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Subaru Flat Battery Syndrome (SFBS)


norfolkRX
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SFBS, and Yes, I'm another 'victim' of Subaru's poorly designed electrical system. I got a "you want to go somewhere, well not today Mate" from the car this morning. The Battery was showing only 4 volts and Yes, it was partly my fault for leaving an interior light on, but come on, should a car with so much electrical equipment & stop/start be fitted with only a 65Ahr Battery as standard?

And given the car has so many safety systems on it that protect the driver from themselves, why use an incandescent bulb for the interior light (which might be left on by accident) when a low power LED would have been more suitable. This circuit should be timed to be switched off sometime after shutdown - I can't see any reason why the interior light would want to be left on in a locked car (other than by accident).

On the binnacle on top of the dashboard it is possible to display some useful info like Water Temperature, Oil Temperature and Average Speed . . . . Average Speed!! really? how useful is that, why not a Voltmeter given the car has so much electrical/electronic stuff on it??

Anyway I'm going to fit a voltmeter in one of the redundant cup holders (I don't drink and drive) in the centre consol - it will be powered from the nearby accessory socket. I've checked that power is removed from this when the car is switched off.

While I'm on the subject of electrics, why can't you default off the stop/start system?

Rant over . . . . 'til the next time . . .  😉

 

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Well, I fitted the Voltmeter which I got from:-

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorgeri-Universal-Voltmeter-Voltage-BX100007/dp/B08CNFBPMG/ref=asc_df_B08CNFBPMG/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499298107818&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18332633606580583942&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045081&hvtargid=pla-1004357903227&psc=1

other Voltmeters are available . . .

It turned out to be a neater installation than I had expected and more importantly - less work! The supplied bracket can be screwed to the centre cup divider, leaving the other cup holder still usable. The whole installation is easily removable and the only damage from standard is two small holes in the centre divider.

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You can also check on the Battery status/charging- volt level - if you go into the 'hidden'  dealership and/or factory settings mode on the infotainment system.  Press and hold the 'home' button while simultaneously pressing the tune button 4 or 6 times - then toggle through menu to find charging value in volts. 

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44 minutes ago, Justin Time said:

You can also check on the battery status/charging- volt level - if you go into the 'hidden'  dealership and/or factory settings mode on the infotainment system.  Press and hold the 'home' button while simultaneously pressing the tune button 4 or 6 times - then toggle through menu to find charging value in volts. 

Yes, I found some of your previous posts on this - thanks.

I'm not sure how useful the setting is as it only says it's charging (14.3V) or not (12V) - but not Battery health other than by implication. It's much like my voltmeter, except my old school solution doesn't need setting up each time and is visible all the time.

An ammeter across the Battery terminals would be useful for checking the level of parasitic currents that are usually present and if anything else is adding to them.

At the moment I'm looking at replacing lights, that might get left on by accident, with LEDs.

The dealer I bought the car from did actually warn me not to leave the car unlocked or the doors or hatch open without having the engine on - this was a first for me!!

Do you know if setting the key fob to sleep also reduces how often the alarm system is looking for the fob and therefore reduces the drain on the car Battery?

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9 hours ago, norfolkRX said:

Yes, I found some of your previous posts on this - thanks.

I'm not sure how useful the setting is as it only says it's charging (14.3V) or not (12V) - but not battery health other than by implication. It's much like my voltmeter, except my old school solution doesn't need setting up each time and is visible all the time.

An ammeter across the battery terminals would be useful for checking the level of parasitic currents that are usually present and if anything else is adding to them.

At the moment I'm looking at replacing lights, that might get left on by accident, with LEDs.

The dealer I bought the car from did actually warn me not to leave the car unlocked or the doors or hatch open without having the engine on - this was a first for me!!

Do you know if setting the key fob to sleep also reduces how often the alarm system is looking for the fob and therefore reduces the drain on the car battery?

Re the fob, I'm not sure if the system is searching for it or not, but along with other precautions (karabiner on boot locking mechanism when the engine is off and boot open long-term; driving with side-lights on constantly, etc.) I do habitually put the fob 'to sleep' just in case, and of course I avoid too many short trips whenever possible. I had to replace the fob Battery recently, but received plenty of warnings from the system.  The fob would have been 3 years old. 

I'm still running on the original Battery (tempting fate saying that or what!) and as the car's MY was 2019, and I guess it stood in a parking lot over lockdown for the best part of a year, those are other factors re Battery health. 

I completely agree that it's ridiculous in the 21 Century that a car with supposedly robust features has this major achilles heel.  Over the last couple of decades my previous vehicles were all Skodas, and all had the original Battery up until the time I sold them, at about 5 years of age - no issues. 

Final consideration.  The Outback has an automatic software updates system where it searches out home wi-fi.  I made sure that was always turned off too, just in case it's running when the vehicle is supposedly switched off.

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2 hours ago, Justin Time said:

Re the fob, I'm not sure if the system is searching for it or not, but along with other precautions (karabiner on boot locking mechanism when the engine is off and boot open long-term; driving with side-lights on constantly, etc.) I do habitually put the fob 'to sleep' just in case, and of course I avoid too many short trips whenever possible. I had to replace the fob battery recently, but received plenty of warnings from the system.  The fob would have been 3 years old. 

I'm still running on the original battery (tempting fate saying that or what!) and as the car's MY was 2019, and I guess it stood in a parking lot over lockdown for the best part of a year, those are other factors re battery health. 

I completely agree that it's ridiculous in the 21 Century that a car with supposedly robust features has this major achilles heel.  Over the last couple of decades my previous vehicles were all Skodas, and all had the original battery up until the time I sold them, at about 5 years of age - no issues. 

Final consideration.  The Outback has an automatic software updates system where it searches out home wi-fi.  I made sure that was always turned off too, just in case it's running when the vehicle is supposedly switched off.

My Impreza is registered Dec 2019 but the Dealer mode says:

Product Information: Subaru-Gen3-Mid-EU-MY2017-REVA

and I thought it was a Gen 5 MY2019??  Presumably it was on holiday for a couple of years in one of those huge car parks in the Midlands. Maybe they disconnect the Battery?

Mine too has the original Panasonic stop/start Battery and the jury is out on it's condition. The previous owner had the car for 3 years and only did 2100 miles total - makes you wonder if they had issues too, with it being used so little.

I'm fairly sure Updates is Off because I'd heard of people having problems with it.

 

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lots of lowest cost sourced electronics and very little sensible gumption engineering thought is all you get for your money these days, newer the car the more garbage you got  .
amazing how they meant be good for environment yet you got drive the long way or you be waiting for the RAC van and contributing far more to waste with short life batteries and components 🙂.
Like I keep saying, only thing newer vehicles good at is emptying owners savings accounts ...

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3 hours ago, Mr B said:

lots of lowest cost sourced electronics and very little sensible gumption engineering thought is all you get for your money these days, newer the car the more garbage you got  .
amazing how they meant be good for environment yet you got drive the long way or you be waiting for the RAC van and contributing far more to waste with short life batteries and components 🙂.
Like I keep saying, only thing newer vehicles good at is emptying owners savings accounts ...

You are not wrong there, but as an engineer (mechanical), I would be completely lost without problems to solve 😉

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A selection of the LED replacements for the interior bulbs - the festoon bulbs were a bit of a struggle to fit as although they are the same length, the end caps are a different shape.The LEDs should reduce the current draw to between one third and one quarter of the originals.

Whether you like the bright white light of the LEDs or the yellowish light of the originals is a matter of personal preference.

Img_0357.jpg

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