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About norfolkRX

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  • Subaru Model
    Impreza 2.0 RX

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  1. Final update for these tyres - rears have now done 51,101 miles but although the tread is legal, they are not providing the stability they used to do. It now feels like the back end is moving around so I don't have confidence that I used to in corners or even, depending on road surface, the straights. The tread may be OK but the tyre carcase has had it after something like 5 years use. I'm not fitting the same again as they are discontinued and their replacements are too new to market to tell what they're like. So I've moved to 17" Dunlop BluResponse Sport instead which seem to get good reviews - time will tell. So far the immediate effect is a quieter and more 'on rails' ride.
  2. Am I right in thinking that having trouble selecting reverse gear is a known problem with Imprezas? (2.0l n/a 2010 model) If so, are there any fixes that can make the problem go away? Also I'm not sure whether it's likely to be the gearbox or the selector mechanism. Cheers
  3. Just thought it might be worth passing this on. Been doing a lot of night driving on rural roads recently and with the rain and traffic film on the screen and oncoming headlights it's been difficult. I've tried all sorts of methods to get the traffic film off, and even thought Rainex might help, but it made the problem worse. At the suggestion of someone at Wilco Motor Spares, I tried detergent and amazingly it took off not only the traffic film but the Rainex too. I used one Tesco (other brands are available!) non-bio detergent tablet (like for washing clothes) crushed up with a small amount of water and spread it all over the screen with a sponge. It was left for about 5 minutes and then well rinsed off with water - result, a clearer cleaner windscreen than I've had all winter and it cost next to nothing.
  4. A Christmas update on the Falken Ziex ZE-914 205/50 R17W tyres I have fitted. Although I had to change the fronts, surprisingly the rears have now done 48,750 miles and they're still not below 3 mm. They're wearing better than on any other car I've had.
  5. Seems like the 2010 Impreza and Outback use the same foglights - the lights, Koito part number 114-77828 however use different housings to fit their respective cars. For the Impreza, the housing is Koito part number 114-20912 and for the Outback it is 114-20960. This is handy because there seem to be a lot more Outback foglights for sale than Impreza, if you need to replace one - mine was cracked due to stone damage. Replacement is simple; remove two plastic fixing securing the undertray under the foglight and bend the tray back out the way. Next undo the three fixings (see photo) and this will release the housing. Disconnect the electrical connector. To remove the light from the housing use long-nosed pliers to pinch together the tabs and push the light away from the housing making sure you release at the other two points (see photo). You'll probably have to adjust where the beam is pointing after refitting it. I managed to pick up a good spare from Ebay for not much money whereas I've been quoted £210 by a Subaru main dealer just for the foglight.
  6. Just wondering whether it's worth replacing the shocks after 70k miles to get back a bit of the ride and handling it used to have (standard road use). Looks like for £220 you can get a full set from of KYB shocks - does anyone have experience of KYB? Also whether the change will make a difference. Thanks
  7. Well, I took the car in for the fuel pump harness recall which took about an hour. I'm not sure exactly what they did but it seems to have required the nearest cover plate (to the camera) to be removed (see photo of underneath the back seat). Only problem was that afterwards the car smelt of petrol for about six days although it seems to have finally gone today. I assume that a small amount of fuel was spilt when they accessed the fuel pump and it wasn't sufficiently cleaned up - not good in this hot weather.
  8. Just got a safety recall for the RX, does anyone know what this involves?
  9. It's just started recently but doesn't happen all the time - when I release the brake pedal, there's a small single metallic ping noise. It sounds to me a bit like a sticky microswitch or something similar. I tried looking in the brake pedal area while releasing the brake pedal but of course the noise wouldn't show itself. Does anyone know what it's likely to be? Many thanks
  10. I put on a new Dayco cambelt kit when I bought the car at 35k miles - both the Japanese made toothed roller and the small idler roller (factory fitted?) were pretty rough in spite of the low mileage. I'm now (at 58k) having to fit another timing kit because both the tensioner roller and the small idler roller are noisy and on the way out. The smaller idler is running very hot. Has anyone else had premature roller failure and any recommendations for quality replacement parts? Thanks
  11. Is the AHBL sensitive to slope or load distribution or both? I have to park on a slight upward slope when arriving home and the other half usually gets out to open the gate - after about ten seconds I noticed the headlights were auto adjusted upwards whereas I would have thought they would have adjusted downwards for being on the slope. Is this correct operation? BTW it's a 2010 RX Thanks
  12. +1 It's going in for a service soon and that's on my list of jobs to do.
  13. Just had to change the front tyres because they were worn down on the inside shoulder - I don't think they've done badly having been on for just under 32,000 miles. There was obviously some feathering of the tread blocks as they were getting noisier. Yes I don't drive like I stole it, but the roads round here are rough, mostly potholed unclassified and 'B' roads so they don't get an easy life. The rear tyres have still got life left at about 4mm (they were originally fitted at the same time as the fronts). I went for the same again - Falken Ziex ZE-914 205/50 R17W and the new tyres were noticeably quieter. I would rate these as reasonably good for grip, noise & comfort and mid-range for price.
  14. Wow, you certainly get some strange effects when the battery voltage is low - hazards flashing, security lights going on and off and siren sounding depending on what you do. I'm not sure any of it is helpful in allowing you to concentrate on working out what the problem is. Original problem was being locked out so I had to use the key to get in and then only the driver's door would unlock (even from the inside). The dashboard lit up as usual (so low voltage was not high on my list of suspects) but the car wouldn't start. As I'd had a mystery electronic problem before, I thought it was the return of that so I thought I'd disconnect the battery and 'reset' the system. Achieved nothing apart from the siren going off when I reconnected it. Turned out to be a battery nearly at the end of it's life, not helped by an interior light being left on for a day. Fitted a new Yuasa HSB005 with a cold crank of 550A - it's expensive but it's got a five year guarantee and, so far, it is fine.
  15. Well just 'cos it's there, I decided to take it apart It's made up of about 10 parts heat sealed in the outer sleeve