norfolkRX

You might try Autodoc.co.uk - I usually get the parts from there in advance of a service as if I leave it to the garage, I don't have the car for several days - even assuming they source the correct parts. I have no connection to this company. Try putting "where can I get parts from in uk" together with your car's model details into Google AI - you should get a list of specialist JDM suppliers in the UK

Well, checked the wheel nuts all round - torques were all over the place from too tight to too loose - reset all to 120 NM as recommended by Subaru. Also found out that the TPMS sensor they fitted and is recognised by the system was a Hamaton Hybrid EU , not sure which model but maybe Hamaton EU-PRO Hybrid 3,5 HTS-A68BA which looks suitable?

Good thinking - the place I usually go to always finish with a torque wrench (hopefully set correctly) but this new place which is more convenient - the jury is out on. I did check all the tyres were fitted with the 'outside' actually outside. I don't think they changed the tyres around so the TPMS sensors are in different positions either.

I know what you're saying but I didn't keep any of the tyres - too much stuff round the house already !! Went for 4 x Bridgestone Turanza 6 and they feel OK (especially after I corrected the tyre pressures put in by the fitters - 41psi and 35psi on the front axle?) Seems to have good straightline stability. Price of tyres seems to have increased 25% in the last 6 years . . . Left the existing TPMS sensors on the front (noticed they didn't bother to change the valve stems though) as sensors were OK still. The same place fitted a non-OEM sensor on one of the back wheels and it reprogrammed fine. Should be good for a while, fingers crossed . . .

I was looking at replacing my 7-1/2 year old tyres in stages, say one axle now and the other axle in a few months time to spread the cost. Checking on AI (I know but I did) it told me this was not a good idea. The current tread depth is 5mm and the new would be 8mm so different circumferences. I'm loath to scrap tyres with plenty of tread left but thinking about the age deterioration. If I'd bothered to read the Owners Manual it apparently would have told me it's not a good idea - but who reads the OM from cover to cover - besides I'd had an Impreza before and not worried about it. Below is what AI said - anyone got any comments or experience about this? For an automatic Subaru Impreza, the recommendation to put new tyres on the rear axle still applies for safety, but being an automatic (usually equipped with a Transfer Clutch or Multi-Plate Transfer system) makes your choice of tyres even more critical than a manual. 1. The Automatic AWD Conflict Unlike some AWD cars that only engage when slipping, your Subaru is likely always sending power to both axles. Clutch Pack Damage: In an automatic Subaru, the centre differential uses a clutch pack to distribute power. If the front and rear tyres are different diameters (even by a few millimetres), the clutch must constantly "slip" to compensate for the different rotational speeds. Overheating: This constant friction generates heat, which can cook the transmission fluid and eventually lead to a failure that feels like a "binding" or "shuddering" when you turn corners. 2. The "2mm" Tolerance Rule Subaru and many specialist workshops strictly enforce a 2mm (or 2/32") tread depth tolerance between all four tyres. If your old tyres have significantly less tread than the new ones (e.g., they are at 3mm and your new ones are 8mm), you are well outside this safety zone. 3. Recommendations for Your Impreza If you are set on only buying two tyres, consider these steps to protect your transmission: Measure First: Use a tread depth gauge on your remaining tyres. If they are within 1.5mm–2mm of the new tyre's depth, you are likely safe. New Tyres on Rear: As mentioned, put the new pair on the rear axle to maintain vehicle stability and prevent oversteer in wet UK weather. Match the Specs: The new tyres must be the exact same brand and model as the ones staying on the car. Different brands can have different rolling circumferences even if the size listed on the sidewall is identical.

I'll raise you on the Alfas 😄 I've had 3 Alfasuds, 2 x 156s and a 147 . . . my manager eventually convinced me (very reluctantly on my part) of the error of my ways !! They're character building . . .😎 I think I was stranded only once when a crank sensor failed - the RAC came to the 'rescue' and jacked the car up on the floor pan! which they then had to beat flat again before I could drive it - rescue 101 ?? My main reason for going Japanese was to get away from the Bosch electrics fitted to most European cars - I found they were almost always the root of whatever the particular problem was.

Apparently if the TPMS light is showing when you get an MOT, it's a fail !! I understand that TMPS originated in the US where they worked out some large percentage of drivers were involved in accidents as a result of under inflated tyres? On a similar note, while I was waiting for my TPMS to be fixed, three clowns came into the garage wanting them to repair 2 tyres that were below the legal limit - the garage refused.

