savage bulldogs

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savage bulldogs last won the day on December 30 2019

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About savage bulldogs

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  • Location:
    east anglia
  • Subaru Model
    v1 sti (money pit)

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  1. Gutted the original builders seem to have washed their hands of any liability, hopefully the garage you bought it off will help with the cost . After all you only did just under 1k miles before you noticed it was fubared . Best of luck ,bud
  2. Doesn't look as bad as some I've seen, on my old v3uk the rear strutt tops and bumper mounts had almost completely disappeared 😥 Pull the boot linings out and check the rear arch "wheel wells" and seams around the rear strutt tops , if you haven't already done so stu .
  3. No problem bud , I'm always happy to recommend companies that take the time to talk to their customers and give good customer service/product advice 👍
  4. Good stuff , always nice to see one being saved 😎
  5. Think your better off sticking with standard size discs and just buy a better quality brand if you want to upgrade the stopping power on the same sized caliper. As far as I remember standard 4 pot subaru fronts are 296mm standard brembo fronts are 330mm . Theres a lot of differences on the rears ,at least 4 types fitted to classics alone . Glad Alyn could help , he's one of the few aftermarket part suppliers that will take the time to run you through options. As most just want to sell you the most expensive and overkill type of parts , no matter what you use the car for or what sort of budget you have . Alyn would know what size any impreza has too 😉
  6. I use Alyn at Asperformance for my brake stuff , he's a very knowledgeable fella who finds the time to discuss whatever your budget and needs are 😉 Definitely worth a ring before you buy elsewhere imo
  7. Well after a very merry pi55mess and a happy new beer , I've finally realized that there's only a couple of months till show season starts 😲 So i thought although the scoobs still hibernating I'd waken the never ending build thread too 😉 I finished cleaning the v4sti heads , to a standard that the wife will allow them into her kitchen 😋. Covered the trusty dinner (engine building) table and started off by checking the current valve clearances. Happy to find that they're all within factory spec, I made a start on the right hand head inlet valves . Unfortunately, I didn't manage to achieve a great deal and only removed the right hand intake cam , retainers, collets, springs and valves .😏 But I did check the valve and valve seats over and although they're also within factory spec , I did re seat them by lapping them . So not too much progress but hopefully tomorrow I'll do the same to the exhaust side and at least I'll have one of the heads ready for pat (my trusty engineer) to pressure test and skim 😊 Few pics of Saturdays lunchtime preparation and me "lapping " up some tasty v4sti heads for lunch 🙄😂
  8. There's not much difference between a v1 and v2 , as they both run a phase 1 set up . So engine loom plugs (bay ) , interior loom plugs (ecu) inlet manifold/fuel rails and auxiliaries are the same .(straight swap) Afaik the only things that might differ would be the speed sensor in the gearbox (if the v2 has a electrical speed sensor) And the power steering pump or lines , I've not checked the dimensions but they can look visually different (square or circular reservoir) , the pump and pipes could be the same though 😉
  9. What year /model is it ? Think the classics tend to run safer than newage, with a few minor mods . As my v3 UK ran fine with a sports cat and cat back for 10k or so , until I got it mapped . But you can never be 100% sure what's going on with un mapped mods, until its dyno health checked . If you need a new cat and want to buy a aftermarket sports cat ,as its probably cheaper than a new subaru one ? Then I'd say fit the sports cat and get a dyno health check asap . If you want to just fit a sports cat to get "gains" I'd say buy it and wait to fit it until you have the money to get it mapped in . As although the ECU will adjust the map a little bit (learn) it won't add timing and change fuelling for more power . It will Just add fuel (drown power) and pull timing to lessen the chance of knock /detonation, to "try" and stop the engine eating itself if it detects something dangerous and outside the oe map parameters.
  10. Hi n welcome, nice looking fozzy 😎 Any plans for it or just maintain and enjoy ?
  11. No bud not at all , it was sold as a car with a £12k built engine . I was just pointing out that even if it was built for a employee ,you'd expect at least a minimum level of skill to be used by tuning company engine builders . I'm a self employed plasterer that apparently builds to a better standard on the wifes kitchen table 🤐 . Will be interesting to see what they have to say about it, though .
  12. Tbh I didn't think you'd have shared the findings on here before showing them , just wondered what they had to say about this apparently thrown together "built" engine . I understand if it was built in house for a employee, that you might use what's to hand but most of the faults are from bad engine machine and build practices. Not from re used measured ,checked and cleaned second hand parts . I also understand that if you work on a lot of cars that the law of averages will mean you'd have a chance of having more unhappy customers (ratio) . As performance cars get pushed and parts can fail but imo the workmanship/labour should always be on point in any service/ business. Best of luck with it, Jay .
  13. Echo as above but I wouldn't turn the engine over with the crank sensor unplugged to pump out the old oil . This might cause the bearings to run dry and damage other internal parts. Think the removal of the crank sensor plug ,once refilled with oil is to insure the oil filter and oil pump are primed before start up . If your thinking about changing the fuel filter too , maybe just let it idle and pull the fuel pump fuse . This will eventually cause the engine to stall ,empty the fuel line pressure (allowing fuel filter fitting eaiser) . It will also mean the engine will turn over but not start ,to prime the new oil in the system before refitting fuse on 1st start up 😉
  14. Gutted for you jay , I dare say you were sold the car with the understanding it had a strong built engine. I've only built 5 or so boxer lumps but those machine faces , honing angles and sleeve fitments are shocking. With only 6k on the engine (if it was built right first time) it should only just be run in ,not needing a rebuild 🤔 With the same parts list in the block ,I find it difficult to believe that it's been replaced ,especially as the block has sleeves (badly) fitted with probably a cheap diy "ball hone" at the wrong angle 🙁 Looks like they threw a few high spec parts in a block just to keep their driver happy and didn't do a clean high £12k spec build after all 🙁 Have you sent s.c a copy of the teardown report and if so have they replied yet ?
  15. Tbh I only just re read the beginning once you posted and had forgotten who supposedly built the block in the first place . Looking at the tear down results thread , Seems like it's the same spec block ,with the same parts and with sleeves fitted 🤔 Think this thread is more about the new build he's going to have to do and not what he's inherited from the previous owner /builder .