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mfnick last won the day on August 10 2019

mfnick had the most liked content!

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About mfnick

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/01/1985

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  • Interests
    Cars, beer, women, games.
    In that order.
  • Subaru Model
    Impreza Type R

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  1. Good to hear Savage, thanks. I know mate. It’s getting me pretty down to be honest. I’ll get on top of it someday though I’m sure.
  2. Thanks Savage, feel a bit better about it at £9k now then. I do tend to always undersell my cars lol.
  3. Unfortunately I’ve hit even more money problems meaning I really can’t afford to keep hold of this and get it all sorted :( proper gutted. I’ve put it up for sale in the forum and many other places. Knowing it needs a bit of TLC but bearing in mind the engine work and 6 speed DCCD, do you guys reckon £9000 is fair or still too much? I’ve advertised it elsewhere at £10000 knowing I’m going to have to drop the price but I know if I put it at £9000 on those places I’ll just get pricks offering £6-7000 for it. Should hopefully remove some time wasters elsewhere.
  4. £9000 For Sale is my 1998 Impreza Type R. Selling as I’m officially broke and bought this at the wrong time, can’t afford to keep/look after it. Needs a bit of TLC - rear arch lips need painting and front passenger wing has surface rust near the fixing hole. Hence the low price otherwise would be asking for £11.5k+ . Ive had these areas rust treated to prevent any further problems until they can be sorted. The body is straight, paintwork is excellent for the age. The underside is rust free, the usual spots - sills, towers, brake lines etc are all solid and rust free. Imported 3 years ago and been under sealed. Cat 1 alarm fitted with both fobs present. Mileage is 109000km, approx 68,000 miles. Mixture of kilometres and miles. Speedo was converted approximately 2000 miles ago. MOT valid until end of January. No advisories on last cert. 6 speed DCCD gearbox conversion from a Hawkeye with new clutch. Huge improvement over the 5 speed and costs well over £2000 to have fitted. Engine bottom end is a stronger one out of a Version 8, SCD and nitrile coated crank with ACL bearings. Version 4 heads, skimmed and pressure tested. Fitted in 2018 along with New cometic head gaskets and cam belt. ARP head studs and bolts. Cost £1800 before fitting. 3” Toyo turbo back exhaust, loud but not ridiculous like some. TD05 turbo New age coil pack conversion Mapped to approximately 340bhp by ADE tuning on a ESL Board. Road map so no dyno figures. Capable of more with just a new intercooler and injectors. Tein coilovers with camber adjusters installed. Inovit pro drive style alloys with almost new Avon zv7 tyres all round Version 6 front end Angel headlights which are a vast improvement over regular ones. Flocked Dash Nardi Drift wheel (momo wheel included) Bluetooth stereo.
  5. Yea hopefully it’ll help out people in future. I finally got the switch changed today at SSS, the engine light has gone and hasn’t returned!!! Woohoo!! To be honest not sure what to do now. I really need some cash (I bought it at the wrong time really, I’m struggling financially, stupid decision) so may need to sell it and with having these issues straight away I’m already a bit !Removed! off with it. If I can’t sell for a decent amount though I will just have to try and get on top of it and save up for the other bits.
  6. Finally!! Found out what it is, took it to Richard Henry’s, turns out my DCCD box is a Hawkeye one not a Blobeye. Which is good. What this also means though is the neutral position switch on the hawkeyes is such where it operates the complete opposite way round to how every previous box does. Meaning my ECU is seeing the neutral to open the IACV at wrong times, throwing a error code. Ordered a new 6 speed neutral switch for a 01-04 box and that will sort it. Only problem now is, getting to the ****** thing. Andy at RH says it’s right at the top and there’s no space to reach it without dropping he back if the box, especially in classics where space is even more limited, so quite a big labour job. Will have to get booked in either at SSS now Martin is back or book with Andy in near future. What I’ve learnt from this experience? Don’t bother trying to fix stuff myself!! Wasted a couple hundred £ on parts and loads of time taking apart and refixing bits of the engine. When all I needed was a £35 part and then it’s something I can’t do anyway. Bah!