UPDATE: I think on reflection my Like No.9 is a dislike. The Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) once it goes wrong is a lot of trouble and expensive. If you can't maintain your vehicle with the right tyre pressures you shouldn't be driving. Just had to replace 2 TPMS sensors for about £160 - it would have been even more at a main dealer. The Tyres are wearing really well having done 25,000 miles with loads of tread left - they are likely to need replacing because they are too old and the side walls have had it. Ridiculous range 80+ metres, on the key fob means it is easy to leave the car unlocked if you put the keys in your pocket while still in range. Overall, it has been very little trouble or expense . . . (I used to drive Alfas ;-) )

Just had that service and TPMS warning light still showing . . . grrrr. My Ediag scanner shows they replaced a different sensor to the one that Ediag flagged up - so it seems both rear sensors were on the way out - maybe the distance to the wireless rear sensors is greater than to the front sensors so they're the ones to go first. Dropped into local STS Tyre Pros (no connection to me) and they changed the other faulty sensor with a non-OEM one and still managed to get the onboard system to accept it. So if I needed to get all 4 sensors replaced it would be £320 fully fitted rather than £500 at the Subaru dealer !!

I previously had a 2010 RX but I don't think it was a problem on that year of car. I do remember it being an immediate problem with my current Impreza (i.e. having to recharge the battery before I could start it one morning) which p1zzed me off. Battery too small ( 65Ahr as designed) for all the electronic junk on the car. The current fob has a ridiculously long range, 80 to 100 metres which I don't think was the case with the older car. I wouldn't worry about the it if you don't have a problem, but my understanding of the 2019 system is that unless in 'sleep' mode', the car and fob are actively looking for each other. I believe they communicate more often if in range of each other. I also find it very easy to leave the new car unlocked if I'm still in range and put the keys in my pocket and accidently press the raised unlock button !! I am happy to be corrected if someone has solid evidence of it being otherwise.

The TPMS sensors have batteries that only last 5 to 6 years and which aren't garage replacable so you have to buy a whole new sensor - a real rip-off. Subaru don't make these sensors, they re-badge Schrader ones and mark them up. Do your own research, but I believe the Schrader 3076 is probably the one used on used on recent Subaru - they are half the price of the 'genuine' Subaru ones. My go to garage says they 90% sure they'll be able to program the one I've bought as a test when I get it serviced at the end of the month - the nearest Subaru dealer want £500 to change all 4 !! BTW if the battery(s) are fine but on the way out, they will still trigger the TPMS warning when the weather is colder than 10C as I've found out with the recent mild weather.

Hello Shirley, I had the same issue with my Impreza ( XV is basically an Impreza with more ground clearance ). Key fob battery replacement every few months. What you need to do is put your fob into sleep mode when you lock the car. That way the car and fob will not be constantly communicating using up both the fob and main car battery. If when you lock your car you hold the lock button down and while keeping it down also press the unlock button twice - two flashes from the key fob red light will confirm the fob is now in sleep mode. To unlock do as usual. Press unlock once for the driver's door or twice for all doors. I hope this helps 🙂

Finally, I've managed to fix the mobile not connecting issue. It turns out that the upper USB port had been abused by the previous owner so it didn't hold the cable succurely resulting in the map app on the phone disconnecting all the time. Fixed it with a good quality USB A to C cable and using the unused lower USB socket (under the display unit) instead.

2019 Subaru Impreza 1.6 SE Review This was going to be the car's one year (with me) review but has turned into a 2 year one instead. It's my likes and dislikes compared to my previous 2010 Impreza 2.0 RX. I bought this car wih 2100 miles on the clock at 3 years old. Likes, not in any particular order: 1.Although only 1.6, the engine is livelier than the 2.0 L. 2.Better fuel economy - useful when you need a 2nd mortgage to fill up these days. 3.Rear camera is useful. 4.The rear vehicle or person crossing warning is very useful in car parks or backing out of restricted places. 5.I maybe wrong but the boot seems to have more space. 6.Headlights good on full beam, less so on dipped and other motorists don't like the brightness - which I can understand. 7.Seats reasonably comfortable - I am 6'1" and my other half is 5'. 8.The AVH Automatic Vehicle Hold seems to work well and is usefull in traffic though you might want to be more obviously stopped to prevent someone re-ending you. 9.Tyre pressure indication is useful. 10.Digital Speedo - you have both but even though I'm old school I prefer the digital readout. Dislikes: 1.It's auto so no engine braking when going down hills. 2.The rear suspension is too stiff and doesn't hold the road going round uneven corners. It feels like the front and back are set up differently or two different cars. 3.No SatNav as standard (approx £1200 add-on) - can't connect the mobile reliably. 4.Road following headlights OK but a bit of a gimmick and something else to go wrong. 5.Rain sensing wipers OK but the manual controls are still better for changing conditions. 6.Lack of a spare wheel - out in the country you can wait hours for rescue. 7.The b!@@$y 'fuel saving' engine cutoff. It saves a tiny amount of fuel but wears out the start motor. Also if pulling out onto a main road with traffic, you want to be sure the engine will respond. And why when you park in a car park does the engine switch off but has to re-start to turn the car off - grrr! 8.Eyesight is another gimmick and only warns you of the bl**ding obvious. If conditions get confusing for it, it just switches off !?? Thanks for your help!! The warning is flashed up just at the time when you are dealing with the obstacle and don't need to be distracted. 9.No soft bump stop on full steering lock - not very sophisticated. 10.Parts are difficult to find because so few cars have been imported - I did relise this when I bought it. 11.The auto-dipping rear view mirror not as good as a manual dip. 12.The key fob battery doesn't last long if you don't put it to sleep. Also why does the transmitter have such a long range? If not in sleep mode, it will communicate with the car from inside the opposite end on the house to where the car is parked!! 13.You can have a triple meter displayed on the small display, useful you might say, Oil and Water temp are OK but why Average Speed instead of something more useful like battery condition? If you've got this far, great perseverance - what are your experiences?

