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mfnick last won the day on August 10

mfnick had the most liked content!

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About mfnick

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/01/1985

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    Cars, beer, women, games.
    In that order.
  • Subaru Model
    Impreza Type R

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  1. Finally!! Found out what it is, took it to Richard Henry’s, turns out my DCCD box is a Hawkeye one not a Blobeye. Which is good. What this also means though is the neutral position switch on the hawkeyes is such where it operates the complete opposite way round to how every previous box does. Meaning my ECU is seeing the neutral to open the IACV at wrong times, throwing a error code. Ordered a new 6 speed neutral switch for a 01-04 box and that will sort it. Only problem now is, getting to the ****** thing. Andy at RH says it’s right at the top and there’s no space to reach it without dropping he back if the box, especially in classics where space is even more limited, so quite a big labour job. Will have to get booked in either at SSS now Martin is back or book with Andy in near future. What I’ve learnt from this experience? Don’t bother trying to fix stuff myself!! Wasted a couple hundred £ on parts and loads of time taking apart and refixing bits of the engine. When all I needed was a £35 part and then it’s something I can’t do anyway. Bah!
  2. Still not fixed. Getting fed up now. Already fallen out of love with this car, would sell it if anybody would buy it with CEL... After about 20 mins and warmed up it happens again. Same code. Managed to get it to light more consistently now through. It happens mainly at around 30mph under engine breaking. Once it’s dropped below 20-25mph it goes back off. Speed up and hard brake and no issues/light at all. It just seems I be under engine break at about 30. Anyone any ideas what else it could be? Can I test the MAF somehow? I can’t find anywhere online which shows what voltage that should be at. I’ve tested it with ignition on engine off, I’m getting 0.17V, no idea if that’s right or even if I can test it. Anyone? 😞
  3. I’ve checked the intercooler and ICV pipework for splits, all ok. The screws to the TPS were actually fine and easy to undo, they had a extra washer compared to the ICV ones which must have helped! Plus it’s against plastic not metal. I found a few extra threads saying it should actually be 4.3v open. So I’ve messed with it and managed to get it 0.5v closed and 4.28 open! Well happy with that. As long as 4.3 is correct anyway. I’ve cleaned up the other ICV so going to fit it while I’ve got the intercooler off and access. Hopefully both those changes will sort it. Will check the grounds as well while I’m at it, cheers mate!
  4. Right, tested my valve, getting 9 ohms on both tests so all good. New 2nd hand one I got through tested at 9.1 and 9.8 ohms so don’t know whether to bother changing it. I’ve tested the TPS, closed I’m getting 0.49 volts - should be between .45-.55 so that’s spot on. Fully open I get 4.9. Read open it should be between 4.6-4.7v. So a slight discrepancy but would that really give me a CEL? Plus if I change it, won’t it mess up the closed value? I doubt I’ll get the bottom screw undone to alter it too as it’s rusty and they look like the same ones they used on the ICV which I had to use a mole grip to undo - not possible in the space where the TPS is. What do we think? Should I go though the effort of altering the TPS or is the something else I should test first?
  5. Ah so your resistance should be the same as mine then if you’re running the newer valve. I’ll test it tonight, thanks a lot for that, I couldn’t find any info online at all regarding the values I should be getting at the solenoid. I did find what voltage my TPS should be showing though so I’ll check that too as it gives the same error codes when not set correctly. Thanks mate!
  6. I’ve done a search on different manifolds, looked at ones for sale etc. and all the V4’s I’ve seen are like mine and missing that bolt hole. Still weird though. I’m fine with a multimeter (sparky by trade) but I do know the top on the v4 ICV is different and incompatible with the V1&2, yours has the green label mine is yellow, and the design is different. So I’m pretty sure the readings are different too :(. Need to see if I can find the volt check for a V4. Got the 2nd hand ICV through and mine looks in better condition now it’s all cleaned up, plus it moved freely so I’m thinking it’s not the valve itself. Might just change the magnet top first, see if that clears it.
  7. Looks nothing like that EDIT - Never mind, just checked and there’s a slight difference between the V3&4 and the V1&2 manifolds. Mine is meant to be like that, panic over. Seems strange to have a extra bolt hole though in the valve. Unless they just didn’t change the valve at all between the versions
  8. Also I Realised when putting it back together my manifold looks different to this. The holes line up but where I though I was missing a 4th bolt it doesn’t actually have a hole for it on mine?? Is that correct?
  9. Didn’t work :( Ordered a 2nd hand one. Hope that does!
  10. Think I’ve done best I can now. Gave it a surface dry. Going to leave it to fully dry in boiler cupboard overnight and tomorrow and refix in evening. Should be plenty dry enough by then. Good job I got some new screws for the magnet, they were soft as !Removed! and rounded off when removing the old ones too.
  11. Cheers mate! Well, I’ve got the valve off now cleaning it. Doesn’t look quite as bad as some I’ve seen inside which is worrying, surely the dirtier it is the more chance of this working? Probably been done before too as 1 of the 4 bolts holding the valve to the inlet was missing and another was the incorrect length. This may have meant the gasket wasn’t properly sealed though so fingers crossed this may still work. Got some new correct sized bolts already. Anyway nows the tedious part.
  12. Cheers mate, going to give it a go tomorrow.
  13. Cheers mate! Before I saw your post I’d already bought some Carb cleaner from what I’ve seen elsewhere. Will that work too or would you recommend brake cleaner over it? I’ve got a new gasket kit. Regarding O ring and diaphragm are these them? And you say these go in the inlet side?
  14. Am I right in thinking the circles part is idle control is it it attached to the throttle body?
  15. Made a start. Read the check engine code, it’s come up as number 24. Which is comething to do with idle control system, could be: ISC valve stick Open/Short in ISC valve circuit Any ideas anyone? I’ve read you can clean the idle control valve and replace the gasket which solves some issues but I’ll be honest I’m not sure what I’m looking at. Hope to god it just need cleaning anyway, £450 otherwise for a new one!! 😭 Its version 4 by the way. Ordered 2 new window trims for the screens. Treated the rear arches to prevent any rust and investigating body shops I can take it too. Got a list off a few Facebook people of ones to look at.