savage bulldogs

Moderators
  • Content Count

    4,561
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    240

savage bulldogs last won the day on March 20

savage bulldogs had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,322 Excellent

8 Followers

About savage bulldogs

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    east anglia
  • Subaru Model
    v1 sti (money pit)

Recent Profile Visitors

5,093 profile views
  1. Is it definitely not a fault in the harness , have you done a ohm check on just the loom to make sure ? I only say this as Subaru ecu's don't often go wrong ,although the short on the coilpack circuit could've well cause a ecu's issue . Could try Tim @ "JTINOVATIONS" as they have just made me a custom engine loom and might either be able to help or know someone who can .
  2. I would probably think it would be cheaper to buy a second hand replacement ecu tbh . Do you know what's wrong with the current ecu and have you fixed the issue that caused the fault ?
  3. Hi n welcome to s.o.c . Had a mate that made his bug into a hawk , you wouldn't have known unless you'd been told due to the private plate . As for rear adjustments, the stock set up only has adjustable camber bolts on the front . So most buy elbaich camber bolts to give the rear some adjustment during a alignment after lowering a scoob 😉
  4. Cheers Matt 👍 Had all 3 deliveries turn up today , can't fault advanced automotive, jtinovations or racingline for speedy dispatch and customer service 👍 Sparky stuff ain't my forte but Tim at jtinovations certainly knows his stuff and the 25yr old engine looms replacement looks the dog's danglies 😎
  5. New dei wrapped custom engine loom should be here this week from jtinovations . Got new thermal inlet manifold spacer "O" rings ,icv and throttle body gasket on their way. I had to use a tighter 90° banjo fitting to clear the clocked coldside of the turbo and although the general opinion is that it won't restrict flow, I decided to buy another "racingline " banjo fitting for other bank rail to insure the flow is the same. So that's on it's way too . I've been running the 565cc nissmo injectors since the engine had been run in (46k ago) so seeing as the rest of the fuel system is being renewed, I've sent the injectors off to Clive attowe tuining to get cleaned / flow matched . Had to admit defeat with the trailing arms and lateral links bushes ,as it's taking far to long to remove the old bushes with the tools I have to hand .So I decided to just get the inlet manifold, injector caps and cusco H brace powdercoated for now and leave the rear end for another time. Dropped the stuff off monday afternoon and it was done by Friday 😎 can't fault "Suffolk stove enamelers" for the job they've done for me , will definitely be using them again 😊 Hopefully I'll grab some new bolts for the inlet manifold and be able to start putting her back together at the weekend 🤞
  6. Not sure if the sti strutts are red ,you might have pedders replacements but either way you're probably better off finding out what shocks you have and matching springs to suit their dampening rates . Aftermarket arb definitely helps with body roll especially if you get a adjustable one . Rear camber bolts are also a good cheap addition if you're going to lower or get a 4 wheel alignment done, as gives whoever does the geo a better chance to set car up to your driving style /needs . I've got mostly whiteline stuff on the v1sti as it's relatively cheap and does the job , only thing I'd say is whiteline stuff doesn't tend to stay rust free and after a few yrs , the paint tends to crack . Unsure if elbaich ,cdf,perrin ECT last any better In our salty winters though tbh .
  7. Just be carefull as the left bank cams are under pressure due to the cam lobe position at the timing Mark , so as you release the belt they'll spin . You can only turn them in 1 direction to 're align them when refitting the belt , or intake and exhaust valves will make contact (possibly damaging the valves) I'll see if I can find a pic to show you what I mean ,bud
  8. What's the plan Was it knocking or just running rough ? If it wasn't knocking are you just gonna Correct the timing and do a compression test to check for damage? Buy a Sealy avcs pulley locking tool , for the sake of £20 it saves a lot of hassle 😉
  9. I always speak to Alyn at asperformance when buying performance brake parts , he won't just sell you the most expensive stuff .Make sure you phone him and speak to him as He's always taken the time to talk through my needs and budget . (Plus his website doesn't list much of his stock) I currently can't fault my current set up for my v1sti, dba discs and performance friction carbon pads with phantom lines . Good cold bite ,low dust and excellent stopping power .
  10. Is it running the standard tdo4 turbo ? If so that's probably your limiting factor , as they tend to max at 290hp . Depending on condition of the engine and drivetrain, 330hp is about the safe limit for a newage wrx engine n box
  11. When you say plug it in , was that a code reader That said low charging system voltage ? Could try cleaning alternator plug and engine /battery earths. Could be a faulty alternator due to working too hard trying to charge the old knackered battery. Halfords do a free battery alternator check , might be worth a go to rule it out .
  12. Tbh I wish I'd have got the inlet powdercoated instead of painting it myself 3yrs ago but I was getting quotes of £120 + just for the inlet and I got everything done for £80 . Couldn't tell you if the h brace makes any difference as , although I bought it for £20 about 5 yrs ago ,it's just been sat in the scooby scraps shed till now 😂 Seeing as I recently bought a whiteline anti lift kit and superpro front wishbone bushes, I thought I'd dust it off , get it powdercoated and fit it while the wishbones are off 😉 I've got whiteline arbs ,roll center correction kit and rear droplinks but the rear droplinks are the "pigtail type" and look more like (rusty) twiglets atm . So I'll be buying some solid c shape droplinks , new rear bushes and getting some other stuff powdercoated on the back end at a later stage .
  13. Could try to release the outter cable tie jublie clip on each steering rack boot , to see if the boot is filling with p.s fluid . The boots should have grease in them but not fluid , unless the rack seals have gone . Just make sure you've got suitable cable ties or that you can reuse the jubliee clips when refitting. If there's no fluid in the boots then I'd say you have a leak and to check pump, reservoir , both pump and rack ends of the pipework and the rack itself . Best of luck
  14. No probs mate, always happy to help and share what I've learned along the way 👍 Just bear in mind that hatch onwards have "push type" clutches, so if you buy a hatch 5 speed you'll have to find out if they're compatable with "pull type" clutches. Think v5 onwards have ty54's but I'd say buy as new as you can afford /find , after all v5 is over 20 yrs old too . Personally I always replace both driveshaft and prop seals ,when fitting a second hand box .as the seals only cost about £20 from icp and are easy to change while the box is out . Try someone like Matt at mbdevelopments on f.b ,for a 5 speed box with the same ratio as your existing 4 speed . Feel free to tag or pm me if you're stuck , fella