Ollymc

Hello! unfortunately not, I have also sold the car now so cant investigate further, car still passed mot with light flashing but never got around to dropping the oil out again to check the wiring, my only other idea was to ask subaru if they could reset the light but never got that far, maybe an auto-electrician is the way forward?

Hi mate, the AT oil temp light is not affecting the mot (at least in the uk) so nothing to worry about there, obviously with the light flashing then if your oil actually overheats you wont know, i just kept checking the level on mine and it was perfect, i didnt actually get chance to rule out a short circuit fully, so this could still be a problem, it might be that subaru can remove the flashing light, but i worried they would just want to change the whole valve body (which they do with sensor fault) i attached a screenshot of the actual sensor i ordered from ebay, had to get mine from USA, any more questions just leave a reply, let me know how you get on

Hi, i never managed to fix it before selling the vehicle recently, however I suspect it may be faulty wire grounding out, inside the gearbox, I didnt want to open it again after I repaired it, so just had the light flashing the whole time, which eventually your brain ignores and you barely notice it 🙂 I also believe there might be a fix with the subaru software, I did try on that, but didnt really know what I was doing, tried to reset the gearbox ecu, restart the learning process for the gearbox, but nothing worked, the car ran absolutely fine, but for some reason the temp light just refused to go out again , im sorry i am no help on this one, hope you find a fix good luck

Hi, i drove mine for a week with the car slamming into 2nd/3rd gear, i found it wasnt quite as bad if you go into semi auto, and use those gears as little as possible, but i imagine it wont take long to cause damage since the impact is so hard, but you can get yourself home for sure, no need to sit broken down somewhere, just replace the sensor, its not too bad once you get the valve body out. Did mine on the road outside which isnt ideal but its possible. Drain out the gearbox oil from the AT sump. Then there are around 20 bolts to remove, be fairly gentle with them, you need some gasket sealant, gearbox oil, the sensor with 3 cables attached, then you need to cut the wires from the original sensor, leave enough wire so its easy to connect up to the new one, they need to be soldered, then put shrink wrap around for electrical cables, you can buy the wire shrink wraps and you need a heat gun to shrink those on. The sensor itself is only held in by a bolt, just be very careful handling the valve body, you want to take that inside and lay it on a towel. The hard part is taking out the correct bolts. The correct bolts on the valve body have a number 8 i think on them. The ones to leave alone have an infinity symbol on them. as you take out the bolts lay them down on some cardboard in the pattern they came out. when putting the valve body back in, it is quite heavy from underneath, hold it up with your forearm while you put bolts back in. Make sure cables are tidy. the outer pan needs old mastic removed or smoothed right down. then put a bead of fresh mastic all the way around and bolt that back in.