dryvebye

Here is the list and pictures of the parts included. New: 1 engine to downpipe gasket 1 pack of front brake pad fitting kit 1 front wheel bearing 1 front wheel hub a pair of front brake discs a pair of rear brake discs 5l Mannol 5w30, SN/CH-4, C3 Fully Synthetic engine oil 2 pairs of snow chains (I bought them for my european trip, but didn't have to use them. It won't fit the my other cars, so its included. Practised how to put them on once.) Used: 1 front driveshaft 1 spare steel rim 1 crankshaft pulley with bolt 1 ignition coil 3 spare ignition leads tyre 205/55/15 from the original set I had on tyre 195/65/15 from the left rear (the fourth had a piece slashed out of it by a nice piece of metal on the road near a farm...)

Ahhhh... The only thing I forgot to mention. £400 o.v.n.o please. I'll include it in the original post as well.

I have a somewhat tired example to go here, but someone may have the time to change some parts. The engine is an EJ20, Auto Gearbox code TZ1A4ZRAAA-WG, bought it with 117000 miles, currently 158000 on the clock and 15" old impreza style alloys. It was unloved when I bought it. The gearbox didn't move the car, so took the valve body apart, cleaned the muck out of it, put it back together, changed filter, filled with Dexron III. It still has a fault described below, but moves the car as it should. Changed gearbox/both diff/engine oil and filters, spark plugs regularly myself. Replaced full cambelt set with water pump at 118000. According to service manual they last 105000 miles. Front wheel bearings are new, discs and pads replaced as needed in pairs (front/rear). Air conditioning works. Noticed some bubbling on the sills, so took care of that, but it has some surface rust again (see pics). Good thread all around, but somewhat oddly fitted tyres(two identical, directional M+S on the drivers side, another M+S and a summer tyre on the passenger side), due to a nightmare tyre fitting service a few months ago... (waited 3 hours, didn't get what I wanted, they wanted to convince me its my fault...left them a nice review). Underside is solid. I went to europe in the winter of 2017 and done about 4700 miles in it. (BMWs and the rest couldn't keep up on the snow covered motorway ;). Joy of AWD) There is no MOT on it since 21 Jan 2020. Had to buy an MPV to move the family around. Pictures will follow, here are the problems: Since I bought it in 2016, the engine management light comes and goes. It loses power when its on. Couldn't read it with an ODBII scanner, so still not sure about the problem, but suspect the gearbox. It also starts with an auxiliary belt screech, which lasts some time after the engine gets to temperature, but goes eventually. I suspect a crankshaft pulley problem, and bought a used replacement. I wonder if it will work. Gearbox has a delay when I put it in drive, so I have to raise the revs a bit. It is fine after that. Also, It kicks when changes back from 4th to 3rd (once again, all these, since I bought it). The closest I got to finding the problem was a topic about faulty valves in the valve body. Front driveshafts will need changing, I have one on stock, it will go with the car. Exhaust gas leak between cat converter and middle box (needs a exhaust ring seal, don't have that). Sometimes there is brake judder from above 50mph (downhill only... interesting) It has some small dents, front bumper has a small crack and many marks. Rear bumper has a deep scratch on the left. Boot lid is somehow skew and lets water in at speed, so boot liners are gone. Lacquer has peeled off of most of the bonnet. Rims are also loosing paintwork, in need of refurbishing. Drivers seat height adjustment doesn't work, drivers side air went is broken. It has some rust on the inside of the rear wheel arches now. There is surface rust on the front and rear suspension components. Viewing is welcome and take a suitable code reader with you if you can as well. I am in Waltham Chase, Hampshire. Text me on 07712 245645 or post here. Thank you, Dennis Lamont

From the noise point of view it has nothing to do with your A/C system. The A/C is close circuit gas. It's components located further away from the heater motor. A/C service only silence the A/C pump under the bonnet. It is more likely that it collected some leaves or other rubbish from outside which makes the noise. Take the glovebox out, undo the motor and if you can't see anything have a look at the motor's housing and find the rubbish in there. If all clear, try moving the fan around by hand. It should be easy. If you have to put effort in it just replace it. It doesn't worth the hassle trying to free it up by WD40 or so. It will sieze again soon.

