savage bulldogs

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Everything posted by savage bulldogs

  1. I haven't got a clue what spec it is and have never seen it in the flesh .Afaik Darren at abw did the work to, showcase his parts and he makes some quality stuff . someone fairly local used to own it and Think its changed hands a few times since being built , so not sure how good it is now . Don't let that put you off though, if you like it go and see it for yourself to find out if it's still in good condition.
  2. Have you got any service history with it ? If a shock or bearing had been replaced for maintenance it might not have been re aligned? Although there's plenty of tread is there any difference in the amount of tread on the inner or outer edges ? I had a full corner weighted geo set up done to my spec for ยฃ150 , so a 4 wheel alignment check should be a lot cheaper. At least you'd be able to rule out alignment issues too . Either way it doesn't sound right as these cars normally feel more planted than most other cars , due to the awd and low center of gravity boxer layout .
  3. That 1st pic shows oil on the top of the head and block, so it could be leaking from there and running down the back of the head ? There's the main crankcase breather and possibly avcs oil feed hardlines in that area . On the back of the head there's turbo oil feed and turbo oil drain . It's difficult to say tbh but I'd give the area a clean with autoglym machine cleaner and replace the copper washers for all the oil lines where they attach to the banjo bolts .then visually check the turbo oil drain pipe and crankcase breather pipe for splits . The avcs also have oil screen filters at the other end of the avcs lines ,these can block and cause issues. Some remove them but I just bought new ones from icp .
  4. Scoobies (like most cars) are set up from the factory to understeer. As this is easier for the majority of people to correct , let of the throttle and wait for the front wheels to gain traction. I'd say you have a Bush or geometry issue , unless a previous owner has upgraded a few suspension components to create oversteer . Do you know if a previous owner or have you changed anything... shocks ,wheel bearing lowering springs ect ,that might throw the geometry out ? Any uneven tyre wear ? Any worn bushes should've been picked up on the mot really but maybe take it for a 4 wheel alignment and ask them to check while it's on the ramp
  5. Yeah slip joints do blow until they've become hot enough for the metal to expand and seal . They're good though ,as they allow movement during heat cycles, which in turn reduces stress on welds and flanges ๐Ÿ˜‰ As for you jay...... Unequal length manifold (get her burbling like a scooby should) . Harvey trick up pipe matched to the size of your headers and turbo , too increase spool ๐Ÿ˜‰ Speak to Alyn at Asperformance as he has the rights to "Harvey up pipes" and info on what size you'd need . If you need anymore help spending your money on scooby parts .... I'll gladly help you as my wife can't moan at me for spending YOUR money ๐Ÿ˜Š
  6. Yep ,I'm still up for this . Might have sold the bug sti ๐Ÿฅบ so I'll be there in the v1sti ๐Ÿ˜Š I've just pm'd you , to find out the PayPal details ,fella ๐Ÿ‘
  7. Bung above cylinder no 3 ,is definitely the best place for oil temp readings, the one behind the alternator is normally where oil pressure sensor is fitted bud
  8. Dont get me wrong I'd love another early impreza sti project ,myself ๐Ÿ˜Ž although I dont know if the wife would be as happy as me about it ,As I already have a v1 sti and a v7sti type UK ๐Ÿ˜Š Also I only mentioned the inner arches as they normally rust from the inside out ,so by the time you see it on the outside the inside is normally far worse . Just to give you a idea, for a clean original v2 sti ra the price would probably be around ยฃ7k . Although its difficult to put a price on yours "as is" tbh, as it depends on how much work it needs . It obviously depends on what other cars you drive but I'm sure youd love the rawness and power to weight ratio of a 280hp 1230kg car , once you got it up n running.
  9. I'd imagine you'd sell it fairly easy but at the right price. As I had a closer look at the pics and it has rust on the outer arches (which normally means the inner arches are worse) and would probably need a full respray too . That coupled with the fact it's been sat a while ,so will probably need a bit of mechanical work,(new brakes,full service and cambelt kit). Means it's a fairly big project but would certainly be worth saving.
  10. Hi n welcome. The v1 and v2 wrx sti ra are very desirable cars ,especially as their 25 yr old (or nearly) as it makes them eligible for U.S import . As Jay said the power to weight ratio and lack of driver aids make them so much more fun to drive . As far as the roll cage goes I'm not if they were a factory option but there is quite a few factory options that I'm not aware of (so it could well be) .Either way if kept relatively standard ,it will only go up in value ๐Ÿ˜‰
  11. The Subaru 4 post are fairly prone to seized or sticky pistons ,especially if the piston dust seals are damaged or the cars been sat a while . Warped discs will normally give pedal judder or you'd feel it at low breaking speeds. You might find a clean ,check all pistons are moving freely, re grease and re assembly might solve your problems
  12. Look on the gearbox bellhousing near the starter motor, they're should be a ty### number on a white sticker . Give this a Google to find out the box's ratio then buy a diff with the same ratio . Other than ratio there's two main types of diff r160 all early classic and newage wrx 's / r180 later classic sti and newage sti's.If your unsure what r number the diff is give your year and model a Google to find out what should be in there .
