Steven252

Just install a wideband gauge, save you on dyno time.

Same tank on the v7-9. The garages track car had the same issue so i built one for that too. Sticky tyres and coilovers is all you need to cause the problem. As said above its because of the shape of the tank and the pump being on the right side. Means all the petrol moves to the left on hard right hand turns away from the pump. All imprezas suffer this problem and a swirl pot and external pump is the only way to cure it

Yup, i was experiencing fuel surge then cut every time i took a fast right hand corner/powered out of one, with anything less than 1/2 a tank. Dont experience any of that now Springs were fitted and ive since picked up a little bit of understeer so ive messed about with the geo settings and antiroll bars front and rear to dial it out. Cars loads better now it doesnt have excessive body roll like it did before Its still on the stock turbo yes, was running 344bhp and 328ft on normal pump 99 fuel, but ive since adjusted the map for a 20% meth mix. It goes noticeably better now Thanks for all the positive comments, i havent really used the car a lot recently. Need to get using it more

Iirc the tps should read 0.5-0.8v closed and 4.7-4.9v open. if it is the wrong way itll be trying to run open and closed loop the wrong way around. switch the TPS positive and negative the oposite way around to get the sensor to read correctly

Hed have probably known my old one, was the most known compressor on the forum due to the spec/power of it The rear deffuser and bumper teims really sort the rear end out! Built up a swirl pot for the boot out of some aluminium. Has stopped the famous subaru fuel surge these cars suffer with Its all built up with AN teflon braided hose and fittings to stop the nasty fuel smell getting into the car. I am also running the pump on a OEM subaru fuel pump controller to keep the noise of it down. Springs turned up, they are 9kg fronts and 7kgs rear with solid rear top mounts. Probably will be a little firm on the road than the current 5kgF/4kgR but there is far to much body roll on them.

Not sure if your refering to mine or the ones above. Theres nothing wrong with the trims against TPS on mine - there all spot on as a number with no fluctuations just slight richer than what i would have mapped other engines too. I downloaded the map and the WOT open loop area is set for 11:1. Did a few logs and its achieving that. So must be the same issue as above - my widebands reading lower than the stock one. Probably due to the OEM one being pre turbo and the AEM being post turbo. I think ill leave it alone as the cars running really nice and has been completely reliable out on track. No point trying to sacrifice that to save some small margins in fuel if my wideband not reading really accurate to the OEM one

Hmmm. Its a AEM failsafe wideband which i know was really acurate when i last had a car run. Might be a possibility though

As said its TDR whos mapped it, i presume its the owner mark thwaites. Seeing as TDR as a subaru impreza specialist and are running in a couple of cars in TA id assume that he knows what hes doing. The only thing that has changed since its last map is that its had an external fuel pump and swirl pot installed. I cant see that making any difference as they are both 255 pumps. Last graph i have of the car. Shame it doesnt have seperate pages with boost/AFR printed on it for me to have a gander at to confirm.

Idle and vacuum id be expecting 14.7:1, start loading up yeah 12-13s. Ive got open port for the car so i might just remove some fuel in certain areas to get it back up around 11:1. Last thing i want to do is make the car unreliable. Im not bothered by it running really rich if its reliable. I know EGTs will be a lot lower at 10:1 than 11:1 so maybe thats why its been set up like it has - keep it safe for repeated track use

Ive recently fitted an AFR wideband kit to my 2.0 EJ207 engine which has been mapped by TDRacing and ive got a couple of questions over the maps afrs. Now im new to the EJ after coming from toyotas 2zz world. The cars running 21psi hold 19psi at the red line and is relitively a stock EJ207 so a VF35 with a 3" turbo back exhaust/3 port/induction kit/fuel pump. So just basic mods with a TDR map and i have a print out for 344bhp and 328ft of torque. At WOT the car is running 10.2:1 from 3-7k. No fluctuations at all so time has been spent making sure the AFR's sit there for what ever reason. To me personally this is pritty rich as on my other engines id have been aiming for low 11s at this sort of boost/power, maybe 10.8 midrange then tail off a little bit leaner at the top end. It also seems that the whole map is pritty "rich" to what id normally run. It seems to pull 13:1s in 1-5vacuum and from atmos to getting light boost (0-8psi) its already at low 12s. 8-16psi is mid 11s. The cars done several track days and runs spot on, even in the 30degree heatwave we had it was absolutely perfect. So not knowing the EJs im just assuming this is correct for them? The cars a proper alcoholic but i expected this before i bought it. But im wondering if it is actually running far to rich and it !Removed! alot of fuel for no gain tbh, or wether thats just how they are mapped to keep them in one piece. As said the cars done several track days and been completely reliable but it does damn drink 😂 Can anyone share some light into it?

