savage bulldogs

Moderators
  • Content Count

    5,008
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    319

savage bulldogs last won the day on April 6

savage bulldogs had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,565 Excellent

About savage bulldogs

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    east anglia
  • Subaru Model
    v1 sti (money pit)

Recent Profile Visitors

6,010 profile views
  1. You can only turn the left bank cams in a certain direction when removing or refitting a cam belt , unfortunately if you just release the belt the cams can both turn in opposite directions and cause the valves to hit one another. Hopefully you haven't bent any valves , as this might cause the engine to lock , if they're not returning into the valve guides . The Mark's on the crank look a bit slightly past its correct position ? . But I wouldn't have thought it's enough to lock the engine . Could try removing the belt , taking care not to let the left bank cams spin in the wrong direction . Once the cams are all at base circle (lobes not pushing down and opening the valves ) do a couple of slow n gentle rotations of the crank . If a valve can't return into the head (its bent) the crank will lock as the piston hits the valve . If the bottom end turns full rotations freely , this might mean you've been lucky and not bent anything. Then re align all Mark's , pull back the tensioner and try refitting the belt again . This is for a ej207 but it might help
  2. I'm not 100% sure but I think a impreza of the same year would have the same clutch . Maybe cross referencing some part numbers would confirm that though , if no body else knows for definite? Generally any 5 speed pull clutch kit fits although there is a 5mm diameter difference in some later 5 speed clutch plates . For anything up to 350hp the stock exedy blue box kit is fine ,350hp to mid 400's then a exedy pink box clutch kit ,is the usual option . The kits come with bearing, spring cover and clutch plate . As for the flywheel if its not grooved or warped it can be cleaned and re used , if it is tramlined it can be skimmed and if it's got cracks it needs to be replaced . I'd suggest fitting a new spigot bearing (in the centre of the flywheel) get both front driveshaft , prop shaft and rear crank seals (it makes sense to change these while the box is off )
  3. I don't use polish very often , as the paintwork is now fairly good .I bought some killer wax last year that seems good . As a winter sealer I always end up going back to using colinite 845 , it's for boats and planes, so lasts a lot longer than most of the other car stuff I've used 😉
  4. I'm certainly glad I got most of parts I needed before lockdown, I've certainly had plenty of time on my hands lately so have been putting it to good use 😉 Cleaned up the shed (again),carried the short block in and fitted it onto the stand ,then lubed the arp headstuds and cleaned the oil off the deck face. Got one of the v4sti heads out of the boxes, removed the cams and cleaned the mating surfaces on those too Seeing as I'll hopefully not be seeing the rcm headgaskets again , I took a pic of those fitted too 🤞 Lubed the apr headstud washers and nuts ,torqued the heads down ,temporarily fitted both cam covers and masked up all openings and access bungs Couple of Coats of ally etch primer . hi temp engine paint dried off with a heat gun in between coats , cos I got fed up with watching paint dry lol .
  5. Hi n welcome, lovely looking scoob 👍 Best of luck with the remap and Keep us posted how it goes
  6. Hopefully its nothing to serious but the best bet would be to get the ECU codes read . Under normal circumstances most garages would be able to do this but you can buy a odb2 bluetooth adapter and download the torque app on your phone .this will read most ECU codes afaik
  7. Ring compressor turned up 😎 so I cleaned up the bores and mating surfaces of the other block half and fitted the king main bearings in both casings. Coated the bearings with graphgeon paste and lowered the crank in position. Sorted through the big box of gaskets and found the new block o rings and put threebond on the mating surfaces case halves Soaked the threads of the block bolts in oil and torqued the half's together oiled and fitted the pre gapped piston rings to the pistons, coated the bores and fitted the pistons to the rods via the access holes Fitted the splash guard , oil pick and loosely bolted on the sump Still got a fair bit to do but the short block is almost complete, so I finally feel like I'm getting somewhere 😎
  8. just noticed this post is in the leggy section and those diagrams are for a impreza, might still be useful but I don't know if they're exactly the same, sorry
  9. I can't remember if the 02 sensor wires spur off from the main engine loom , if so check the grey multi plug (near the battery and clutch slave) pins are making good contact . Also the engine loom ground that attaches to the inlet manifold, near the fuel hardline flow and return. Don't know if you've got a service manual? But here's a few pics that I have on my phone that might help .