I've been trying to connect my 2025 smartphone to my 2019 Impreza. It needs both a Bluetooth and USB connection to display Googe Maps' quantity of data. Occasionally I can get it to connect to the car but it doesn't last long and fails with a message something like "Connection failed - remove cable and re-connect". The cable is brand new so I'm suspecting the USB x2 sockets on the car. I quite like Google Maps aerial view as a SatNav on the car's main screen. Has anyone else tried this or got a fix for it? Thanks

Driving a Subaru can protect you from many things but . . . . .

That's good to know and hear a real world experience - I'll have to get the manual out again and find out if there's a warning light or something if the system is not working.

Just wondered if anyone had experience of the Eyesight Pre-collision Braking actually working? I've had the Eyesight warning go off several times and the centre display put up a warning when approaching sharp corners, but I've never felt the brakes being applied as a result. I assume because the warning has gone off, that the driving situation has met all the requirements for the pre-collision braking to happen. It would be nice to know it's there and functioning without having to drive into something to prove it works . . . .🤔

and I meant to post this link:- https://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Articles/Subaru-Forester-Common-Problems-Repair-Maintenance-Guides.htm which are step-by-step How Tos that some nice person has posted - including the interior lights.

A selection of the LED replacements for the interior bulbs - the festoon bulbs were a bit of a struggle to fit as although they are the same length, the end caps are a different shape.The LEDs should reduce the current draw to between one third and one quarter of the originals. Whether you like the bright white light of the LEDs or the yellowish light of the originals is a matter of personal preference.

You are not wrong there, but as an engineer (mechanical), I would be completely lost without problems to solve 😉

My Impreza is registered Dec 2019 but the Dealer mode says: Product Information: Subaru-Gen3-Mid-EU-MY2017-REVA and I thought it was a Gen 5 MY2019?? Presumably it was on holiday for a couple of years in one of those huge car parks in the Midlands. Maybe they disconnect the battery? Mine too has the original Panasonic stop/start battery and the jury is out on it's condition. The previous owner had the car for 3 years and only did 2100 miles total - makes you wonder if they had issues too, with it being used so little. I'm fairly sure Updates is Off because I'd heard of people having problems with it.

Yes, I found some of your previous posts on this - thanks. I'm not sure how useful the setting is as it only says it's charging (14.3V) or not (12V) - but not battery health other than by implication. It's much like my voltmeter, except my old school solution doesn't need setting up each time and is visible all the time. An ammeter across the battery terminals would be useful for checking the level of parasitic currents that are usually present and if anything else is adding to them. At the moment I'm looking at replacing lights, that might get left on by accident, with LEDs. The dealer I bought the car from did actually warn me not to leave the car unlocked or the doors or hatch open without having the engine on - this was a first for me!! Do you know if setting the key fob to sleep also reduces how often the alarm system is looking for the fob and therefore reduces the drain on the car battery?

Well, I fitted the Voltmeter which I got from:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorgeri-Universal-Voltmeter-Voltage-BX100007/dp/B08CNFBPMG/ref=asc_df_B08CNFBPMG/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499298107818&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18332633606580583942&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045081&hvtargid=pla-1004357903227&psc=1 other Voltmeters are available . . . It turned out to be a neater installation than I had expected and more importantly - less work! The supplied bracket can be screwed to the centre cup divider, leaving the other cup holder still usable. The whole installation is easily removable and the only damage from standard is two small holes in the centre divider.

SFBS, and Yes, I'm another 'victim' of Subaru's poorly designed electrical system. I got a "you want to go somewhere, well not today Mate" from the car this morning. The battery was showing only 4 volts and Yes, it was partly my fault for leaving an interior light on, but come on, should a car with so much electrical equipment & stop/start be fitted with only a 65Ahr battery as standard? And given the car has so many safety systems on it that protect the driver from themselves, why use an incandescent bulb for the interior light (which might be left on by accident) when a low power LED would have been more suitable. This circuit should be timed to be switched off sometime after shutdown - I can't see any reason why the interior light would want to be left on in a locked car (other than by accident). On the binnacle on top of the dashboard it is possible to display some useful info like Water Temperature, Oil Temperature and Average Speed . . . . Average Speed!! really? how useful is that, why not a Voltmeter given the car has so much electrical/electronic stuff on it?? Anyway I'm going to fit a voltmeter in one of the redundant cup holders (I don't drink and drive) in the centre consol - it will be powered from the nearby accessory socket. I've checked that power is removed from this when the car is switched off. While I'm on the subject of electrics, why can't you default off the stop/start system? Rant over . . . . 'til the next time . . . 😉