blobthebuilder Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Ok everyone i took car to garage this morning to get brake caliper changed at front and rather than do that he gave me a list of problems with car... List is... All brake discs & pads need changed, Both front calipers, n/side front shocker, o/side rear shocker, n/side rear tyre, oil leak from sump, Complete exhaust, 2 front link bars.. Ok brakes, pads and front link bars i think i can manage easy enough, and the shockers i think he has told me 1 at front and 1 at rear knowing i'll have to change them all and exhaust i have at home and told him about. so my questions are how hard will exhaust be to do with just stands/ramps and can shockers be done easy enough because on my bmw 320 i did front control arms and bushes, droplinks, top mounts, bearings, front brake discs and pads, steering rack and steering coupler so i have some knowledge. Also the oil leak from sump were should i start looking and the starting problem im sure could be cable because if you muck about with cable after it wouldnt start it then starts fine, so any advice is thanked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 How reliable is this garage ! Has the car had a recent MOT as would expect some of this to of been an issue or advisory !? Can't see it needing a complete exhaust, perhaps cat back which basically centre & rear box ! Exhaust is not that hard to do & can be done on stands or ramps. Shocks/struts are easy & have a read of thread below for some basic pointers on a smooth install http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7216-2005-forester-xt-rear-sls-unit-leaking/ Are the struts noticeably leaking ? if are then going need whole set & that £300 for kyb & ideally want new springs shock boots & maybe tophats (fronts more so than rear) Drop links are super easy & sump oil leak needs reviewing (if you not topping oil up or just a little it not big issue, could be front crank seal then bigger issue ! Think you need give these reported faults a good inspection & perhaps even take some photos so we can see the current condition. Even doing this yourself will not be super cheap as calipers, discs, pads, drop links, struts will be a chunky parts bill ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blobthebuilder Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 It does need complete exhaust, all joints have been removed and pipe welded in and cracked in at least 3 pplaces and I have topped up oil like 400ml in a month also I've always fitted new top mounts when rebuilding suspension buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 So Y section damaged too ? strut top mounts are around £50 a corner: struts, springs, boots/bumps & tophats is around £600+ price figure Parts for all these mentioned jobs would be heading to £1,000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blobthebuilder Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 No y section if you mean manifold is fine buddy and I already have all rest of exhaust so just need suspension and closer look at oil leak but I'm sure I can manage suspension change as done BMW and rover 75 before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 What about brakes ! discs & pads are not that expensive & expect whole front & rear can be had for £130. front calipers recon are not super cheap, rebuilding is not that expensive if they decent enough ... Doubt you will have any issue doing struts as very easy, just mark base position of camber bolts so when reassemble your camber will be close & only need minor tweaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blobthebuilder Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 Recon calliper only £58, but its the camber bolt position im not sure what is ment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blobthebuilder Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 ok i think i understand now, the bottom bolts behind the wheel hub just try and get them in same position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 ok i think i understand now, the bottom bolts behind the wheel hub just try and get them in same position just scratch or punch a mark on them at 12oclock position or easy reference position, get a few in where they been overlooked & tyres get ruined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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