savage bulldogs

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savage bulldogs last won the day on October 17

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About savage bulldogs

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  • Location:
    east anglia
  • Subaru Model
    v1 sti (money pit)

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  1. Is the engine from the same model /year / country ? As they're is a few differences in cam pulley types and between uk and jdm and different "versions" Could try removing the cam sensor and looking at the back of the pulleys for the timing pick up Mark's, then comparing the Mark's on the original engine pulleys. I'm fairly up to spec on classics and know they have less pick up points on the crank sprocket than newage. Also sure I read that some uk and jdm swaps on newage require the cam and crank sensor pins need to be swapped around but I only think I read that about pin swapping, don't know for sure
  2. The ECU needs a speed input so if the mechanical speedo drive isn't working , the clocks won't be able to send a signal to the ECU (hence limp mode) . Normally it's the "R" clip that fails that holds the top and bottom sections of the cable together but if you're sure it's the bottom connection to the gearbox speed sensor that's failed , either Alyn at Asperformance or luke at import car parts will probably have the lower speedo cable in stock πŸ˜‰
  3. Nice to meet @Falcongary today and nice to know my trusty apexi f.c and 555 nismos have gone to a good home ,too😎 Chucked the interior of the car back together and took it for a little drive today , as Martyn had set the ECU up with high long term fuel trims and set a few safeguards up (soft cut for afr , turned boost off ) afr was surprisingly good for a 30 min remote tweek at part throttle but when under load (up hill) I could see the afr was out a bit . So drove around the block , back up the same hill and the afr was better . So well impressed with the way Martyn has set up the safeguards and long term fuel trim gains . Also means I'm more confident driving it all the way to Plymouth . not looking forward to a 2am wake up on Wednesday or the 300 mile journey from Suffolk πŸ˜₯ But I'm definitely looking forward to meeting Martyn ,shaking his hand (well covidly safe rubbing elbows lol) and the 300 mile journey home with (hopefully) more ponies ,anti lag and launch control 😎🀞
  4. Removed the 555cc nismos ,fitted the 740cc nismos and updated the map on the linkg4x with the 740cc deadtimes. Started and run ok but a bit rich with hunting idle . I've learned a fair bit lately about fuelling and lambda targets, so think I could probably get the afr closer myself . Unfortunately, I don't know enough about idle control or enrichment tables to create a base map that's close enough to just need a slight fuelling tweek 😏 I'm sure I'll continue to learn and maybe one day have the experience to adjust everything on the link but for now a quick call to Martyn at enginetuner.... after downloading a remote app and about 20 mins of his time online she was idling smoothly 😎. Then a 15 minute drive around the block and he'd remotely tweeked a off boost map in nicely πŸ€“πŸ˜Š So impressed with his work that I've booked in next Wednesday for a full map by Martyn, not looking forward to the 300mile off boost trip to Plymouth but I an looking forward to the 300 mile journey on the way home 😊 So injectors and apexi f.c are out and ready to be collected when you are @Falcongary πŸ˜‰
  5. @Falcongary pm'd about apexi and 555cc nismos 😊 Guess I'd better get out there in the cold πŸ˜₯ and get your stuff outta my car πŸ˜ŠπŸ˜‰
  6. Linkg4x finally fitted 😎 Ait sensor, link 3 bar map sensor ,tps and canbus connection for my aem x wideband all fitted , set up in the menus and calibrated. Maf removed and ram air filter fitted ,along with oe 3 port boost solenoid reconnected. Still got to remove the avcr sensors and apexi map sensor but they're no longer connected . Started off just starting it on the linkg4x base map , it ran with a low pig rich idle but revved cleanly to 3k . Added the rough 555cc nismo dead times I found on the net .... Ran much closer to target afr's and still revs cleanly but does hunt a bit on idle . I've just added the bigger 740cc nismo dead times to the main fuel settings and will fit the bigger injectors before I start it up again πŸ˜‰ @Falcongary Ive been reading up and watching a lot of vids for a few years , as I've always been interested in mapping . Tbh it's starting to sink in now I'm actually changing settings and seeing the difference it makes to afr and general running . As for the apexi f.c , I offered it to you first fella and was intending on p.m'ing you now its removed . Did you just want the apexi f.c , map lead add on lead , map sensor and hand controller? Or the 555cc nismo injectors as well , to bring the current map on the apexi f.c in closer to your mods (save some mapping time) . Either way most of its removed and I'm hoping the rest will be out tomorrow , if its dry 🀞
  7. Spent a bit of time trying to figure out the best position to fit the ait sensor πŸ€” My Frankenstein inlet was originally from a early ra and has the 5th injector port blanked off but it's now not just after the throttle body .Due the the throttle body being on the reverse side of the inlet manifold πŸ™„ I also think that it would suffer from heatsoak and give false readings fitted directly into the ally inlet πŸ˜‰ Just before the throttle body would be ideal but its directly above my "unguarded " auxiliary belt, I've never had a auxiliary belt fail before but was worried if it did fail it would hit the ait sensor and "send it " into the inlet manifold. Other option was above the dump valve but that's a bit too close to the rad and might suffer from heatsoak too 😏 Eventually I settled on notching the fmic to throttle body joiner , so I could fit the ait sensor close to the throttle body but it not being above the belt πŸ˜‰ After taking a list of pins and wire colours I sleeved the expansion board and canbus wires . Unwired the hako interface (for connecting to the apexi f.c) from the wideband and ecu . As it's the first time I've fitted and set up a linkg4x ECU I didn't want to totally remove the apexi f.c yet , just in case I cant get it running well enough for the 60 mile trip to the mappers 🀞 So wideband canbus connected to the ECU canbus pigtail and ait sensor connected to ECU temp 3 /sensor ground pins on the expansion board I don't want race car looking "missile" switches with red covers and would much prefer a more stealthy look . So I'm currently waiting for a couple of classic oe foglamp switches with plugs to turn up . So I've run some wire from expansion loom digital input connections to the dash , ready n waiting for anti lag n launch 😊 So hopefully I'll plumb the link 3 bar map sensor in , plug the linkg4x in , set up map , ait and switches in the menus . Then see how it starts and runs before fitting the bigger 740cc nismos, as the original v1 sti map would only have 380cc injectors. If it runs ok 🀞🀞 then I'll fit the 740cc's enter the latency in the injector set up and try again
  8. Hi n welcome to s.o.c. As above , ecutek software can be used to remap the standard ECU on yours . There's a fair few reputable tuners that use Ecutek, local isn't always the best option. So once you've found a few in your area give them a google ,to find some reviews from previous customers before handing over your pride n joy and hard earned πŸ˜‰
  9. Hi n welcome to s.o.c Dan . Fell free to join in on any of the threads , start your own thread or post some pics of your 2 scoobs πŸ‘ We like pics 😊
  10. Did a bit more prep by extending the air intake temp sensor wires , so they reach all the way to the ECU. Big thanks to @Jay762 for sending me some of these heat shrink wire joiners , never knew they existed πŸ‘ So much eaiser just using my trusty zippo , rather than firing up the soldering iron 😎 I'll slip heat shrink some bigger dia tubing over the join too before working out a route through the bay to the ECU. I'm currently running the apexi f.c map lead add on and 1.7 bar v3 onwards map sensor but the oe 1.2 bar map sensor is still plugged into the harness . Seeing as the linkg4x will be running mafless and rely on the map sensor for fuelling calculations, instead of a maf sensor. I bought a brand new link 3 bar map sensor , then used the original v1/V2 map sensor plug and pigtail wires to connect it to the oe loom . 1.2 bar map sensor wires cut and new pins fitted . It will now just plug n play into the oe loom 😎 Well hopefully πŸ€” I'll just need to select the link 3 bar map sensor in the map sensor menus and check its calibrated with the linkg4x internal bap sensor πŸ€“ Mot booked in for Wednesday, hope the forecast is good next weekend 🀞
  11. I run mine in the standard v3 onwards o2 sensor bung , as that position isn't used on the v1/v2. There was a spec sheet in my aem x wideband box that tells you where it's best to fit it . Unfortunately I threw it away but sure it said at least 18" from turbo outlet and slightly higher than horizontal. Mine has been fitted closer than 18" for about 4 years without issue but it makes sense to fit the sensor at a angle that wont let moisture pool in the sensor .So definitely fit it at a horizontal or higher angle πŸ˜‰
  12. Hi n welcome, I personally think it looks much better now , nice work πŸ‘ As Jay said, feel free to start a build thread to log your progress
  13. With everything now here , I was ready to get stuck in with the link g4x ECU install 😎 But its raining all this weekend and the mot is due at the end of the month . so I need to get the mot done before fitting the ECU and bigger injectors . As I doubt I'd get it all fitted and mapped to correct the afr for a emissions pass 😏 I still found something scooby to do in the dry ,thanks to Martyn at enginetuner sending me the canbus and expansion board header connections with pigtails Old stock ECU board removed and linkg4x fitted with pigtails plugged in . Although you can wire the wideband in via the expansion board ,Its recommended to use canbus . As it lessens ground loop , which can cause interference and slow or incorrect readings sent to the ECU. This also frees up a input on the expansion board connection too ,which will be needed for ait sensor , map and anti lag switches πŸ˜‰ Due to it fitting into a stock ECU case you need to cut a slot into the case to pass the canbus and expansion wires through ,along with the p.c link connector. I chose to notch a corner of the top case ,as it suits the natural bend of the pigtails. I'll be spending the rest of sunday afternoon sitting at the trusty kitchen table tagging wires and creating a pin list for wiring in the aem x wideband, ait sensor, link 3 bar map sensor and di switches . Although I'm gutted it's not fitted yet ,at least once I'm ready to fit it , it should make the installation easier having the prep work done beforehand.
  14. Did think about fitting the 740cc's before I have everything for the install but , I don't want the scoob off the road for too long as I'm still enjoying driving it. After trawling the net and watching hpa /link tuning videos till my eyes hurt πŸ€“ I finally think I know how to set the 740cc injector latency , wire in and calibrate the aem wideband , air sensor and link 3 bar map sensor 😎 I'm far from capable of mapping a ECU but the link g4x software seems quite user friendly . So hopefully once it's all wired in and calibrated , i should be able to tweek the base map enough to make it run well enough to drive the 60 miles to Attowes for him to map it 🀞 I bought the ECU from Martyn Jeffries at enginetuner, as he spent loads of his time talking me through the link g4x set up . I now have a spare ECU case to fit the linkg4x plugin ECU into and I'm just waiting on some expansion board plugs, pins and wires to turn up . So hopefully I can finally make a start on the installation at the weekend 😊
  15. Making some good progress, chap πŸ‘ Although I can weld to iso standard , when my old v3 uk turbo rear strutt towers and arches disintegrated . I just scrapped it and bought a clean import shell 🀐 So unfortunately cant offer any first hand advice but have read that cutting the strut tower from the inside , helps with access πŸ‘