LakeyBakey

ever thought of a forester STI quicker to 60 than the normal STI due to 330HP only imported though. See mine which was imported by litchfileld. :) 

yeah it its a bit loud, it this was imported by litchfield so it has a race cat and Miltek exhaust so stealth kinda goes out the window, you can definitely hear me coming lol. 

Thanks guys loving it! love a bit of stealth! 

No pull!!??? seems strange as the mileage is so low maybe its still a bit tight and needs running in my Litchfield forester pulls like a train and hitting 0 - 60 in 4.6 brutal. 

Import Litchfield forester STI. 330HP 

i have had lots of cars over the years and some with over 300hp but honestly nothing feels as brutal as these things. 

Yesterday i was on my way home when a guy asked what the hell it was while in his E36 M3 he asked if i could keep up, So after jumping off the line and leaving him for dead he said at the next set of lights. 

I cant believe you just dusted me with a F***king Christmas tree in the back :P hahaha awesome machine. 

more pics t follow 

On 2/23/2014 at 0:36 PM, antlockyer said:

Tried to mop up the mess the leaking radiator has caused and tried to find a part number for a JDM Forester rad.

Had the same issue :( i replaced with a Misimoto Rad and can say it has been perfect. Ill see if i can dig out the receipt and part number. 

On 19/07/2013 at 3:52 PM, Gambit said:

Engine

Although STis have uprated engine internals they still need to be cared after in the same manner as the WRX motors. Oil changes should be carried out every 5,000 miles for Classics or 7,000 miles for newage, although more regular changes are not a bad thing, new spark plugs, brake fluid, transmission and diff oil should be changed every couple of years or 24,000 miles and the cambelt should be changed every 45,000 miles.

Listen for knocking coming from the engine as this could indicate piston slap or bottom end damage and the turbo should run quite quietly if the cat is still in place. And last but not least, smoke free. Turbos must also be allowed to cool down after hard driving - ask the seller what he does for the shutdown procedure. Watch for a fluctuating idle which could be a symptom of a blown mass air flow sensor or sticking wastegate solenoids. If a boost gauge has been fitted, check that the boost pressure is not exceeding 17–18psi.

 

Exhaust

The standard exhausts are fairly long lasting but most owners will have probably have replaced the original exhaust with a stainless steel aftermarket performance exhaust system, due to their performance and their very reasonable prices. Hayward and Scott to name just one. If the cat is removed on the Impreza you are looking at buying make sure to get the old cat from the seller, if it’s not available budget this into the price, as you will need one come MOT time.

 

Transmission

A powerful car with 4wd is always going to punish the gearbox especially so if it has been modified. It’s not uncommon for a clutch to last as little as 40,000 miles. Clutch judder is common on Classic’s when the car is cold. The Subaru gearbox is extremely tough but when the gearbox is warm do the usual checks to ensure that all gears engage easily with no crunching, listen out for any whining at all whether it be from the gearbox itself or from the diffs. Popping out of gear is almost unheard of, but accelerate hard from low revs in each of the gears to make absolutely sure.

 

Brakes

The OE brakes and pads are not amazing and most owners uprate the pads, discs, lines and fluid to uprated items. DOT 5.1 fluid is common, especially if your going to take the car on track. As with any car brake hard from speed to ensure the car pulls up straight and smooth with no judder. Rear brakes can seize if a car is left standing.

 

Bodywork

Accident damage is a real possibility on these cars, vulnerable areas include the front end, front and rear wings. Check the underbody thoroughly for rust as a lot of car will not have been under sealed. The bonnet is also vulnerable to stone chips, budget the repair of this into the purchase price.

 

Interior

The electrics are general sound although the cheap interior plastics can look tatty over time. The newage cars have better interiors however the seats become less ‘buckety’.

 

Suspension

Worn anti roll bar bushes can be diagnosed by knocking coming front the front suspension. It has been said that the best suspension available for the STi is it the original STi set up. So replacing does necessarily mean having to go down the performance suspension route although this may work out to be the cheapest option. If buying the older Classic shapes check the rear strut's more so if it's a UK car as they seem to rot/rust at the top around the bolts.

 

Feel free to add anything that might have been missed I will updated the post :)

Thanks for advice bought a sti forester litchfield this week and checked all areas to make sure it was a minter.

The only thing wrong is it does have tiny knock on the nearside back door where someone opened there car door on it in a teso carpark apprently :( might look at getting it out if anyone knows a good panel beater near Manchester let me know. 

Thanks for the welcome guys ill be sure to post some pictures next week to show the car and upgrades i have done :)

Just fitted a stage 1 Pink Box Clutch and upgraded the Head gasket to a race head due to i know they go around 80 - 100k also put a racing aluminium Mishimoto radiator in for better cooling. Pic will follow. 

Thanks :)

needed something to get the dogs in the back and have some fun when there not, nothing better in my eyes

Thanks for the welcome :) 

Hello everybody Lakin here 

newbie so thought i would say hello!

i am from Manchester i have just bought i imported JDM forester after 5 years of dreaming :) 

Drove to work and dusted a S3 after which i was asked to roll the window down and was asked "What the f*** is that" JDM litchfield forester bitchesssss haha.