DavidCr

Thanks for the reply, do you happen to know where the wiring runs from the ABS connector plug or how one can access it?

I have a 2011, Forester 2.4L auto. My scanner showed an open circuit for the LH rear ABS circuit. Replacing the sensor did not clear the fault. After doing some testing I have found that there is no voltage at the connector point where the ABS sensor plugs in and there is no continuity between the abs module and the sensor plug. Clearly there is a break in the wire between the plug point and the ABS module. Has anyone repaired such a fault and if so, could you give me some pointers on how to do it. Would appreciate any assistance I can get Thanks

Thanks Mr. B. Will test the voltage to sensor connector first, if that's ok then I know the issue is downstream. If it's downstream I will 'swop' right and left using cables and see if the fault switches sides. I did try repairing the cables on the old sensor but the break was really close to the plug so quite difficult. The resistance in the new and repaired old parts was almost the same and plugging in the old part didn't clear the code, although I am not certain how good the connection was. Will have a go tomorrow and let you know how I get on Thanks

I bought a Blue Print part. The agents don't have any in stock and dont expect any until after Christmas. At over £200 for one sensor I thought I would look aftermarket. What brand do you recommend? I have a Icarsoft pro scanner, which seems to do most things. My next step is to check the feed wire where the wheel speed sensor connects and see if there is voltage there. If there is, I will try a new sensor, different brand if I can get one. Thanks for the reply

I have a 2011 Forester, 2.4 Auto. The ABS and traction control lights came on, scan showed right rear sensor was the problem. Replaced the sensor, it was clear where the cable was damaged, lights went off, problem solved. A week later sales lights came back on, this time rear left sensor was shown as the problem by the scan. Replaced the sensor, very clear where the cable had been damaged (in two places), but this time dashboard lights stayed on. Tested resistance on old sensor, about 815 ohms. Removed new sensor and tested resistance, resistance 835 ohms. Given the damage to the wheel speed sensor cable, I am surprised that the fault wasn't resolved. I have checked the abs fuse, no problem. Can someone tell me where to from here? Thank you

I forgot to mention in my first post that you can use the car almost endlessly in town driving without the fault coming up. Even at faster speeds, it takes about an hour of highway driving before the fault registers. Why would an O2 sensor only play up under those circumstances? My experience with them (which is limited) was more low rev problems than high (bad idle etc). I will monitor the fuel trims under live load and see if that shows anything. Anyone else have suggestions?

I have been getting the engine warning lights with a P0171 fault code (lean fuel) on an ongoing basis. The fault only seems to occur at relatively high speed and revs (last fault at 50mph and 1955 rpm). After a check and given when the fault is registered I have ruled out a vacuum or exhaust leak. There is no link to when petrol is put in (before anyone says its the filler cap) and the engine does not run erratically at idle. I have already replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor so that is not the problem. The absolute manifold pressure at the time of the last fault was 19.8 inHg, which to my reading is what the manual says it should be. I am thinking its a fuel supply issue, either filter blocked or pump not working properly. The filter, which sits on the pump, is a 60 000 mile replacement item according to the workshop manual but the local agents tell me its not on their service schedule at all. Lifetime filter was the term used, the last one ordered was nearly a year ago. Any advice as to what could be the fault and if I am on the right track. Thanks in advance

Thanks Mr B, I will order them. I agree, the old way worked and didn't need a special tool.

I am going to replace the petrol filter (in tank type) on our 2011 Forester (2.5l non turbo). I have seen a utube video where a special tool was used to disconnect the fuel lines from the pump assembly. I have looked on line but can't find anyone in the UK who has them (part 42099AE000). Does anyone know if this tool must be used or are there other ways of disconnecting the fuel line or perhaps other tools? Thanks in advance

I have just serviced our 2011 Forester fitted with a 2.5 litre FB20 motor. Two issues arose and I would like to see if other have had the same experience. Firstly, I changed the spark plugs as per the service schedule. They recommend changing the plugs at 96 000km and the car has done 120 000km. These plugs are pricy and can only be bought from the agents in the UK (GBP 25 per plug). To be honest, had it not been for the difficulty of getting them out, I would have simply cleaned the old ones and put them back, there was very little, if any, sign of wear. In my view these plugs can go a lot longer than 120 000 km. Has anyone had the same experience? Secondly, the oil filter is mounted on top of the engine making it easy to access but it is orientated 'upside down' (compared to how they are normally mounted). The difficulty I had that was as soon as the seal is broken the contents of the filter pours out and unless you are ready for that, it makes quite a mess. Has anyone found a solution to this? Comments from others who have services the same motor would be appreciated.

Can anyone recommend somewhere I can get the brake rotors skimmed in the Bury St Edmunds area. Thank you

Thanks for the input. No one seems to have a locking pin for the FB25 motor, including Sealey. Has anyone done this job and if so what do you use?

We have a Forester that we brought to the UK from South Africa, fitted with a 2011 2.4 litre FB25 motor. I need to replace the timing chain tensioners (it sounds like they are not working, the chain making some noise). I have seen a few Utube videos and the job looks relatively straight forward although the videos have not been for my make and model. The mechanic from the local repair shop turned the job down because he believed that one requires a set of locking pins made particularly for the car, which he maintains would be expensive to purchase. The videos I have seen make no mention of these locking pins. Has anyone done this job and if so: 1. Are the locking pins required? 2. Is there anything I should be wary of / be aware of to do this job I would appreciate any help that I can get