  13. Nice work bet you can almost smell the vpower now lol
  14. Hi n welcome, nice selection of Subaru's you have there ๐Ÿ˜Ž And I though I was overdoing it owning two imprezas ๐Ÿ˜Š
  15. Cheers ,well over engineered but its getting there ๐Ÿ˜Š Although all the ally pipework has a swage or bump on every join , I will get round to getting some better clamps and matching blue joiners (it's tweaking OCD lol) ... well once I decide what I'm doing with the pipework ๐Ÿค” Since refitting a stock position cold side I've had to make do with what I had to hand to make it work .As I'd clocked the aps sr40 coldside to loose the u bend in the fmic pipework that runs over the hotside. So for now it's been twisted/ lifted away from the hotside as far as possible and has a straight black silicone joiner in it ๐Ÿ˜ I'm thinking about maybe trying to reroute the turbo outlet fmic pipework clockwise around the bay .Then connect it to the current fmic to throttle body pipework by the battery/bottom rad hose . This means I'd have to convert the current fmic intake pipework to connect to the reversed inlet throttle body and run the core in reverse ๐Ÿค” Only a idea at this stage but it would mean the fmic pipework wouldn't run over the hotside (less heatsoak ,maybe) and I could cut out more fmic pipework by losing the pipework that runs from fmic core ,under the wheel arch and through the inner wing . Might also try to step up to a bigger diameter bore ally pipe on the turbo inlet tract sooner ,as at the moment it's stock size from turbo inlet all the way to the maf. I know the stock turbo inlet neck will always be restrictive but you never know it might help flow . For now I've turned the boost target down to 1.3 bar and I'm only getting a bit of overboost to 1.35 in 4th through to 6th . Spoke to Clive attowe today about which of the 18 settings for actuator strength he'd like me to start with by haven't got a clue when I'll find the time to book in a dyno tweek atm ๐Ÿ˜
  16. Proppa roasting in sunny Suffolk yesterday ,so I have a red neck and possible sunstroke but ..... i also have a new turbo fitted ๐Ÿ˜Š Fitting seemed to go easily, without any modifications needed . I pulled the ignition fuse and cranked it over a few times to make sure it was primed with oil , set up some low targets and duty on the avcr and took it for a test run . All seemed good so I decided to switch the avcr back over to the original high boost setting for the old aps sr40 (gt28r) . The old gt28r only occasionally used to hit the peak 1.6 bar it was targeted for in 4th and above (on a cold day) . Did a few part throttle pulls while monitoring afr and knock and all seemed good . Made my way to a slip lane and did a 3rd gear pull ,thinking the most it would make would be about 1.5 bar ..... 1.74 bar and it went like a stabbed rat ๐Ÿ˜ฒ๐Ÿ˜œ Although afr and the apexi peak levels were good I'm gonna back the boost duty and targets off a bit ,until i manage to find the time to get attowe to work his magic So far ,so good and of course heres a few pics ๐Ÿ˜‰
  17. Well top Mark's for DHL, Frankfurt on Wednesday night, on my doorstep in Suffolk on Thursday afternoon ๐Ÿ˜Š First impressions of the arashi turbo are that it's been well made , all the machined surfaces are well finished and not burred. Every nut and bolt has engineer's paint on ,which is normally used once a fixing has been torqued to mark the position of the nut . There was a fair bit of stuff in the fitting kit ,which all appears to be good quality... Turbo outlet and uppipe studs/nuts , numerous different strength springs for the billet actuator, oil line with banjo bolts and gaskets . I never use anything but Subaru exhaust gaskets but the gaskets themselves look better quality than oe ,with a couple of more layers and a polished finish . There's also a core balance sheet ,so hopefully it's been balanced and a serial number id card along with some other info . I think we've are mugged off in the UK for the price of turbos and hopefully the arashi will be reasonable quality but only time and a dyno tweek will tell . So here's a few pics for now ๐Ÿ˜‰
  18. Cheers chap, hopefully I wont need one but if I do that's a pretty cheap solution ๐Ÿ‘ As for what am I doing to my subaru today ๐Ÿ˜‰
  19. Oh yes bud , know a fair few people with dedicated track cars and helped build a few of them . So fully understand that there's a massive difference between road and race . I just mentioned the pfc carbon metallic pads ,as they were a similar sounding compound to what the OP said he'd used on track before . Tbh the dba t2 discs are probably good enough for occasional track days but that's why I recommend he speak to alyn at as performance .As he certainly knows his stuff and will take the time to go through tried n tested options, rather than just selling you expensive stuff you dont need or can afford ๐Ÿ˜‰ Do totally agree with the need for a swirl pot or spec c anti surge fuel pump cage (to stop fuel cut when cornering ) and a baffled sump if he intends to track it though ๐Ÿ‘
  20. If you mean the purge valve , its bolted to the underside of the inlet manifold, normally has a couple of vacuum lines attached and a plug from the loom . They're a bit of a pain to get to ,with the inlet still attached to the engine but they can be removed without removing the whole inlet . Just check the vacuum lines from the purge valve to the charcoal canister (black plastic cylinder at the front of the bay) ,fuel line and intake pipe are all still connected and dont have any splits in them first . As the evap system doesn't often fail tbh .
