Calq98

pretty sure the actuator arm is in as far as possible. I temporarily tied it with cable ties to try keep the flap shut. And still no boost. I have a stock brand new actuator coming but think it's even that now. Unless like u say the flap isn't shutting completely but certain it is..what next ? Wishful thinking but if both solenoids are buggered or not working on the car.. With the flap tied shut should it still create boost?

can I cable tie the actuator arm with it connected to wastegate? And quick try it.

Gonna sound thick here. Surely if the actuator is buggered the wastegate would stay shut and it should build boost? The pic does make sense tho.. Or would a buggered actuator do something else ?

I know this sounds silly. But should the rod from the actuator to Wastegate arm push outwards ? Because I can push the rod away from actuator. If I disconnect the rod and tie the wastegate like u said. Which way would be closed.. ? I've put the pic so it makes sense. Thanks for ur help again guys.

Yeah I'm going to get ecu codes tonight and contact alcatek.. I'm 100% sure the car doesn't have different maps,a map with low boost because the guy who built the engine 2 years back, I've spoken to him he never mentioned it had something like that and when my mate who I bought it off picked it up the guy who built in( a friend of ours) went with him and then it had no boost.. So basically my mate bought it very cheap and never did anything with it.. Sat in his garage for a year or so and now I've bought it for project..and for the vac lines, the guy who bought it said he put the boost controller In with the vac lines how they are. And it used to be fine, boosted how it should.. I've found a site that does stock actuators so I'm going to order one of those.. And just check about the ecu and see if the self check does work with that ecu. I've had someone mention that they think the wastegate could be stuck open?

No idea mate. This is why I need to phone alcatek if I can find out All the details. This Bladdy car is driving me insane. Just aswell I bought this as a project track car.. and for peanuts.

The pic is info on that ecu from their site. Think I'm going to phone them With the ecu number and ask about it so I'm aware about it. I'm guessing it's a vf23 as it ihi written on it. And from what I've read the v3 runs the vf23? Or am I wrong ?

Yeah non of that happens. Just hear the solenoid click twice and that's about it.. So I'm guessing the green plug self check doesn't work with this ecu.. These cars are more complicated than I thought. Also trying to find a standard actuator is a problem as I can't find one

no idea.. I'm still not 100 percent those boost solenoids are working correctly.. Why does one click once and the other clicks twice. The amount of Subaru sites I've read and they say the solenoid should continue clicking on diagnostic mode..is there anything else that should work when green plugs connected and turn ignition on? So I can rule out whether the map supports the test mode?

I've found out why the car was idling crap.. Fluctuating up and down. I cleaned the idle control Valve and seems to idle fine now..however I've tried another boost solenoid which works.. And that clicks twice when turning ignition on and green plugs connected.. But does not continue clicking. The restrictor pill is in the correct place. I've ran new vac hoses standard setup,bypassed the solenoid.. And still no boost. Actuator is goosed ?

I've found out why the car was idling crap.. Fluctuating up and down. I cleaned the idle control Valve and seems to idle fine now..however I've tried another boost solenoid which works.. And that clicks twice when turning ignition on and green plugs connected.. But does not continue clicking. The restrictor pill is in the correct place. I've ran new vac hoses standard setup,bypassed the solenoid.. And still no boost. Actuator is goosed ?

And what "bar" pressure actuator would I need ? If that makes sense.

Was searching last night found kinuwaga actuators.. Japenese make. Which fit vf22 23 and the 28 turbo. Or would the tdo5 actuator be the same ?

Well I've managed to source a perfect working order maf the same which I'm going to try Wednesday.. See if it makes any difference. The solenoid literally clicks once when first turning ignition on.. That's it.its not a loud click I just put my fingers on it and felt it click. Almost like a relay clicking. I can move the actuator the full way till it's not supposed to go any further. And I can move it fairly easy. There is pressure there but it does move easy. Without force.

It has a alcatek ecu.. And from what I have read they can delete the maf with This map setup. I know this probably wouldn't cause lumpy idle but what about the actuator? Am I supposed to be able to Move the arm fairly easy? I guess It would be an idea to try another solenoid first