  7. Still not fixed. Getting fed up now. Already fallen out of love with this car, would sell it if anybody would buy it with CEL... After about 20 mins and warmed up it happens again. Same code. Managed to get it to light more consistently now through. It happens mainly at around 30mph under engine breaking. Once it’s dropped below 20-25mph it goes back off. Speed up and hard brake and no issues/light at all. It just seems I be under engine break at about 30. Anyone any ideas what else it could be? Can I test the MAF somehow? I can’t find anywhere online which shows what voltage that should be at. I’ve tested it with ignition on engine off, I’m getting 0.17V, no idea if that’s right or even if I can test it. Anyone? 😞
  8. I’ve checked the intercooler and ICV pipework for splits, all ok. The screws to the TPS were actually fine and easy to undo, they had a extra washer compared to the ICV ones which must have helped! Plus it’s against plastic not metal. I found a few extra threads saying it should actually be 4.3v open. So I’ve messed with it and managed to get it 0.5v closed and 4.28 open! Well happy with that. As long as 4.3 is correct anyway. I’ve cleaned up the other ICV so going to fit it while I’ve got the intercooler off and access. Hopefully both those changes will sort it. Will check the grounds as well while I’m at it, cheers mate!
  9. Right, tested my valve, getting 9 ohms on both tests so all good. New 2nd hand one I got through tested at 9.1 and 9.8 ohms so don’t know whether to bother changing it. I’ve tested the TPS, closed I’m getting 0.49 volts - should be between .45-.55 so that’s spot on. Fully open I get 4.9. Read open it should be between 4.6-4.7v. So a slight discrepancy but would that really give me a CEL? Plus if I change it, won’t it mess up the closed value? I doubt I’ll get the bottom screw undone to alter it too as it’s rusty and they look like the same ones they used on the ICV which I had to use a mole grip to undo - not possible in the space where the TPS is. What do we think? Should I go though the effort of altering the TPS or is the something else I should test first?
  10. Ah so your resistance should be the same as mine then if you’re running the newer valve. I’ll test it tonight, thanks a lot for that, I couldn’t find any info online at all regarding the values I should be getting at the solenoid. I did find what voltage my TPS should be showing though so I’ll check that too as it gives the same error codes when not set correctly. Thanks mate!
  11. I’ve done a search on different manifolds, looked at ones for sale etc. and all the V4’s I’ve seen are like mine and missing that bolt hole. Still weird though. I’m fine with a multimeter (sparky by trade) but I do know the top on the v4 ICV is different and incompatible with the V1&2, yours has the green label mine is yellow, and the design is different. So I’m pretty sure the readings are different too :(. Need to see if I can find the volt check for a V4. Got the 2nd hand ICV through and mine looks in better condition now it’s all cleaned up, plus it moved freely so I’m thinking it’s not the valve itself. Might just change the magnet top first, see if that clears it.
  12. Looks nothing like that EDIT - Never mind, just checked and there’s a slight difference between the V3&4 and the V1&2 manifolds. Mine is meant to be like that, panic over. Seems strange to have a extra bolt hole though in the valve. Unless they just didn’t change the valve at all between the versions
  13. Also I Realised when putting it back together my manifold looks different to this. The holes line up but where I though I was missing a 4th bolt it doesn’t actually have a hole for it on mine?? Is that correct?
  14. Didn’t work :( Ordered a 2nd hand one. Hope that does!
  15. Think I’ve done best I can now. Gave it a surface dry. Going to leave it to fully dry in boiler cupboard overnight and tomorrow and refix in evening. Should be plenty dry enough by then. Good job I got some new screws for the magnet, they were soft as !Removed! and rounded off when removing the old ones too.