Well done! And all parts are new! Spend the money left well and you'll have a hell-of-a ride!

Hi Scrappy Doo! The specialist said to get rid of it, because they buy and install approved parts only. In your case that would easily cost over £1000. But! Phone some scrapyard or if there is one close, just pop in and try to find a radiator, a fuel filler neck, rear struts and an oxygen sensor too (for this you can take your one as a sample, just to make sure you don't have to go back)! Even scrappies have to give you 30-90 days warranty for some bits by law (I know I work for one...) and you're going to install them, so there is no labour cost. You already saved loads! Some bits come without warranty (e.g panels and plastics) but you don't need those. Everything else has to be new, especially brake bits. You can go crazy with these, but unless you want an overall upgrade I would say stick to the standard ones and buy a reasonable kit for the rear until next time. I agree with stants on the rocker gaskets and the droplinks, but you can do anything as long as you have patience and you're mechanical minded. The most challenging will be the crank seal. You didn't state which end you need, so here is some guide: Timing end: You will have to have some idea about the state of the timing belt's condition. The reason is that you will have to take it off, since it is in the way if you need a crank seal replaced. In my personal opinion, the timing belt you can't prove the age of - no matter how new it looks - MUST be replaced! Put it back ONLY, if you know it didn't run more than 5-10k miles and you put an arrow on it marking the direction it was running! If there is no proof of age, feathered, running slightly off the pulleys, cut, got strange marks on OR you've forgot to put the arrow on it before taking off BIN IT and buy another one! You also need a whole cambelt kit if there is no info about the belt. It will be pricey, but you don't want to lose an engine after all the spendings/labour, just because one of the guide pulleys/tensioner OR the water pump gave up. Most kits don't include the water pump, so go for it and buy one of that too! So, in this case you're likely to spend on the crank seal, the cambelt kit, the water pump, the silicone gasket (in case the water pump doesn't have it's own gasket), and engine coolant. Worth the money if you like you Scooby if you ask me. Gearbox end: :D tricky with both manual or automatic if you don't have experience, but you can get to the seal without risking vital engine components going wrong. Just take the propshaft off and don't forget one thing. Apart from the bellhousing bolts, Scoobies have a long thick metal pin stuck through the bellhousing, protected by a rubber plug on the right as you're leaning over the engine bay. It holds the engine and the gearbox together. It has an M5 thread cut in the middle, so an about 100mm long bolt with the same thread and a pair of pliers will do the trick. Once the pin is halfway out, drive the bolt out so you have enough room left. Getting late, so I'll drop it here. Any other help needed just ask. I'm busy this week, but will find time. Cheerio

First of all, thanks for the welcoming posts. WideSam an Tlag, I'll find time for taking pictures. I'll also try my best on them, since my hobby is photography. I build photographic knowledge, just like I put cars back into shape. I already do Gambit, thx! tom_gr7 I think we'll never be able to outnumber impreza owners, but hey! We win on practicality :D

Hello, I recently bought a W reg Legacy saloon with cloth interior (don't like to stick to leather) an auto gearbox (with varying hesitation in D) and 111000 on the clock. I'm already saving for the ATF and filter, then see if I need a gearbox change. It needs headlight adjustment, another bonnet (or me doing DIY on the paint, since lacquer is flacking off), an exhaust weld, a carpet and a deep clean. I've flushed the engine oil TWICE already :D! Was that a good call? Filled with 5w-30 fully synth Castrol for £23. Why the Legacy? Well, this is what I wanted. I wouldn't go for an Impreza, because I don't find it comfortable thanks to my height (for a 6'4" feels like the A post is way too close and can't stretch out) and also have a family to fit in. I may swap for the outback in the future, but I usually work my way through the cars bad bits first, then see if I fancy something else. Good to be amongst you! Denes