savage bulldogs

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Everything posted by savage bulldogs

  1. Nice work bud , told ya ..... You'd get carried away with a shiny bay 😂 Cleaning ,Prepping and painting is time consuming but it's relatively cheap and looks good imo 😎
  2. Almost seems to be reading the idle backwards ðŸĪ” ticking over sweetly with normal vacuum readings at 700rpm when cold . Then after occasionally bringing the revs up (using the throttle) while warming it up ,the hot idle gradually increases until it hits 1.3k at normal temperature (fans cut in) Afr is a bit Rich but that coupled with good steady vacuum, the fact it drives fine and idles smooth , makes me think it's not a boost or air leak . I did think ECU temp readings but On the "apexi f.c sensor check function" the ECU temp sensor and icv are showing the correct figures . Plus the temp readings on the stock gauge,dash ,apexi and defis are all fairly similar. gonna check o2 , throttle position , icv few other things with a multimeter next . I'll suss it eventually, just hope the weather's still good next weekend. Just I'm Getting a bit used to driving the bug lately ,too and wannabe reminded why I love the v1sti more 😊
  3. Cheers chap 👍 Admittedly I'd be much happier if it just ran right atm tbh 🙄 Had a little bit of time to try n suss it but I've still got a high 1.3k hot idle atm 😏 Sure I'll find out why at some point but for the moment it's still just a pretty garden ornament 😂
  4. That's the fuel system evaporation purge valve , supposed to recirculate the vapour in the fuel lines for a cleaner burn . Its operated by vacuum, so if it or its vac lines are leaking it could cause a lean afr. Generally a vac leak would cause lean afr across all cylinders , not just 1 bank . So if you've got a newage wrx check the Tgv's are operating correctly, as these are a common fault for fuelling issues on just 1 bank 😉
  5. Back to the bay 😊 After finding the best route for the fuel lines, new loom , oil breather pipework and best position for the catch can . I finally started to put her back together 😊 New throttle body /icv gaskets and inlet manifold spacer "o" rings , along with stainless steel bolts 😉 The catch can is now in a similar area to where it used to be but much lower in the bay now. To help lessen the occasional whiff of oil and hopefully it will also drain the moisture in the breather pipes into the can better . Primed the oil system by pulling the ignition fuse , as it's not been started in nearly 6 weeks 😏 Then primed the fuel system , flicked the key and she sprung into life 😍 No leaks and revs up fine but it does seem to have a high hot idle of 1.2k , unfortunately I'll have to look into that at a later date but she lives 😊 You're all probably sick of seeing pics of the inlet and the bay does need a clean (water marks and dust on the ally) but here's a few more now it's finally fitted anyways ðŸĪŠ
  6. Got a busy weekend ahead and knew I wouldn't get any "scooby time " 😏 So managed to get my plastering jobs wrapped up and took today off ,to get stuck in . I made a start fitting the defi sensors, controller and gauges. relocated the aem afr gauge to the drivers side A post ,where the old 4 in 1 gauge used to be and hopefully the centre vent pod for the defi's will be here early next week 😎 First pic mid sparky shenanigans, second full swear tin n done job . Still haven't worked out where I'm gonna put the apexi f.c hand controller yet though ðŸĪ”
  7. 60 mm smoked face depo 4 in 1 gauge and single pod . It shows boost as analog and oil temp , oil pressure and volts as digital display . I've been using this on my own scoob for years and only removed it due to finally upgrading to defi's . It's in overall good condition and includes all sensors /wires needed to plumb it in . You will need a "Subaru specific temp sensor bung " to allow the temp sensor to fit in hole above cylinder no 3 . Only minor issue is that the insulation has deteriorated around the wires from the temp sensor. I just wrapped some insulation tape around it and it works fine (just being honest) ÂĢ45 Posted to mainland UK, payment via PayPal pls . I'll try to find a pic of it lit up and post it on here later .
  8. Finished work early today ,so decided to switch the 4 in 1 gauge sensors over to the defi ones and wire the defi controller and gauges in 😎 Soon realised (again) that I'm much happier wealding a spanner, than doing sparky stuff 🙄 Mid mayhem pic ðŸĪŠ
  9. And so it begins.....Tidying up the bay is a very Slippery slope . "Oh I'll just fit this shiney bit " 😎 "Oh that shiney bit has made the rest of the bay look shoddy" 😏 "Must Buy more shiney bits now " 😋
  10. Oh crap , that belt looks a mess this time too 😏 The previous "specialist scooby mechanic" overtightened the idle pulley bolt when fitting the new cambelt on the bug . Luckily enough I spotted it when doing the rebuild and it was in the pulley that is attached to the tensioner bracket . So I just had the thread helicoiled, when reassembling . Guess you've probably done a bit of damage , so plan A and rebuild ?
