vpmk

Is there an enabling / disabling device on the 2015 WRX for the Daytime Running Lamps ? I got a stone in the n/s foglight and stuffed it with clingfilm while the replacement unit was on order. Of course the Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) are in the same unit - and the one-eyed o/s lamp still worked at that stage I think. I replaced the unit and the fog lights are fine - but the DSLs are dead under all ignition and light settings. Their fuse is healthy. Looking on American WRX YouTube videos** I see that there is a connector low down on USA WRXs near the fog/DRL unit (on their passenger side) which can simply slide into an alternative position to enable/disable the DSLs. I find nothing in my own engine bay near the lights on either side. It would however be an easy explanation as to why my DSLs no longer operate. Does anyone know anything? ** They clearly don't like running lights (and/or they like wiring in their fog lights instead) and no doubt some States' legislation hasn't caught up with Scandinavian "you've got your headlights on" innovations of 30 or more years ago.

Full marks for taking the experimental data. Less marks because, like all of us, you only have measurements for when things were going wrong and don't know what normal looks like. I will not question Mr B's expert and experienced contribution but add this account of my own, to reassure you or add to your doubts: January 2015 new WRX, with new battery. November 2015 went to Australia for a month [no, not in Suby]. Car turns over fine on return, but then left it a few more days before actually driving. Battery flat. Realised I really should have disabled the remote locking to reduce battery drain, as the manual advises, and who knows what the Tracker uses? Borrowed a charger for a day and all normal again. Monday 24 September 2018 car and battery now nearly 4 years old. "My car battery empty and clicking like a woodpecker. Disconnected it. Scorpion Tracker called several times." Remembering lessons from 2015 before going away for some weeks, I study the voltages and current draw (ammeter cautiously in series from the battery terminal) over a cycle of charging / driving, much as you have done. Tuesday 25 September 2018 "Car starts again but losing 1 amp of current in dormant state. Leave it charging all night." Wednesday 26 September 2018 "Car charged but minimal retention of charge/voltage. Worked through all the fuses in engine compartment and identified "back up" circuit as all but 6 milliamps of drain. Assume it is the Scorpion Tracker circuit (but also door locking). Call Tracker [to learn anything about the current consumption / charging profile of their installations - but Tracker, rather unspecifically, does not think their devices cause material drain] then Perkins to order a new battery. Despite long charging now the ~900 milliamp drain continues. - if it was recharging the Scorpion battery it would have filled or slowed by now. Also the reserve alarm does not sound on removing the battery lead now." Thursday 27 September 2018 "Collect battery at noon... swap it over. .. Check battery drain but still above viability for two weeks. Charge battery to the end of the day." Sunday 14 October 2018 - returned from abroad. Car which had been left with remote locking and Tracker live for 17 days started fine. No problems since, though have charged battery during various lockdowns. Conclusions: 1) When batteries start to go, get a new one straightaway. [Nothing we don't all now there.] 2) The days when battery drain was mostly from leaving the interior lights on are long gone. If your Subaru has a Tracker or remote door locking then see above. 3) You can measure an awful lot of current drain coming out of a newly charged weak battery - but it doesn't represent an equilibrium state. Even when I bought a new battery the dormant car drew nearly an amp from it - presumably charging the Tracker or other reserve battery for the first few hours? At 1 amp a fully charged new battery would be dead in 3 days. In reality it lasted at least 17 days (so average drain less than 150 milliamps, and I think actually below 60 milliamps from later measurements. 4) If none of the above, follow Mr B.