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SF5Fozzi

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SF5Fozzi last won the day on March 30

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About SF5Fozzi

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location:
    Gloucestershire
  • Subaru Model
    Forester

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  1. The sf5 Forester's suspension is what I would call(in standard form) 'very much boat like'. Swapping to a kit with stiffer springs would be a good start, like pedders suspension, they do a straight swap standard height kit that's quite good. Then a thicker rear arb fitted from a gc8 impreza would be better because the oem is really quite thin. Oem brakes don't stop very well either.
  2. If you want the geometry correct with a forester that's as low or lower than an impreza, then you'll need to swap the trailing arm brackets to gc8, rear roll bar brackets to gc8, rear gc8 sti pink arm kit, gc8 propshaft bearing housing, gc8 gearbox cradle, gc8 front subframe u bolts with subframe spacers removed, gc8 gear lever assembly, gc8 intercooler undertray, gc8 roll centre kit, plus other odds n sods Iv probably forgotten about. I think Iv got the part number for the whiteline roll bar I got I look for u tomorrow πŸ‘πŸ»
  3. The later impreza gc8 rear subframes fit. You'll just have to make sure to get the forester arms because they are longer than impreza arms because of the suspensions ride height on the forester's being taller. im running everything impreza gc8 on mine because it's so low. I just noticed your on about trailing arms. Impreza trailing arms fit as it's the bracket that's different between the forester & impreza.πŸ‘πŸ»
  4. Hi. How was it disconnected? was the wires de-pinned from the plastic connector? what colour wires have you got coming from the motor to re-connect?
  5. I might have a vf23 from a 22b. For the right price, Obviously! πŸ‘πŸ»
  6. I agree about the h&s systems. H&S afterburner vortex back box is what I have, sounds good (I think anyway. My neighbours might not think so though!) Not sure about the scoop situation though. if you can't find one then you could make 1 up. Mine did not fit, because at the time there wasn't one for an sf5, so I made it fit. I cut the bottom off & re-fibre glass'd the bottom area shape, so I could fit it to my bonnet. Reusing the oem slider bolt things. So it bolts straight on like oem.
  7. Hi. How did you wire it up? Usually, one would purchase a turbo timer loom specific to your cars make and model. πŸ‘πŸ»
  8. You've undone the 2x bolts that hold the top of the gearbox, the pitch stop ? The engine is hanging correctly & should be on a suitable engine hoist ? & the mounts are good? If that's a yes to all, then you should just be able to give it a wiggle n' push with your hands and it'll go in smoothly both sides as you lower it. No crowbar normally is needed.
  9. I would say, the primary concern here is the steering knuckle fouling the downpipe issue. Iv experienced that sort of fouling problem when using cheapo brands. Your either gonna 1. have to marker Pen the area that touches, then take off the pipe and smack it with a hammer & put it back on & keep doing that till it clears, but you risk bending pipe. And it's a load of effort. Or 2. get a quality branded pipe that fits correctly out of the box. Then the running lean issue would be the next issue to sort out. πŸ€”I would just get a new oem sensor with a new quality br
  10. I presume the blanking plate has been put in the turbo inlet pipe?, With the valve's recirculating rubber hose now acting as a vta?. If that's what you've done then u can't vta with a maf, it has to be speed density tuned.πŸ‘πŸ»
  11. Hmmm, surely, for the price u would pay for a decent set of golds, u could get them black 1's refurbished back to gold for cheaper maybe?
  12. Long shot...., but try this out. Make sure you got voltage in the battery. Then disconnect the wires at the alternator. Try starting it. If it starts then the alternator's bad. Sometimes the alternator can appear to be operating properly but it can send a disruptive signal to the camshaft sensors that can cause a no start issue. Worth a tryπŸ€”
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