leostuning Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Hi all, Finally got my engine rebuilt and put back in only I have no fuel and no spark. Its a 1994 WRX with an aftermarket alarm that I think is working ok. I have fitted a new crank sensor. Double checked he timing and triple checked everything is connected back up as it should be Its turning over ok and seems to have good compression only I can't hear the fuel pump (and there is no pressure in the fuel lines at the filter) (I have removed a spark plug and held it on the engine whilst turning the key and there was no spark) Any ideas? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Is the engine loom earth (connects to the inlet manifold) and the main engine earth (connects to the starter bolt /bell housing ) connected ? I think they're might be a difference between jdm and uk for the crank sensor wiring (read it somewhere so not gospel ) if it is true ,is the replacement crank sensor from a jdm ? Symptoms do sound a bit like crank sensor or imoblizer issue , if it the same engine ,loom and ecu are you sure it's not the alarm? Did you earth the coil pack and the end of the plug when checking for spark ,cos newage separate "on plug" coil packs earth through the fixing bolt [emoji6] Have you checked the fuel pump fuse or relay ? Can't remember whether they have a relay or fuse or both tbh but it would be worth a squint 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leostuning Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 I dont recall seeing an engine loom earth il have to have another look. I dont remember taking one off when i took the engine out. Ive checked all fuses. I bridged the fuel pump relay to rule out the fuel pump. T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Engine loom earth bolts to the inlet manifold between cylinder 2 & 4 near the fuel feed and return hard pipes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leostuning Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 I didnt know that the coil packs earthed on the bolt hole. Il try again tomorrow and see if ive got a spark with an earth to that. Although it still wouldnt start when i had the fuel pump relay bypassed and the fuel pump was running. I just think it would be a little odd for it to be the alarm as it was running fine apart from the bottom end knocking before i took the engine out. It is the same engine loom and ecu. Everythings the same but the crank and oil pump. Oh and new crank sensor i bought today. A blueprint one £70 worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leostuning Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 Thanks savage bulldogs il dig out a torch and go and have a nosey now see if i can see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leostuning Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 So... just been out with a torch. Savage bulldogs you beauty!! Ive missed the f***in engine loom earth off! Might stop it from starting ay! Im not going to try now as the coolant needs bleeding and its a bit laye to have it running. But il try first thing tomorrow and let you know how i get on. Thanks very much though. I definately owe you a drink ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 No problem ,hope it's something simple bud . I don't know 100% if the classic coil packs need a earth to work but when I did the newage coil pack conversion on mine ,the newage coil packs had a 3rd wire that you have to "earth " to the bolt hole . The loom earth has a small loop (8mm ish) that just bolts to the inlet . The spur off the loom is near the washer bottle/ center of passenger fuel rail . Have you done a self code check on the ecu and checked your timing marks ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leostuning Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 I tried the code reading trick with the black connetor plugs under the steering wheel but got nothing. But then with the engine loom earth off thats probably why. Either that or an aftermarket ecu. Ive checked the timing ye it took me half an hour to take all the casings off as its quite tight with rad back in. And the fmic pipework was in the way. Still got all that to put back! I take it the newage coils are better spec then are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Hopefully the loom earth will be a cheap fix then , let me know how you get on bud Newage coil packs create the hi amp spark directly on top of the plugs giving a stronger spark . classic coil packs use a igniter behind the boost solinoid to create the high current. which then passes through the engine loom and makes it lose power through the longer length of wire causing resistance [emoji6] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leostuning Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 Savage bulldogs sorry for the late reply only the night of the 4th i was blue lighted to hospital and on 5th had my appendiz taken out so im a little worse for wear. Anyhow the good news is the morninf of the 4th I struggled on and got my timing casings put back on. Intercooler pipes. Crank pulley and alternator belt put back on. Connected the engine loom earth and she fired up straight away. I managed to get it booked in for mot that afternoon. I didnt know how it did until I got home on Friday... it was on the drive with a test certificate on the seat!! Happy days. Ive been advised not to drive but as Im sure you can imagine im keen to get in run in. So iv done about 300km and only noticed one thing that doesnt seem quite right. When decelerating there is a sort of rattling sound almost like exhaust rattle that goes away if i just ever so slightly press the accelerator. I had a couple of bead seals done today and couldnt see anything obvious heatshield wise. I gave the exhaust a good rave well as good asi could after surgery and couldnt reproduce it. Any ideas? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Sorry Leo the thread got buried in my feed (teach me not too post so much lol) Hope you're on the road to recovery bud and glad the earth was a cheap fix [emoji41] As for the rattle on deceleration Heat shields would have been my first thought as well [emoji6] Did you re fit the clutch fork return spring ? (Little spring from fork to bell housing) Have you checked the gearbox /diff oil levels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leostuning Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Leos my sons name hes 1lol. Im alex just so u know ;-) Im getting there now. Its hard to laze about for too long and i always seem to find something to do. Ive not done the levels no. I wouldnt know how to check them truth be told. Im guessing theres a hex key plug to take out for the diff? Ive seen the dipstick for the gearbox, does that feed the transfer box aswell? Ps i still owe u a drink! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 The Gearbox dipstick does the centre diff as well and the rear diff has to Alen plugs . Undo the top one first (if you're gonna refresh the oil) as you don't want to drop the oil out before checking the top one will open (might be seized) Then just fill the diff until it's level with the top hole . Don't worry about the drink Alex ,glad to hear it's back on the road [emoji106] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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