miles2102

I understand completely regarding not trusting the chips etc that's the reason I was asking you knowledgeable chaps. But this is the best it's ever ran and I don't mean boost wise but general running of the car seems a lot better than with my standard ecu, I don't get crap idle or hunting or any missing or anything it just pops on high end boost, if I can limit the boost or up/lower the fuel I'm then going to get it on the dyno soon as my friends taking his as well. Regarding getting it mapped I've been down that route and cost me a lot then my apexi lost its map so I can't justify spending the hundreds it will cost to sort that out for it to maybe lose it again

Ive got an apexi but need the commander and also unsure if it even works as it's got rough idle and drives like a bag of nails. I've had endless issues with mine regarding my ecu,so bought the apexi which then lost its map so not happy about spending hundreds doing the same process that's already been done. If this chip can get me to a happy medium then il be over the moon! Just needs a little tickle regarding fuel as in my other post

It's basically got a mc cains superchip, hks induction kit, decat from turbo and bailey bov. According to my other post and people's replies it's a good chip but I can't see why it would overfuel, if it is over fuelling?

Haha really! I only wanted to fit it to regulate the fuel better or is it really not worth it?

Do I blank it off?

Hi, I have an fse boost valve that I intend to fit to my 94 wrx as I'm suffering from what I think is over fuelling on max boost, eg. Motorway 5th gear it pop pop pops until I let off and from what I can see is that I can adjust fuelling on the fse but I know i remove valve on end of fuel rail and fit the adaptor,I'm fine with that bit, it's the vacuum line I take from the inlet which is fine. But what do I do with the pipe that I removed to fit the boost valve, it's a small pipe that connects on top of manifold to underneath manifold (it's like a link pipe). Cheers

Would you or anyone happen to know if I could fit this chip too my v5 ecu as I'm hoping it would then get rid of the cel light I'm getting with this ecu?

Yep will do bud

U went up to autotecnica in the end, very helpful guys to be fair and very reasonable. Think I'm going to Bob down to prosport soon though, my friends taking his r33 gtr so was going to see how the scoob was on the dyno

Yep definitely agree

Yeah could be linked I suppose,the speedo cable is broken at gearbox end just haven't got round to if yet but definitely will have to be next on the list then see where I can go from there. Thanks for your help anyway I feel a bit safer in the knowledge that it's safe to use and not just some £5 sh*the off eBay.

Cheers stants, so all in all it seems to be a good chip then, the only problem is that it's throwing up speed sensor cel light, I've heard that's because the 7d ecu is for UK and mines jdm wrx. Also it pops on motorway on full boost, would you say that's over fuelling??

Are they any good and is it worth me bunging in my wrx?

Pic of chip

Bought an ecu with this chip inside, just wondering if anyone has come across one of these before?? From a 7d ecu

It's been a while but I thought I would update the little info I have. I took the wrx to be looked at by the kind gents at autotecnica down my way who kindly pointed out numerous oil and water leaks(all bearing no relevance to the actual running of the car though). Since then I've changed the engine for a good running engine which went like a train. Slapped it in mine and hey presto........still runs like cr@p! I can only presume that the wiring to ecu etc is damaged or something. The issues I'm having is still the icv but also when the idle drops I hear a click inside the car which then makes the boost solenoid click which raises revs?? I'm sure I have a devil car it's driving me mad! I tried different ecu, maf, icv, all new coils and plugs, air filter is brand new. Any suggestions before I drive it off a cliff. I also get get code 45 now too which I cleared but still crops back up when idling or driving below 2k revs.

I've not seen a restrictor pill in the vacuum lines but definitely something to consider soon, the steps you've mentioned to reduce overboost seem like the best option for me to be honest,I'd rather spend my money on making sure the car performs healthily before I throw cash at a remap etc. Like you mentioned I think it's worthwhile picking up the 3 bar map too. I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and pop it in for someone to diagnose otherwise the neighbours are going to hear some foul language soon lol. There's definitely still an issue somewhere. One thing I did notice today is on the rear of the speedo cluster there is a like a laminated circuit board for all the dash lights etc, well one of the copper strips is burnt out, I tried to follow it but could really tell where it was for bit I do need to take it back out anyway to sort speedo drive out so il try and look again then. With jan being such a tight month do you think it is safe to run the car at 0.5bar with the link being left connected from actuator to turbo or is that solely for trial purposes?

Just a quick update whilst I have a quick brew, I've had plugs out and made sure they're gapped at 0.7 although found ANOTHER faulty coil pack (definitely time for newage coils I think!) Bit still seems to work but obviously not helping matters just a bit chipped off under the rubber cover. I've fitted the vacuum pipe from actuator to turbo and blanked off accordingly as mentioned (seems fine under boost and generally runs a hell of a lot better ie no holding back,spluttering or nearly throwing me through the screen lol so I'm presuming that would suggest overboost or my v5 ecu only allowing 0.95bar before fuel cut?? Still throwing cel light up but goes once revs dip below 800 (only seems to come on when driving slow and not on boost). checked earths they seem ok and as far as the speedo goes connections look fine on gearbox but the speedo drive cable is quite loose on the box side.

I know is a bit of a shame I could with a knowledgeable chap just like yourself down this way. Il definitely keep you posted as I do hate an unfinished topic.

Thanks for the detailed reply, really useful info for me to look at today, I'm just about to put my scruffy clobber on and get cracking on it in a min. The coil packs are like new and came from a reputable breaker from up my way (manchester), they look brand new with very very minor markings where the end of spark meets coil pack. I was looking at newage coils next month just can't afford at the moment. Not sure on connections at the gearbox I will have a look today. I need to fit a bung asap because as much as I love the rumble it's definitely annoying the neighbours with me being up and out by 6am every morning lol. Yep I removed the diaphragm from behind the icv,it was a bit coked up but gave a thorough clean and replaced gasket with new one. You've gave me great info and lots to look at today, il let you know how I get on

Cheers for the help il let you know how I get on after today, I find it really frustrating when you scoure through forums for an answer then they don't leave the end results,I really do hope this is a topic I can end positively lol

I think il get it swapped out anyway just to rule it out, they can be picked up cheap enough I suppose. Why does it always p#ss it down when you need to work on the car lol

I had a quick nosey around last night and found the same thing. The one thing I did notice and am not sure if it matters is the v5 ecu seems to be used in the automatics and mines a manual? It's either had a manual box fitted and used to be an automatic or had the ecu changed

V5 is the sticker that's on the ecu

Yep I disconnected battery for about an hour and half. Do you think it's worth replacing ecu with a z4 then to see if that helps? What's a v5 ecu from? I'm going to check all grounds etc tomorrow and make sure there all clean contacts.