowing and maybe damaging.

"Just Answer" has this: There is no fuse for that trunk latch. Its a ground based circuit, so when you hit the switch, it closes and sends a ground signal back to the body computer. When the body computer sees this ground signal it sends power to the motor for the trunk latch so it can release. In this case your first step would be to use an electrical tool to test to see if the black wire at the connector for the trunk latch has a good ground. If the ground is fine you can try to bypass the wiring at the connector to see if the latch and computer are computer, Just take a bit of wire or a paper clip and jump the yellow blue to the black wire. When the computer sees that then it should send power to the latch on the green/orange wire which you can test for or just see if you hear the latch click. If it does then that confirm that the issue is the latch itself.

Worth adding, its a "keyless" car! Also that when I press the electric trigger button by the number plate lights, there is no sound, there used to be. No sound of it unlocking either from the remote, when there used to be.

Well I havent researched this, yet, and I will, but its a bit urgent right now so I'm turning to the crew here, hopefully, for quick answers. Its an electronic release and its not either releasing or unlocking, or both, I dont know. Could be a fuse I suppose or something simple, its fully loaded, and with kids on the way to the Grandparents.. I have tried obvious solutions, I hope I dont have to unload it all in the rain now and take the panel off the inside or something.. there doesnt seem to be an obvious mechanical bypass to the electric release.

Ha, Funny day. Took the car out and was looking constantly at the mechanism, and puzzling, stopped at nearest Garage to use their forecourt, (I live on a muddy track, and it was nearly my first opportunity at a sensible place to stop) after a while I despairingly asked the mechanic if anyone could take a brief look, surprisingly he did look. Could not see anything obviously wrong, and as it doesnt operate faultily until its driven, I said take it for a drive! Anyhow he returned just as puzzled as me. Said it was definitely a problem. Looked again and under the bonnet. Checked fluid level. Asked me to bring it back if I wanted, I took his number thoughtfully in case the Breakdown wanted somewhere to bring it to.. Set off driving, its been perfect since!

Today the clutch pedal has chosen to not return all the way back after use. It stays a little bit down, seemingly without affecting the actual clutch plate. It does return fully after a very little while, can feel it under foot if resting foot on it. Sometimes coincides with pressing brake pedal, wonder if its mechanical linkage problem. Or is this a symptom of worse to come, advice welcome..