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P1710 code (Turbine Speed Sensor 2 failure) on Exiga GT


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Not much info on the internet with regards to the dreaded P1710 code failure (on our Exiga cars), which is linked to Turbine Speed Sensor 2.. My 2008 Exiga GT had this issue a few months ago.



- Massive lunge/crunch when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear - like another car has rear ended you.. 

- CEL coming on

- Red ATOil (high temp) light coming on


The Sensor 2 issue seems to be a common occurrence across the Subaru range from this time.. Legacy/Forester forums refer to this quite abit. I can confirm that the same applies to our Exiga cars.

The part can be purchased quite easily from Ebay/Amazon but the labour required to fit will cost much more unless you can do it yourself. There is no part number as the sensor needs to be spliced into the harness on top of the valve body. simply search for "Subaru Turbine Speed Sensor 2". the sensor sits on top of the valve body so it needs to be removed from the car before replacing and soldering into place.

I've just had my sensor replaced by a competent local mechanic and I can confirm it 100% fixes the issue (thank god 😀 )

pics provided by the garage that did the work.








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  • 6 months later...

Ah yes I had the same problem as that on my 2008 Exiga, I bought the sensor from eBay (after ages of searching) and managed to fit it myself. It fixed the problem but now I have "AT temp" light flashing non stop, even on cold start. I tried resetting the TCU and also cleared the old fault code (which no longer shows after 2 years). Maybe I got some oil inside the connection inside the sump where the valve body is, and it is shorting somehow. Any ideas how to fix this?


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  • 8 months later...

Hi, i drove mine for a week with the car slamming into 2nd/3rd gear, i found it wasnt quite as bad if you go into semi auto, and use those gears as little as possible, but i imagine it wont take long to cause damage since the impact is so hard, but you can get yourself home for sure, no need to sit broken down somewhere, just replace the sensor, its not too bad once you get the valve body out. Did mine on the road outside which isnt ideal but its possible. Drain out the gearbox oil from the AT sump. Then there are around 20 bolts to remove, be fairly gentle with them, you need some gasket sealant, gearbox oil, the sensor with 3 cables attached, then you need to cut the wires from the original sensor, leave enough wire so its easy to connect up to the new one, they need to be soldered, then put shrink wrap around for electrical cables, you can buy the wire shrink wraps and you need a heat gun to shrink those on. The sensor itself is only held in by a bolt,  just be very careful handling the valve body, you want to take that inside and lay it on a towel. The hard part is taking out the correct bolts. The correct bolts on the valve body have a number 8 i think on them. The ones to leave alone have an infinity symbol on them. 
as you take out the bolts lay them down on some cardboard in the pattern they came out. 
when putting the valve body back in, it is quite heavy from underneath, hold it up with your forearm while you put bolts back in. Make sure cables are tidy. 
the outer pan needs old mastic removed or smoothed right down. 
then put a bead of fresh mastic all the way around and bolt that back in. 

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