Spongy brakes

[Bowline5]

Last week I set about fitting new front pads, I've done it many times on many cars and it usually take longer to jack the car up and take the wheels off than it does to fit new discs. Not this time. The came out easily enough but the calipers were so corroded, and the slide pins jammed solid, that new calipers and carriers were a necessity. Of course the final job was bleeding the new calipers out, made harder because my old Easibleeder would not fit on the master cylinder. It works now but is still a little bit spongy so will need more attention very soon; my car, an 2.5 turbo, has a two line system, is there a specific order in which I should bleed? I clamped the pipes when changing calipers and only lost a very small amount of fluid, then reverted to the traditional sequence of starting at the furthest point from the master and finishing at the closest, in this case left wheel first then the right. If the two lines are a diagonal system should I worry about the back wheels at all, if so in which order.

Just in case I've looked at the master cylinder, I cannot find its equivalent anywhere on the net. It has two pipes on the right hand side; every two pipe master I've seen, and there aren't many, have one on the right side and one at the end on the top surface. Surely I can't be the only one!

Any thoughts or advice welcome.

[Dr. Acula]

If new front calipers, new brake fluid and all corners air bleed(in my opinion). If front calipers so corroded rear calipers need a detailed service ...at least. 

New brake pads would change braking dynamics. New brake rotors would change braking dynamics. New pads and/or rotors does not mean better breaking (I've leaned it the hard/expensive way)

High quality parts would fix some of the problems. 

One more thing to try is going from a 1" master to 1 1/4". 

My two cents.

[Judd]

Yes bleed the whole system and i agree at the very least the rear brakes will need servicing properly including exercising the pistons in their bores to ensure free movement before attempting to rebleed.

You don't confirm that new discs accompany the new pads, unless the old discs have as new perfect surfaces there will be slightly less contact area with new pads until they've worn in to any existing wear pattern on the old discs, this 'bedding in' time can often feel like spongy brakes.

As for bleeding haven't been able to use my ancient Easibleed on any my Japanese cars for the same reason as you, but recruiting my fine lady wife for pedal pumping purposes bleeding the old way has worked well enough on all of our cars over the years.

[Dr. Acula]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3Dag-Q_lP0dOk&ved=2ahUKEwiamM-NyY-MAxXfQkEAHRtxJJEQ9KsOegQIDBAB&sqi=2&usg=AOvVaw2ozEBYvIBDU44l4_f-UR4n

Watch the above video. It really works.