  11. Yeah I remember that poor p1 ðŸ˜Ĩ I've worked with hydraulic and pneumatic systems that run much more pressure than the 3.5 bar these will be running , so just needed the right quality materials . New stuff has been a pleasure to work with and although rain (well SNOW actually lol) stopped play for a bit, the inlet manifold is almost ready to refit 😎 Finally I decided to fit the fuel lab fpr at the passenger side rear of the bay , so recut a few pipes and assembled it all to tripple check I'm happy . Blew the lines rails and inlet through with air and petrol , after all I've had the 565cc nissmo injectors cleaned , have a new fuel filter and the complete fuel system is being renewed ( So want everything clean ) I bought new o rings for the Injectors and phase 2 inlet adapters , gave them a light coat of oil before I fitted them. Although the new fuel lines have a stainless steel overbraid ,you still don't want them moving freely in the bay . As this puts stress on the joins and could eventually rub through the line and cause a leak . So I purposefully left a few "lugs" and bolt holes on the inlet ,too use to clamp down the lines . I test fitted the custom jtinovations loom and Once I offer the whole inlet up , I'll then find the best places to cable tie the loom to stop it rubbing too 😉 I've got a few intake air pipes to cut , as I managed to put a Nick in the turbo inlet pipe 🙄 But replacement stuff from A.S.H is cheap enough , thankfully. Busy next Weekend next weekend, so still at least forgnight away from starting her up but getting there now
  12. Hmmm, always seemed to be sounding sweet and well maintained in your ownership ðŸĪ”. Hope he's being reasonable about it , bud
  13. Dunno about that, weather's been sunshine n showers ,so this afternoon the car covers been up n down like a whores draws 😂 And the inlet manifold is back on the kitchen table again , instead of in the bay ðŸĪŠ But hey ,just gotta pop round a mates in the morning to blow the inlet and fuel set up through clean, with a air line and some petrol . Then I can start to put it back together at last . What's up with yours ,have you sussed the coolant leak Mattie?
  14. Cheers ,James . That's the main reason I started my build thread, to try to give people some inspiration to have a go themselves .😎👍 Glad it's helped but she's not as perfect as it looks in the pics , so don't put off if you do see it in the flesh ðŸĪ” I know I've chucked a fair few quid at it over the past 8yrs but it's still been done, by me on a budget (Not by a garage with loads of equipment) . I'm pencilled in on a few local (east Anglian) show stands and do try to make japshow finale with s.o.c at the end of the year , most years . Once she's up n running again, I'll start looking at what other shows I can make it too but have tested the water with the Mrs and scoobyfest already 😊
  15. Dunno about thermals, Thought i was gonna need snow shoes to make it to the scooby scraps shed 😂 Bi polar weather's changed , so I'm gonna make a start on it now ,bud 😊
  16. Result , always good to see something go from major worries to a cheap fix 😎
  17. Not really looked into the value of bug sti wagons tbh , just know they didn't make many and they only made them in classic n bug versions . Think I've only ever seen 1 in the flesh before at my local tuners in Norwich 😎 By the way I'm not saying , don't modify your scoob cos it's rare ish , after all I own one of the first few v1 jdm wrx sti's ever built . I've seen standard ones leap in value lately (due to being eligible for 25yr U.S import laws) but mines far from standard , so probably worth less but it makes me smile whenever I drive it 😉 The likes of turbo dynamics or Owen developments have a very good reputation for rebuilding or upgrading turbos. Most of us use icp for oe stuff , too 👍
  18. Sooo , seeing as the v1sti has been sitting there since November and a few of you have got their scoobs back on the road .... I decided to take the weekend of and devote it to getting her up n running again . And how about no 😏 Woke up this morning in (Not so sunny) Suffolk to SNOW wtf lol
  19. Thought that might have been the reason for your boost issues but tbh my money would've been on a faulty actuator. You might have to refit the actuator it was mapped with too , so it has the same strength spring that it was mapped with 😉
  20. High n welcome to s.o.c Always nice to hear a scooby getting some tlc 😎 What is it ? Feel free to start a project thread in the build thread section to 😉
  21. Quite a rare car you've got there , as Subaru only made a few bug sti's and didn't make any sti wagons from blobeyes onwards . So I would advise you not to mod it to much , if you want to keep the resale value high . I think cusco make under h and diff braces for bugs ,rear strutt braces help but I'm unsure if saloon fit the wagon tbh .
  22. At least you're considering a replacement already , hope your situation means you'll be back soon , bud ðŸĪž
  23. It is fiddily to do the spark plugs on a 4 cylinder scoob but I've only ever heard of people jacking the engine on h6 (6 cylinder) engines . To lift it off the mounts and slide the engine to the side in order to get more clearance. I wouldn't Jack the engine up by the sump , just in case it dents and affects the oil pick up or breaks the sump seal . I have read a few people that remove the plugs from underneath but personally I always do them from the top . By removing the air box and washer bottle. I use a 1/2" drive spark plug socket taped to a 1/2" to 3/8 " adapter with a ratchet spanner . As this gives you enough clearance to withdraw the plug when removing and stops you leaving the socket stuck on the plug when refitting 😉
  24. Shame that Geoff, was a lovely leggy ... Is it gonna be replaced with another scoob , or are you just sticking with the diesel Beemer?