Hi, front window winder motors us.

[Mike.]

Hi both front window winder motors packed in. Can I swap from the rears, or are they easy/cheap to get? Ta, Mike.

[Mr B]

I shouldn't really tell you this as it trade secrets 🙂
Drivers and passengers window an easy fix and common failure due to water ingress in front motor due to clocked housing position caused by introduction of crash bars in the front doors, never buy a new motor as original crazy money and aftermarket useless junk, buy a used passenger side  rear as they same front drivers side and rear drivers same as front passenger side besides a water drain fittings needs clocking position changed and original harness tails swapped over ideally but rear tails will work and worth using if connectors or harness better condition (plugs in to motor assembly in weather sealed connector so cab be swapped) they about £20-£30 for tidy rear ones and rears- 1: don't get used much and 2: don't get water ingress in motor like on front doors as motor sits upside down in passenger rear .
You can improve motor drainage for front mounted motors by removing motor housing alloy cup (practise on an old motor first) and making 2 small weep holes (0ne towards front and one towards rear) and add couple drops lube in bearing points. Put plenty grease around drive gear .
You can pull just motors off front doors by just removing the #3 philips screws, you will need very nice fitting 1/4" bits (don't want camming out) and a bit ratchet or 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/4" socket to hold the bit which works nice as gives ratchet right amount standoff, working blind mainly but if you pick up used motors first you see fixing points that make it more obvious how proceed with job & can test fir your #3 bits for perfect fit and good bite plus will have spare screws probably better condition  than your fronts .

These should do the job > (late SF has same plastic moulded and stamped metal butyl sealed cover motors as SG, even earlier motors actually better made with cast alloy housing and pressed metal cover with screw point  flange and proper rubber gasket)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-98-02-Passengers-Left-Rear-Window-Regulator-2-Pins/183892236473
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-98-02-Drivers-Right-Rear-Window-Regulator-2-Pins/183892237422

[Jon F]

Hi 

Wow I just came across this - amazing! I have already got a front mechanism and motor off an '04 SF to replace my broken drivers window motor. Are you saying we don't need to remove the metal inner door panel to swap it out? Wanna do it for me ;)?

[Mr B]

Yes, if you look at your used assembly for reference you see motor attached by three #3 JIC cross head machine screws .
Undo those with care and tips from main post and job jobbed in no time  .
Take care with the door trim card and the moisture sheet and butyl adhesive . some people make a pigs ear of it and looks like a wild bear or hypo child has vandalised it ...
I would of advised  against getting used drivers as they likely well used and have some water ingress in motor, back door motors or earlier cast alloy motors are best used buy .
the early cast alloy motors with bolt flange pressed steel cover seem faultless, we hardly ever touch them, most 25 year old vehicles have originals and seem likely good for 30 years plus . switches are way more durable on early models too .
Well quite a lot was better and it really shows up when compare the parts and compare common jobs we do across model generations .
 Quite simply the newer the car gets the more trips it makes to the garage and the owners credit card needs a better limit 🙂

[SF5Fozzi]

On 1/10/2021 at 10:16 PM, Mr B said:

I shouldn't really tell you this as it trade secrets 🙂
Drivers and passengers window an easy fix and common failure due to water ingress in front motor due to clocked housing position caused by introduction of crash bars in the front doors, never buy a new motor as original crazy money and aftermarket useless junk, buy a used passenger side  rear as they same front drivers side and rear drivers same as front passenger side besides a water drain fittings needs clocking position changed and original harness tails swapped over ideally but rear tails will work and worth using if connectors or harness better condition (plugs in to motor assembly in weather sealed connector so cab be swapped) they about £20-£30 for tidy rear ones and rears- 1: don't get used much and 2: don't get water ingress in motor like on front doors as motor sits upside down in passenger rear .
You can improve motor drainage for front mounted motors by removing motor housing alloy cup (practise on an old motor first) and making 2 small weep holes (0ne towards front and one towards rear) and add couple drops lube in bearing points. Put plenty grease around drive gear .
You can pull just motors off front doors by just removing the #3 philips screws, you will need very nice fitting 1/4" bits (don't want camming out) and a bit ratchet or 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/4" socket to hold the bit which works nice as gives ratchet right amount standoff, working blind mainly but if you pick up used motors first you see fixing points that make it more obvious how proceed with job & can test fir your #3 bits for perfect fit and good bite plus will have spare screws probably better condition  than your fronts .

These should do the job > (late SF has same plastic moulded and stamped metal butyl sealed cover motors as SG, even earlier motors actually better made with cast alloy housing and pressed metal cover with screw point  flange and proper rubber gasket)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-98-02-Passengers-Left-Rear-Window-Regulator-2-Pins/183892236473
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-98-02-Drivers-Right-Rear-Window-Regulator-2-Pins/183892237422

Spot on.