  10. Hi n welcome, I'd echo what jay has said and generally just a panel filter and remap would see 260 to 280 hp . Pending on budget most fit a de cat up pipe before mapping , as the wrx has a pre cat in the up pipe that restricts flow. But at your target hp not many mods are required before mapping . There's loads of options for suspension upgrades from sti shocks and springs to fully adjustable coilovers . I personally run meister r's and have found them less crashy than b.c's but whichever way your needs,budget and preference steer you . The front suspension has camber bolts as standard but the rear doesn't, so Buy some camber bolts for the rears as this will give some adjustment on the rear when the geo is being set up . As for brakes at 260 to 280 hp you might find a decent pad and disc combo could be all you'd need , I'd say see what you think of the standard equipment before upgrading. Otherwise most tend to fit sti brembos as the first upgrade , if the pcd is the same the discs and calipers will just bolt on .
  11. Found that I'd left a few of my better files around the farther in laws ,while working on his old skool 60's mini so progress has been painfully slow setting the ring gaps For those who don't know , you do this by pushing the rings down squarely in the bore with a piston crown and measuring the gap with feelers gauges. Then widen the gap , refit in the bore and measure again ... normally and again and again in my case as I always worry that I'll take too much off and make the gap too big . I also remembered I no longer own a piston ring compressor so had borrowed one of a mate for the last 2 builds , unfortunately he has no spleen and is on the high risk list for the virus So I won't be popping round to see him anytime soon . The one I ordered off ebay this morning was dispatched this afternoon , so hopefully it will get here soon . cleaned plastiguage off the crank and coated the king bearings in graphgen builders paste , then fitted those to the rods and end caps . coated the arp end cap bolts and torqued them down onto the crank Cleaned the bores in one bank and that's sat in a sealed box but will wait until the piston ring compressor is here before before fitting the crank into the block halves . As I don't want the case assembly left open (no pistons in the bores ) for too long ,even in doors and in the dry 😉
  12. Well today didn't get off to a good start Unfortunately, a bit of miscommunication from me and lack of experience with boxer engines from my engineer, ment the tang hadn't been altered on the center bearing case . I had asked him to do it and even shown him which bearing type needed to be fitted into number 3 main (old centre thrust position) but that didn't get told to the other machinist . This ment he'd used the wrong bearing type in the center main ,when checking everything over after doing the thrust conversion, overbore and hone . Wrong bearing in centre main looks like it fits fine as the bearing tang holds it central. But the thrust type 1, 3 ,5 have the tang in a different position and you can see it pushes the bearing off centre After chatting to him , I decided dust of my old metal working tools to measure up , scribe and file the casings myself to fit the tangs. Luckily enough I still have a few decent needle files ,so took a measurement off no1 main (to the right in the pic) then masked and marked up no3 . It doesn't look perfect but it's not bad and measures up spot on Correct bearing location tang now makes the bearing sit central So that ate up a lot of my time but I did still manage to check for piston skirt to oil squirter delete grub screw contact , plenty of room A quick glance at deck height .... not a wack a mole in sight (pistons don't poke out of the deck face ) And plastigauge the crank mains , which are all mid to high on standard limit I'll start tomorrow by gapping the rings and fitting them to each piston , then clean the crank ,bearings and bores before finally starting to assemble the bottom end
  13. Looks like a nice clean v1 wrx you've found , nice choice chap 👍
  14. I've been at home since Tuesday at the start of the uk lockdown ,so had a few (to many) beers at home on Friday celebrating my birthday and didn't do anything scooby till sunday 🙄 Although most of the parts have been through the hotwash, there's no such thing as being too clean prior to assembly. My teenage daughter's like to get involved so I put them to work cleaning parts , while I dried them with a heat gun 😊 I trust Pat's work but I will still dry build the mains with plastigauge, to triple check the crank clearances . I also want to check that the longer throw on the 2.5 crank hasn't caused the piston skirts to contact the grub screws ,that I used to delete the oil squirters 😉 At least with everything clean, dried and prepped , I'm ready to do the dry build , if all goes well , I might even get chance to gap the rings too Keep safe people's 👍
  15. Did it run ok for long after the conversion ? Have you checked the ECU for codes and done a ECU reset ? Could try cleaning the maf with brake cleaner before buying any parts . When you changed the spark plugs did they all look the same colour , if one plug was wet with fuel or a different colour to the rest ? it might indicate a misfire on that cylinder , as the symptoms sort of sound like that might be the issue