savage bulldogs

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savage bulldogs last won the day on July 12

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About savage bulldogs

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  • Location:
    east anglia
  • Subaru Model
    v1 sti (money pit)

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  1. I haven't got a clue what spec it is and have never seen it in the flesh .Afaik Darren at abw did the work to, showcase his parts and he makes some quality stuff . someone fairly local used to own it and Think its changed hands a few times since being built , so not sure how good it is now . Don't let that put you off though, if you like it go and see it for yourself to find out if it's still in good condition.
  2. Have you got any service history with it ? If a shock or bearing had been replaced for maintenance it might not have been re aligned? Although there's plenty of tread is there any difference in the amount of tread on the inner or outer edges ? I had a full corner weighted geo set up done to my spec for £150 , so a 4 wheel alignment check should be a lot cheaper. At least you'd be able to rule out alignment issues too . Either way it doesn't sound right as these cars normally feel more planted than most other cars , due to the awd and low center of gravity boxer layout .
  3. That 1st pic shows oil on the top of the head and block, so it could be leaking from there and running down the back of the head ? There's the main crankcase breather and possibly avcs oil feed hardlines in that area . On the back of the head there's turbo oil feed and turbo oil drain . It's difficult to say tbh but I'd give the area a clean with autoglym machine cleaner and replace the copper washers for all the oil lines where they attach to the banjo bolts .then visually check the turbo oil drain pipe and crankcase breather pipe for splits . The avcs also have oil screen filters at the other end of the avcs lines ,these can block and cause issues. Some remove them but I just bought new ones from icp .
  4. Scoobies (like most cars) are set up from the factory to understeer. As this is easier for the majority of people to correct , let of the throttle and wait for the front wheels to gain traction. I'd say you have a Bush or geometry issue , unless a previous owner has upgraded a few suspension components to create oversteer . Do you know if a previous owner or have you changed anything... shocks ,wheel bearing lowering springs ect ,that might throw the geometry out ? Any uneven tyre wear ? Any worn bushes should've been picked up on the mot really but maybe take it for a 4 wheel alignment and ask them to check while it's on the ramp
  5. Yeah slip joints do blow until they've become hot enough for the metal to expand and seal . They're good though ,as they allow movement during heat cycles, which in turn reduces stress on welds and flanges 😉 As for you jay...... Unequal length manifold (get her burbling like a scooby should) . Harvey trick up pipe matched to the size of your headers and turbo , too increase spool 😉 Speak to Alyn at Asperformance as he has the rights to "Harvey up pipes" and info on what size you'd need . If you need anymore help spending your money on scooby parts .... I'll gladly help you as my wife can't moan at me for spending YOUR money 😊
  6. Yep ,I'm still up for this . Might have sold the bug sti 🥺 so I'll be there in the v1sti 😊 I've just pm'd you , to find out the PayPal details ,fella 👍
  7. Bung above cylinder no 3 ,is definitely the best place for oil temp readings, the one behind the alternator is normally where oil pressure sensor is fitted bud
  8. Dont get me wrong I'd love another early impreza sti project ,myself 😎 although I dont know if the wife would be as happy as me about it ,As I already have a v1 sti and a v7sti type UK 😊 Also I only mentioned the inner arches as they normally rust from the inside out ,so by the time you see it on the outside the inside is normally far worse . Just to give you a idea, for a clean original v2 sti ra the price would probably be around £7k . Although its difficult to put a price on yours "as is" tbh, as it depends on how much work it needs . It obviously depends on what other cars you drive but I'm sure youd love the rawness and power to weight ratio of a 280hp 1230kg car , once you got it up n running.
  9. I'd imagine you'd sell it fairly easy but at the right price. As I had a closer look at the pics and it has rust on the outer arches (which normally means the inner arches are worse) and would probably need a full respray too . That coupled with the fact it's been sat a while ,so will probably need a bit of mechanical work,(new brakes,full service and cambelt kit). Means it's a fairly big project but would certainly be worth saving.
  10. Hi n welcome. The v1 and v2 wrx sti ra are very desirable cars ,especially as their 25 yr old (or nearly) as it makes them eligible for U.S import . As Jay said the power to weight ratio and lack of driver aids make them so much more fun to drive . As far as the roll cage goes I'm not if they were a factory option but there is quite a few factory options that I'm not aware of (so it could well be) .Either way if kept relatively standard ,it will only go up in value 😉
  11. The Subaru 4 post are fairly prone to seized or sticky pistons ,especially if the piston dust seals are damaged or the cars been sat a while . Warped discs will normally give pedal judder or you'd feel it at low breaking speeds. You might find a clean ,check all pistons are moving freely, re grease and re assembly might solve your problems
  12. Look on the gearbox bellhousing near the starter motor, they're should be a ty### number on a white sticker . Give this a Google to find out the box's ratio then buy a diff with the same ratio . Other than ratio there's two main types of diff r160 all early classic and newage wrx 's / r180 later classic sti and newage sti's.If your unsure what r number the diff is give your year and model a Google to find out what should be in there .
  13. Nice work bet you can almost smell the vpower now lol
  14. Hi n welcome, nice selection of Subaru's you have there 😎 And I though I was overdoing it owning two imprezas 😊
  15. Cheers ,well over engineered but its getting there 😊 Although all the ally pipework has a swage or bump on every join , I will get round to getting some better clamps and matching blue joiners (it's tweaking OCD lol) ... well once I decide what I'm doing with the pipework 🤔 Since refitting a stock position cold side I've had to make do with what I had to hand to make it work .As I'd clocked the aps sr40 coldside to loose the u bend in the fmic pipework that runs over the hotside. So for now it's been twisted/ lifted away from the hotside as far as possible and has a straight black silicone joiner in it 😏 I'm thinking about maybe trying to reroute the turbo outlet fmic pipework clockwise around the bay .Then connect it to the current fmic to throttle body pipework by the battery/bottom rad hose . This means I'd have to convert the current fmic intake pipework to connect to the reversed inlet throttle body and run the core in reverse 🤔 Only a idea at this stage but it would mean the fmic pipework wouldn't run over the hotside (less heatsoak ,maybe) and I could cut out more fmic pipework by losing the pipework that runs from fmic core ,under the wheel arch and through the inner wing . Might also try to step up to a bigger diameter bore ally pipe on the turbo inlet tract sooner ,as at the moment it's stock size from turbo inlet all the way to the maf. I know the stock turbo inlet neck will always be restrictive but you never know it might help flow . For now I've turned the boost target down to 1.3 bar and I'm only getting a bit of overboost to 1.35 in 4th through to 6th . Spoke to Clive attowe today about which of the 18 settings for actuator strength he'd like me to start with by haven't got a clue when I'll find the time to book in a dyno tweek atm 😏