  21. Well the rough quote for for the turbo rebuild was ยฃ350 , so seeing as it only cost me ยฃ150 in the first place , I dropped it off for them to have a look at and hopefully get a upgrade as well as a rebuild . Once they'd took it apart they then called me and said it would be close to ยฃ1k to rebuild instead ,due to the Garrett ball bearing core ๐Ÿค”๐ŸคจโœŒ. So I went and picked it up and its currently sat in the scooby scraps shed in a box ๐Ÿ˜. So after loads of searching and research ing for a cheaper option ,I've decided to go with a arashi tdo5 billet 20g with a polished and ported 7cm housing. Yeah, I know it's no Garrett and the haters are probably gonna hate ๐Ÿ™„ I've spent a bit on the "project" over the years but its been done over a long period and the whole thing still comes in just under ยฃ6k (including the purchase of the v1sti ) . So after seeing nothing but good reviews, I thought I'd give the ยฃ600 turbo a go . Knowing that if it does eventually need a rebuild it will cost a fraction of the Garrett gt28r ,as it's a journal based turbo . According to the tracking its currently in the DHL Frankfurt hub , so it should be here soon and I'll post some pics and see how well it looks like its been made when it gets here ๐Ÿ˜Š
  22. If a carbon metallic pad compound is what your used to , then I'd recommend pfc pads and dba discs . Mine is only a road car but the combo seems very good , I bought mine from Alyn at "Asperformance" . Very knowledgeable chap and well worth a call to discuss your needs and budget . R.m performance in banbury is worth a call if you want someone fairly local . They build road and rally scoobies and although I build my own engines , Mick at rm performance is one of the few people I'd let work on my car , if I couldn't do it myself .
  23. Not too sure if that chart applies to your model , as it says my 00 at the top and no year difference on the UK turbo section ? . Some of the sti and other model ECU numbers don't look right to me either but I could be wrong . Was fairly sure my old UK v3 ran 0.6 bar before I had it mapped with a esl daughter board up to 1.4 bar (265 hp) but that was almost 10 yrs ago lol . With those mods it does need remapping and you'd certainly get more power /higher boost target but it's difficult to say if that will "fix" any issues Bear in mind The tdo4 and grey injectors will limit the remap numbers to sub 290hp . Might be worth getting a smoke test done ,to make sure non of the other fmic pipework or inlet tract is leaking boost first . As I may be wrong about the standard v3 UK boost being only 0.6 bar. The other possibility could be that it's in limp mode due to the mods , most models will only run 0.5 bar if the ECU senses something running outside its base map parameters. As I said before, i personally wouldn't be using boost on a scooby that's had a decat and fmic fitted without being mapped . If it leans off or overboosts there's a good chance you'll be footing the bill for a rebuild, which is much more costly than a esl remap .
  24. From memory a 97 UK turbo has about 220hp and only runs 0.6 bar from the factory , so quite possible it's running the correct amount of boost . Running a decat and fmic but not being mapped is quite risky and could lead to a expensive rebuild . Personally I wouldn't drive a scooby on boost with those major breathing mods until its mapped . The standard tdo4 is fairly small and not really suited to a fmic , they're much more responsive on a tmic . Due to the extra volume of air needed to fill a fmic and it's pipework (bigger turbos fill the fmic quicker)
  25. I may well be wrong as I'm not up to spec on the n.a engine range , unfortunately but is the 133 hp version still single cam ? As I wouldn't have thought that you'd gain 20 hp on a n.a by just adding bits from another engine or doing breathing mods . Saying that I think some of the later dohc 2ltr n.a engines have almost 160hp, so maybe a later 2ltr 16v na engine might be the answer for more power but keeping it n.a . Most people will just say to improve performance on a na, concentrate on handling ,lightening and braking mods to get the most out of the boxer low center of gravity and the AWD system. Then save for a turbo version