savage bulldogs

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


savage bulldogs last won the day on May 24

savage bulldogs had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,386 Excellent

About savage bulldogs

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    east anglia
  • Subaru Model
    v1 sti (money pit)

Recent Profile Visitors

5,199 profile views
  1. Looking good @JamesJDMwagon always found ash good quality stuff ,too 👍 Decided to give the bug a "quick wash" . Soon evolved into touching up a few stone chips , polishing the headlight lenses and a coat of killer wax 😊
  2. If the cars standard or even just mapped and if it's a road car , I'd say save your money and buy a standard full belt kit with water pump from import car parts. If you're doing it yourself make sure you read up on it , buy genuine stuff, and get yourself a cam locking tool .As the left bank cam pulleys are under pressure (cam lobes pushing on valve train) and they'll spin when you remove the belt , possibly damaging valves .
  3. I had adjusted tps and fuel pressure and it was running bang on yesterday 😎 Took it out today and the afr is all over the place again 😒 I've got quite a few ECU pin voltage differences between the car and oe v1 schematics but it's a phase 1 car running a phase 1.5 tps . So it might have always had different voltages and was mapped that way in the first place . So after numerous chats with Tim at jtinnovations and Clive attowe the only thing we all think it could be , is that the old loom was giving wrong voltages and was mapped with them . Now the looms not faulty the ECU is receiving different voltages 🤔 It was running fine for 2yrs and Tbh I've only changed the rails and regulator. It's' starting to do my Swede in now ,as I've tried n tested everything I can think of and I'm almost ready to flick a match at it . So I'm going to run it up to attowes Monday week ,so he can check sensors, vac/intake leaks and see if a tweek can resolve it . In the meantime I'll have to show the bug some love and ......
  4. Had the same thing in the bug , alarm going off randomly. Me being me , got all technical testing wires and fuses and couldn't find a fault 🤔 Turned out during the sunny weather I'd been leaving the sun visors down and they were blocking the signal to the movement sensors, I assume as the car cooled down inside it set the alarm off 🙄
  5. Had 2 days off work this week , be rude not to spend them doing something constructive. So I Fitted a new toilet yesterday morning which kept the mrs happy and earnt me some brownie points .. Promptly cashed them in yesterday afternoon and fitted a new dsr door on the bug ,as the old 1 had a large dent in it . Then spent some time adjusting the fuel pressure and tps voltage on the v1 sti .... Think I've finally sussed it and its running much better atm 🤞
  6. No probs, always glad to help if I can 👍 I generally try to give advice from my own experience, that way I know it's right and not just something I've read But I was told by a trusted source that at wot apexi will do as the map asks and will only adjust fuelling at part throttle. People slate the old skool "game boy " apexi for being old tech but it's tried n tested, it works and still has tech support. Which is more than can be said for some newer cheap ecus . With a fmic and induction kit you should probably be on the "gc8 super intake" setting in the airflow section. But mine was mapped on that setting with those mods . To get the most from the mods , I'd suggest to get it tweeked by a mapper , they'd adjust timing as well as fuelling and get the boost /torque curve nice n smooth. Plus the added bonus of better economy 😉
  7. Glad it was a easy vac line fix fella 😎 Think 18 psi is about 1.2 bar ? No Subaru base map is that high , I'd imagine it should be 0.8 bar max on a jdm . Is that a aftermarket 3 port boost solenoid ? With that and a 1.2 bar boost target ,it would suggest it's not running a Subaru base map . My v1sti had grey 380cc injectors and a tdo5 as standard , at 0.8 bar it made 280hp from the factory. Running 1.2 bar on a tdo5 would require more fuel than the 380cc could supply, so that's probably why your seeing 100% duty . Personally I'd turn the boost down on the controller to a max of 1 bar . When you can afford it ,then fit the 440'cc injectors and get a mapper to tweek the map . Then cross your fingers and save for a stronger box lol
  8. Hi n welcome, I'm not too clued up on the newer spec but I'd certainly recommend engine out for clutch and timing belt . As it will make access a lot easier especially if you don't have use of a ramp , due to the 6 speed box being so heavy (nearly 70 kg) . Parts wise ,only use Subaru oe gaskets as the cheaper ones dont last and you'll end up doing the job twice . Most of us use import car parts , Luke knows his scoobies and they supply oe Subaru stuff at less than main stealer prices. If you do decide to pull the motor ,I'd suggest replacing front and rear crank seals (easy to do while timing belt and clutch is off) .Also drivers side cam cover gaskets with half moons ,as these tend to go brittle due to the heat cycles from the up pipe and turbo (much easier to do with the engine out) . Clutch wise does depend on usage and future power goals but standard exedy blue box is good for mid 300 hp /flbs and exedy pink box is good for mid 400's , both give oe pedal feel . Check the flywheel face for cracks or grooves, you can get them skimmed if needs be or upgrade to a lightweight aftermarket one . All the best with the TLC and feel free to start a build thread or post some pics of your progress 👍
  9. Could've had a hub /driveshaft replacement by a previous owner or if it's a import ? As they tend to fit different parts on the same year /model pending on which market they're made for . Classics have at least 3 different types of hub and shafts , pending on model ,year and whether they're UK spec or jdm. Normally a visual check of whether they're Male or female inner c.v ,abs "pick up" and a count of the amount of splines on the outer c.v will let you know what type you need . If you're still struggling to find the right one , take a note of the above and give Luke a ring at import car parts to find the correct replacement 😉
  10. The apexi has got fuel correction at idle and cruise and will make adjustments to fuel trim but at wot it does what its told (runs the map that's on it) so I wouldn't just chuck bigger injectors in . What turbo did you have and what turbo have you fitted ? Same actuator or new one on the new turbo ?
  11. I've only had the crank and no spark a few times ... Crank sensor unplugged . Inline fuse to aftermarket alarm blown . Teeth bent on the crank sprocket , so crank sensor wasn't picking up the position of the crank at certain points during its rotation. Could try checking engine loom earths (2 on the manifold) and multi plugs (by the battery) are making a good connection/free from corrosion
  12. @JamesJDMwagon actuator working ok ? Haven't knocked off any vac lines by accident?
  13. Try jumping it off another car ? Can you hear the fuel pump priming and have you definitely got spark ? You can check for spark by removing 1 off the coilpacks , putting a spark plug in it and "earthing " the plug tip . You should be able to see the plug fire when you crank it over , just Make sure you use insulated pliers 😉
  14. Can't say I've seen exhaust gases melting paint before tbh , has the car been mapped with pops n bangs or does it have anti lag ? If so it's probably due to flames rather than gases , if not It must be running really rich to have a high enough petrol content to degrade the paintwork.. Think you can buy exhaust shields , normally made from carbon fiber or stainless steel
  15. Assume it a bug or blob sti , has it got a aftermarket alarm ? I've got some wiring diagrams for v1 to v3 but not much for newage I'm afraid. But if you know the cam ,crank and spark pins have you done a harness ohm check between ECU pins and sensors ?