Haha the garages track car generally gets the most attention when we go out

Did a coast run with a few of my close mates, all of which have imprezas!

Wow. I really have forgotten to update this! So i replaced the clutch, even though it had only covered 7k miles the previous owner decided not to have the fly wheel skimmed so not long after i bought it it was starting to judder. Went for a RTS lightweight flywheel and exedy clutch combo. This has been fantastic, not overly light but light enough and holds the power great. The flywheel has made it feel a lot more responsive between 2-7k getting on the power The flywheel is a work of art 😍 Had the drivers indicator randomly stay on perminately when the car was unlocked/locked with the fob. Quick press of the button and itd go off. Wouldnt do it for weeks but then it started doing it everytime and i couldnt get it to turn off. Bit of a nightmare, had to strip down the whole dash to try and find what was wrong. It wasnt the indicator relay, it wasnt the hazard switch and all the wiring was perfect as youd expect on a low milage car like this. I soon diagnosed it as the OEM alarm modual indicator relay going faulty. Why it uses a seperate one i dont know. Anyway these are specialist relays as they open two curcuits. The company that makes them has been bought out a few years ago and no longer produces them. I didnt even bother ringing subaru for a price as with my recent dealings with them they are a utter UTTER rip off merchant. After doing a bit of research i found that legacys use the same alarm modual however one of the relays (of the three) is unused meaning theres effectively a BRAND NEW relay just sat in them to be used. £30 later i picked one up off ebay and removed the unused relay - and installed it onto my PCB board. Luckily ive all the tools to do this 😁 Noticed that i had an issue with the steering going stiff. Checked the belt and it was erm a little destroyed - i guess when they did the timing belt last year they didnt tighten it up enough. I also found that the steering UJ next to the turbo was slightly siezed, so that was taken off and thougherly cleaned out and greased up. That was the steering sorted, next i wanted some road legal track day tyres so opted for some Federal RS-R's Got the car full geo'd on a hunters system for full camber/caster/toe Painted the sidewalls and replaced the centre caps as they had gone tatty The car now really grips but im finding even with the BCs set to their firmest setting the suspensions still to soft. Ive ordered some stiffer BC springs to combat this. Gave the engine bay a proper clean as it had gotten grubby over the winter Things got serious with a full K-Sport 8 pot brake conversion, i just felt the brembos couldnt handle 4-5 hard stops without completely fading. By the time i bought decent discs and pads for the brembos i was over 1/2 the price off these. Opted for yellow with the extra dust seals and some DS2500 pads. Much better 👌🏻 I was starting to see the oil getting a little warm over this hot spell weve been having, so decided to fit a mocal oil cooler kit with a 80C stat. Really getting good welds with my TIG welder now Little bit of bumper trimming and it looks factory fit in the bottom bumper grill Oil stays a lot cooler now even in the 25-30c days weve been having lately Just waiting for the new BC springs to turn up and some AN fittings to turn up for a boot mounted fuel swirl pot and i think im done with this car modification wise. It doesnt need any more power and really goes around corners well now 😁

Update i changed the fluid and while being very gunky and smelling a bit burnt its not made a difference :( we bled it lock to lock for a while and the levels at max as soon as you really start loading the steering up hard it becomes very notchy as if the power steerings switching on and off and the wheel feels like locking in certain positions. When coming into a corner with some steering angle, its giving a massive vibration through the steering wheel like the front brake discs are seriouslywarped - i know for a fact that they are not. again normal driving and while stationary lock to lock its completely fine we checked the belt and its tensioned correctly, marked it and its showing no signs of slip. When we put the car back up on the ramp with it up in the air, when you turn lock to lock it gives MASSIVE vibrations and you can see the wheel bouncing back and forth with the steering wheel shaking violently. Hold it at say 3/4 a turn and itll just repeatedly do it. On the floor its not doing this but this is 100% the issue im having when pushing hard. ill check the steering UJ tonight and see if thats siezed in spots causing the the PS to bounce causing it to over pressure itself. other than that were a bit lost to where then its the pump or rack a quick google tells me that these 05 DCCD widetracks have a different rack and pump to other WRX/STIs. Is this 100% the case?

Yeah its cherry red and doesnt smell off or anything. Ordered some fuchs titan 5005 fluid as it was recomended by opie oils for the car seeing track use. Will give that a whirl over the weekend and see if its any better the next time i venture out